Washington, A Guide to the Evergreen State/Part 2

Cities

Railroad Stations: Aberdeen—-Foot of K St. for Northern Pacific Ry., Union Pacific R. R., and Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific R. R. Hoquiam—Foot of 8th St. for Northern Pacific R. R., Union Pacific R. R., and Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific R. R.

Bus Stations: Aberdeen—m W. Wishkah St. for Grays Harbor Lines. Hoquiam—422 8th St. for Grays Harbor Lines.

Piers: Aberdeen-Hoquiam—Grays Harbor Port Development Project, foot of Myrtle St.

Taxis: 25c a mile; 50c to any point within city limits.

City Busses: To residential sections of both cities and to Cosmopolis; fare 10c.

Accommodations: Aberdeen—Six hotels; cabin camps. Hoquiam—Two hotels; cabin camps.

Information Service: Aberdeen—Chamber of Commerce, Morck Hotel, Heron and K Streets; AAA, 114 So. K St. Hoquiam—Chamber of Commerce, Emerson Hotel, Simpson Ave. and 7th St.

Motion Picture Houses: Aberdeen—Five. Hoquiam—Two.

Radio Station: Aberdeen—KXRO (1340 kc).

Golf: Highland course at Cosmopolis, SE. of Aberdeen on US 101; 18 holes; greens fee, 50c.

Tennis: Public courts at North Pioneer Park, E. Cushing St., South Aberdeen.

Swimming: On the harbor, W. on Grass Creek Road, swimming at half or full tide only. Aberdeen—Miller Natatorium, B St. near Stewart Field, 10c and 25c; Lake Aberdeen, 3 m. E. of city, off US 410; fee 10c.

Riding: Club near Cosmopolis.

Hunt1ng and Fishing: Deer and duck in season in near-by regions; salt water fishing; clam digging on ocean beaches.

Baseball: Hoquiam—Olympic Stadium, 28th and Cherry Sts.

Annual Events: Hoquiam—Farm-Merchant Dinner, Jan. or Feb.; Aberdeen-Hoquiam—Fourth of July Splash, with log rolling and Indian Water Carnival; High School Football Game, Thanksgiving Day.

ABERDEEN (365 alt., 18,846 pop.) and HOQUIAM (300 alt., 10,835 pop.), originally settlements four miles apart, have grown into a single population center, divided only by Myrtle Street. In an atmos- phere hazy with smoke from mill stacks and burners, these twin cities spread along Grays Harbor and the tidal waters of the three rivers flowing into it: Aberdeen lies at the confluence of the Chehalis and the Wishkah Rivers; Hoquiam borders the banks of the Hoquiam River. Both cities face Grays Harbor, whose entrance, 12 miles westward, is often blanketed by the fog or rainfall characteristic of the region. The industrial area of both cities stretches along the water front. Here are numerous sawmills, with their sheds, yards, and loading docks. Stacks of freshly cut lumber diffuse through the streets the pungent odor of fir,

cedar, and hemlock. Straddle-legged lumber carriers, motor driven, roll swiftly about the yards. Large cranes swing arms laden with lumber from the yard to the deck of a ship berthed against the wharf. From the mill comes the shrill whine of high-speed saws and the muffled thunder of a huge log as it is hurled about on a rushing saw-carriage by the iron kick of the mechanical "nigger." Over the acres of roofs covering mills and woodworking plants, jets of live steam escape in white plumes, and here and there a tall stack pencils a drifting pattern of smoke against the sky.

Together, Aberdeen and Hoquiam were born of lumber, and through it chiefly have they lived. Aberdeen, the larger of the cities, with com- pact blocks of substantial office buildings, stores, hotels, garages, and theaters along Wishkah Street, the main thoroughfare, has the appear- ance of a small metropolis. North of the business section, the terrain rises to the higher ground of the residential area until it reaches the heights of Bel-Aire, which, with its fine homes, is the social as well as the topographic apex of the city. Here a panoramic view of the city and Grays Harbor may be had, with Chehalis Point Lighthouse at the entrance, and a glimpse of the rolling Pacific to the west. On the border of the planked streets fringing the mills and factories, are "crackerbox" buildings whose shoddy rooming houses, pool halls, beer parlors, and shops cater to workingmen. In East and South Aber- deen, where most of the mill workers live, national origins are reflected in the Swedish cottages and in the octagonal-shaped Finnish houses with their many windows. Here, too, still stand a few old farmhouses, with soot-encrusted shingles and weather-beaten sides.

Hoquiam, reached through Aberdeen, is situated on deep water at the mouth of the Hoquiam River, 12 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Pioneer settlement of the Grays Harbor region, it is the elder of the two cities. In economy, industrial development, and general character, it is much like its sister city. West of the river the streets, starting at the water front, run diagonally through the business area until they join with the east-west avenues. To the north is a residential area, dominated by Hoquiam Heights. East of the river, streets run from the flats of the water front up to the heights of Campbell Hill. The two cities have separate municipal governments, but, since they act jointly in many administrative matters, and are so largely inter- dependent industrially and socially, it has become difficult to speak of one without mentioning the other. Together, they represent the culture and industry of the Grays Harbor district, a territory which, walled in by one of the heaviest stands of timber in the Pacific Northwest, by mountains and hills on three sides, and by the Pacific Ocean on its entire western length, was once almost unapproachable except by water. The earliest recorded visit of an American to this part of the coast occurred in 1792, when Captain Robert Gray sailed his ship, the Columbia, over the bar and into the harbor which today bears his name. No attempt was made to establish a permanent settlement, however, until 1859. In that year James Karr and his family arrived and settled

on the banks of one of the rivers flowing into the harbor. Shortly there- after he was joined by four brothers named Campbell. To the little settlement thus formed, and to the river on whose banks it stood, the name Hoquiam (Ind. hungry for wood), was given. Within the decade a number of other pioneers arrived, drawn by the promise of wealth in the virgin forests which stretched in an almost unbroken expanse from the Pacific Ocean to the Cascades. By 1869 a post office had become necessary, and in 1873 a school was opened. In the meantime, some four miles to the east, a young Irishman, Samuel Benn, had staked a claim in 1867, at the juncture of the Chehalis and the Wishkah Rivers. Here he built a cabin, in which he lived alone until he was joined in 1875 by Alexander Young and James W. Stewart. Three years later, George R. Hume, of Scotland, established a small fish cannery on Sam Benn's Point. The cannery was named the Aber- deen Packing Plant, for Aberdeen, Scotland, home of some of the stockholders. This new venture and the rich natural resources of the region soon attracted a number of settlers, and the community they formed was named Aberdeen. From the beginning, lumbering was the key to the growth and development of the Grays Harbor region. The greatest stand of Douglas fir ever found in the Pacific Northwest was located here. Famous tim- ber tracts, such as the "21-9" (meaning Township 21, N., Range 9 W.), lay adjacent to the harbor; this one prodigious tract, 6 miles square, was logged for over 30 years. The towering trees of the region grew so compactly that they were invariably felled in one direction only, and at times the fallen trees were so crowded together that it was dif- ficult to saw them into log lengths. Besides these splendid stands of fir, Sitka spruce and hemlock rose in great abundance, and some cedar was also to be found. As soon as the means were developed to transfer this timber to market, lumbering in the region could go ahead at top speed. A trading con- nection between Grays Harbor and the Columbia River settlements was established in 1879 when the schooner, Kate and Ann, began to offer service between the two points. This was followed in quick suc- cession by the beginning of logging operations on the lower Chehalis in 1881; the unloading of the first sawmill equipment on consignment to George H. Simpson in 1882; the construction of a mill and the platting of the townsite of Aberdeen in 1884; and of Hoquiam in 1885. By the middle of the eighties, business and industry in the Grays Harbor settlements were sufficiently active and the population large enough to invite the publication of a newspaper. The Grays Harbor News was started in Hoquiam in 1885, followed in 1886 by the Aber- deen Herald, and in 1889 by the Aberdeen Weekly Bulletin (later the IVorld) and the Washingtonian, another weekly, in Hoquiam. The completion of telegraph lines to the Harbor in 1890 gave the newspapers wire service. School facilities were provided, a hotel was built in

Hoquiam in 1884, and a church in 1885. In 1890 a planked road was laid between the towns, presaging their united development. Improvement in logging methods and in sawmill equipment speeded lumber production, making transportation an increasingly pressing problem. The Northern Pacific Railway had completed its line from Kalama to Puget Sound. Yet, despite their need for rail connections with broader markets, Hoquiam and Aberdeen failed to become the terminal of the Northern Pacific when Karr, founder of Hoquiam, proved unable to come to terms with the railroad for the sale of his holdings. The Northern Pacific then built Ocosta, a few miles away on the south side of the harbor, as its terminal. To meet this situation, the citizens of Aberdeen, in 1895, bought and laid down the rails linking their mills with the Northern Pacific, thus gaining supremacy not only over Ocosta, whose development ceased, but over Hoquiam as well. In 1898, Hoquiam, after long negotiations, secured an extension of the railroad. In 1899 the first hull was launched from an Aberdeen shipyard. In the early decades of the twentieth century, the national require- ments for building materials increased; and, the Eastern forests having been in a large measure depleted, a growing demand arose for Western timber. Operators, needing more man power, started an advertising campaign to bring additional workers to the region. In response, loggers and mill hands came in large numbers, many from the woods of Wis- consin and Minnesota, others, Scandinavians and Finns, directly from their homelands. They were a hardy crew, these men who bore the hardships of the lumbering industry, and they brought new life to Aberdeen and Hoquiam. The days of ox-team logging were over; and the introduction of the powerful donkey engine and the "high-lead," or spar tree, to which great logs were jerked with taut steel cables, had brought logging to a high level of efficiency. With vast profits to be made, work was speeded ahead with little heed to accident preven- tion, timber breakage, or destruction of young growth. Men who worked in the woods needed rare courage and toughness. Straining back against his safety belt, the "high rigger" walked casually up the side of a tall tree with an axe in his hand, stopped somewhere between 100 and 200 feet above the ground, braced himself at a sickening angle against the swaying trunk, and, with a flow of cheerful profanity, severed with deft strokes of his razor-edged axe the green plume that rose above him; the shock of the falling crest sent the trunk and the logger on it gyrating dizzily through the air. Men saw their companions mutilated or killed from time to time by snapping steel cables, falling timber, rolling logs, or whirling saws; and this unremitting danger was reflected in their speech and tales and in their Saturday night blowoffs in Hoquiam and Aberdeen. Usually, the men who worked in the forests remained wage earners, but sometimes one rose from the ranks of the loggers to become an operator. Alex Polson, who started as a member of a logging crew, emerged in time as one of the leading timber barons of the region. It

was his crew that logged off the "21-9" forest of the Olympic peninsula. Polson personified the history of Pacific Coast lumbering, in every phase of which he participated. Today (1941) his mantle has descended upon his son, who is preparing to cut Washington's last great stand of cedar and spruce, in the Ozette region of the Olympic Peninsula. For Grays Harbor, the early years of the century were busy and exciting, despite recurrent depressions of the lumber market. Sawmills and woodworking plants of various kinds were constructed; jerry-built houses were hastily erected to accommodate the flood of loggers. The shipyards, too, were active. In 1903 Aberdeen suffered a devastating fire. Reconstruction started immediately, and a fever of real estate speculation swept the town. In 1906 the harbor was dredged and im- proved, and an area of salt marshes drained and filled in to allow for the extension of the crowded business area. Following the 1907 depression, the lumber market slackened, and for about five years lumbering was seriously curtailed. Labor, dissatisfied with wages and working conditions, struck in 1912 for an 8-hour day and a daily wage of $2.50. The operators refused these demands, and a citizens' committee, who attacked the strikers as members of the I.W.W., armed itself with pick handles to defeat the strike. The em- ployees' hall was ordered closed as a nuisance by the civil authorities, but attorney Homer T. Bone, of Tacoma, now (1941) senior United States Senator from Washington, acting as counsel for the workers, secured its reopening. Finally, however, the loggers were forced to accept the old scale and hours and return to work. This strike proved to be but one of a series that disturbed the indus- trial routine of Grays Harbor. During the First World War, loggers and sawmill workers again went out on strike with substantially the same objectives, this time winning the support of the numerically strong shipyard workers of Grays Harbor. Federal intervention re- sulted in a settlement granting the workers a considerable measure of their demands. Declining prices, decreased demand for lumber and an influx of ex- servicemen and those released from war-geared industry brought fall- ing wages, lengthened hours, and general dissatisfaction. The problem was temporarily solved, however, by the building and industrial boom of the twenties. Plywood and pulp and paper plants were built; an accredited junior college was established; and radio station KXRO, the first on Grays Harbor, began its broadcasting career. The 1929 depression hit the Grays Harbor district hard. Mills closed or ran part time; wages fell, unemployment increased, and, as in the rest of the Nation, a general uneasiness prevailed. In 1933-4 a revival of labor organization, encouraged by favorable Federal legislation, led to improved working conditions and a recognition of the principle of collective bargaining. A strike of loggers and lumber mill operatives in 1935 was settled, after the calling out of five companies of the Na- tional Guard, to protect the operation of the mills, had been protested by a demonstration and a parade of several thousand citizens. With a


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I70 WASHINGTON strongly unified employer group and equally determined workingmen's organizations clinging fast to their aims, labor relations in Grays Har- bor have been periodically turbulent. Today, both the American Fed- eration of Labor and the Congress for Industrial Organization main- tain labor councils in the Grays Harbor cities. Lumber and wood products remain the key industry of Aberdeen and Hoquiam. The Grays Harbor district is now the largest plywood- producing area in the world. Hoquiam people send their friends a veneer postcard shaped like a human foot, which they call the "Board Foot"; Aberdeen enthusiasts identify themselves by means of the "Glad Hand," also made of local plywood. There are more than 30 wood- working plants of various types near the water front, and their output includes furniture, sounding boards for pianos, and numberless items of woodenware. The lumber industry finds itself today at the beginning of a new era, in which chemistry and scientific technological processes will permit a fuller exploitation of the economic possibilities of the wood cell. Illus- trating this development is the comparatively recent rise of wood pulp, rayon, and paper manufacture. In the new fields of production in which the lumber industry is now conducting research, timber of but 20 to 30 years growth may be used; and the industry looks forward to stabiliz- ing its operations on a year-round basis, and to becoming less dependent upon the alternate booms and slumps of the construction industries. In Grays Harbor, fishing, canning, and the production of sea foods are also growing in importance. About 200 fishing vessels go out into the Pacific and divide their catch—chiefly salmon, halibut, tuna, cod, and pilchard—between iced shipments to market and local fish can- neries. Two oyster canneries and an oyster-smoking plant are supplied by commercial oyster beds on the harbor tide flats. POINTS OF INTEREST (Hoquiam) 1. The PUBLIC LIBRARY (open 12-9 weekdays), corner of 7th and K Sts., is housed in a two-story, red-brick, tile-roofed building. Its collection of 23,373 volumes includes 50 volumes in the Swedish language. 2. OLYMPIC STADIUM AND RECREATIONAL FIELD, entrance 28th and Cherry Sts., opened Thanksgiving Day 1939, is the leading athletic field in Grays Harbor district. The city purchased the site in 1929, but no improvements were made until 1938, when con- struction began under the WPA, with the Hoquiam Park Board fur- nishing the materials. The grandstand has a seating capacity of 10,000, and the grounds are lighted for night games. There are fields for baseball, football, and softball, and two tennis courts. Plans call for the completion of an archery range, horseshoe courts, a bowling green, children's pl ay field, and picnic grounds. 3. The GRAYS HARBOR PULP & PAPER COMPANY PLANT

(open by arrangement with the Chamber of Commerce), Railroad Ave. and 22nd St., is an interesting example of industrial architecture, with a concrete stack and two water towers rising above the terraced, two-, four-, and six-story buildings. The plant has its own powerhouse, a chipping mill where the hemlock logs are chewed up before going to the "digesters," a pulp mill with rows of digesters of black painted steel and innumerable tubes, and an eight-story paper mill with metal-glass windows. An overhead two-story conveyor from the adjacent Polson Mill supplies hogged fuel and chips. The plant, the Grays Harbor Division of Rayonier, Inc., is equipped to produce fine bond paper; the bulk of its pulp is shipped to Japan for rayon manufacturing. 4. The POSEY MANUFACTURING PLANT (open by arrange- ment with the Chamber of Commerce), Railroad Ave. and Ontario St., converts Sitka spruce into such diverse products as piano sounding boards, dogsleds, bungs, and breakfast tables. Material for the wings of Colonel Lindberg's Spirit of St. Louis was furnished by this plant. 5. At the> POLSON LUMBER AND SHINGLE MILLS (open weekdays by appointment), E. of Hoquiam Waterway No. I, foot of Ontario St., cedar blocks, or "shingle bolts," are sawed into shingles, while speedy "shingle weavers" stack them in groups of 250 each in machines that bind them into bundles. (Aberdeen—Hoquiam) 6. PORT OF GRAYS HARBOR, foot of Myrtle St., midway be- tween the cities, is the center of a complicated system of railroad tracks, highways, and waterways. A pier 2,000 feet long, with a gray ware- house at its 400-foot outer end, extends diagonally from the shore. On the east and west sides are slips for freighters and for the storage of logs and pulp wood. Two five-ton hammer-head cranes and one steam locomotive operate along the pier. The cranes sling logs from trains aboard waiting boats. The swinging booms of the freighters transfer incoming cargo into cars. Of the 538,861 tons of cargo handled in 1938, 221,330 tons were of forest products, including 134,000,000 board feet of lumber. The Port Development Project is operated by the county and is administered by a board of three elected commissioners, who appoint a port manager. The Port of Grays Harbor also maintains No. 10 dock at West- port, at the entrance to the harbor. This is a 200-foot pier, used by the 250 or 300 fishermen and troilers of the vicinity. In 1938, 667 tons of tuna were loaded here: of the 1,721 tons taken in the State, approx- imately 1,000 passed through Grays Harbor. Also at Westport are moorage and other facilities for crab fishermen, who reported a catch of 13,630 dozen crabs in 1938. These are brought in by the boatload and stored in "live boxes" until orders from city food markets are received. (Aberdeen) 7. The HARBOR PLYWOOD PLANT (open by arrangement with the Chamber of Commerce), E. of the Port Terminal, is per-


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ABERDEEN AND HOQUIAM—POINTS OF INTEREST 1. Public Library (Hoquiam) 3. Grays Harbor Pulp and Paper 2. Olympic Stadium and Recre- Company Plant ational Field 4. Posey Manufacturing Plant

points of interist -ar 1-1 - - facific --- st i i -- Ave.

-- -- - oo-o- -o. -v- 5. Polson Lbr. and Shingle Mill 9. Public Library (Aberdeen) 6. Port of Grays Harbor IO. Samuel Benn Home 7. Harbor Plywood Plant II. Samuel Benn Park 8. Strand Fisheries Incorporated

vaded by the odor of steaming hemlock; a tall water tower stands on latticed legs above the widely windowed mill. Here, sections of big logs are softened by immersion in boiling water, and peeled, or "un- wound," by giant lathes into long sheets of veneer. The veneer, cut to size and kiln-dried, is glued together to form plywood, which is noted for its rigidity and strength, gained from the crossed grains of the alternating sheets of veneer. 8. STRAND FISHERIES INCORPORATED, 400 East Front St., the first pilchard (sardine) packing plant in the State, was opened in 1936. This is the largest of the seven local plants, including several floating canneries, engaged in preparing sardines for market. The pil- chard season lasts only two or three months of each year. 9. The PUBLIC LIBRARY (open 10-9 weekdays; 3-9Sun.), Market St. between Broadway and I St., a one-story, red-brick building, has 22,451 volumes, a collection of Northwest Americana numbering 150 volumes, and 64 works in the Finnish language. A section is devoted to books on the pulp and paper industry. 10. The SAMUEL BENN HOME (private), 4th St., between G and F Sts., a two-story clapboard-sided building, painted in battleship gray, was built in 1887 by the pioneer, Samuel Benn. It displays the filigree and scroll-work characteristic of the period. 11. SAMUEL BENN PARK, N. I St., between 8th St. and 1st Ave., occupies a four-acre slope north of the city center. It is cut by deep gullies, through which tumble small streams spanned by rustic bridges. The park, which has tennis courts, a wading pool, and picnic furniture, is noted for its shrubs and trees. The site, a section of the original Benn estate, was purchased for park purposes by the city in 1929. On a promontory north of the park is Bel-Aire, residential community. POINTS OF INTEREST IN ENVIRONS State Fish Hatchery, Humptulips, 17 St.; Ocean Beaches and Crab Hunting, Copalis, 23 m.; Taholah, Quinault Indian Reservation, 32 m.J Lake Quinault 41 m. (see Tour of). Lake Aberdeen, 3 m.; Cosmopolis, Indian Treaty Ground, 8 m.; Deep Sea Fishing, Westport, 19 m.; Cranberry Bogs, 20 m.; Tokeland, 39.5 m. (see Tour or).

Railroad Stations: Foot of E St. for Great Northern Ry.; Magnolia St. and Railroad Ave. for Northern Pacific Ry.; 11oo Railroad Ave. for Chicago, Mil- waukee, St. Paul & Pacific R.R. Bus Stations: 1329 State St. for North Coast Lines; 2119 Otter St. for Bay Shore and Lummi Island Stage Co. (Orcas and Lummi Island service). Airport: Graham Field, 1.5 m. NW. via Eldridge Ave. and Patton St.; charter only. Piers: Quackenbush Dock on Central Ave., foot of Chestnut St.; two small boats daily for island points. Taxis: 48c one mile or less, 25c each additional mile. City Busses: Fare 7c, or five tokens for 25c; free transfers. Accommodations: Nine hotels; tourist cabins and trailer facilities. Information Service: Bellingham Chamber of Commerce, Herald Bldg., State and Chestnut Sts.; Automobile Club of Washington (AAA), Hotel Henry, Holly and State Sts.; Headquarters, Mount Baker National Forest, Post Office Bldg. Theaters and Motion Picture Houses: Mount Baker Theater, 106 N. Commercial St., American Theater, 308 Cornwall Ave., Grand Theater, 135 W. Holly St.; occasional road shows. Five motion picture houses. Radio Stations: KVOS (1230 kc). Athletics: Battersby Field, F and Girard Sts.; Downer's Field, Lakeway Drive and Moor St.; Waldo Field, Western Washington College of Education. Golf: Lakeway Golf Course, near James St., 9 holes, 35c weekdays, 50c Sun.; Riverside Golf Course, 8 m. N. on Pacific Highway, 9 holes, 35c weekdays, 50c Sat. and Sun. Tennis: Fairhaven Park and Rose Gardens, on US 99-Alt. between Ulia and Connelly Aves.; Cornwall Park on Cornwall Ave.; Whatcom Falls Park on Lakeway Drive; Elizabeth Park, Broadway and Elizabeth St. S<wimm1ng: Perfection Beach on Chuckanut Bay and Chuckanut Drive; Whatcom Falls Park; Lake Samish, 5 m. SE. on State 1. Bowling: Broadway Park, Cornwall Ave. and Park Drive. Riding: Silver Beach, Lakeway Drive. Winter Sports: Mount Baker National Forest, 36 m. (see Tour &f). Hunting and Fishing: Hunting in foothills; fishing in Puget Sound and lakes and streams. Annual Events: Baseball season opens, Apr.; State Gladioli Show, Aug.; Salmon Derby Finals, mid-Aug.; Whatcom County Dahlia Growers' Flower Show, Sept.; Harvest Festival, sponsored by Whatcom County farmers and merchants, first week in Oct. BELLINGHAM (sea level to 640 alt., 29,314 pop.), port of call 18 miles south of the Canadian Border, industrial and educational center, and distribution point for northwestern Washington, borders the broad curve of Bellingham Bay, sweeps back over the level valleys of Whatcom, Squalicum, and Padden creeks, and climbs the slopes

of Sehome Hill, which rises practically in the middle of the city. In- dustrial life is concentrated along the water front, where squarely massed warehouses, coal bunkers, and piers are punctuated with the black smokestacks of mills and factories, harsh against the green hills. Moored at the docks are large, ocean-going freighters, sturdy cannery tenders, numerous small fishing boats, and trim pleasure craft. From the bayside, streets radiate into the business and residential areas, which mingle in a casual manner as a result of the merging of four separate boom towns in the formation of Bellingham. To the west are the San Juan Islands and the interlaced ribbons of sounds and straits; more distant are the white-tipped Olympics, remote and austere, and the dark bulk of Vancouver Island, visible only on clear days. Stretching eastward from the city for 40 miles are broad fertile valleys, once unbroken evergreen forest but now largely logged off and converted into dairy farms, truck gardens, pastures, berry fields, and poultry ranches. Higher areas between the lowlands are covered with second-growth timber, interspersed with charred or bleaching stumps and fallen logs. Gradually the foothills become more rugged as they ascend toward the serrated line of the Cascades, from which rise the snow-capped peaks of Mount Baker and the Three Sisters. From this extensive area of land and water, Bellingham has drawn sustenance: salmon for canneries, cedar and fir and hemlock logs to supply the lumber mills, and coal to feed furnaces and fill the holds of freighters. The pace of exploitation of these natural resources has been rapid; a brief half-century has seen them in a large measure depleted, so that today the prosperity of the city is becoming increasingly de- pendent upon the agrarian pursuits of the back country and upon the canning and processing of farm produce. The mild climate of the region is favorable to the development of agriculture. Autumn months are temperate, with alternate rain and fog and bright, sunshiny days. In winter, freezing weather is not un- known; but, according to the records of the United States Weather Bureau, not once in 75 years has the temperature fallen to zero. Occa- sionally a cold, raw gale howls down from the mountains, and the city awakens in the morning heavily blanketed with snow. Now and then a sudden shift of the wind to the north converts the melting snow to a silver sheath of ice. Blustery winds sometimes sweep moisture-laden clouds up the Strait and dash them against the mainland. Then streams swirl in fury at their banks, lowlands are flooded, and the un- supported earth of steep hillsides, undermined by water, begins to slide on the clay hardpan. Spring comes early. By March, meadows and pasture lands have lost the sallow tinge of winter, and soon the grass becomes lush and green. Throughout the mild summer, when temperatures seldom reach 900 Fahrenheit, and late into the fall, dairymen find ample pasturage for their herds, no inconsiderable factor in the growth of the dairying industry.

The earliest exploration of this part of the northwest coast was by Francisco Eliza, who in 1791 sent a small ship into the bay and, according to Spanish charts, named it Seno de Gaston. In 1792, Cap- tain George Vancouver, who was exploring the Straits of Georgia, sent a small party under Joseph Whidbey to chart the southern shore- line. Upon receiving the report of the surveying party, Vancouver named the large protected body of water Bellingham Bay, in honor of Sir William Bellingham. More than 50 years passed before white men again turned their atten- tion to this immediate area, for during the first half of the nineteenth century the United States and Great Britain centered the struggle for possession along the Columbia River, and largely in the diplomatic field. The settlement of the boundary question in 1846, fixing the line at 490 North latitude, served to release colonizing energies. On December 15, 1852, Captain Henry Roeder, son of a German immigrant and formerly a captain on a Great Lakes schooner, and Russell V. Peabody left California and made their way northward, planning to start a salmon cannery or a sawmill. Finding that Henry Yesler's mill adequately sup- plied the little settlement on the Duwamish, Roeder and Peabody con- tinued to Port Townsend, where they embarked in an Indian canoe for Bellingham Bay. Circumstances were propitious; the market was booming, the San Francisco fire having skyrocketed lumber prices to $1,000 a thousand board feet. All that was needed was a mill. Roeder and Peabody looked upon the virgin wilderness and pronounced it good—at least for lumber- men. Sweeping back from the sheer bluffs at tide line was an unbroken forest, with scarcely a foot of open ground. Along the creek were giant cedars, while on higher ground were Douglas fir and hemlock. Here, below the falls of Whatcom Creek, (creek with the rumbling noise, as the Indians called it), they built a crude, temporary shelter. At once they established friendly relations with the Indians and obtained per- mission from Cha-wit-zit, chief of the Lummi, to appropriate a place near the falls as a site for the mill. At once they started to build, laboriously hewing the logs and cedar shakes with their far from adequate tools. Not being able to get suffi- cient help or supplies from Budd Inlet or Victoria, Roeder sailed for San Francisco early in 1853, returning in a few months with a small party including Captain Edward Eldridge, his wife and baby daughter, William Brown, Henry Hewitt, and William Utter, a millwright. He also brought back necessary supplies and equipment, although the high prices and his small finances severely limited the quantity he could buy. By the summer of 1853, the little mill on Whatcom Creek was whining and snorting away, while the friendly Nooksack and Lummi watched with mingled awe and pleasure. This was the first industrial development on Bellingham Bay; and although the dreams of quickly accumulating profits faded when the bottom dropped out of the lumber market and the price fell to $20 a

thousand, this little water-power mill pointed the way to what was to be one of the area's major industries. In the meantime, while Roeder was in California, the second industry in the region had been started by William R. Pattle, who discovered outcroppings of coal on his donation claim. Roeder and his associates were not at once distracted from the sawmill; later in the same year, however, when Hewitt and Brown stumbled upon a richer vein at the base of an uprooted cedar tree, the vision of a new industry glowed so brightly that Brown was sent to San Francisco with power to dispose of the claims in order to finance development of the mine. San Francisco was ripe for any kind of promotion, and Brown succeeded in selling the claim for $17,000, but, unable to resist the pull of Colorado and the new mining developments there, he went to Denver and, with the nest egg from the sale of the claim, started a career which included the building of the famous Brown's Palace Hotel. During the next few years, the little settlement met a succession of reverses and disappointments with a faith and dogged perseverance that would not give way. The sawmill proving to be unprofitable, Cap- tain Roeder in 1854 built a small schooner, the H. C. Page, named for one of the settlers, and with this small boat established regular com- munication with the outside world. The mine began to operate on a small scale, and some coal was shipped to Puget Sound points and to San Francisco. Also in 1854 Whatcom County was organized, and Whatcom, as the settlement was called, was made the county seat. With- in two years, regular governmental procedures had been instituted, and the little town of 30 persons had come to look upon itself as permanently established. Indian unrest, widespread throughout the Territory in 1855-6, alarmed the settlers in the Whatcom area, especially so because of the feud between the Indians of the north (British Columbia and Alaska) and the Bellingham Bay Indians. The settlers built a small blockhouse and manned it as well as they could, but this slight protection did not allay their fears, and they sent an urgent appeal for aid to the Federal Government. In response to their request, re-enforcements were sent under the command of Captain George E. Pickett, who eight years later was to lead the famous Confederate charge at Gettysburg. Fort Bell- ingham was built, Whatcom Creek was bridged, and a road was cleared between the fort and the village. Life in Whatcom soon resumed its monotonous if none too easy pace. In addition to the infrequent trips of Roeder's little steamer, connection with the outside world was main- tained by a mail service furnished at irregular intervals by "Blanket Bill" Jarman, in a canoe paddled by nine Indians. (Jarman had received his nickname after being ransomed for 52 blankets by Governor Douglas of Vancouver Island). In 1857 the magic cry "Gold!" drifted down from the Fraser River, gathering volume as it traveled; by April 20, 1858, the San Francisco Examiner could report a rush comparable to that of forty-nine. Early in the summer, fewer than 100 men were going about their tasks along Bell-

ingham Bay. A few log cabins fringed the shore, and the only sounds of industry were the drone of the little sawmill and the echoes of pick and shovel at the Sehome mine. Then a small boat, its deck black with passengers, moved slowly into the bay. The rush was on, and within a few days a tent city had sprung up and blazed with the lights of camp- fires. The editor of the first newspaper, the Northern Light, reported that the boat on which he arrived carried a load of 1,000 to 1,300 pas- sengers. For a few short weeks there was feverish activity: buildings were hastily erected, a new wharf was built, pilings were driven. It is reported that some lots sold for $500. More persons thronged into Whatcom to make their way to Canada by trail, boat, or canoe than were to be found in all the rest of the Territory. Then, an order came that all those going to the gold fields must get licenses at Victoria. This order, coupled with the failure to find rich strikes, led to an almost instantaneous collapse of the boom, and by the end of the year 1858 population had dropped from some 15,000 to a few hundred. Among the goldseekers who settled on Bellingham Bay was John Bennett, who came in 1858, bringing with him a chest filled with roots and bulbs and seed of flowers and grasses that he had gathered in his wanderings. He worked in the mine at Sehome, until in 1860 he had saved sufficient money to buy a piece of land where he could cultivate his many choice varieties of fruit. In the course of years, his claim became the show place of the county. Credited to his endeavors are the Bennett pear, Bennett's Champion plum, and several varieties of apples and flowers. The dreams of fortune faded with the decline of real-estate values and the exodus of miners and adventurers, but some optimism survived. The Sehome mine, which had imported experienced English miners from Nanaimo, continued to ship some coal, and the little sawmill still whined and sputtered beside the creek. A telegraph line was strung, and boats continued to call occasionally. Hope rose with land values again in 1870, when the Northern Pacific bought land for a proposed water-front terminal. The town of Sehome was platted and filed in 1871, and mining operations were accelerated again. Then came 1873 and the Nation-wide panic. Jay Cooke's empire tottered and fell, and the force of its crash put an end to the short-lived boom along Bellingham Bay. Then the mill burned, and a few more settlers drifted away in search of work. The final blow was the closing and dismantling of the Sehome mine in 1878 as a result of slow markets, diminishing deposits, water seepage into the tunnels, and financial diffi- culties. Gloom settled over the two little towns; the few remaining set- tlers—some 20 in all—doggedly stuck to their land and waited for a change of fortune. This change began with the arrival in 1880 of 600 Kansans. Meeting what they felt to be an inhospitable reception from the local land-owners, the newcomers founded New Whatcom, across the creek from the older town. Three years later Dan Harris, who had succeeded to the claim of John Thomas, recorded "Fair Haven on Harris Bay." Four small towns


 * 1) p. 180 (#226) ############################################

l8o WASHINGTON now fringed the bay: Whatcom, New Whatcom, Sehome, and Fairhaven. The Bellingham Bay settlements, having tried two industries, now ventured upon a third—the canning of fish. For years salmon and herring had been shipped, slightly cured, in barrels and boxes to San Francisco and even to the east coast. It was not until 1881, however, that a cannery was built and put into operation. For a few years the plant struggled along, but the evidence of failure was so obvious that the plant was closed; the fish-canning industry had to wait for development in tech- nology and science. The nineties marked the beginning of growth and prosperity for the Bellingham Bay area. A number of salmon canneries began successful operation. As transportation facilities were improved and the demand for lumber increased, new sawmills and shingle mills were built, and the dense forests that had separated the four small towns disappeared. What- com and New Whatcom consolidated. Tulip cultivation spread to the mainland from Orcas Island, dairy cattle were introduced, and general agriculture began to develop. In September 1899, the normal school awarded to the Bellingham Bay area was opened with 6 instructors and an enrollment of some 200 students. In 1900, Fairhaven merged with New Whatcom, and, in 1903, the addition of Sehome brought the population of the united city of New Whatcom to 13,236. At the first city election the name was changed to Bellingham. Expansion continued throughout the early years of the twentieth century. New railroad connections were secured, sawmills and shingle mills increased in number and size and improved their technique; can- neries sent hundreds of thousands of cases of salmon by steamship and rail to eastern United States and Europe. Docks and piers were con- structed, coal mines were extended, streets were paved, and scores of small industries were established. An experimental bulb farm was estab- lished in the vicinity in 1907, and diversified farming, dairying, and poultry raising became increasingly important as logged-off land was cleared, at a cost of hundreds of dollars an acre, and put into cultivation. Cultural interests began to assume greater importance, new churches and schools were built, and the normal school rapidly increased its en- rollment. The 1910 census gave to Bellingham over 24,000 population, an increase of almost 100 per cent. Succeeding years were marked by less spectacular changes. Sawmills and shingle mills continued to hum as the lumberjacks cut their way deeper into the forests to get the necessary supply of logs. Canneries increased their output, but whispers were already being heard of the day when steadily decreasing runs would force the curtailment of the in- dustry. The Port of Bellingham Commission (which directs the affairs of the port district, co-extensive with Whatcom County) was organized in 1911. Shipments of canned salmon and other fish were for a long time an important part of port traffic, but lumber was (and remains) the leading commodity.

The city continued to grow slowly, its growth being reflected in new homes and business buildings, paved streets, new docks and piers, and better schools. The Normal also was becoming increasingly popular as an education center, partly because of the mild, salubrious climate and delightful natural setting. Adjacent rural areas were also being de- veloped. Stumps were uprooted and burned, and land drained, fertilized, and planted. Bulb culture expanded, truck farming was beginning to be profitable, and the herds of dairy cattle increased in size and number. With the World War, the clamor for lumber and for canned salmon to feed the men in the trenches brought increased production in mills and canneries and speeded up the shipping industry. The brief post-war depression was followed by a decade of expansion in building and con- siderable speculation. Mining and prospecting for mines in the Deming and Mount Baker regions were resumed, and thousands of acres were put under farm cultivation. Dairying was by this time a well-established source of income, and poultry raising for the market and for egg pro- duction had proved itself. Concurrently the fears about the diminishing salmon runs became an actuality, and canneries began to limit production or to close altogether. Lumber mills, too, were being affected more and more by both the depletion of their sources of supply and the slackening of the market as the decade of the twenties moved to its close. Under the fever of speculation and unrestrained optimism, which in Bellingham as elsewhere marked the Coolidge era, was a slackening of industrial pace. Then came the crash. The burners of mills were cold and black, can- neries closed, fishing boats were tied up at the docks, mining operations were curtailed; men began to walk the streets in search of work. The history of the thirties in Bellingham is different from that of the Nation only in details. To assist local enterprise, several Federal agencies pro- vided work on various projects: improvements in docks and warehouses; the construction of a new sea wall and of a fishing harbor for small boats; the modernizing of school and other public buildings; the building of an airport; and the repair of streets and sewers. Today local industry has recovered to some degree. The huge mills of the Bloedel-Donovan and the Puget Sound Pulp and Paper Company are in operation; seining boats are again busy; a cement plant is at work; and business as a whole has improved. More and more the effect upon the economy of the city of agricultural expansion in the surrounding country is being recognized; this is evident in the strength of such organizations as the Grange, the Whatcom County Agricultural Association, the Dairymen's Association, and the Washington Co-operative Egg and Poultrymen's Association, and in the increasing importance of creameries, cheese factories, and pow- dered and malted milk plants. Culturally, the city has learned to depend largely upon itself. Churches are numerous and well attended and fraternal organizations are varied. The city supports a little theater and several music and art clubs. The Western Washington College of Education, formerly the Bellingham Normal School, offers lectures, concerts, and amateur theatricals. Recrea- tional opportunities are almost limitless: fresh and salt-water fishing,


 * 1) p. 182 (#228) ############################################

+ t J · ……………-- BELLINGHAM, WASH. points of interatst map -1941-

hiking along mountain trails, skiing and climbing, sailing and yachting. Bellingham looks toward the past to plan its future. Coal mining can become important again if new veins are uncovered; lumber manufac- turing will thrive with conservation and selective logging; fishing and canning will very likely regain their importance; and shipping will be commensurate with the healthy growth of other industries. Boom times are ended, but with planning and foresight a steady, solid expansion is within reach. POINTS OF INTEREST 1. The OLD WHATCOM COUNTY COURTHOUSE (open bf appointment), corner W. Holly and E Sts., was built in 1858 of bricks shipped from Philadelphia. It was purchased by the county in 1885 for use as a courthouse. In turn thereafter it was a jail and a newspaper plant, and now is used by the Junior Order of United Me- chanics for lodge rooms. 2. The CAPTAIN GEORGE PICKETT HOUSE (open 2-4, last Thurs. each month), 910 Bancroft St., was built between 1856 and 1860. It is maintained by the Washington State Historical Society and contains many relics of historic interest. 3. The PICKETT MEMORIAL BRIDGE, Dupont St. at Prospect Ave., a concrete structure across Whatcom Creek, bears at the north end a tablet commemorating Captain George E. Pickett, who in 1856 built the town's first bridge. 4. CITY HALL, Lottie St. between Grand Ave. and Commercial Sts., formally dedicated on January 5, 1940, is a long, low, two-story building of white sandstone. Two broad wings extend from a slightly higher center section. Across the front of the building the recessed entrance and a series of tall, closely placed windows give a columnar effect. The base course is of Minnesota granite, and the marble used in the lobby and first-floor corridors is Montana travertine. Wood panels of the main staircase and council chambers are of quarter-sawed white oak and gumwood. 5. The WASHINGTON CO-OPERATIVE CHICK ASSOCIA- TION PLANT (open 7:30-4:30 workdays: 7:30-1:00 Sat.), 1220 Central Ave., organized in 1924 to promote the co-operative hatching and marketing of baby chicks, has a membership of approximately 1,500 and operates 9 branch stations. Experiments made here in 1935 in the BELLINGHAM—POINTS OF INTEREST 1. Old Whatcom County Court- house 2. Captain George Pickett House 3. Pickett Memorial Bridge 4. City Hall 5. Washington Co-operative Chick Association Plant 6. Public Library 7. Whatcom Falls Park 8. Ella Higginson Home 9. Western Washington College of Education 10. Sehome Hill Park 11. Fairhaven Park

Japanese method of determining sex in chickens proved so successful that many other commercial hatcheries have adopted it. The output for the Bellingham plant during 1936 was 1,600,000 baby chicks, thousands of which were shipped in cardboard boxes to all parts of the country. 6. The BELLINGHAM PUBLIC LIBRARY (open 11-9 week- days), on a huge rock at the corner of Champion and Commercial Sts., is a vine-clad, concrete building constructed in 1906 with Carnegie aid. The library has 45,000 volumes. One of the most interesting collections is the Northwest Americana section, numbering 350 books and including a file of the Bellingham Bay Mail for the years 1875 and 1878. 7. The WHATCOM FALLS PARK, on Lakeway Drive, is a 41- acre forested area, through which Whatcom Creek flows in a series of falls and cascades. At the falls, known to the Indians as Whuks-qua- koos-tsa-qua (creek with the rumbling noise), Captain Henry Roeder filed his original homestead claim and built a small lumber mill. Wild flowers, bridle paths, and trails make this natural park a most attractive recreational spot. The Whatcom Falls Park State Trout Hatch- ery (open 8-5 daily), a 5-acre tract donated to the State by the city, has 48 trout hatcheries and 10 rearing ponds. Millions of rainbow, silver, cutthroat, and Eastern brook trout are hatched and reared here annually as a part of the program of restocking the Washington streams. 8. The ELLA HIGGINSON HOME (private), 605 High St, was the residence of the Washington novelist, short story writer, historian, and poet, who died in 1940. Some of Ella Higginson's lyrics have been set to music by noted composers and have been sung by famous singers, including Calve, McCormack, and Caruso. The quaint, ivy-covered house, erected in 1892, is the center of terraced gardens. The living room, called the Rose Heart Room, has woodwork cut from the heart of a native tree of British Guiana, the Copaifera publiflora. Rose-colored lights in a cut glass chandelier serve to bring out the natural glow of the wood. A small reception room has a frieze of nearly 300 rosaries. Multi- colored Government soil maps are arranged in a mosaic on the walls of the library. Other interesting items are pieces of antique furniture, in- cluding a Dutch marquetry desk with inlaid floral design, and a collec- tion of Alaskan Indian baskets. 9. The WESTERN WASHINGTON COLLEGE OF EDUCA- TION (open 9-9130 school days), High St.between Huntoon Drive and Sehome Hill, overlooks the city and the bay. The buildings, in the Romanesque style of architecture, are surrounded by extensive lawns, landscaped with native shrubs and flowers. The college offers the full four years of college work. The L1brary (open 8-8:30 school days, 2-4 Sat.) contains John M. Edson's collection of shore birds gathered in the region over a 40-year period, a complete herbarium of 2,000 specimens, and an exhibit of cultural objects from the various Indian tribes. 10. SEHOME HILL PARK, Adams St. between 25th and 29th Sts., includes 69 acres of hillside terrain, but the center of interest is the flat summit of the hill, possibly an acre in extent. Reached by a winding

. tiires are a few newer, more modern 'he bayside to the north are attractive close-clipped lawns, brightened in sea- blossoming shrubs, roses in profusion, .len autumn leaves; even the sombreness of laurel leaves and the orange and red ween these residential districts and the - scattered sections where the mass of \ centers in the area along the bayside . the city, are factories and mills with ,• or curtailed production brings a tem- - with the whine of saws, the strident •n, and the clank of wheels as engines • fighters, their strong booms swinging ! outgoing cargo, mostly lumber and .id into the holds. Quickly the gangs of '.i. slings, expertly using their claw-like of snapping cables and shifting cargo, which vibrate on supporting pilings, i :isure craft, trawlers, sturdy tugs with 's, in which fishermen drift for hours ird, with the peculiar skill and ease tice. - are usually brisk and occasionally
 * volcanoes by day and glowing infernos
 * ray waters of the bay into whitecaps.

..er the area, and then foghorns moan salt air is charged with the pungent -naked tidelands, the resinous tang of im the burning slabs and sawdust, the .osoted pilings, and the musty smell of s. At night the low, musical throb of hugging of gasoline motors float across '1, clear and resonant, echoes through • of Everett. When mills and factories customers crowd the local stores, bills shingled, and old cars are exchanged • is weakened by curtailed production 'only does local business diminish, but iich finds a market for its produce in a record of discovery of the bay along of Everett was Captain George Van- Is at Possession Sound on June 4, 1792; changing the name of the entire region

Railroad Stations: Bond St. between Hewitt Ave. and Wall St. for Great Northern Ry.; 3201 McDougall Ave. for Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific R.R.; corner Pacific Ave. and Chestnut St. for Northern Pacific Ry. Bus Station: Corner Colby and Pacific Aves., for North Coast Lines, Pacific Stages, Independent Stages, Inc., and Mukilteo and Whidbey Island Stages. Taxis: 35c one mile or less, one person; 50c one mile or less, two to four persons; 15c for each additional half-mile. Special rates for parties. Ferry: Everett-Whidbey Island ferry from Mukilteo, 5 m. SW. City Busses: Fare 10c; four tokens for 25c. Accommodations: Four hotels; cabin camps. Information Service: Chamber of Commerce and Automobile Club of Washington (AAA), Monte Cristo Hotel, corner Wall St. and Hoyt Ave. Motion Picture Houses: Four; occasional road shows and concerts. Radio Station: KRKO (14.00 kc). Athletics: Forest Park, Federal St. between 40th and 45th Sts.; Legion Memorial Park, 8th St. between US 99 and Rockefeller Ave.; Lincoln Playfield, 25th St. and Rockefeller Ave. Golf: Everett Golf and Country Club, 2 m. SW. on US 99, 18 holes, greens fee $1; Cedar Crest Golf Club, N. on US 99 to Marysville, R. on Arlington road, 18 holes, greens fee 50c; Legion Memorial Park, 8th St. between US 99 and Rockefeller Ave., 18 holes, greens fee 50c. Tennis: Lincoln Playfield, 25th St. and Rockefeller Ave.; Clark Park, 24th St. and Oakes Ave.; Legion Memorial Park, 8th St. between US 99 and Rockefeller Ave. Swimming: Municipal bathing beach, south bay front; Silver Lake, 5 m. S. of city limits on old Pacific Highway; Lake Stevens, 8 m. E., branch road from State 15. Hunting and Fishing: Pheasant and grouse hunting on adjacent upland areas; duck hunting on east lowlands and north tideflats. Fishing in the harbor and near-by streams. Annual Events: Civic Symphony Concerts, third week in Apr.; Snohomish County Music Festival, late in May; Sailboat Races, third week in June; Everett Yacht Club Regatta, July 4; Gladioli Show, third week in Aug.; Intercity Fair, Tyee Roundup (Salmon Derby), last week in Aug.; Flower Show, second week in Sept. EVERETT (30 alt., 30,224 pop.), county seat of Snohomish County, lumbering center, seaport, and distributing point for a fertile agricul- tural and dairying area, lies on a promontory between the sluggish Sno- homish River, with its muddy delta, on the east and north, and Port Gardner Bay, an arm of Puget Sound, on the west. In the business district, near the center of the city, substantial middle- aged buildings border broad avenues that run east-west across a ridge extending southward from the river to the high bluffs of Rucker Hill.

Noticeable among the older structures are a few newer, more modern buildings. On the hill and along the bayside to the north are attractive residences, surrounded by broad, close-clipped lawns, brightened in sea- son by daffodils, rows of irises, blossoming shrubs, roses in profusion, beds of flaming gladioli, and golden autumn leaves; even the sombreness of winter is broken by the sheen of laurel leaves and the orange and red berries of thorn and holly. Between these residential districts and the business and industrial areas are scattered sections where the mass of the population lives. The industrial life of the city centers in the area along the bayside and the river front. Here, fringing the city, are factories and mills with their stacks and burners, smoking volcanoes by day and glowing infernos by night. Except when a holiday or curtailed production brings a tem- porary lull, the air reverberates with the whine of saws, the strident blasts of whistles, the hiss of steam, and the clank of wheels as engines shunt cars of freight on the sidings. Moored along the docks are freighters, their strong booms swinging incoming cargo to the docks and outgoing cargo, mostly lumber and lumber products, to the decks and into the holds. Quickly the gangs of longshoremen load and unload the slings, expertly using their claw-like hooks, and alert to the hazards of snapping cables and shifting cargo. Trucks rumble over the docks, which vibrate on supporting pilings. Dotting the bay are numerous pleasure craft, trawlers, sturdy tugs with rafts of logs in tow, and rowboats, in which fishermen drift for hours with the tide or row, face forward, with the peculiar skill and ease acquired only through years of practice. The prevailing westerly winds are usually brisk and occasionally become gales that whip the slate-gray waters of the bay into whitecaps. Sometimes a pall of fog settles over the area, and then foghorns moan their warnings to shipping. The salt air is charged with the pungent odor of seaweed from the brine-soaked tidelands, the resinous tang of newly cut lumber and of smoke from the burning slabs and sawdust, the clean odor of tar from nets and creosoted pilings, and the musty smell of rotting logs, heavy with barnacles. At night the low, musical throb of Diesel engines and the impatient chugging of gasoline motors float across the water, or the whistle of a train, clear and resonant, echoes through the moisture-laden air. Here is registered the heartbeat of Everett. When mills and factories are running and wages are steady, customers crowd the local stores, bills are paid, houses are painted or re-shingled, and old cars are exchanged for new ones. But when the pulse is weakened by curtailed production and consequent unemployment, not only does local business diminish, but the neighboring farming area, which finds a market for its produce in the city, also suffers. The first white man to leave a record of discovery of the bay along which rise today the smokestacks of Everett was Captain George Van- couver, whose ship furled its sails at Possession Sound on June 4, 1792; he took possession for Britain, changing the name of the entire region


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l88 WASHINGTON from New Albion to New Georgia, in honor of King George III. Two other place names commemorate Vancouver's visit: Port Gardner Bay and Port Susan. Not until 1862 did the area around Port Gardner Bay become of interest to white men. In that year, for reasons not ascertainable from the records, Dennis Brigham, who had been listed in the census of 1860 as living in House No. 67, Whidbey Island, age 50, left the compara- tive comfort of his island home for Port Gardner Peninsula, cleared a bit of land along the bay near the point which today marks the foot of California Avenue, built a small shack, and planted a few apple trees. In 1860 a trading post had been established at Elliott Point at Mukil- teo, as the Indians called it, to the south of Port Gardner Bay, and to the east the small settlement of Snohomish had become the seat of the newly created county. By this time, too, the Indians in the environs of Port Gardner Bay had sealed their fate by signing the treaty of 1855, under the provisions of which they retired to the Tulalip Reservation. But until Brigham cleared his little patch of land, the promontory of Port Gardner Bay had remained a dead center in the eddies of settlement that swirled around it. In the seventies and eighties, a few settlers trickled into the area; a telegraph station was set up on the top of the bluff, and a combination hotel, store, and saloon was opened. But conditions that were to lead to the establishment of a new town on Port Gardner Bay were developing. News of the wealth of timber in the Northwest had been carried down the coast to San Francisco and had even sounded in the ears of more astute and farseeing promoters in the East. The industrial expansion following the Civil War had ushered in a period of railroad building; it was only a matter of time before the existence of a market for lumber and of necessary transportation facilities led to the development of lum- bering in the Snohomish Valley. In 1889, Bethel J. Rucker and his brother, Wyatt J., made a recon- naissance of the area and apparently appreciated its industrial and com- mercial possibilities. Here was a vast forest reached by means of the Snohomish River and its many tributaries, down which logs could be floated for miles to sawmills accessible to ocean-going vessels. Further, rumors were afloat that the western terminus of the Great Northern might be located on Port Gardner Bay. Soon the Rucker brothers and other men, who also perceived the speculative possibilities of holdings in this area, acquired large tracts of land. The Ruckers, prompted to action by rumors that different interests were eager to acquire control, filed in 1890 the 50-acre townsite plat of Port Gardner, only to withdraw it in the same year in order to re-file, under the name of the Everett Land Company, with Henry Hewitt, Jr., and eastern capital represented by Colby, Hoyt, C. W. Wetmore of the American Steel and Barge Company, Rockefeller, and others. The town was replatted and named Everett in honor of the son of Charles L. Colby.

This announcement was followed by a rush for the choice locations; the pot of gold was seen in real estate, trade, timber, and commerce. Extra steamers brought in promoters, laborers, land agents, bartenders, merchants, cooks, and engineers by the hundreds. Some of the new- comers hastily constructed shacks and log cabins, but many were forced to live in makeshift shelters or in tents. So much in demand were places to sleep that, according to accounts, John T. Rogers found his coffins more in demand for bunks than for funerals. Bars were constructed from a few planks and a bit of canvas. With as much dispatch as possible, patches of land were cleared of trees and underbrush; the nights were bright with the glow of burning stumps, and smoke hung heavy and pungent over the new settlement. A few rutty roads and trails served as streets, along which settlers cautiously picked their way by day or stumbled through mud holes by night. Rain fell steadily, but it could not drown the high hopes and visions of wealth born of rumors that a projected factory, a barge plant, a pulp mill, and other industrial ven- tures would soon make the jumble of tents and shacks into a thriving and populous city. The town grew rapidly. By 1891 it had a population of 3,000, a fire department, a schoolhouse, a bank, and three newspapers. In 1892 the city's first department store was erected by John Hudson Clark, of Wisconsin; it stood in a "stump patch" so far from town that a free bus was used to attract customers. The Puget Sound Wire Company had opened and was furnishing light and power to a number of business establishments and homes; the Puget Sound Pulp and Paper Company (now known as the Everett Pulp and Paper Company), the first such mill in the State, had begun to operate with a daily capacity of 15 tons; the Sumner Iron Works, a smelter and reduction plant, a tannery, a few small shingle mills, six banks, numerous real-estate offices, several stores, and telephone service had been established. By this time, too, development of the Monte Cristo silver holdings by the Rockefeller interests was well along, and many saw Everett as a mining center as well as an industrial city. Regular government not yet having been organized, a self-constituted law enforcement agency, the Committee of Twenty-One, was formed to combat lawlessness, which ran from rowdi- ness and drunkenness to robbery and murder. On April 27, 1893, the town was incorporated. But the dreams of becoming an industrial center could come true only if ready access to markets were provided by means of transcontinental railroad connections. Even before the town was platted, Hewitt and the Ruckers had envisioned the coming of the Great Northern Railway; Hill's announcement that he would make the town the terminal was the stimulus to further expansion. The last spike was driven early in 1893, and on June 15, 1893, the first through train left Minneapolis for the West. Now, with rich natural resources and land and water transpor- tation, the future of Everett seemed assured. Scarcely was the boom well under way before the new town was hit by the nation-wide depression and panic of 1893. Hundreds were thrown


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I90 WA SHINGTON out of work. Everett was not hit so hard as were many other towns; nevertheless, conditions were bad. Through the winter of 1893-4, the jobless filled the streets by day, and at night slept in hovels or flop- houses or kept warm in saloons. The slight upturn in the summer of 1894 was not maintained, even though the first whaleback barge was launched with much fanfare on October 24, 1894. The only bright spot in 1895 was the construction of the Bell-Nelson Sawmill, and the same year saw the first bank failure, with attendant hardships. The depression continued through 1896. By this time the barge works and the nail factory were admitted failures, and the Rockefeller mining venture at Monte Cristo was bogging down. Then came the disastrous floods of 1897, when the river, swollen with unusually heavy rains, inundated hundreds of acres, swept bridges away, and washed out a section of the tracks to the Monte Cristo mines. Within a short time this venture shut down permanently. Before the turn of the century, the rough edges of town life were beginning to be worn off. Women had arrived in increasing numbers, and their coming meant the stabilizing of community life through the establishment of family groups. This change in social structure was accompanied by an increasing emphasis on schools and churches, and by agitation for better living conditions, and against saloons and drinking, gambling, prostitution, and other forms of vice. The coming of women also meant an increase in social life. Theatricals, tableaux, and dances became frequent occurrences, the Firemen's Ball being one of the leading social events of the year. For quieter evenings at home, charades and the stereoscope offered diversion. The talking machine had made its appearance in 1897, when a local drugstore offered with every 10c pur- chase the privilege of listening to a record. Excursions up the river on the little stern-wheelers, bicycling up the road toward Snohomish to the Bicycle Tree, berrying, fishing, and hunting were popular forms of amusement in summer. Holidays were great events, with canoe, sack, and egg races. Theaters had been established, the naughtiest and liveliest being the Casino. These were the days of the hack and the surrey, of leg- of-mutton sleeves, of cuspidors, blacksmith shops and rock candy and rye whisky for colds. Social affairs began to be more elaborate for those whose incomes were sufficiently large, but simple and inexpensive amuse- ments, picnics for the family or a bucket of beer from the corner saloon for the men, were about all that a mill worker's family could afford. For the floater, who came to town on Saturday night to enjoy a few riotous days after the hazards of daily work and the brutal life in vermin-infested camps, there were numerous saloons and brothels, where his wages were extracted from him in short order. During the first ten years of the town's existence, considerable build- ing had been done. In 1896 the main thoroughfare was Hewitt Street, the bayside area and Rucker Hill still being largely undeveloped. Along the river were the low sprawling buildings of the "old" town, while Upon the ridge the newer business blocks were being erected. Some of these buildings are still standing, dark and gloomy, with narrow windows


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Photograph courtesy of Olympia Chamber of Commerce CROWD ASSEMBLED AT THE CAPITOL FOR INAUGURATION OF ELISH A P. FERRY AS GOVERNOR IN 1889, THE FIRST YEAR OF STATEHOOD Photograph courtesy of Otympta Chamber of Commerce STATE CAPITOL, OLYMPIA

Reproduction of old print by courtesy of U. S. A Signal Corp. FORT WALLA WALLA y of rtny Signal Corps CHEMAKANE MISSION


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Photograph by Stuart B. Hertz ALEXANDER'S BLOCKHOUSE, COl HEVILLE

"OFFICERS' CLUB," VANCOUVER BARRACKS Photograph courtesy of Camera Shop, Vancouver

RIVERSIDE AVENUE, SPOKANE, AFTER THE FIRE OF 1889


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Photograph courtesy Hudson's Bay Company S.S. BEAVER. FIRST STEAMSHIP ON THE PACIFIC COAST This picture was taken in 1888 after this historic vessel, launched in 1835, came to its end on the rocks at Prospect Point. SEATTLE WHARVES (1878)

COAST INDIANS WEAVING BASKETS

r. B. Inverarity MAKAH INDIA


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- - - -

-- -- - - - NEZ PERCE WAR PARADE (July 4, 1901) Braves and their families from all parts of the Colville Reservation attended this celebration. - INDIAN VILLAGE-NESPELEM Photograph courtesy of R. B. Inverarity -

set in deep recesses. By 1900 the population had reached 7,838, the main thoroughfare had been planked, and board sidewalks were laid along many of the streets. During the hot, dry months the streets were dusty and the boards of the walks warped in the sun, while wet weather turned many streets into seas of mud. Residences of relatively affluent families were ornate, with cornices and scrollwork; those of the workers were still largely makeshifts. The open country was within walking distance, and cows were occasionally pastured within the limits of the city. Here as elsewhere in the United States, the expansion of industry was accompanied by considerable unrest. The hard times of the nineties, with consequent unemployment or sometimes inadequate pay and long hours, led to a growing movement for labor organization. In 1900, the Everett Central Labor Council was formed. Within 6 months, 27 trade unions were organized, and for the first time Everett celebrated Labor Day. Wages at this time averaged from $1 to $2 a day for a 10-hour day; the monthly wage was seldom much more than $60. Layoffs were frequent, and, particularly in the sawmills, hazards were many. The shingle weavers demanded a 10c-an-hour increase; other unions demanded a 9- hour day. No concrete gains seem to have been made, but labor was beginning to feel the need for united action. Moreover, the increasing size of plants and the increasing influence of eastern capital made a definite cleavage between th employers and workers. Various social issues were also assuming importance. As early as 1900, the conflict betwen the wide-open-town advocates and the anti- vice and anti-alcohol forces had begun. By 1901, at least 29 saloons were doing a lively business. The new Washington Brewing Company, established in 1900, was finding a good local market for its output. By 1904 the number of saloons had risen to 34, one of the most elaborate being Feeney's. Opposing the open-town forces were most of the church groups and the International Order of Good Templars and the Women's Christian Temperance Union, two organizations that were finding considerable support among the more sedate and steady elements in the population, particularly the Scandinavians. In the early 1900's, the glamorous vision of Everett as an industrial center was beginning to fade. The barge works, after the single abortive venture that revealed the unseaworthiness of the whaleback craft, was out of the picture. The brave venture in the manufacture of nails also proved to have overlooked certain practical features, such as the dis- tance from the source of supplies and the limited demand for this product. The smelter remained, but its days, too, were numbered. New enterprises, however, had been launched, stimulated partly by the grow- ing local demands and partly by the demands from outside markets. A tile works, brickyards, machine shops, and a flour mill were all in opera- tion; and the Sumner Iron Works was active, having launched with great pride in 1900 the Telegraph, generally considered the fastest stern- wheeler afloat at the time. At the opening of the twentieth century, the role that lumber was to play in the growth of the city was clearly seen by some promoters.

Already the waterways were bordered by 10 shingle mills and 8 saw- mills, and the pulp mill was operating. The city's destiny, at least as long as timber could be cut in the hinterlands or towed in, was certain —Everett was to be a sawmill town. The dominance of lumber was indisputably established by the advent of the Weyerhaeuser lumber interests; actually as early as 1893 they had been reaching into the region in preliminary surveys, but not until 1902, when they purchased the Bell-Nelson Mill, did they enter into active operation. The groundwork for the Weyerhaeuser expansion in the area was laid by the provisions of the Forestry Reservation Act of 1897, by which a system of forest reservations was established, with the provision that owners of land taken into the reserve should be allowed to select a like amount of acreage elsewhere. This provision led in 1899 to the acquisition by the Northern Pacific Railway of big stands of timber, which were sold to the Weyerhaeuser interests for $6,000,000, the company thus acquiring a vast domain of 40,000,000,000 feet of timber. During the first decade of the twentieth century, the mills of the city were operating full blast; tugs with rafts in tow were working 24 hours a day; the whine of saws often sounded day and night. Over 250,000,000 feet of lumber were cut in 1902. Mills continued to expand their plants and to increase in number. By 1904 two more lumber mills and two more shingle mills had been built. Farther and farther inland the lumber camps went, with their ox teams to snake the logs out on skidroads and float them down the river. By night the sky along the river glowed from the light of the burners, and smoke hung heavy over the lowlands or swept inland with the brisk winds from Puget Sound. Some 3,000 workers answered the whistles. Timber had indeed become the recognized first resource of Everett and the adjacent valley regions, and only a few prophetic individuals shook their heads in apprehension as they saw the big trees, source of so much local pride, crashing by thousands under the impact of the logger's ax. Still to be seen in Clark Pit is a relic of this decade, the "Tree- House," constructed from the base of an enormous tree, which was exhibited at the World's Fair at St. Louis in 1904-5. In 1906-7 another big enterprise, the Canyon Lumber Company, built a huge mill on a 52-acre tract on the Snohomish River at the foot of Everett Avenue. These were years of considerable prosperity for the owners of the mills: lumber prices had advanced and demands had in- creased. Wages averaged $1.75 to $2 a day, and employment was steadier, thus insuring a higher annual wage. The early years of the twentieth century saw an influx of immigrants to the West; about 50,000 came to Washington, and many settled in Everett, attracted there by the publicity of the Great Northern Railway and by the opportunities for employment in sawmills, fisheries, factories, logging camps, and railroad shops. Most of these newcomers were unskilled laborers. Many were Scandinavians from their homeland or the Middle West, thrifty, hard-working, serious-minded people, who

were seeking a better life for themselves and for their children and who contributed a stabilizing element to Everett. As in most cities, some of the more interesting spots were known in Everett only to a few. Such a place was Adam Hill's Bookstore, where, amid a jumble of books, an assortment of people gathered to talk about politics, pioneer days, and philosophy, as well as about homelier bread- and-butter affairs; and to swap tall tales and loggers' yarns. Here were books of all kinds: romances, adventure stories, and yellow-backed thrill- ers; dull-covered scholarly tomes; and volumes by Jack London, Robert Ingersoll, Tom Paine, Morris Hillquit, Upton Sinclair, Gustavus Myers, and Voltaire. The browser was as welcome as the customer, and, what- ever were his tastes or preferences, he usually could find what pleased him. A premonition of the panic of 1907 was seen in the tremors of the financial market, which were felt early in the spring as far as the Pacific Northwest. But activity continued throughout the summer. Then in the fall the panic broke with dramatic suddenness. A week before the crash, burners were glowing and all the town was busy. Industries were booming, and not enough workers could be found to fill the demand. Wages, too, were at record high levels. Two weeks later, however, the bottom had fallen out of everything. Industry had simply stopped, and while the market gamblers rubbed their bruised financial heads and considered methods of recouping their fortunes, armies of unemployed, appearing as if by magic, marched the streets in broken ranks, looking for jobs that did not exist and eating and sleeping where their few dollars would stretch the farthest or where charity handed out its rations. No banks closed in Everett, but the city was hard hit and did not entirely recover for years. By 1910 Everett had reached the 10,000 mark in population. The Ballinger scandal had broken. River steamers were disappearing, al- though a few stern-wheelers and an occasional four-master were still to be seen. Livery stables and four-in-hands were giving way to garages and automobiles; the interurban to Seattle was running on an hourly schedule. Men were taking to golf, although fishing and hunting were still the most popular forms of recreation. Moving pictures were in, and an attempt had been made to stop the showing of the Johnson-Jeffries fight pictures. At this time most of the streets of the residential districts were unpaved, and hazel bushes and blackberry vines still grew pro- lifically in the suburbs. Local agitation for temperance and prohibition came to a head in 1q1o, when the local "dries" won a victory at the polls. For a number of years the battle had been waged with moral, economic, and political arguments. Militant reformers, many of them women, had noted with anxiety the number of saloons and their flourishing business; they had visualized the primrose path that stretched before the small boys who were to be seen, occasionally, carrying home a pail of "suds." More and more frequently temperance groups made themselves audible. Their victory was forecast in the Sunday-closing blue law passed by the State

legislature in 1909. A final campaign led to triumph at the polls the next year, a triumph, however, of brief duration; the local-option law was repealed by a narrow margin in 1912. Although labor unions had existed in Everett since 1892, and agi- tation for shorter hours, job security, higher wages, and better working conditions had been growing stronger, there was little organization until the closing years of the first decade of the twentieth century. Workers in logging camps were coming to be largely migratory laborers, who traveled by brake rods, blind baggage, or boxcar, carrying their rolls of bedding from camp to camp, often a dirty, vermin-infested, and disease-ridden place. Partially because of their migratory tendencies, the loggers found in the I.W.W. the type of organization best-suited to their needs. Formed in 1905, the I.W.W. had become very active in the second decade of the century. During these years, increasing pressure from the workers and resistance to their demands on the part of em- ployers and operators led to intermittent clashes, accompanies sometimes by violence. However, the increased demand for lumber at higher prices, as a result of the World War, brought steadier employment, higher wages, and general improvement in working conditions. At the same time, the I.W.W. ceased to be a factor of importance. Everett prospered throughout the war years and in the period that followed. In 1918 the municipally owned Port of Everett was established to serve the commercial and industrial growth of the city, now nearing the 30,000 population mark. In 1921, however, when the lumber market cracked and prices dropped from $31 a thousand board feet to $13.50, Everett, like other cities dependent primarily upon the lumber industry, fell upon dull times. Wages declined, employment dropped off along with the decline in production, and stores and service trades, supported mainly by the pay rolls of industry, felt the pinch; some trouble between em- ployers and employees resulted, with violence flaring spasmodically. By 1923, increased efficiency in industry permitted greater individual output, the nation-wide building boom had started, and wages began to rise. Locally, a period of construction followed, comparable to that of the nineties; fireproof business and hotel structures, two schools, two hospitals, a new labor temple, many churches, and a modernistic city hall were constructed. This period terminated in 1929 with Black Friday and the depression. Everett is at present in transition, as the factors that led to its growth diminish in importance and new ones appear. Railroad pay rolls are no longer significant, and the partial depletion of timber resources in the surrounding area has brought considerable unemployment. Snohomish County has an estimated pulpwood stand of 10,000,000,000 feet, and Everett, with two of its mills adapted to the handling of pulpwood, hope- fully looks to pulp production for the solution of some of its more press- ing industrial problems. An iron works, a shipyard, a brick and tile kiln, plywood factories, and wood-processing plants add to the volume of local industry and commerce. Fishing still is an important industry, and the

surrounding agricultural area is contributing more and more to the stability of the city. Today a brisk industrial city, Everett has a fine school system (includ- ing a high school and two junior high schools), many churches, various cultural and social organizations, a daily newspaper, several entertain- ment centers, and, what is perhaps most significant for its future, an energetic and progressive citizenry. An interesting development is the new Army airport, now (1941) under construction at a cost of several million dollars. It is to be the base for the Fifty-fourth Pursuit Group and the Thirty-fourth Air Base Group—180 officers and 1,800 men. It was begun by the county in 1936, on elevated land exceptionally free from fog, about seven and one-half miles southwest of Everett. The Civic Auditorium, on Colby Avenue, completed early in 1940, is an expression of strong community interests and cultural development. Here the Everett Civic Symphony gives its concerts, and audiences of 3,000 or more gather for the Snohomish County May Music Festival. POINTS OF INTEREST 1. The SNOHOMISH COUNTY COURTHOUSE, Rockefeller Ave. between Wall St. and Pacific Ave., completed in 1910, replaces the old courthouse, which burned in 1909. The building, an adaptation of Spanish mission architecture, is of white stucco, with a red-tile roof and an attractive clock tower and cupola. A. F. Heide of Seattle was the architect. The interior is finished in dark oak. The Annex (1908) was saved when the original courthouse (1897) was destroyed by fire. 2. The CITY HALL, corner Wetmore Ave. and Wall St., erected in 1930 after a design by A. H. Albertson of Seattle, is trimly modern in appearance. Ivory-tinted pilasters, ornamented with guilloches of cast stone, soften the severity of the concrete and cream-colored brick walls. Over the main entrance, through which prisoners pass to the third-floor jail, there was originally a bronze plaque inscribed "Eternal Vigilance Is the Price of Liberty," but public ridicule caused city officials to remove the plaque, with its ironic pronouncement. 3. The EVERETT PUBLIC LIBRARY (open 11-9 weekdays), SW. corner Hoyt and Everett Aves., admirably expresses its function in the fine simplicity of architectural treatment, both exterior and interior. It is entirely modern, not only in style of architecture, but also in structural materials and equipment. The building, of brown smooth stone with terra cotta trim of the same color, was designed by Bebb and Gould, Seattle architects, and was completed in 1934. The main en- trance doors and the portico over the main entrance are faced with aluminum. The interior walls of the main lobby and the counter, shelves, and other equipment are paneled in oak. Plastered panels above the doors to the reading rooms and above the balcony are decorated with murals depicting the city's history, by John T. Jacobsen of Seattle. Sculptural detail in britannia metal fill other similar panels. In the main reading room, four plaques of the same metal, sculptured in bas-relief by Dudley Pratt, illustrate the history of book-making. In this room the

rot-t- or latt-

ceiling is beamed with fir, and here, as in the lobby, the lighting is indirect. The floors in all sections open to the public are of cork tile. The library's 38,000 volumes include a genealogical section, special collections on lumbering and drama, and a file of early newspapers. 4. TRINITY EPISCOPAL CHURCH (persons desiring to view interior call at rectory, 2309 Hoyt Ave., weekdays 10-4, San. 1-4). SE. corner Hoyt Ave. and 23rd St., was dedicated by Bishop Frederick W. Keator on Trinity Sunday, 1921. A bronze tablet on the wall opposite the entrance is inscribed: To the glory of God and in commemoration of the victory of Christianity and civilization in the World War this church is built by a grateful people 'Lest we forget.' The War Memorial Church was designed by E. T. Osborn, Seattle architect, and is a fine example of perpendicular, or English Gothic, archi- tecture. The exterior walls are of buff-colored tapestry brick, with trim and ornamental work of cast stone in a somewhat deeper buff. The moderately gabled, slate-roofed nave rises some 20 feet above the lean-to roofs of the aisles; surmounting the points of either gable are small Celtic crosses of buff-colored stone. The facade, at the west end of the building, is chiefly notable for its expanse of mullioned, transomed windows of stained glass in geometrical design; the three-centered arch is richly decorated with stone tracery. Dominating the facade and immediately north of the nave is a 70-foot octagonal tower, flat-roofed with decorated belfry. In the northwest corner of the structure is an austere and low-arched doorway, the main entrance to the church auditorium. In this spacious rectangle, a grand sweep of Gothic arches, soaring up from the low-roofed aisles, terminates in a maze of slender ribs sup- porting the roof of the nave. Overlooking the chancel is the large east window with its Biblical figures and texts—a poem of iridescent color. The artist, Charles Jay Connick, is known for his windows in St. Martin's Chapel, Cathedral of St. John the Divine and in the Princeton University Chapel. To the left and right of the altar are narrow panels in oil by Mary G. Allen—figures of St. Francis and St. John. On the east wall of the auditorium, to the right of the chancel rail, hangs a carved crucifix given by Anton Lang of Oberammergau; and near by stand a pair of tall wooden candlesticks from the first Episcopal church established in the State of Washington. 5. CLARK PARK, 25th St. between Oakes and Lombard Aves. and extending to 24th St., contains the G1ant Cedar Stump that was EVERETT—POINTS OF INTEREST 1. County Courthouse 2. City Hall 3. Public Library 4. Trinity Episcopal Church 5. Clark Park 6. Our Lady of Perpetual Help Church 7. Weyerhaeuser Sulphite Plant 8. Memorial Park 9. Site of Vancouver's Landing 10. S.S. Black Prince 11. Forest Park 12. Children's Home

exhibited at the St. Louis Exposition in 1904. The "Tree House" in the interior of the stump is not open. The park was named in honor of John Judson Clark, who established a store in the bayside section in 1891, dealing extensively with the Indians. 6. OUR LADY OF PERPETUAL HELP CHURCH, Cedar St. between 26th St. and Everett Ave., built in 1926, is an impressive ex- ample of Romanesque architecture, with the traditional cruciform ground plan. Corinthian columns, supporting the low arches of its facade, soften the effect of sombre massiveness characteristic of this style of architecture. 7. The gigantic WEYERHAEUSER SULPHITE-PULP PLANT (open by permission) blocks off Everett's southwest water front. The plant can be identified by its six digesters—steel-sheathed tanks like great inverted bottles—in which chips are cooked preparatory to making wood pulp. The EVERETT WATER FRONT, extending W. of Vernon and Grand Aves. and inland from Puget Sound along the Snohomish River, is thronged with industrial activity; a score of mills and factories may be seen close up, although visitors are warned of the mechanical hazards. Northward are numerous piers and canneries, headquarters for the fish- eries industry; another pulp plant and several lumber and shingle mills, including the Clough-Hartley properties; casket factories and an estab- lishment for creosoting poles and piling. Eastward along the river, below the northern extension of Grand Avenue, are Weyerhaeuser mills B and C, the latter noted for its operation with electric and compressed air equipment. On the southeast river front are other lumber mills, a foundry and iron works, and the Everett Pulp and Paper Company mill. 8. EVERETT MEMORIAL PARK, at 9th St. between US 99 and Grand Ave. along Port Gardner Bay, embraces 187 acres on the site of the ancient Snohomish Indian village Hay-bohl-ub, or Hebolb, where in 1863 a combined store, hotel, and saloon marked the local advent of civilization. Overlooking the bay, Snohomish River, and Whidbey, Ca- mano, and Hat Islands, the site served as a lookout for the Ind1ans. The park was established in 1932 by the Earl Faulkner Post of the American Legion, with the double purpose of creating a memorial to soldiers of the World War and, at the same time, providing work for the unemployed. The park has an 18-hole golf course planned by the late Chandler Egan (greens fee 50c), six paved tennis courts, a baseball diamond, and a free campground equipped with kitchen. 9. The SITE OF VANCOUVER'S LANDING is included in Grand Avenue Park, between 16th and 19th Sts., a landscaped strip extending for a quarter of a mile along a steep bluff overlooking Port Gardner Bay. A small granite marker, erected in 1915 by the Marcus Whitman Chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution, com- memorates the arrival of the explorer, Captain George Vancouver. The inscription reads: On the beach near this spot Vancouver landed June 4,1792.

10. The S.S. BLACK PRINCE (open weekdays by permission), Pier 2, foot of Hewitt Ave., an old stern-wheeler built in 1901 at Everett, is used by yachtsmen as a club. The vessel has been preserved on piling, and the hull and exterior are intact, even to the big paddle wheel. Alterations in the interior and additions have been made by the Yacht Club. 11. FOREST PARK, Federal St. between 40th and 45th Sts., an area of 112 acres in woodland setting, is bisected by Mukilteo Highway. The south section, covering a low hill, contains playfields, wading pool, picnic grounds, and a small zoo and aviary, with a collection of game birds of the Northwest. The north, and lower, section of the park re- mains mostly in its natural state, although trails have been cut along either side of the ravine that traverse it from north to south. A camping ground with kitchen has been established near the highway, and an arboretum to contain native shrubs is being planned. The nucleus of Forest Park was a 40-acre tract given to the city in 1900 by William G. Swalwell, an Everett pioneer. During the last few years the area has been improved and beautified by Works Progress Administration workers; in the zoo, the animal houses have been reno- vated, and pastures made for deer, elk, and bison; the hillsides have been terraced and planted, and bridle paths and trails laid out. Seventeen dams within half a mile provide beautiful cascades, as well as prevent erosion and check the flow of Pigeon Creek. Flowering crab apple trees will cover acres of hillside. 12. The PARKLAND LUTHERAN CHILDREN'S HOME (open 8:30-5 weekdays, 1-4 Sun.) 45th St. and Federal Ave., a three- story concrete building, whose dome, overlaid with rust-resistant metal, shines like burnished silver, has been a conspicuous landmark for years. The Norwegian Lutheran College was opened here in 1908; after re- organization as the Columbia Lutheran College, the institution was finally closed because of lack of funds. In 1925 the building was con- verted into an orphanage. The 80-foot TOTEM POLE, 44th St. and Rucker Ave., was carved by Chief William Shelton of the Tulalip Indian Reservation to commemorate Chief Patkanim of the Salish Indians. In 1855, Chief Patkanim, with three other chiefs, signed the Mukilteo Treaty (see Tour 8b), which ceded to the United States the lands from Elliott Bay to the Canadian boundary. Patkanim died in 1858 and is buried in the Tulalip cemetery. On a bronze tablet set into the west base of the pole, the work of J. A. Wehn of Seattle, is a relief bust of the Indian warrior, who fought for the white people, and a commemorative inscription. Chief Shelton, the carver of the 16 groups of figures on the pole, has given an interpretation of the legends represented, in his Story of the Totem Pole, or Indian Legends (1935).

POINTS OF INTEREST IN ENVIRONS Snohomish River Mills, 3 m.; Mukilteo Treaty Monument, 4.8 m.\ Tulalip Indian Reservation, Indian Village, 11.6 m. (see Tour 8i). Whidbey Island and site of Port Ebey, 7.5 m., including 5 m. to ferry at Mukilteo and 2.5 m. across Puget Sound, (see Tour SC). Lake Stevens, 8 m. (see Tour 1C). Paine Field 7.5 m., SW. on Mukilteo Highway off US 99.

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Railroad Stations: Fourth and Adams Sts. for Union Pacific RJL; Columbia St. between 7th and 9th Sts. for Northern Pacific R.R. Bus Station: 107 7th Ave. E. for North Coast and Greyhound Lines, Union Pa- cific Stages, and Washington Motor Coach Lines. Taxis: 20 blocks 35c; 3.5 miles 50c. City Busses: Fare 10c. Traffic Regulations: No one-way streets; main arterial streets: Capitol Way and 4th St. All streets adequately marked for parking limitations in business section. Street Order and Numbering: E. and W. from Capitol Way; N. and S. from 4th St. Accommodations: Five hotels; several cabin camps. Information Service: Olympia Chamber of Commerce, Automobile Club of Washington (AAA), Olympian Hotel, Legion Way and Washington St. Motion Picture Houses: Three. Radio Station: KGY (1240 kc). Athletics: Stevens Field, 22nd and Washington Sts.; YMCA, 510 Franklin St. Golf: Mountain View Golf and Country Club, 3.5 m. E. on Pacific Highway, 9 holes, greens fee 50c; Glengary Golf Course, 4 m. W. on Shelton and Aber- deen Highway, 9 holes, greens fee 50c; Olympia Golf and Country Club, 3 m. N; on W. side of bay, 9 holes, greens fee 50c. Riding: East Bay Drive near Priest Point Park, 50c per hour. Parks: Sylvester Park, Capitol Way, between Legion Way and 7th St.; Priest Point Park, East Bay Drive, 2 m. N. of Olympia, recreational facilities; Wood- ruff Park, West Olympia. Yacht Club: Foot of Franklin St. Annual Events: Thurston County Festival, last two weeks of Aug.; Olympia Flower Show, near the 15th of Aug. OLYMPIA (71 alt., 13,254 pop.), State capital and seat of Thurston County, spreads fan-like from its harbor on Puget Sound over gently sloping hills, with Mount Rainier on the east and the more distant Olympics visible to the north. Here, near the place where the Nis- qually once met in solemn council to devise means of protection against the soleeks itsweet (angry brown bear), today legislators convene to rep- resent the citizens of the State named in honor of the Great White Father. From a broad knoll near the center of the town rise the massive white sandstone buildings of the Capitol Group, with the tall white dome of the Legislative Building conspicuous for miles around. In gen- eral Olympia has an atmosphere of conservatism and moderate pros- perity. Modern buildings predominate in the small compact business district, while residential areas represent an older architectural mode, quiet and attractive, with substantial homes, smooth lawns, and long colonnades of shade trees. The Pacific Highway bisects the city, giv-

ing a glimpse of practically every phase of activity and a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains and the harbor. Southernmost port on Puget Sound, Olympia is the center of an industrial area concen- trated along the water front, where the Deschutes River flows into Budd Inlet. Sawmills and woodworking plants, knitting mills, and oyster-packing houses cover the area between the east and west bays. About two miles south of the city center is Tumwater, home of the locally famous brewery. Adjacent to the mitten-shaped tideflat is anchor- age deep enough for ocean-going freighters; and in the shallow waters near by are the beds of the delicious Olympia oyster—a bivalve so small that 1,600 to the gallon makes an average pack. Governmental employees of city, county, and State constitute a sub- stantial part of the residents. The days of such citizens are for the most part well-ordered in the long-established routine of their work, and the city reflects in some measure this placidity and economic stability. But, being a capital city, Olympia is greatly influenced by shifting polit- ical winds and registers recurrent changes in tempo in the life of its population, as the legislature convenes or disperses or State administra- tions change. With the convening of the legislature, an air of hurry and bustle pervades the city. Legislators, their families, friends, and attendant lobbyists come and go; the hotels fill, and restaurants and shops do a thriving business; groups of people, generally engaged in political discussion, gather in lobbies, in capitol corridors, on the street; visitors throng the galleries as lawmakers deliberate; traffic is thick on Capitol Way. , The history of Olympia goes back to 1848, when Edmund Sylvester, a Gloucester fisherman, and Levi Lathrop Smith, a Presbyterian divinity student, came to the region, called by the Nisqually tribe stechchass (place of the bear). These strangely assorted partners each secured a 320-acre land grant from the Oregon Provisional Government. The former chose Chamber's Prairie; the latter, the south shore of Budd Inlet. They agreed that, upon either's death, the survivor would be- come heir. They adopted for their lands a composite name, Smithter —later modified by usage to Smithfield. In 1845 a group of five settlers under the direction of Michael T. Simmons had arrived at near-by Tumwater. Eight of the new arrivals planned and built the first sawmill of the region near the northwestern part of lower Tumwater Falls. With the arrival of Father Pascal Ricard and nine Oblate fathers in June 1848, St. Joseph's Mission was established on Budd Inlet. The site, today called Priest's Point, a beautiful wooded park overlooking the bay, is the city's principal play- ground. Accident decided which one of the two founders should succeed to control of the site; Smith, while traveling by canoe to the sessions of the Oregon Provisional Government, suffered an epileptic attack and was drowned when his craft capsized. Under the Oregon Provisional Land Laws, Sylvester became the owner of Smith's claim—the present site of Olympia.

The village was practically depopulated during the California gold rush of 1849. Even Sylvester succumbed to the hope of striking it rich, but it was not long before this hope grew dim. Disappointed and homesick, he joined with several others in the purchase of the brig Orbit and set sail for Budd Inlet, arriving there on New Year's Day, 1850. Later, the Orbit sailed to San Francisco with a cargo of piling and returned with a supply of clothing, sugar, and miscellaneous supplies for the shelves of a small general store, the first in the region. Congress authorized the establishment of a custom-house in the grow- ing village on February 1851, thus creating the first port of entry on Puget Sound. S. P. Moses was appointed collector, and five months later the first mail contract was let to A. B. Robbeson for service by horseback and canoe between Smithfield and the Columbia River settlement. Inspired by the magnificent panorama of the Olympics, Colonel Isaac N. Ebey, who succeeded Moses as collector of customs, persuaded Syl- vester and the townfolk to rechristen the village Olympia. A townsite was platted and the lots were put up for sale. In close succession a series of memorable events occurred. In 1852 George A. Barnes opened a general merchandise store at the west end of First Street, the first sessions of a district court were convened in the custom-house; the Columbian was established with T. F. McElroy and J. W. Wiley as publishers; stage service to the Columbia River region began; and in December, the Reverend Benjamin Close delivered a sermon to the first Methodist congregation. Two years later, Presby- terian services were conducted in a cooper's shop by the Reverend George P. Whitworth, and the first church edifice in the region was erected by Roman Catholics in 1854. In 1852 agitation for the separation of the territory north of the Columbia got under way, and the Columbian was a powerful factor in developing public sentiment. The campaign was successful, and the new territory was created and named Washington in March 1853. So slowly, however, did dispatches travel from Washington, D. C, that the Columbian continued its urgent editorials for some weeks after the new Territory had been created. Major Isaac I. Stevens, appointed Territorial Governor, arrived November 25, 1853, and on November 28 proclaimed Olympia the Territorial capital. Then he launched vig- orously into the problems of the new commonwealth. The first Terri- torial legislature was convened in 1854. Indian unrest hastened completion of a 15-foot stockade around Olympia. The revenue cutter Joe Lane was stationed in the harbor so that if need be her cannon might aid in the defense of the town. After a year of war, United States troops restored tranquillity, and the cit- izens dismantled their stockade and planked the streets with its tim- bers. Soon activity was stimulated by the arrival of new settlers, and when Olympia was incorporated on September 4, 1859, the town's population was 1,489.

The next decade saw the extension of transcontinental telegraph lines into the Territory, service being initiated by Governor William Picker- ing, who exchanged greetings with President Lincoln in 1864. Six years later, a brick building was constructed at a cost of $20,000 to provide for the first bank. The number of steamships increased and the scope of their service was extended, until communication with other Puget Sound ports became regular. Despite bad roads, frequent stage service was maintained with Columbia River cities. Finally, in the 1880's a branch of the Northern Pacific entered the city. In 1889 another attempt was made to move the capital, but Olympia won 37,413 ballots out of a total of 41,416. Since 1900, development of Olympia, as a city, has followed a steady and uneventful course, which remains fundamentally unaltered even by the shifting pattern of Olympia, the capital. The bulk of the population consists to an appreciable extent of those who have steady employment in civil service and other governmental agencies, but new industries, such as that of oyster culture, and the expansion of old industries, particularly in the field of lumber products, have con- tributed materially toward the general stability. Another fact of real economic importance is that the city serves as a distributing center for freight shipped by inland waterways from down-Sou;id points to all southwest Washington. The Port of Olympia, an area of more than 700 square miles, co- extensive with Thurston County, serves a region highly productive in agricultural, mineral, and lumber resources. The Port, established at Olympia in 1926, receives annually more than 200 vessels; the trade is largely in lumber or finished products, such as furniture and ply- wood. Besides the county port, with its wharf, transit shed, and modern coldstorage plant, there are several oil docks and the wharf of the Olympia Oyster Company. In addition to fruit growing, the surrounding region has developed a stone quarry, logging and lumber- ing enterprises, diversified agriculture, and dairying as important indus- tries. Thus, Olympia a center of government has become also an inter- esting modern city. POINTS OF INTEREST 1. The SITE OF THE FIRST LEGISLATIVE HALL, Capitol Way between State and Olympia Aves., is marked by a bronze tablet set in the sidewalk. Here, on the second floor of a two-story frame store building, the first Territorial legislature met on February 27, 1854. The second and succeeding sessions were held in the Masonic Hall until 1863, when the legislators were convened in a frame build- ing that was intended for temporary use but served until 1903. There- after the legislature met in a building that had served as the county courthouse. In addition to the purchase price of $350,000, a sum of $475,000 was spent for alterations and enlargements. The building housed all State departments until the present building was ready for occupancy.


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O L Y M P I A 205 2. The J. J. BRENNER OYSTER PACKING PLANT (open 8-5 workdays), 502 4th Ave., is one of the oldest and largest of the numerous oyster-packing plants in the city. Workmen, wearing "mud- shoes" with webbed metal soles, pick the oysters by hand from the beds at low tide. The oysters are sorted at a grading depot, the smaller ones are returned, and those of marketable size are taken by the boatload to the packing plant. From refrigerated storage the oysters pass to the opening room, where skillful workmen open the shells with a putty- knife, scoop out the meats, and toss the shells into a chute. The meats are conveyed to the skimmer, washed, drained, packed, and sealed by machine in rustless metal cans, and put on ice until marketed. The shells are conveyed back to the oyster beds, where they are used as a cultch for seedling oysters that attach themselves to the shells during the growing period. 3. SYLVESTER PARK, Capitol Way between Legion Way and 7th Ave., named for its donor, Edmund Sylvester, is a one-block plot, attractively landscaped with shade trees, shrubs, and a pool. In the park is the Statue of John Rank1n Rogers, twice Governor and author of the "barefoot schoolboy law," designed to give "every poor son of this commonwealth a fair education." 4. The OLD STATE CAPITOL BUILDING (open 9-5 Mon.- Fri., g-12 Sat.), 7th Ave. between Washington and Franklin Sts., of gray stone in the Richardsonian Romanesque style, has pointed towers and high arched windows like those of a feudal castle. It was built in 1893, and is one of the best examples of Romanesque style in the State; Willis A. Ritchie was the architect. It still houses many State offices. 5. The SYLVESTER HOUSE (open by permission), 114 8th Ave., was built in 1856 by the pioneer, Edmund Sylvester, who hoped to have the house recognized as the finest in the Territory. He had a guard tower erected on the roof and shutters added to doors and win- dows. At that time, house paint was considered an extravagance, but he had his house painted white and, in spite of the contemporary belief that plumbing was a folly, had a running-water system installed. The high-ceilinged rooms are ornamented with copper moulding. The fire- places in the house were added several years after the house was built. Here in the Sylvester House, the Olympia Women's Club was organized March 10, 1883, with the stipulation that applicants for membership "must be honest, intelligent, and have good moral character." 6. The MASONIC TEMPLE (open g-12, 1-4 daily; Masons only), 804 Capitol Way, was built in 1911. It bears little resemblance to the original homely structure, built in 1852 at the edge of the forest; around this early temple were charred stumplands, and leading to it was a trail, muddy or dusty according to the prevailing weather. Old timers recall zigzagging lanterns slowly converging at the temple as the mem- bers picked their way through the stumps and over logs on winter nights. Two early sessions of the legislature were held here. In 1930 the original temple door, which had been lost for almost 20 years, was found in a barn. Upon the 8 panels of the door appro-

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O L Y M P I A 207 priate historical inscriptions were made, and the door itself hangs on one of the temple walls. 7. The THURSTON COUNTY COURTHOUSE, (open 9-5 weekdays), mo Capitol Way, an unpretentious four-story structure faced with gray Tenino sandstone, was finished in 1930. Joseph Wohleb, Olympia, was the architect. Simple and forthright in design, with little surface ornament, it is a good example of modern architectural design. 8. The CAPITOL GROUP, Capitol Way (US 99) between nth and 14th Aves., is modified Roman-Doric architecture, evidenced in the severity of line and in the sparsely ornamented columns, cornices, and pediments. The massive white sandstone buildings are set in a 35-acre tract overlooking the bay. Lawns, cut by curving driveways and walks, surround the buildings. The buildings were designed by the firm of Wilder and White of New York City, which submitted the winning design in a nation-wide architectural competition. Construction started in 1911. The first building, the Temple of Justice, was completed in 1921, and the latest, the Public Lands and Social Security Building, in 1935. The group, including the Legislative Building, Insurance Building, Highway Build- ing, and Transportation Building, represents an expenditure of $14,- 000,000. The Leg1slat1ve Bu1ld1ng (open 8-6 weekdays), Capitol Way be- tween 13th and 14th Aves., the sixth home of the legislature, is the central structure in the group. With its massive white dome, its mon- umental design, and its placement in relation to the other buildings, it has the general effect of "a broad base from which an adequate dome rises." The 287-foot dome is the fourth highest in the world and one of the two domes of solid-stone construction in the United States. It is supported by four piers, each 80 feet high and 19 feet square, which in turn rest on huge monolithic concrete mats. Stone setters required 15 months to complete the masonry, the pieces of which ranged from a few pounds to 18 tons in weight. Above the capstone of the dome and accessible from within, a slender stone lantern, which rises 47 feet, affords an unexcelled viewpoint. The two-tone bronze doors at the main entrance are ornamented with a series of bas-relief panels depicting pioneer life. The interior is marked by the use of several tints and kinds of imported marbles. Throughout the structure lavish detail has been used. The high cost, OLYMPIA—POINTS OF INTEREST 1. Site of First Legislative Hall 6. Masonic Temple 2. Brenner Oyster Packing Plant 7. Thurston County Courthouse 3. Sylvester Park 8. Capitol Group 4. Old Capitol Building 9. Scientific Oyster Laboratory 5. Sylvester House

more than $7,000,000, inclusive of furnishings, was severely criticized by legislators and by their constituents as well. The Temple of Just1ce (open 0-5 weekdays, 2-4 Sun.), Capitol Way between nth and 12th Aves., is a severe rectangular structure with formal windows and ponderous walls. It contains the chambers of the State Supreme Court and the attorney general's office. In the basement is the State L1brary (open 9-5 Monday-Friday, 9-12 Saturday), with rare books, pioneer relics, and varied historical ma- terial. The State's first library, brought around the Horn in 1854, consisted of scientific, legal, and medical texts and fiction, which Gov- ernor Stevens, with a $5,000 grant from Congress, had selected. The present library comprises 100,000 volumes and extensive newspaper files. The State Law L1brary of 85,000 volumes is also in this building. The War Memor1al Monument, on the Capitol grounds at the head of the driveway, the work of Victor Alonzo Lewis, was unveiled in 1938. Funds for the monument were provided from the sale of State lands and from a Federal grant. The Governor's Mans1on (private), of Georgian design, occupies a wooded knoll at the rear of the capitol group. Simple and charming, with bright red-brick walls, trimmed with marble keystones above the windows and stone at the portals, it offers a pleasing contrast to the other buildings of the group. 9. The SCIENTIFIC OYSTER LABORATORY (open 9-5 work- days), foot of Howard St. off East Bay Drive, is an experimental sta- tion conducted by the State Department of Fisheries for the study of shellfish culture. The staff at present (1941) seeks a method of propa- gating Japanese oysters in Puget Sound to obviate the necessity for importing seed. Water from various localities is sampled weekly and kept at various temperatures while development of the seed is tested. Preceding these experiments, there was several years' study of the native Olympia oyster. Salinity, acidity, and nutriments in the water are continually changed and the effects recorded. In addition to the experiments with the oyster, several varieties of native clams are being studied. Young specimens are brought in and their shells marked with an emery wheel; then they are returned to the clam beds. Diggers who find these branded clams send them to the laboratory, and thus records of their growth can be charted; for, just as tree-rings indicate the age of a forest giant, so is the age of a clam shown by the rings on the shell. The clam may reach a ripe old age of 18 years if it is unmolested, but its chances of surviving more than 5 are negligible in regions where clam digging is carried on commercially. POINTS OF INTEREST IN ENVIRONS Oyster Beds, 5 m. (see Tour 2d). Priest Point Park on East Bay Drive, 1 m.; site of old Fort Nesqually, 14.6 m.; Nisqually Indian Reservation, 16 m. (see Tour Be). Tumwater, 1 m.; Millersylvania State Park, on Deep Lake Road 10 m. (see Tour &d).

Railroad Stations: King Street Station, 3rd Ave. S. and Jackson St. for Great Northern Ry. and Northern Pacific Ry.; Union Station, 4th Ave. S. and Jackson St. for Union Pacific R.R.; Southern Pacific R.R., and Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul & Pacific R.R. Bus Stations: Central Terminal, 8th Ave. and Stewart St. for North Coast Lines (Greyhound), Washington Motor Coach System, Union Pacific Stages, California Bus Lines, Renton-Bothell-Seattle Stage Lines Inc., and Suburban Transportation System; 3rd Ave. and Virginia St. Stage Terminal, for Diamond Stage Company, North Bend Stage Lines Inc., and Puyallup-Sumner Stages; 113 1st Ave. S. for Independent Stages Inc. Piers: (Alaska service): Alaska Steamship Co., foot of Cherry St.; Northland Transportation Co., foot of University St.; Alaska Transportation Co., foot of Union St. (Trans-Pacific Service): Smith Cove, Nippon Yusen Kaisya. (British Columbia service); Canadian Pacific R.R. dock, foot of Lenora St. Ferries to Puget Sound points, Colman Dock, foot of Marion St.; Lake Washington ferries, foot of E. Madison St. (Coastwise service): McCormick Steamship Co., foot of Main St.; Luckenback Steamship Co., foot of Jackson St. Airport: Boeing Field (county), Airport Way at S. city limits for United Air Lines, Northwest Airlines, Pan-American Airways to Alaska, and Canadian Airways, Ltd., charter service; taxi fare $1.55, 15 min. Taxis: 25c first quarter-mile; 10c each half-mile thereafter; extra passengers 10c. Rapid Transit: Trackless trolleys and motor busses. Fare 10c or three tokens for 25c. Traffic Regulations: Speed limit 25 m.p.h. except on designated arterials where 35 m.p.h. is allowed. Turns in either direction permitted at intersections except where signs prohibit; "stop" signs denote arterials. Watch street signs for parking limitations. Street Order and Numbering: Avenues run N. and S., streets E. and W.; even numbers on right side of thoroughfares going N. and E.; 100 numbers to the block; symbols such as NW., SE., etc., denote directions of outlying addresses. Accommodations: 83 hotels; auto and cabin camps and trailer racilities on adjacent highways; inns and hotels at near-by resorts charge higher prices dur- ing spring and summer; large conventions increase local rates. Information Service: Chamber of Commerce, 215 Columbia St.; Washington Automobile Club (AAA), 1109 Pine St.; Rainier NatM. Park Bureau, 416 Uni- versity St. Theaters and Motion Picture Houses: Repertory Playhouse, 4045 University Way; Moore Theater, 1928 2nd Ave.; Metropolitan Theater, 415 University St.; Cornish Theater, 710 E. Roy St.; Music Hall, 7th Ave. and Olive Way; Show- boat, foot of 15th Ave. NE. Occasional concerts, Meany Hall, University Cam- pus, and Civic Auditorium, 3rd Ave. and Mercer St.; 46 motion picture houses. Radio Stations: KEVR (1400 kc.); KIRO (710 kc.); KJR (1000 kc.); KOL (1300 kc); KOMO (950 kc.); KRSC (1150 kc.); KXA (770 kc). Athletic Fields: 43 parks, 46 playfields. Golf: Jefferson Park (municipal), 4100 Beacon Ave., 27 holes, 25c for 9; West Seattle Golf Links (municipal), 35th Ave., SW. and W. Genesee St., 18 holes, 25c for 9; Jackson Park (municipal), E. 137th and 10th NE., 18 holes, 25c


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2IO WAS H I N GTO N for 9; Queen Anne, 6th Ave. N. and Galer St., 9 holes, 25c; University (semi- public), on campus, 9 holes, 40c, 75c, and $1; and 10 others in environs. Tennis: Municipal courts at all playfields and the following parks: Volunteer, Woodland, Leschi, Mt Baker, Lincoln, Madron a, Cowen; free. Swimming: 10 municipal beaches, three saltwater and seven freshwater; Moore Hotel, 1928 2nd Ave., 27c; Crystal Pool, 2035 2nd Ave., adults 37c, children 27c; YMCA 41h Ave. and Madison St., adults 25c, children 10c; Alki Natatorium, 2617 Alki Ave., adults 37c, children 27c; YWCA, 5th Ave. and Seneca St., adults 25c, children 20c. Yachting: Queen City Yacht Club, 2715 Fairview Ave. N.; Seattle Yacht Club, 1807 E. Hamlin St. Riding: Boulevard Riding and Boarding Stables, E. 92nd and Victory Way; Gaylands Riding Academy, 7028 24th Ave. NE.; Overland Riding Academy, '375I_I7th Ave. NE.; Don Emerick Clearbrook Riding Academy, E. 140th and 17th NE.—average rate first hour $1, varies thereafter. Mountain View Riding and Boarding Stables, S. 126th and 4th Ave. SW., 50c per hour weekdays, 75c Sun. Hunting and Fishing: Hunting in near-by hills, marshes, and on Olympic Penin- sula; fishing in Puget Sound and adjacent lakes and streams; boats, guides, and complete equipment for hire in many parts of the city; information and licenses at fishing tackle stores. Baseball: Civic Stadium and playfields, 3rd Ave. and Harrison St., amateur only; Sick's Seattle Stadium, Rainier Ave. and Bayview St., Seattle Rainiers, Pacific Coast League. Annual Events: Seattle-Tacoma Yacht Cruise, Jan. 1; Annual Mining Institute, University Campus, 3rd week in Jan.; Salmon Pishing Derby Opening, Wash- ington State High School Basketball Championship tournament, Northwest AAU. Basketball Championship, Mar.; Washington-California Crew Regatta, Apr. (alternate years); All-City Flower Show, Woodland Park, 1st week in May; Boating Season Opens, Lake Washington, 1st Sat. in May; Summer Drama Fes- tival Opens Repertory Playhouse, June 15; Rose Show, Woodland Park, June; Fleet Week, Potlatch, July or Aug.; Air Show, Bon Odori, Japanese Harvest Festival, Aug.; Salmon Derby Finals, 1st Sun. in Sept.; Labor Day Parade, Labor Day; Dahlia Show, Woodland Park, Sept.; Intercollegiate football season opens, University of Washington, 1st week in Oct.; Northwest Artists' Annual Exhibition, Seattle Art Museum, Oct.; Armistice Day Parade, Nov. 11; Founder's Day, Nov. 13. SEATTLE (12 to 514 alt., 368,302 pop.), largest city of the Pacific Northwest, lies along Elliott Bay, on the east shore of Puget Sound, 128 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Built on seven hills, with intervening lowlands, it extends between Puget Sound and Lake Washington, which are joined by two canals and Lake Union. It is a city of steep descents and sudden turns, with streets that fall away inevitably to the water- side, lined with docks and moored ships of every description. Many bridges, ranging from the imposing concrete George Washington Mem- orial Bridge to small spans straddling the ravines, pass between the different parts of this city broken by water routes. Today, Seattle is one of the most important import-export cities of the United States. Its rapid growth is due in a large measure to its commercially strategic location and to its terminal improvements. Four large railroad systems connect Seattle with the East and with the Southwest; and its position in relation to the short "great circle" route to the Orient gives it a substantial advantage in shipping over other west coast cities. Also, Alaskan shipping centers in Puget Sound ports

because of the greater degree of safety provided by the protected Inland Passage, favored water route to Alaska from Seattle. Local industry has depended largely upon lumber and fish, with the processing of agricultural products next in importance. Already sub- stantially developed, manufacturing will probably expand and become more diversified as full use is made of the extensive electrical power projects now under construction in the State. Approaching Seattle from the east, the route passes through the semi-wilderness of the Cascade Mountains, with their bare peaks, virgin forests, and logged-off lands; then through the foothills region, char- acterized by stump ranches and small dairy and poultry farms; and finally, as the land levels out into rolling cut-over lands, runs through a region of small tracts, orchards, roadhouses, camping grounds, and suburban homes—until it enters the city limits, some seven miles from the central metropolitan area. If the approach is by water, the city is hidden from view by the pro- jecting headlands or is only partly visible until the boat enters Elliott Bay. Once within Alki and West Points, the striking panorama of the whole city emerges, its many hills rolling upwards from the crescent- shaped shoreline of the bay. From Smith Cove at the left, north of the metropolitan area, to Alki Point at the right, runs a saw-toothed rim of piers, docks, and wharves, broken only on the south by tide flats and the Duwamish River, which forks around the man-made Harbor Island. Beyond the water front and Alaskan Way, a broad commercial avenue, are the warehouses and the factories, and behind them the ragged skyline of the business area, marked by some eight or ten modern skyscrapers, which tower above the smaller business blocks. Past these are hills covered with residences and apartment houses, with here and there a wooded area where the precipitousness of the slope has so far prevented building. The city is impressively beautiful on a clear day, when the Olympics, with their serrated, snow-covered ridges can be seen to the west, and the Cascades, blue-green in the distance, are visible in the east and southeast, with the snowy cone of Mount Rainier looming above the other peaks of the range. At night, too, the city is beautiful, with its myriads of lights reflected in the waters; and even in the sombreness of rainy weather, when the slate-grey waters of the bay are broken by whitecaps and low clouds scud across the sky, the city does not lose its charm. The water front preserves the past of Seattle. In its cafes, quaint murals, the work of sign painters of an earlier day, still adorn the walls. Mirrors behind bars are encased in heavily carved wooden frames, and the shop signs of employment agencies and outfitters recall the heroic epoch of lumbering and the gold rush. The harbor was the embryo of Seattle, and to this day the city derives its character from the wharves and its people. Broad Alaskan Way is a long sweep of activity, which subsides but does not entirely cease during the early rush of the morning. Locomo-

tives noisily shunt their cars, and trucks rumble along the wide dock- lined street. Stevedores expertly load and unload slings swung by booms and squeaking winches. Tug boats whistle petulantly, and ferries push their way in and out of the slips. Occasionally, an airplane drones overhead and swoops down to a landing on the waters of the bay. From unostentatious docks and from piers longer than any in the country, vessels depart for Alaska and the Orient. And the seagulls drift out over the entire city, coming to rest everywhere, even on cornices and the spires of churches. Seattle seems to alter its nature with each change of perspective. Physically, its vistas seem constantly shifting, as its streets move swiftly from one plane to another. Here, one sees automobiles parked on roofs of houses built on the avenue below. Board sidewalks climb the older sections of the town, where fragile frame dwellings cling to the steeps above Lake Union and gaze down upon the towers of tall apartment hotels. And socially, too, Seattle is many-angled. For some it is a city of fashionable shops, theaters, motion picture shows, art gallaries, and modern hotels and restaurants. To others it is a market and manufac- turing center—and the educational and cultural capital of the State of Washington. For the mass of its employed population, it is a place where living standards are comparatively high, the environment pleasing, and the climate agreeably mild. For the itinerant and seasonal worker of logging camps, mills, canneries, and steamships, it is a city where he can hope to stretch his savings over the winter months until he lands a job when work picks up in the spring. Seattle is a town of many races and nationalities. The early settlers were largely of native stock, but as the city grew, Scandinavians and Finns were attracted by lumbering and fishing; Irish, Italians, and peoples from the Balkan Peninsula found employment in construction and railroads, and Germans, French, and English in the various serv- ice trades, the food industry, and the professions. Among the early- arrivals were also Chinese, Japanese, Filipinos, Hawaiians, and Negroes. Among cities of the Nation with a population of 300,000 or more, Seattle ranks third in the percentage of home ownership. As in other large communities, residence districts are distinctly differentiated here according to income groups. With the growth of the community the better homes have steadily shifted towards the outskirts of the city, particularly to the highlands along Puget Sound and to the shores of Lake Washington. Yet those areas formerly favored by the well-to-do— First and Capitol Hills to the east of the metropolitan area, and Queen Anne Hill, the highest in the city, which looms north of Smith Cove— have not been entirely abandoned; and within a few minutes drive from the civic center many fine houses with lovely gardens and spacious lawns are still to be seen. Scattered throughout the city are many pleasant districts inhabited by families of middle income. Free from congestion, five- to seven-room dwellings cover an unusual proportion of the city's space, and, owing to the moist and mild climate their tenants have heen able to surround

themselves with flowers, shrubs, trees, and grassy lawns. Cheap elec- tricity has helped to make these homes comfortable and up-to-date. Moderately priced apartment houses and hotels loom here and there among the low roofs of the cottages. Seattle also has its poorer districts and its slums and near-slums. In the industrial area of South Seattle, along the flats and the railroad tracks, in the sawmill district along the shore of the Lake Washington Ship Canal, and in the streets bordering on the metropolitan district are the habitations of the poor and underprivileged of Seattle. Many of these are slums, different in detail but not in character from those of the eastern cities and of Europe, crowded with unsanitary firetraps, some hastily constructed in the days immediately following the fire of 1889, others during the World War boom days. The rookeries and shacks immediately south of the business district house most of the city's Orientals; in the same area, rooming houses and cheap hotels provide lodging for large numbers of itinerant and seasonal laborers. Thousands of houseboats lie along the shores of Seattle's lakes, canals, and bays. Some, principally in the Lake Washington area, are com- modious floating villas, with hardwood floors, electric lights, frig- idaires, and oil burners. Others are fairly comfortable dwellings. The great majority of the water abodes are, however, substandard shacks, without equipment for sanitation, shakily constructed on the flats or on old pilings, where some float with the rising tide, then sink back to the muddy shallows. Today, low-cost housing units are being built to replace some of Seattle's slums, especially those of the Yesler Hill district, which has already been cleared for new construction. Only 90 years have passed since the time when the first small band of settlers dug clams along the beach and built their cabins on Alki Point. These pioneers came to Seattle from Illinois in a covered wagon train led by Arthur A. Denny. While the main group rested in Port- land, David Denny and John N. Low proceeded northward by land to Olympia, where they embarked on Puget Sound with Leander Terry and Captain Robert C. Fay on the Iatter's boat. On September 28, 1851, they sailed into Elliott Bay. Upon landing, they learned from Indians that a settler had taken a donation land claim a year before, near the mouth of the Duwamish River. Captain Fay and Low soon left, but Terry and Denny set to work building a cabin on the south headland of the bay. Soon Denny wrote to his brother: "Come as soon as you can. We have found a valley that will support a thousand families." Within two months, on November 13, the other members of the party, 5 families, consisting of 12 adults and an equal number of children, arrived from Portland on the schooner Exact. The group named the point on which they settled New York, probably in the hope that some day the settlement would become the metropolis of the West. Later, with a touch of humor, they added the word Alki, Chinook jargon for "by and by," and it is this latter name which today clings to the point where the pioneers first settled.

Scarcely were the cabins finished and the families established in their new homes when the little settlement made its initial venture into what was destined to become its major industry—lumbering. Early in 1852 the brig Leonesa, seeking a cargo of piling for the San Francisco market, anchored offshore. The load she picked up, 35,000 board feet of logs cut by the settlers from their claims, was the first shipment to leave Elliott Bay. The difficulty of getting this shipment aboard in open water con- vinced the settlers that better facilities for water transport were needed, and that the shallow, sandy beach where they had established them- selves was not suitable for the loading and unloading of ships. Accord- ingly, they set out to find some place where the shore sloped more steeply; and after sounding the water at various places (with Mary Denny's clothesline weighted with horseshoes), the Bells, the Borens, and the Dennys in February 1852, staked claims to the present site of the city, and named the new settlement Seattle after the friendly chief of the Duwamish Indians. Other settlers soon arrived. One of these, Dr. David S. Maynard, opened the first general store, and also made a trial shipment of salmon to San Francisco. This first venture in the fish business was a dismal failure, the salmon spoiling en route, and the commercial exploitation of this great natural resource had to await the development of better methods of preserving and speedier transportation to market. In 1852 Dr. Henry A. Smith took land near the north end of the bay on a cove which now bears his name, and where large piers for the Port of Seattle are located. In December of the same year, Thomas Mercer arrived from Illinois with the settlement's first horse, Old Tib, and a wagon; with these he provided the first express and milk delivery service. In the following year, on May 23, a plat of the "Town of Seattle" was filed with the Territorial government of Olympia by Boren, Denny, and Maynard. The lumbering industry in the community also took its next forward step, when Henry Yesler, from Portland, was given a tract of land along the south side of the new town, and, with the assistance of volunteer labor, built there the first steam sawmill on Puget Sound. Social life as well as work centered around the cook- house of the mill, which was used as an all-purpose meeting house, a jail, or a church, as the occasion demanded. Another store was started by Denny, and his clerk, Dexter Horton, began to accept money for safekeeping from trappers, loggers, and sailors; his banking consisted of placing the cash in individual sacks, each tagged with the owner's name, and burying them in his "safety deposit," a coffee barrel. In 1853 the Louisiana took a cargo of ship spars for China, the first shipment from Puget Sound destined for a foreign port. When in October 1853, the Reverend David E. Blaine organized the first church, the town comprised 8 houses, grouped around the mill, and the total population of the county was 170. The first school was opened in 1854, the min- ister's wife, Catherine E. Blaine, being employed as teacher; the school term was three months, and the salary was $65 a month.

The settlers had from the first received friendly treatment from Chief Seattle, and when Isaac L Stevens, first Territorial Governor, called the local bands together to a powwow at "The Point" (now Pioneer Square) and laid reservation plans before them, Chief Seattle, of the Duwamish and allied bands, proved agreeable to the proposals. Other bands, however, resented the imposition of reservations upon territory they regarded as their own, and in which they had always wandered at will. Rumors soon followed of Indian trouble among the Puyallup bands to the south, and outlying settlers were frightened into Seattle, where in 1855 two blockhouses were erected and preparations made for defense. In December, a few settlers on White River, and Lieutenant W. A. Slaughter were killed by the Indians. Then, on January 26, 1856, word came that Klickitats were on the warpath and had crossed the mountains to the shores of Lake Washington. At this news, the settlers flocked to the blockhouse at the foot of Cherry Street, where, with the aid of the guns of the United States sloop-of-war Decatur, they repulsed the attackers with the loss of but two men. This was the first and last Indian trouble in the immediate neighborhood of Seattle. The discovery of gold on the Fraser River in Canada, in 1858, started a stampede during which 20,000 men hurried northward through Seattle. The rush resulted in a slight gain in permanent population, and in the building of a blacksmith shop, a foundry, a saloon, a hard- ware store, and a dance hall. At the beginning of the sixties, Seattle was little more than a mill, a few stores, and some scattered houses. Its citizens were nevertheless determined that the town should be designated as the site of the University then proposed for the Territory. In addition to its educa- tional benefits, the University would stimulate real estate develop- ment, and increase the political prestige of the town. Through persistent lobbying in the Territorial legislature, Seattle succeeded in having itself chosen as the University city, and on a tract donated to the Territorial government and cleared by the townsfolk a modest wooden structure was built. In accordance with the classical tradition observed in schoolhouse architecture, the entrance had four Ionic columns. Around the building ran a white fence, designed, according to a con- temporary wag, "to keep the stumps from getting out of the yard." Asa Mercer, the new University's only instructor, canvassed the Puget Sound country in quest of students, offering young men $1.50 a cord for split wood, as a credit against tuition charges. The response was gratifying in point of numbers, but the pioneer University's study courses had to be adjusted to meet various educational levels, since only one student was discovered who qualified above high school grade. The first number of the Seattle Gazette (now the Post-Intelligencer), a four-page weekly, was issued by J. R. Watson in 1863 from a room in the Gem Saloon. In the same year Dr. Maynard opened the first local hospital. In the following year transcontinental telegraph connections were completed, and coal mines were opened at Coal Creek (later New-


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2l6 WASHINGTON castle), this development offsetting to some extent a slump in the lumber business. John W. Pennell started a squaw dance hall, the Illahee, in the outskirts of the town, where it flourished for a number of years, despite the condemnation showered upon it by the moralists of the community. As is usual in a frontier community, there was a scarcity of unmarried women. Of the 182 persons in the village at the beginning of the decade, 96 were bachelors. In 1864 Asa Mercer decided to intervene in this unhappy situation and went east to induce unmarried women to seek husbands in the frontier settlement. He succeeded in persuading 11 women of good family to return with him. Upon the arrival of the "Mercer Girls" on May 16, the single men of the town turned out "looking like grizzlies in store clothes and their hair slicked down like sea otters." A second venture, 2 years later, brought 46 additional women, 10 of them widows. Mercer himself married one of the group. A court order having dissolved the first incorporation of the city, Seattle was re-incorporated in 1869. In 1870 a census showed a pop- ulation of 1,107 persons. That year the town elected its first Mayor, Henry A. Atkins; and Dexter Horton's coffee-barrel evolved into the town's first formal bank, occupying its first brick building, erected on the site where the Dexter Horton Building stands today. In 1870, also, the Central School was opened on Third and Marion, with two teachers and more than 100 pupils. This school soon became so crowded that the younger pupils had to be sent home to await the building of a second room. The new schools were constructed in time to accommodate the enrollment of 480 in the next year. The Northern Pacific Railway, then under construction, was well on its way across the continent; and townfolk were hopeful that its terminus might be established at Seattle. With this expectation business doubled, population increased rapidly, valuable land, water-front track- age, $50,000 cash, and $200,000 in bonds were pledged in support of the venture. After months of negotiations and tense anticipation Seattle learned, however, that Tacoma had been selected as the terminal. Undaunted, the citizens of the town organized the Seattle & Walla Walla Railroad and Construction Company in 1873 and projected a line over Snoqualmie Pass. In 4 years the road had been extended to Newcastle, 12 miles away. Coal shipments quickly made the short line profitable. The inauguration, in 1875, of regular steamship service between Seattle and San Francisco also compensated to some extent for the inadequacy of rail transport. The seventies brought improved living conditions and more social diversions. Gas street lights were installed in 1874. The streets were still unpaved, except for occasional short sections of cobblestones; board walks, however, had been laid along most of the main streets. A con- temporary article on Seattle states: "It is a model pioneer city in its architecture—substantial comfort, rather than ostentatious display, being the object sought." School attendance, including that of the University, was increasing, the total enrollment at the end of the decade being

nearly 800. In 1877 an opera company from San Francisco received such enthusiastic welcome that two opera houses were constructed: the Watson C. Squire, in 1879, and the Frye, in 1880. The perform- ance of Emma Abbott at the opening of the Frye was a highlight in the cultural life of the town. At the time of the census of 1880, population had risen to 3,533- This decade saw considerable industrial development. A shingle mill was built with a daily output of 200 bundles, and the machine shop of Robert Moran, several forges, and a brewery were established. In 1882 a group of businessmen organized themselves into a body similar to a Chamber of Commerce. Suffragist groups worked vigorously and won a temporary victory in 1883. In the same year Seattle was finally linked with the Puyallup Valley by the Columbia and Puget Sound Railroad, and the event was celebrated with barbecues and salmon bakes. Speech makers toasted "Seattle—the largest town for its age in the world." Frank Osgood, a newcomer, imported four horsecars from Boston and laid tracks for the first city railway in the Territory. Frequently, one horse failed to make the pull on steep hills, and pas- sengers had to get out and push; later, an extra "helper" horse was added on steep grades. Courts had been established, but lynchings were still carried out, occasionally, by men who had been too long without the discipline of legal institutions. Violence also broke out in the neighborhood of Seattle against Chinese laborers who had been imported to work on the railroads and in mining camps, and who were left stranded when the lines were completed. These people worked for low wages, and during hard times other workingmen in the area saw in them a threat to their own scales of pay. Two years of agitation came to a head when mobs made an effort to deport the Chinese forcibly. Martial law was declared, and the Seattle Rifles, a forerunner of the National Guard, controlled the town for ten days. Eventually the antagonism subsided, as the Chinese were absorbed into industry and the service trades or moved on to other towns. Cultural and social activities continued to expand. In 1888 the Ladies' Library Association was instrumental in establishing a permanent public library. In the same year the Rainier Club was formed, the first club organized in the town for the sole purpose of recreation and social activity for men. The steady growth in population led to the estab- lishment of new newspapers and to the expansion through mergers of some of the older ones. The Times and the Press absorbed several of the smaller papers and strengthened their influence. Eventually, the Press itself merged with the Times, which already at that date was the spokesman for conservative and industrial interests. The Gazette continued to be the leading morning newspaper. Labor, too, set up its first press in the city in 1889, the local section of the Knights of Labor sponsoring the publication of a weekly newspaper, The Work- ingman.


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2l8 WA S H I N GTO N Towards the end of the 1880's, horse-drawn streetcars no longer satisfied the needs of the community, and in 1888 cable cars were introduced. During that year electric lighting was begun on a com- mercial scale, and streetcars, too, were electrified. The decade closed with the great fire of 1889. About 2:30 p.m., on June 6, a fire broke out in a cabinet shop at First Avenue and Madison Street. The blaze spread rapidly, and before midnight the entire business section of 50 blocks was consumed, despite the fact that aid was rushed not only from near-by Tacoma but from Olympia, and from Portland, Oregon, and Victoria, British Columbia, as well. The loss was estimated at $15,000,000. Approximately $100,000 was donated by other cities for relief work in the devastated community. Almost at once, the rebuilding of the city in brick and iron was begun, and during the next year more than $10,000,000 was spent in recon- struction. The new city that rose upon the ashes included 465 com- mercial buildings, 60 wharves and warehouses, an improved sewage system, and paved streets. Wooden structures were barred in the business zones. In 1890 the population of Seattle had risen to 42,800. The nineteenth century ended in a vast boom which overrode a number of temporary setbacks. Along the water front extensive ship- yards were built, while from the lumber camps in the forests money came rolling into Seattle for food and supplies, and a wide traffic in raw materials, timber, fish, and minerals, left the city for distant markets. Robert Moran, who had made his start with a small machine shop and had risen to the position of mayor of the city, now took into his hands the control of one of the largest shipyards in the port. The Great Northern Railway entered Seattle from Everett in 1893, provid- ing a new link with the East. The city made its initial venture into municipal ownership of public utilities by purchasing the Spring Hill water supply system. The metropolitan commercial area expanded northwards, and businessmen clamored for the removal of the Uni- versity from its downtown location; a site was selected on the shores of Lake Washington, and the cornerstone of the first of the new build- ings, Denny Hall, was laid in 1894. The depression that struck the industrial East in 1893 caused a slump in the lumber and shipping industries of the Puget Sound region. Many of those thrown out of work joined Coxey's march on Wash- ington in 1894, hut were stopped at Wenatchee by local law enforce- ment agencies. In 1896, the State was carried by Bryan and free silver; a Populist, John Rogers, was elected Governor. This same year saw the establishing of the Great Northern steamship line, which was operated until suspended because of monopoly charged by the Federal Government. Just before the turn of the century, an unexpected stroke of luck quickened vigorously the growth of the city. In 1897 the steamship Portland hove into port with some $800,000 worth of gold from the Yukon River district in Alaska. The news of "a ton of gold" brought a feverish stampede of gold seekers, and Seattle was advertised through-

out the Nation as the outfitting center and point of departure for the North Country. Seventy-four ships were launched between January and July. Old industries expanded and new ones sprang up to meet the demand for machinery, tools, camp equipment, clothing, and food- stuffs. By 1905 Seattle interests had control of 95 per cent of the total amount of Alaskan shipping. Saloons, dance halls, and gambling joints gathered in the coins of the departing and the gold dust of those who struck it rich. The census of 1900 gave the city a population of 80,671, nearly double the figure of 1890. In the same year the ^irst horseless carriage, an electric runabout, with a top speed of 20 miles an hour, appeared on the streets. Seattle, confident of its future, now took steps to extend its business district, cramped by the surrounding hills. The method of sluicing employed in Alaskan mining to remove hills caught the imagina- tion of engineers and real estate promoters, and workmen began to wash away the Jackson Street and Dearborn Street hills and part of Denny Hill. The loosened earth was used to fill in 1,400 acres of tideflats, making it available for factory sites. The venture was so successful that within the next 30 years 41,500,000 cubic yards of dirt were shifted. City traffic had become a problem with the increase of population and industry. Streets were widened and improved, and Stone and Webster, visualizing the future of the bustling city, consolidated the various street railways. Eager to establish Seattle as a shipbuilding center, businessmen and industrialists subscribed $100,000 to enable the Moran shipyards to submit the lowest bid for the construction of the U.S.S. Nebraska. The desire for municipal ownership of utilities grew in popularity, with the result that in 1901 the city added the Cedar River water- shed to its water system, and in the ensuing year installed a small gen- erating plant which laid the basis for the City Light Department. With this modest beginning, Seattle embarked on a municipal water and electric program which grew to proud proportions during the succeed- ing decades. The cultural life of Seattle also reached a new level during the early years of the twentieth century. With the aid of Carnegie funds, a large library was constructed of greystone (completed in 1905) to replace the small building burned in 1901. The first local symphony orchestra, later re-established under the direction of Henry Hadley, gave a concert in 1903 under the leadership of Harry West; and a string quartet of exceptional merit was organized by John Spargur. University enrollment grew rapidly, and new schools, notable among them the Cornish school of fine arts, were started. More than 100 churches and religious societies of many different denominations, in- cluding some Buddhist groups, made their appearance. The Children's Orthopedic Hospital began to operate in January 1907. The Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition in 1909 drew 3,750,000 per- sons to Seattle, and many of them stayed at least long enough to be counted in the census of 1910, which set the city's population at

237,I94- The city limits had been extended into the outlying dis- tricts and had come to include (in 1907) West Seattle, Ballard, and Columbia City and (in 1910) Georgetown—thus practically com- pleting the present boundaries of the city. Another transcontinental railroad, the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul, arrived in 1909, and in 1910 a branch line of the Union Pacific came in from Portland, both lines operating out of the newly-constructed Union Station. The Duwamish River channel was dredged to accom- modate ocean-going vessels, and water transport was further aided by the organization of the Port District by the county in 1911, and by the increase of terminals, wharves, and docks, and the digging of the Sound- to-Lake-Washington canal, 1911-16, which allowed boats to enter fresh water and be cleared of barnacles without lying at drydock. Seattle, with a population in excess of 200,000, was now a ranking city of the Pacific Coast. As in other modern cities, civic corruption and bitter political strife flowed through the seams of the growing structure. Labor was eager and restive, and numerous clashes occurred between employers and wage earners. The hall of the I.W.W. was raided in 1913 but the organization remained active, and labor unions increased in number and membership. The workingmen of Seattle helped to build sentiment resulting in the enactment of an 8-hour day law, but this was declared unconstitutional by the State Supreme Court. The World War carried Seattle's industrial boom to its peak. Twenty shipyards employed more than 40,000 men; commerce increased, as shipping was diverted from eastern ports because of the hazards of submarine attack; Government orders stimulated airplane construc- tion; lumber prices soared, and sawmills ran at top capacity; wages rose and unemployment all but disappeared. The sudden influx of workers into Seattle swamped its hotels and lodging houses, and led to the construction of thousands of makeshift buildings. In 1918, the city acquired control of the upper waters of the Skagit River and took steps to develop the hydroelectric potentialities of the Skagit. Another venture into municipal ownership was made at about the same time, when, apparently under the prodding of the War Industries Board, the city purchased the privately-owned street railway system at a war time price of $15,000,000. The end of the war was followed by a collapse in the lumber market, a drop in agricultural prices, the falling off or diversion of trade, and the closing down of the war industries. Unemployment and wage cuts led to labor unrest, which culminated in a five-day general strike, the first in the United States. More than 60,000 union members were involved in the walkout, which started on February 6, 1919. The authority of the strike committee and the self-discipline of the strikers prevented disorder, and there was little disruption of essential services. Negotiations led to the return of the workers to their jobs. The financial collapse of 1929 struck Seattle a hard blow, as it did all other cities of the country. The decline of the lumber industry cut off the trade coming from the small environing towns. Unemployment

became a persistent burden, of which the city was forced to carry a large share. Several major strikes occurred, including water-front strikes in 1934 and I93^), the timberworkers' strike of 1935, and the News- paper Guild strike of 1936. The labor movement gained in member- ship, and both the American Federation of Labor and the Congress of Industrial Organizations set up central labor councils. The unem- ployed formed leagues, and the old people turned to group action to obtain Government pensions. As usual, the impact of social and economic issues upon local politics led to spirited contests, frequently misunder- stood by outsiders. Though production and commerce still lag behind their capacities, Seattle shows considerable recovery and progress, despite the depres- sion. In 1936 water-borne commerce attained a tonnage of 6,307,265 tons, valued at $909,562,467. The city has one of the finest municipal power systems in the United States. Whatever the future may have in store for it, Seattle gives ample evidence that it will meet its destiny vigorously and with the assurance of triumph, alki, by and by. POINTS OF INTEREST 1. The SITE OF THE TERRITORIAL UNIVERSITY, Seneca St. between 4th and 5th Aves., is marked by a plaque at the Seneca St. entrance to the Olympic Hotel. The Metropol1tan Center, which replaced the University building and campus, comprises four city blocks (nine acres), including all buildings on both sides of 4th and 5th Aves., between Seneca and Union; it is said to be the first planned business district in the United States. The center was started in 1907, with the formation of the Metropolitan Building Company. Theaters, motion picture houses, the huge Olympic Hotel, office buildings, and the higher priced shops and salons are located in this area. Under an existing contract, the center with all improvements will revert to the University of Washington in 1954. 2. The CHILDREN'S FREE CREATIVE ART SCHOOL (open 9-12 Sat., Sept. to June), located on the third floor (3308) of the White Building, corner of 4th Ave. and University St., is one of the few free schools of art for children in the West. It was organized in 1928 by a group of women interested in the artistic education of chil- dren, under the auspices of the Music and Art Foundation, which also sponsors activities in music, literature, and drama. No formal instruc- tion is given, and the children are encouraged to express themselves freely. Exhibitions of pupils' work reflect the wide variety in the artistic insights of children. Scholarships to more advanced institutions are awarded to those who show exceptional talent. 3. The NORTHERN LIFE TOWER BUILDING (open 8:30-6 weekdays, 9-11 Sun., 25c), University St. and 3rd Ave., was com- pleted in 1929 and is built in setback style. Marble used in the con- struction of the building came from many sections of the world: France, Spain, Italy, Alaska, as well as Vermont, California, New York, and Tennessee; Texas supplied polished pink granite. The cavernous foyer

SEATTLE

is finished in golden tones. The tower on the twenty-seventh floor pro- vides a good view of the city. 4. The SEATTLE PUBLIC LIBRARY (open 9-9 weekdays; 2-9 Sun. and holidays), was founded in 1891. The central building, 4th Ave. between Madison and Spring Sts., was opened in 1906 with a grant of $220,000 from Andrew Carnegie. Under its roof are more than 500,000 volumes, with special divisions devoted to technology, art, and reference, and a periodical room with nearly 2,000 publica- tions, 33 of which are in foreign languages. More than 6,000 volumes in Braille are made available to the blind. Eight thousand books in French, German, Scandinavian, Russian, Italian, Jewish, and Oriental languages are on the shelves; and works on Alaska number in excess of 500. The library provides an information service, art exhibits, adult education assistance, and a children's department. Ten branch libraries are conveniently located throughout the city to serve the residential districts. 5. The UNITED STATES COURTHOUSE BUILDING occu- pies the entire block bounded by 5th and 6th Aves., and Madison and Spring Sts. It consists of ten floors, supplemented by two penthouses used as machine rooms for the elevators and air-conditioning systems. The building is constructed of concrete, reinforced with seismic steel, making it impervious even to violent earthquake disturbances. A gran- ite base and ceramic terra cotta encircle the building from the ground to a height of ten feet. In this new structure are housed the Federal Courts; the Circuit Court of Appeals; the United States Marshal's office and detention cells; the United States District Attorney and assistants, and a spacious circuit court library. A rifle range will be set up in the basement, sharing space with operating machinery and storage vaults. The 80-foot main entrance, encompassed by a terrace, enlivened by shrubbery and flowers, is on Fifth Avenue. Another entrance on Sixth Avenue leads directly to the second-floor offices. Smaller supplementary entrances are provided on Spring and Madison Streets. DOWNTOWN SEATTLE—POINTS OF INTEREST 1. Site of the Territorial Uni- versity 2. Children's Free Creative Art School 3. Northern Life Tower Build- ing 4. Seattle Public Library 5. United States Courthouse Building 6. City Light Building 7. County-City Building 8. Smith Tower Building 9. Pioneer Square 10. Site of the Seattle Fire of 1889 11. Colman Street Ferry Terminal 12. Ye Old Curiosity Shop 13. Aquarium 14. Pike Place Public Market 15. Chief Seattle Monument 16. Denny Park 17. St. James Cathedral 18. King County (Harborview) Hospital

The Federal Works Agency and the Public Building Administration of the Treasury department were entrusted with the planning, design- ing, and erecting of this structure. 6. The CITY LIGHT BUILDING (open 8-6 weekdays), 3rd Ave. between Madison and Spring Sts., was designed by Earl W. Morrison and completed in 1935. It is the property of the city and contains the offices and departments of City Light. The building is modern in architecture and interior decoration; in the foyer a frieze in chrome by Albert G. Booth and John W. Elliott depicts the history of artificial lighting. On exhibition in the sales room is a diorama by artists of the WPA art project depicting Diablo Dam (see Tour 8b), to which City Light sponsors tours, tickets for which may be purchased in this building. 7. The COUNTY-CITY BUILDING (open 8-5:30 weekdays), at NE. corner of 3rd Ave. and Jefferson St. (Prefontaine Place), was built in 1916 and enlarged in 1930. The conventional ten-story concrete structure, with medallioned frieze and projecting cornice, is but a few feet from the site of King County's first courthouse built in 1860. It houses both city and county offices, 15 superior courtrooms, and a county jail. At the southwest corner of the building is a drinking fountain in a huge rock, upon which is a plaque commemorating the defeat of the Klickitat Indians in 1856 and the participation of Seattle men in the Spanish-American War. 8. The SMITH TOWER BUILDING, NE. corner 2nd Ave. and Yesler Way, 42 stories, is the tallest building in Seattle. It was erected in 1914 and designed by Gaggin and Gaggin, New York City architects. On the 35th floor is the Ch1nese Room (open 8-10; adm. 25c; guide), a reproduction of a Chinese temple. The room is decorated with Cantonese furniture, bronze temple lanterns, and ornamental panels of porcelain and hand-carved teak. The Wishing Seat, bearing the inscription in Chinese: "Long life and good luck," is supposed to bring marriage to anyone who sits in it. Surrounding the Chinese Room is the Observat1on Balcony, which offers a splendid view of the city. Above are seven additional stories, which may be reached by stairs. 9. PIONEER SQUARE, 1st Ave. and Yesler Way, is the site of Yesler's mill, where the life of Seattle centered in the early days. Around the mill were the cookhouses, Dr. Maynard's store, the first in the settlement, and the Conklin House, better known as Mother Damnable's, after its shrewish proprietor who drew her crowds with good cooking and frontier entertainment. In this neighborhood three men were lynched by a mob in 1872, and it was here that the Seattle Rifles sub- dued a mob attempt to deport 100 Chinese in 1886. The "square" is a small triangular plot, graced with a green pavilion above the entrance to a men's lavatory, and surrounded by flophouses, pawnships, beer parlors, loggers' employment agencies, offices of quack doctors, and outfitters for Alaska and the lumber camps. Still known as the Skidroad, the district is thronged with men of all races and occupa-

tions—lumberjacks in town for a few weeks, fishermen back from Alaska, sailors on leave or in search of a ship, wandering farm laborers, boys far from home, drifters, cripples, beggars. Indians from out of the city make a habit of meeting at the square. Knots of men form around arguments concerning politics, religion, economics; and street speakers and the Salvation Army carry on their work. Until 1939, a 140-year-old totem pole, brought to Seattle in 1889, stood in the square. Fire and the inner deterioration of the wood ne- cessitated its removal. It served as a model for a new pole carved by Indians of Alaska from a log furnished by the Forestry Department, and set up on the site of the old one. 10. The SITE OF THE SEATTLE FIRE OF 1889, on 1st Ave. between Madison and Marion Sts., which started in the cabinet shop of Clairmont and Company, is now occupied by the Federal Office Building, nine stories high and designed by Federal engineers. The 13th Naval District headquarters, the weather bureau, and various other governmental agencies are housed here. 11. The COLMAN STREET FERRY TERMINAL, Alaskan Way and Marion St., from which boats leave for Puget Sound points, is a ferry slip remodeled by Loveless and Fay, architects, in modern style, with horizontal lines accentuating the length of the structure and an interior finished in pressed wood paneling with boxwood trim. Com- pleted in 1937 the 550-foot building is supported by pilings and painted in aluminum. The terminal lies in the midst of a typical stretch of Seattle water front. To the south is Pier 2, regular point of arrival and departure for boats of the Alaska Steamship Company; Alaskan sourdoughs and cheechakos (tenderfeet of the North) like to frequent this place. To the north are piers of the Northern Pacific, at which a freighter is usually to be seen, and the fireboat station, with its two modern firefighters. 12. YE OLD CURIOSITY SHOP (open 9-5 weekdays), at the Colman Ferry Dock, exhibits for sale a rich collection of curios from all parts of the world. Opened in 1899, the shop has the character of a museum, and visitors may linger as long as they please without being pressed to buy. The proprietor, J. E. Standley, though more than 80 years old, still (1941) plays an active part in the shop and personally welcomes visitors. Among the many oddities in the exhibition are shrunken heads of Ecuador Indian warriors, a rare duckbill platypus, tiny carved elephants one-thirty-second of an inch in size, a giant 13- foot crab from the Yellow Sea, a Chinese dog of blue vitreous porcelain estimated to be 800 years old, the Lord's Prayer engraved on the head of a pin, and a snail weighing 67 pounds. The jaw bones of a whale are mounted outside the shop, and fossil ivory tusks and Indian relics are prominent items of the display. 13. The AQUARIUM (open 10-10 daily, adults, 10c; children, 5c), Pier 3, Alaskan Way, foot of Spring St., displays native sea plants and animal life in glass tanks containing continuously flowing sea water.


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t SEATTLE I: polars of attai-war 1-1

Octopuses, tube worms, starfish, flying clams, and a hundred other varieties of marine and plant life are in the exhibition. 14. The PIKE PLACE PUBLIC MARKET, at 1st Ave. and Pike St., extending three blocks to the north and two blocks to the west, is operated jointly by the city and the Pike Place Public Market Com- pany, Inc. It was organized in 1907 to enable the small truck farmer to sell his goods directly to the public. Originally housed in a single building, the market has been expanded and improved so that today it is one of the leading markets in the country, both in size and in modernity of equipment. The stalls are assigned by drawing lots daily, thus preventing any stallkeeper from obtaining a permanent advantage over the rest. Part of the market is leased to sellers of meat and staple commodities. Japanese, Italians, and Slavs predominate among the truck gardeners. The bright array and fresh odors of the foods, the hawkers' cries, the variety of racial and national types, and the bustle and excite- ment under the electric lights, have made the market famous for its color as well as for the food it offers. 15. The CHIEF SEATTLE MONUMENT, center of Denny Place, at the intersection of Denny Way, Cedar St., and 5th Ave., is a bronze statute by James A. Wehn, representing the Indian Chief with hand outstretched in a gesture of peace and friendship. The memorial, sponsored by two local organizations, the Tillicums (meaning "friends") and the Founders Committee of Seattle Pioneers, was begun in 1908 and unveiled in 1912. 16. DENNY PARK, at the intersection of Battery St., Denny Way and Dexter Ave., is on the site of the city's first park, donated in SEATTLE—POINTS OF INTEREST 19. Civic Auditorium Group 20. Port of Seattle, Smith Cove Piers 21. Fort Lawton 22. Lake Washington Ship Canal Locks 23. Fishing Fleet Harbor 24. Ballard Bridge 25. George Washington Memorial Bridge 26. Woodland Park 27. Sand Point U. S. Naval Air Station 28. University 29. Repertory Playhouse 30. University of Washington Arboretum 31. Volunteer Park 32. St. Marks Cathedral 33. Temple De Hirsch 34. United States Marine Hos- pital 35. Lake Washington Bridge 36. Sick's Seattle Stadium 37. Seward Park 38. Boeing Field 39. Boeing Aircraft Plant 40. West Seattle Municipal Golf Links and Recreational Centers 41. Lincoln Park 42. Alki Point 43. Fisher Flouring Mills Com- pany Plant 44. Frozen Fish Museum

1884 by David Denny. The original tract of five acres also included a cemetery, until the final leveling of Denny Hill was begun in 1928. Remains of the pioneers buried there were removed to Lakeview ceme- tery, adjoining Volunteer Park. A cupola from the old grade school built on the hill near the park, is preserved as a historical memento in the present park. 17. The ST. JAMES CATHEDRAL, 9th Ave. at Columbia St., was built in 1907. The twin, green-domed towers rise 150 feet above the street. Cruciform in shape, the Cathedral is in Italian Renaissance style, with rich stained glass windows and a delicately carved reredos. The four-manual pipe organ has more than 80 sets of pipes. The sur- rounding Church properties house the Chancery and private school. 18. The KING COUNTY (HARBORVIEW) HOSPITAL, 9th Ave. and Jefferson St., opened in 1931, is a 12-story setback structure, designed by Thomas, Grainger, and Thomas. Clinics, dispensary, and X-ray facilities are provided free of charge to those unable to pay. This unit of the hospital contains 394 beds and a nurses' training school, affiliated with the University of Washington; it serves from 500-10-700 out-patients daily. All but the resident physicians serve without remuneration. 19. The CIVIC AUDITORIUM GROUP, Mercer St. at 3rd Ave. N., was built in 1928 and includes the Ice Arena, Auditorium, American Legion Hall, recreation field, and grandstand. The Ice Arena features skating and hockey; and the Auditorium, boxing and wrestling matches, conventions, concerts, and public meetings. The recreational field is used by high school athletic teams and by other community organizations sponsoring athletic tournaments. 20. PORT OF SEATTLE, SMITH COVE PIERS, on W. Gar- field St., between 15th Ave., W. and 22nd Ave., W., include four piers, two of which (piers 40 and 41 of the Port of Seattle) are among the largest pier-type terminals in the world. Twelve vessels the size of the Queen Alary could berth at the terminal and still leave room for three or four smaller vessels. On Pier 40, which is 2,530 feet long, are 7 transit sheds, a derrick, and a fumigating plant; the pier was built in 1913 at a cost of $1,717,000. Pier 41, built in 1920 at a cost of $2,811,000, is 2,544 feet long and 367 feet wide with 2 transit sheds and 8 tracks of the Great Northern Railway; it is used for Oriental ships and cargoes. A great warehouse for storage of Alaska canned salmon, with a capacity of more than 2,000,000 cases, and a municipally-owned grain elevator are located at the terminal. 21. FORT LAWTON, the 640-acre Army reservation on Magnolia Bluff overlooking Puget Sound, was established in 1897 and a year later named for Major General Henry W. Lawton, an American officer killed in the Philippines. A half million dollars have been spent on improving the reservation, which now includes rifle, pistol, and long distance firing ranges, powder magazines, a cemetery, warehouse, and nine-hole golf course. The fort grounds have room for troop maneuvers,

eight barracks, accommodations for 600 men and officers, a post hospital and headquarters. Fine views of Puget Sound, Mount Rainier, and the Olympic Moun- tains are offered from drives encircling the parade grounds. A road winds down to the beach below and to West Po1nt L1ghthouse, built in 1881. Once a crude wooden structure with a lighting system consisting of fish- or whale-oil-burning lamps, the lighthouse is today (1941) of the most modern type, with a flashing, or occulting, electric light, showing alternate red and white as it rotates, and with a com- bined candlepower of 17,000. 22. LAKE WASHINGTON SHIP CANAL LOCKS, 32nd Ave. NW. and W. 54th St., are located one and one-quarter miles from the western end of the eight-mile Lake Washington Canal which con- nects Lake Washington, Lake Union, and Puget Sound. The canal and locks were completed in 1916. Their capacity is exceeded on this continent only by the Panama Canal locks. One lock is 80 feet wide, the other 30 feet. Vessels are raised and lowered from 6 to 26 feet, requiring 8 minutes in the larger lock and 4 in the smaller. The locks are operated 24 hours daily, and have served as a passage for more than 3,000,000 tons of freight and 1,000,000 passengers in a single year. Cl1pper Sh1p St. Paul (open g-6 daily; adm. 10c), berthed at the Government Locks, the last of a great fleet of trading clipper ships which came around Cape Horn, was built in 1874 at Bath, Maine. The St. Paul was notorious as a "hell ship," whose sailors were usually shanghaied. Today, it houses a marine museum containing ships' models and an aquarium. 23. FISHING FLEET HARBOR, at 15th Ave. W. and W. Thur- man St., on Salmon Bay below Ballard Bridge, is the winter port for Coast and Alaska fishing boats. Over 200 ships are repaired here and their gear put in order each fishing season. Among these are two codfish schooners, Wawama and Azalea, which are more than half-a-century old. 24. BALLARD BRIDGE, on 15th Ave. W. and 15th Ave. NW., extending from Emerson Street to Ballard Way, spans the Lake Wash- ington Ship Canal. It has a concrete deck on steel-girder spans with a 42-foot roadway sufficient to accommodate two-way traffic. Walks for pedestrians on each side are two feet wide. A steel bar railing with cement posts protects the walks along the entire 3,081 feet of the bridge. The bascule span in the center of the bridge is capable of rising suf- ficiently to permit the passage of the largest steamer afloat. The bridge stands 50 feet above water level, permitting ordinary boats to pass under- neath without resorting to the bascule. 25. The GEORGE WASHINGTON MEMORIAL BRIDGE, Aurora Ave., between N. 36th St. and Hillside Place, generally known as the Aurora Avenue Bridge, was built by the State of Washington, and dedicated in 1932. Of deck cantilever type, it is 2,103 Teet in length and 135 feet above high water. More than 25,000 vehicles cross it daily.

26. WOODLAND PARK, between Phinney Ave., N. 50th St., N. 59th St. and Greenlake Way, is one of Seattle's largest parks. In its 188 acres are baseball diamonds, tennis courts, playgrounds, and picnic and tourist accommodations. The War Garden, in the southwest sec- tion of park, is dedicated to Spanish-American War veterans; east of the War Garden are the Rose Gardens, laid out around a lily pond. In the center of the park is the Hard1ng Memor1al, erected in 1923. The Zoolog1cal Gardens, (open 8-7 daily), contain 200 buildings, cages, and dens, housing 1,407 animals and 277 species of birds. Green Lake, northeast of the park, is 250 acres in area; on its borders are two municipal bathing beaches, with bathhouses, a fieldhouse, tennis court, and playgrounds. 27. SAND POINT U.S. NAVAL AIR STATION (open daily), at the city limits, E. 65th St. and Sand Point Way, covers the sand spit near the northern end of Lake Washington, and forms part of the defenses of the 13th Naval District. At various intervals during the year, air shows are put on at the field. At the entrance gate, Sand Point Way north of E. 70th St., is the 20-foot granite Round-the- World Fl1ght Memor1al to the flyers who left Sand Point Aviation Field on March 17, 1924, to make the first successful flight around the world. UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON 28. Largest University in the Pacific Northwest, the University of Washington is situated in northern Seattle on 582 acres lying between 15th Avenue Northeast and Lake Washington, and East 45th Street and Lake Union. Wide rolling lawns, formal beds of flowers and shrubs, and a variety of native trees afford an unusually beautiful setting for the 66 college buildings. The blue waters on the rim of the campus have given activities there an amphibious character—along the shore are a canoe house, crew quarters, oceanographic laboratories, and a showboat theater. In the distance the Cascades are visible and far-off Mount Rainier. A movement for the establishment of a University in this region began just before Washington Territory was created by separation from Oregon Territory. The first recorded proposal was made in 1852 by the Columbian, Olympia's pioneer newspaper: "The people north of the Columbia expect soon to have a territory of their own, we want a university here." In response to the urging of Governor Stevens, the first legislature, in 1854, memorialized Congress for the necessary land grants, and two townships were allotted. Despite con- siderable division of opinion as to the best site, the final choice was Seattle, where ground was secured in 1860. To meet the cost of clearing the land, still heavily wooded, the Con- gressional grant was sold for $3,000. With this money, construction was begun at once. The single white building, with four classical pillars at the entrance, was still unfinished when instruction began on Novem-

ber 4, 1861, with a curriculum "offering everything from ABC's to the classics." Lack of funds, however, caused several suspensions between 1867-77; and difficulties arose again in 1882, when the legislature failed to pro- vide the necessary financial aid—the school was sustained for two years by a $4,000 gift from Henry Villard, promoter of the Northern Pacific Railway. Subsequent legislatures, however, regularly voted funds for the institution, which expanded rapidly. In the meantime Seattle's business area was steadily closing in on the University, and agitation began for its removal to a new site. One hundred and sixty acres were acquired west of Lake Washington, and this tract was later enlarged to its present size. In 1894, construc- tion of Denny Hall was begun and was completed the following year. The teaching staff, however, as in later years, lagged behind the needs of the institution. It is reported that President Charles W. Eliot, of Harvard, on visiting the University asked a faculty member what chair he held. "I teach astronomy, botany, physics, zoology, and . . ." the professor began, at which point Eliot interrupted, "Oh, I see! You don't occupy a chair; you occupy a settee!" Expansion and enrollment increased steadily as the population and the wealth of the State grew. In 1909 the buildings of the Alaska- Yukon-Pacific Exposition reverted to the University. During the presidency of Dr. Henry Suzzalo (1915-26), an extensive building program was initiated. It began with the erection of the Home Economics building in 1913, in the Tudor-Gothic style popular in the first decades of the twentieth century; and during the succeeding years numerous structures were added, designed under the same influence. The Chem- istry Building, constructed in 1938-9, marked a shift to a more modern, functional style of architecture. Today (1941) the University has an enrollment during the regular term of more than 11,000; and a faculty of about 450 professors and instructors, as well as about 250 fellows who combine teaching with graduate study. The summer term, always popular because of the climate of the Puget Sound region, attracts over 3,000 students. Dr. Lee Paul Sieg, formerly of the University of Pittsburg, is the present (1941) President of the University, which is governed by a board of seven regents appointed by the Governor. An exceptionally wide range of study is offered. Twenty-six depart- ments in liberal arts and science offer degrees. There are also schools in architecture, the fine arts, the social sciences, home economics, journal- ism, music, and nursing. The College of Fisheries, the only one of its kind in the United States, is one of the two in the world to award a degree in this field. Undergraduate and graduate work is offered in mining, pharmacy, law, engineering, forestry, economics, and business administration. A 1938 innovation is the air-training course for men and women, introduced at Washington and other colleges through the Civil Aeronautics Authority. Eightv hours of ground training arc combined with 35 of dual and solo flying in sea and land craft.

The University has made many valuable contributions to the cul- tural, scientific, and industrial life of the State. Excellent creative work has come from the Colleges of Liberal Arts and Fine Arts. Orchestra, band, and vocal concerts, frequently presented without charge, dance drama, and popular stage productions have enriched the cultural life of the community. The social science departments have done notable work in such fields as investigating income levels and juvenile delin- quency, analysing housing needs, and studying Indian cultures and lan- guages. The University has also provided special public services: psy- chological testing and guidance are made available to children of the State without charge at the Institute for Child Development, admin- istered under the Bailey and Babette Gatzert Foundation for Child Welfare; the speech division of the Department of English conducts clinics throughout the State for the correction of speech defects; the Law School, in conjunction with the Seattle bar, conducts a free Legal Aid Bureau; and a Bureau of Governmental Research furnishes con- sultation to cities and counties on their administrative problems. In industrial research and conservation, the College of Mines and the Schools of Fisheries, Forestry, and Engineering have made signif- icant contributions. Experimental work in forestry, conducted at the 2,000-acre Pack Demonstration Forest, includes the improvement of methods of fire prevention and of soil and timber conservation. The College of Mines devised a waste-elimination process in coal washing, and discovered new uses for local sand and fire clay. An improved gas- making machine and a paper-preserving process were developed by the Department of Chemistry. The School of Fisheries and the Department of Biology have introduced new varieties of oysters and new methods of oyster culture and are doing valuable work in the conservation and propagation of fish. A number of co-operative and self-help ventures have been organized by University students, about 50 per cent of whom work for their schooling. The Students' Co-operative Association, started in 1933, controls 9 houses, grouped in 5 units, with a yearly membership averag- ing 300. The University Bookstore is owned and operated by the Associated Students of the University of Washington. CAMPUS TOUR The main entrance to the campus is at 15th Ave. NE. and East 40th Street. Auto roads also enter the grounds through 17th Ave. NE. or 22nd Ave. NE.; from the east through Montlake Boulevard and Stadium Way; or from the southwest through East Pacific Street; there are many footpaths on every side. At the main entrance, a large map of the campus stands between uprights. (Maps are also provided in the University catalogues and bulletins.) Straight ahead, the Henry Suzzalo Memor1al L1brary, (open 7:45 a. m. to 10 p. m. Mon. to Fri.), set at a diagonal, dominates

the campus. The building, named for a former president of the Uni- versity, represents the most consistent application of Gothic style on the University grounds. As indicated by the miniature model displayed in the lobby, the library is still to be completed by the addition of a tower and another wing. Its broad steps are a focus of campus life for students from the scattered buildings of upper campus and lower campus. Inside are almost 450,000 volumes, including 5,000 items of Alaska, among which are many rare Russian manuscripts; 80 volumes of Italian plays published before the fifteenth century; 6,000 works on pedagogy; extensive material on fisheries. The Northwest Room is now being used for the preparation of the Union Catalog of the Pacific Northwest Bibliographic Center. Stacks, directly connected with this room, hold the library's outstanding collection of Pa- cific Northwest Americana. In the room, map murals by Paul M. Gustin and John T. Jacobsen depict highlights of Northwest history and North American exploration. James M. Wehn of Seattle designed the window medallions, which represent seals of the Hudson's Bay Company, the Provisional Government, and Washington Territory. The library lies midway between the upper campus, home of the liberal arts, and the lower campus with its scientific and technical schools. On the upper campus, the main concentration of buildings is the Quadrangle, begun in 1913 and not yet complete. Its southern corner is formed by Condon Hall, just across from the library, and named for a former dean of the law school, which it houses together with an excellent law library. Adjoining Condon at right angles is the Soc1al Sc1ence Bu1ld1ng, newest unit of the quadrangle. It is a duplicate in appearance of Commerce Hall, which, with adjoining Ph1losophy Hall, forms the western corner of the quadrangle. The other angles are occupied by Home Econom1cs Hall and Educat1on Hall; the latter contains the administrative offices as well as the school of education and the art department. Along the corridors of Home Economics Hall, glass cases present changing displays of fine and applied arts, including porcelains and textiles. In the textile laboratory on the third floor is a Fade-ometer, a delicate machine designed to test the durability of textile dyes. In the basement of this building is the university commons, cafeteria serving students and public (open week- days). Southeast of the quadrangle is the Mus1c Hall, a large white frame building, home of University presidents until 1932, when the late Edwin Ames turned over his mansion in the Madison Park dis- trict for that purpose. Mr. Ames also bequeathed a trust fund to bring visiting scholars to the University. Most conspicuous in the eastern periphery of campus buildings is the new brick Health Center overlooking Lake Washington. Here students receive medical care for a small annual fee. Next to it on the south is the long low Faculty Club of dark stained wood.

North of the Music Hall lie Lew1s Hall and Clark Hall. Clark Hall now serves as a student union building, housing the Associated Students, Associated Women Students, Dean of Women, University employment service, and fraternity councils. In the basement is a coffee shop operated by the University commons. Lewis Hall is occu- pied by the University publications and the extension service. Before Lewis Hall stands the Wash1ngton Elm, grown from a slip of the, Washington Elm, Cambridge, Massachusetts, under which Wash- ington took command of the Continental Army. When the Cambridge elm fell, a slip was sent to Harvard University and planted near the original site in 1931. Two other slips were set on the capitol grounds at Washington, D.C. and at Olympia, and another has been planted in the arboretum. Carrying out the Tudor Gothic architecture of the quadrangle build- ings are two recently built structures to the north: the Women's Gym- nas1um and the Women's Res1dence Halls, with accommodations for 300. West of the women's dormitory stands the square wooden Ch1mes Tower, gift of Alden J. Blethen, early editor of the Seattle Times. The bells are rung by George Bailey, a blind musician, who for many years since his graduation from the University has given daily recitals. A path from the chimes tower leads to the mushroom-like Observa- tory (usually open clear nights during the school year)\ built in 1895 of Tenino stone in Romanesque revival style, it contains a six-inch tele- scope, a transit for measuring sun time, and a master clock controlling all others on the campus. The path then enters Memor1al Way, which, flanked by two pillars commemorating University students lost in the World War, bisects a wooded area at the northern edge of the campus. Along the southern end of Memorial Way, three buildings, older and more individual in style than the others, still hold their own. His- toric Denny Hall, oldest building on the campus, presides in mellowed dignity over its sweep of green lawn, carrying out in slate-roofed gray stone the pattern of a Francis I chateau. The only inconsistent detail is the cupola which roofs the original Denny Bell, brought around the Horn in 1862 for the first University building. This bell called out the Seattle Rifles at the time of the anti-Chinese riots in 1886 and sounded the alarm for the fire of 1889. It is rung now but once a year, on Homecoming Day. On the top floor is an extensive Drama L1brary financed by college plays. Southwest of Denny, across a maze of formal shrubbery, rises the oval bulk of Parr1ngton Hall, suggesting a pink-iced cake. It is screened from the street by a picturesque grove of madrona trees, whose glossy green leaves and roan-colored trunks border the campus at its western edge. Formerly Science Hall, the structure some ten years ago was turned over to the English Department and renamed for the de- partment's most illustrious figure, the late Vernon L. Parrington, whose

sudden death in England in 1929 followed closely on his winning the Pulitzer prize for his critical history of American letters (see Litera- ture). On the top floor is the Walker-Ames Room, lined with the books of Edwin Ames, and given over to upper class students for study and lounging. It contains a Bust of Shakespeare, executed by an artist of the Federal Art Project. Imbued with associations is the ivy-covered tan-brick building with its apron of steps which flanks the main campus entrance to the left— Meany Hall. Serving as an assembly and concert hall, it was named for the late Edmond S. Meany, history professor who came to represent the pioneering traditions of the University. Oil paintings of Professor Meany and others, by Morgan Padelford, alumnus, hang in the lobby. The basement contains the University broadcasting studio, connected by direct wire with all Seattle stations, which carries a variety of pro- grams throughout the college year. In the stone court to the rear of Meany Hall stands the George Wash1ngton Statue, a bronze by Lorado Taft, unveiled at the Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition. Services are held here annually on February 22. Just south of Meany Hall the bronze Edward Gr1eg Bust, by Finn H. Frolich of Seattle, presented to the University by the Association of Norwegians of the Pacific Northwest and Alaska, is mounted on a granite shaft. The small windowless brick building beyond the Washington monu- ment is the Horace C. Henry Art Gallery (open 12:30-5 week- days; 2-5 Sun.). Mr. Henry presented the building, together with his collection of nineteenth- and early-twentieth-century paintings in oils and water colors. Other rooms house a succession of traveling exhibits, varied by student work. Friezes, niches, and stone figures symbolizing Egyptian, Chinese, Greek, and European culture, were carved by Dudley Pratt of the University art faculty. Outpost of the lower campus, the old library building, now the Wash1ngton State Museum, (open 8 a.m.-6 p.m. weekdays; 2-6 p.m. Sun.), stands to the east of the present library. Another survival of the A-Y-P Exposition, commemorated by a plaque on a boulder near by, it is a pillared building in baroque classic. The Ma1n W1ng holds a comprehensive collection of Northwest Indian material, including models of primitive Indian villages done by the Federal Art Project. Long war canoes are mounted in the center of the room, and one especially large one takes the weather on the grounds outside. To the left of the room are cases of geology specimens; to the right are collections of North American animals and birds. The Alaska Room, at the rear of the stairway, features totems and house posts, as well as clothing and implements used by northern tribes. On the stairway landing is an Egyptian mummy. The second floor contains Australian, Melanesian, Malayan, and Polynesian exhibits. In a separate wing is the Or1ental Room, lined

with exquisite examples of Chinese porcelain, jewels, and household furnishings. Japanese art is represented by the Shoinzukuri, a set of rooms in the eighteenth-century style of the Tokugawa period, presented by the International Society for Cultural Relations of Japan. The inner- most room, or tokonoma, has walls of translucent ricepaper traced with a gold and silver design of clouds and mist. In an alcove stands the Ramage Press, on which our first newspaper, the Columbian, was printed at Olympia. At the head of Ra1n1er V1sta, which divides the lower campus on a direct line with distant Mount Rainier, are the twin science buildings, Phys1cs Hall and Johnson Hall. The latter contains the Se1s- mograph (visitors apply at Room 104). Below lies Geyser Bas1n, a circular pool which has recently acquired a stone basin, having been known to generations of students as reed-grown, wooden-walled Frosh Pond. Southward the vista leads past the Sylvan Theater, a terraced glade containing the four white columns from the original University building. Here are two bronze plaques, one of Edmond Meany presented by the class of 1885, the other of Lafayette, a gift of the State's French colony. Facing Geyser Basin is Bagley Hall, the new Chemistry and Pharmacy Building, simpler in manner than the prevailing Tudor Gothic. Its name was taken from an old building flanking the campus entrance to the right, and now renamed Phys1ology Hall. The lobby of the present Bagley Hall contains an exhibit of chemicals in industry. Directly across the water from Bagley is another red-brick structure, Guggenhe1m Hall, built with a grant from the Guggenheim Founda- tion, home of the schools of civil, mechanical, and aeronautical engineer- ing. Electrical engineering is still housed in the old building to the south, Eng1neer1ng Hall. Immediately behind Guggenheim Hall is a small box-like brick W1nd Tunnel. Built partly with Works Prog- ress Administration funds, it is the largest tunnel in any American edu- cational institution. Two 15-foot, 7-bIade propellers, driven by powerful motors, force cooled air through the two rings of the tunnel at a velocity of 250 miles per hour to test airfoils for aircraft design. At the south end of the campus, on either side of Rainier Vista, are M1nes Hall, containing a United States Bureau of Mines, and Anderson Hall, the forestry building, named for its donor, Mrs. Alfred H. Anderson, and her late husband, a pioneer lumberman. Forestry students spend one-quarter of each year in the Pack Forest Demon- strat1on, a 2,000-acre tract set aside in Snoqualmie National Forest (see Tour 8E) by the Lathrop-Pack Foundation for the study of forest conditions. Across the boulevard, in a triangle which forms the tip of the campus proper, cluster the shed-like buildings of the College of F1sher1es. Athletic headquarters lie to the east: the tennis courts, where many champion squads have practiced; the huge brick Athlet1c Pav1l1on; and the football Stad1um, its rim surmounted by a huge totem designed by C. Ken Weidner to symbolize the spirit of the husky, Washington's

mascot. Here, track coach Hec Edmundson, former Olympic half-miler, has been training world-record holders like Steve Anderson, hurdler, Herm Brix, shot-put, and Paul Jessup, discus. Washington has supplied coaches to many prominent universities. The frail shells, launched from the Crew House at the east end of the Lake Wash- ington Canal,, may be seen on any spring or fall day streaking the water of Lake Union or Lake Washington. George Pocock's "one-man shipyard," at the Crew House, has built shells for most of the Uni- versities, using Western red cedar. Bordering Lake Washington Canal, the Golf Course rounds off the campus to the south. Its southwestern limits are marked by the R.O.T.C. Headquarters and Dr1ll F1eld (two years military train- ing is compulsory). Facing Lake Union is the brick building of the Oceanograph1c Laboratory, built jointly in 1931 by the State and the Rockefeller Foundation. It has a circulating system of 45,000 gallons of sea-water, kept at nine degrees Centigrade, the average temperature of Puget Sound. The adjoining wharf is the mooring of the motorship Catalyst between her research cruises. Just north of the oceanography building is an outdoor scale model of the lower Puyallup River, built by the University and the Works Progress Administration for experimentation in flood control. Near the foot of 15th Avenue NE. is mounted the most surprising of all the University units, the Showboat, theater of the Drama Di- vision. Designed like a river boat, under the direction of James Hicken, it rests on piling above the water and measures 140 feet long by 40 feet abeam. It was built by the WPA and completed in 1939. Also con- structed by WPA is a second theater, evolved by Glenn Hughes, director of the Drama Division of the Department of English. The new building, behind Physiology Hall, carries on the work of a stageless theater that was begun in the penthouse of the Meany Hotel. It has a novel, cir- cular seating arrangement around a central arena. 29. The REPERTORY PLAYHOUSE (open three nights a week and Sat. matinee, Oct.-July), corner University Way and N. 41st St., is a rambling structure in English style, built in 1930. The theater com- pany, organized in 1928 by Mr. and Mrs. Burton W. James, has pre- sented many types of plays with professional performers drawn from all sections of the country. The playhouse is a non-profit civic organization (see the Theater). 30. The UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON ARBORETUM, a tract of more than 260 acres, extends from the Lake Washington Canal opposite the University campus to E. Madison St., and from Broadmoor on the east to Montlake District on the west. It is designed to make use of every type of plant and shrub that the climate will support; and the moderate climate of the Puget Sound district makes it possible to grow most of the temperate-zone plants. Featured areas are a nine-acre plant- ing of rhododendrons in beautiful Rhododendron Glen; a three-quar- ter-mile path planted on both sides with azaleas, flowering cherries, and dogwoods—about 8,000 azalea plants are required; and on a hilltop.

the magnolia group comprising 50 of the finest varieties. These, and many thousands of other plants, will make this one of Seattle's most picturesque areas. The Works Progress Administration and the Arbor- etum Foundation are active in these developments. 31. VOLUNTEER PARK (open 9-5 daily), E. Prospect to E. Galer Sts., between nth and 15th Aves. N., is laid out in formal design with flower beds, sunken gardens, a bandstand, and a Conserva- tory (open 0-5 daily). Near the conservatory is the Seward Statue, commemorating the Alaska purchase by William Henry Seward, Sec- retary of State, in 1867. A spiral stairway leads to top of Observat1on Tower where a splendid view is obtained of the city. Sighting devices donated by the Mountaineers Club identify distant mountain peaks. The grave of Princess Angeline, daughter of Chief Seattle, is located in Lakeview cemetery at the north end of the park. The Seattle Art Museum (open 10-5 weekdays; 2-6 Sun.; Wed., and Fri., adm. 25c: Public lecture and gallery tour second Thurs- day of each month; children's story hour Sat. 10 a.m. Oct.-May), is a rectangular structure of modern design, faced with stone and with niches and fountains at the ends of the facade. Two marble rams and two camels guard the entrance; these are from the approach to the tomb of a Chinese Ming Prince of the Fifteenth Century A.D. The museum was presented to the city in 1933 by Mrs. Eugene Fuller and her son, Dr. Richard Fuller. The architects were Bebb and Gould. The Museum has an outstanding Oriental collection, covering the development of Chinese art from the Shang Dynasty (Eighteenth- Twelfth Century B. C.) to the Nineteenth Century, and many other phases of Chinese art. The Japanese collection ranges from the Eighth Century A.D. to the Nineteenth Century. There are also interesting pieces of Siamese, Indian, Korean, Cambodian, and Persian crafts- manship. The Museum's permanent collection of European and American art includes paintings, sculpture, textiles, and an extensive collection of graphic arts from the Fourteenth Century to the present day; 500 fac- simile prints of European masterpieces; and a group of paintings and sculptures by artists of the Northwest. The Northwest Artists' Annual Exhibition is shown here in October. 32. The ST. MARKS CATHEDRAL, 1245 10th Ave. N., is the seat of the Episcopalian diocese of the Bishopric of Olympia. Designed by Robert Brown, the structure was started in 1928 and services were first held on Easter Sunday, 1931. The edifice, which overlooks Lake Union, is still unfinished. 33. The TEMPLE DE HIRSCH (open 0-5:30, Mon. to Fri.), 15th Ave. and E. Union St., a white brick building in Italian Renaissance style, was dedicated in 1908. Seattle's first Jewish congregation was formed in 1889 under the name of Ahabath Shalom, and after a lapse in the years of 1895-9. the present congregation organized with a mem- bership of 65. A religious school with some 400 students is operated in


 * 1) p. 239 (#295) ############################################

S E A T T L E 239 conjunction with the synagogue, meeting on Sunday mornings, 10-12 a.m The Temple Center, adjoining the synagogue, is used for social and cultural activities by the Jewish and general population. The Samuel Rosenberg Memor1al L1brary, on the main floor of the Temple Center, has a circulating collection of 5,300 volumes dealing with Jewish subjects; it is the most extensive library of Jewish litera- ture in the Northwest. 34. The UNITED STATES MARINE HOSPITAL (visiting hours 1-3:45, Sun., Tues. and Thurs.), 14th Ave. S. and Judkins St., was built in 1932, under the supervision of the United States Health Service; the site was given by the city of Seattle. Rising to 16 stories, the hospital commands one of the finest views of the city and is visible for many miles. The building was designed by Bebb and Gould, and John Graham associate architect, and cost $1,608,000. Ten murals by Kenneth Callahan adorn the lobby. Four hundred and fifty patients can be accommodated comfortably, and all modern equipment is provided. 35. LAKE WASHINGTON BRIDGE, constructed by the Wash- ington Toll Bridge Authority and PWA, at a cost of nearly $9,000,000, is a new development in the history of engineering and the largest pontoon bridge of its type in the world. Starting at a point on Rainier Ave., between Day and Atlantic Sts., it passes to Mercer Island over a series of 25 floating sections of reinforced concrete, and thence across the East Channel and Mercer Slough to connect with US 10. The en- tire project is 6% miles in length, with a 45-foot, 4-lane, freeway high- way, over-crossings and under-crossings, sidewalks, entrances, and exit ramps. The floating bridge structure is the most interesting feature of the bridge. Each standard floating unit is securely anchored and weighs 4,558 tons. At each end of the floating bridge, provision is made for the passage of small watercraft requiring a vertical clearance up to 35 feet. Near the center of the floating structure is a 200-foot opening for larger boats and vessels formed by a retractile floating drawspan. The length of this combined floating section is over 1}4 miles. 36. SICK'S SEATTLE STADIUM, Rainier Ave. at Bayview St., named for Emil Sick, financier and businessman, is the home field of the Seattle baseball club, a member of the Pacific Coast League and holder of the Coast Championship for 1939 and 1940. The new field, bleachers, and grandstand were opened in April 1939 on a site which for more than 20 years has been dedicated to the national sport. Costing $350,000, the ball park and buildings can accommodate 15,000 persons. 37. SEWARD PARK, Lake Washington Boulevard at Orcas St., was once an island, but the lowering of the water level of the lake by the opening of Lake Washington Canal in 1916 exposed a connecting stem of land. A torii, copy of the famous torii at Miajima and presented by local Japanese, forms the "Gateway of Welcome." A reproduction of an ancient granite Lantern, weighing six tons, presented by citizens of Yokohama in gratitude for relief given during the earthquake of 1923, stands in the center of a circular garden.

Adjoining the park on the east, the 14 pools and rustic buildings of the Seward Park Rear1ng Ponds occupy a wooded hilltop. On the lake front bordering the boulevard is the W1ld Duck Sanctuary, where mallards and other species find a refuge. 38. BOEING FIELD (King County Airport), 6.5 miles from the city center, is bordered by East Marginal Way (which is US 99 and State 1) on the west and Airport Way on the east. Only a small portion of its 550 acres is outside of the city limits, and the field is often erron- eously referred to as the municipal airport, though it is entirely under the supervision of the King County Commissioners. Nearly every bit of the field is suitable for plane landing. Four concrete runways, rang- ing from 2,600 to 7,300 feet in length, and illuminated by a modern lighting system, are in use. Four hangars, each 100 by 200 feet, are available for storage purposes; one is reserved for rental to owners of private planes. Several schools for instruction in aviation are located at the field. An average of 62 take-offs and an equal number of landings occur daily. Twelve transport flights and arrivals, carrying both passengers and mail, and about 8 Government planes are scheduled for each 24- hour period. 39. The BOEING AIRCRAFT PLANT (admission by pass only), where some of the largest planes in the world are built, specializes in large four-engine machines. One of the West's pioneer aircraft establish- ments, the Boeing Company grew out of the experiments of H. A. Munter in 1912. Plant Number One, at 200 W. Washington St., houses the general offices, main shop, and assembly buildings for flying boats; the giant Pan-American Airways Clippers are assembled here. Plant Number Two, 7901 Marginal Way, covers a 20-acre tract, and is used mainly for the final assembling of land planes; Plant Number Three to the south is used mainly for out-assembly work. 40. WEST SEATTLE MUNICIPAL GOLF LINKS AND REC- REATIONAL CENTERS, begun in December 1935 under WPA grants, has 161 acres of landscaped area, with an 18-hole golf course of 208 acres. A rustic head-house, a stadium, an outdoor checkerboard, a tennis court, and other recreational features are included. A clubhouse for boy scouts is also planned. The Seattle Park Board was co-sponsor of the project. 41. LINCOLN PARK, on Puget Sound, bounded on the east and north by W. Fontanelle St. and Fauntleroy Ave., is a wooded 107-acre salt-water recreational area, the best-equipped in the city for family picnics, and generously supplied with fire grates, tables, and sheltered retreats. There is profusion of wild flowers of many species, and sloping green lawns afford a restful retreat. The park is maintained by the Seattle Park Board and all accommodations are free of charge. 42. ALKI POINT, on the beach front, at Alki Ave. and 59th Ave. SW., is the S1te of the F1rst Seattle Settlement, on September 28, 1851. It was at this point that David T. Denny, John N. Low, Lee Terry, and Captain Robert C. Fay established the first permanent

settlement. Most of the timber had been burned away, making it a suit- able place to put up the shelters that were immediately needed. It has an unobstructed view of the Olympic Mountains and of Puget Sound northward and southward. Here, the first city salt-water bathing beach, which now occupies a mile-long stretch, was provided by the City of Seattle. At Alki Ave. and 63rd Ave. SW. is the shaft commemorating the arrival of the Denny family. At the extreme end of the point is Alk1 Po1nt L1ghthouse (open 12:30-5 Tues., Wed., Fri.), erected in 1916. 43. The FISHER FLOURING MILLS COMPANY PLANT (open to visitors by appointment only), West Waterway, Harbor Island, the largest flour mill west of the Mississippi, has a daily capacity of 6,000 barrels of flour and 4 tons of feed. Established in 1910, the com- pany now employs approximately 700 persons and, with affiliated com- panies, owns and operates more than 100 grain warehouses throughout the Northwest. The huge storage tanks have a capacity of 2,500,000 bushels of grain, approximately 2,000 carloads. The mills' products are sold in the United States, Alaska, Hawaii, Central and South America, Europe, Asia, and the Philippines. 44. The FROZEN FISH MUSEUM (Open 8-5 weekdays), Spo- kane St. and E. Marginal Way, at the PORT OF SEATTLE'S SPOKANE STREET TERMINAL, contains a nationally known collection of more than 200 frozen specimens of rare fish, retaining their natural color and appearance. Included in the exhibit are several sharks, a whale, an enormous octopus, and a 536-pound swordfish. In addition to wharf and warehouse, the terminal has a cold storage warehouse of more than 2,000,000 cubic feet capacity. POINTS OF INTEREST IN ENVIRONS Bainbridge Island, 45 min. by ferry, 9.5 m. (see Island Tour 1). Vashon Island, 20 min. by ferry, 3 m. (see Island Tour 2). Bremerton, 1 hr. by ferry, 15 m. (see Cross-Sound Tour 3). Snoqualmie Falls, 33 m. (see Tour 1b). Lake Wash- ington Drive, 52 m. (see Tours 1b and tc). Lake Lucerne, 26 m.; Green River Gorge, 29 m. (see Tour 1D).

Railroad Stations: 416 W. Trent Ave. for Union Pacific R.R., Oregon-Wash- ington R.R. & Navigation Co., Spokane International Ry. (Canadian Pacific Ry.), and Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul Jc Pacific R.R.; 221 W. 1st Ave. for Northern Pacific Ry.; Stevens St. and Havermale Island for Great Northern Ry.; Spokane, Portland, and Seattle Ry. uses both Northern Pacific and Great Northern Stations. Bus Station: Motor Bus Terminal, 229 N. Howard St. for Union Pacific Stages, Washington Motor Coach System (Greyhound Lines), Priest River and Priest Lake Intrastate k Interstate Motor Coach Line, and Auto Interurban Company lines to Inland Empire points. Desert Hotel, 725 W. First Ave., for Burns Auto Stages (interstate only, Washington-Idaho). Airport: Felts Field (municipal), 4 m. E. from city center via Trent Road and Fancher Way, for United Air Lines and Northwest Airlines. Taxi fare $1.15, time 15 min.; bus fare, 10c, hourly service from Riverside Ave. between Monroe and Division Sts., time 20 min. Taxis: 25c first mile, 10c each additional half-mile or fraction; $2 per hour. City busses: Fare 10c, or four tokens for 30c. Traffic Regulations: Maximum speed limit 25 m.p.h.; one-hour parking limit on weekdays in retail zone 8-6; three-hour parking limit in area bounded by Division and Adams Sts. and Trent and Third Aves.; two-hour parking 2-6 p.m.; five-hour maximum in other parts of city. Street Order and Numbering: Blocks numbered E and W. from Division St.; N. and S. from Sprague Ave. Accommodations: 34 hotels; 9 tourist camps; Highbridge Tourist Camp (muni- cipal) near US 10 on Latah Creek, has trailer facilities. Information Service: Davenport Hotel, 807 Sprague Ave.; Chamber of Com- merce and Inland Automobile Association (AAA), Civic Bldg., 1020 W. Riverside Ave. Theater and Motion Picture Houses: Spokane Little Theater, 1019 W. 1st Ave., frequent local productions and road shows; 13 motion picture houses. Radio Stations: KFIO (1150 kc.); KFPY (920 kc.); KGA (1510 kc.); KHQ (590 kc). Baseball: Ferris Field, Main Ave., and Altamont St. Horse Racing: Playfair, Main Ave., and Altamont St. Golf: Two municipal courses: Downriver, on Downriver Drive at NW. city limits, 18 holes, greens fee 50c; Indian Canyon, on Indian Canyon Drive and West Drive near US 10, 18 holes, greens fee 50c. Tennis: 15 municipal courts in parks and playgrounds. Swimming: Five municipal pools; Liberty Pool, E. 5th Ave. and Perry St.; Sinto Pool, E. Mission Ave. and Perry St.; Hillyard Pool, Columbia Ave. and Market St.; Cannon Pool, W. Maxwell Ave. and Cannon St.; Comstock Pool, W. 29th Ave. and Howard St. Natatorium Park Pool (open 11-11 daily), W. end of Boone Ave., adults 52c (including suit rental); children 27c. Riding: Ajax Riding Stables, E. Hartson Ave.; Brown's Mountain Riding Academy, 29th Ave., and Havana St.; Cooper's Riding Club Stables, Indian Canyon Road; Mac's Riding Stables, Riverside State Park, at Seven Mile: 50c

an hour, average charge weekdays; usually 75c first hour, Sat., Sun., and holidays. Ice Skating: Spokane Ice Arena (open 1-11 daily, winter), 1407 N. Elm St.; adults 25c daytime, 40c evenings; children 15c daytime, 30c evenings; admis- sion subject to change. Municipal tennis courts flooded for winter skating; free. Hunting and Fishing: Grouse, pheasant, duck, and deer hunting in environs. Good fishing in lakes and rivers. Annual Events: Spokane Ski Club and Inland Empire Ski Tournament at Mount Spokane, Jan., or Feb.; Automobile Show, Mar.; Easter Sunrise Service on Mount Spokane; Sportsmen's Show, May; Polo Tournaments, June; Spokane Rodeo, July; City Amateur Swimming Championships, Aug.; Inland Empire Amateur Golf Tournament, Aug. or Sept.; Flower Show, Sept.; Halloween Parade and Harvest Home Festival, Oct. 31; Shrine Football Game, last week in Nov.; Spokane Civic Symphony and Spokane Symphony concerts, Nov. to May. SPOKANE (1,981 alt., 122,001 pop.), second-largest city in Wash- ington and largest inland city west of Omaha and north of Denver, is the metropolis of an extensive farming, lumbering, and mining area known as the Inland Empire. This uneven plateau, south of British Columbia, extends beyond the Coeur d'Alene Mountains on the east, spreads southward beyond the rolling Palouse and Walla Walla districts into Oregon, and circles through the Big Bend country to the Columbia River on the west. Geographically, this region embraces a variety of terrain—fertile wheatlands, bunchgrass ranges, sagebrush deserts studded with scab-rock, wooded foothills, and rugged mountain ranges. A spiderweb of railroads, highways, and airlines radiates from the city in all directions. Concentrated around the falls of the Spokane River, the city spreads outward toward the east over the level valley floor and stretches upward on the north and south beyond the rocky rim of steep, pine-covered hills. The river, which practically bisects the 41 square miles included within the corporate limits, courses in a westerly direction through a shallow channel until it reaches Havermale Island, a huge rock just above the falls. Here the stream divides. Beyond the island it swirls through a narrow basaltic channel and tumbles 150 feet in a series of plunges over rocky ledges to the channel below. In summer, when the level of Lake Couer d'Alene, source of the stream, is low, a bare trickle of water is to be seen, but at high water in early spring the falls are a fury of green-white water, foam, and iridescent spray. Below the falls the stream sweeps in a broad curve between a high, dirt railroad embankment on the right (with a squatters' settlement at- its base) and the narrow flat of Peaceful Valley on the left, where un- pretentious houses huddle at the base of the precipitous wall of the canyon. Then turning northward, it flows past tree-lined avenues, parks and playgrounds, Fort George Wright, and the Downriver Golf Course, until it passes beyond the northwestern limits of the city. Most impressive of the many bridges crossing the river is the graceful, arched span at Monroe Street. Running approximately north-south, at the west end of town, is Latah Creek, known locally as Hangman Creek. Here the expansion of the city faltered but did not entirely stop. In the narrow valley are

small suburban homes and truck gardens and Highbridge Park; beyond is an area of residences interspersed with grocery stores, garages, and vacant lots. Latah Creek Bridge, an arched concrete structure, spans the canyon. South of the river is the metropolitan area, an elongated strip center- ing along Riverside Avenue and bounded by Trent and First Avenues on the north and south respectively, and Division and Monroe Streets on the east and west. In this compact area are the leading hotels, motion picture houses, restaurants, and civic buildings. A few of the more modern office buildings tower above the other business blocks. Along Trent, once the center of the city, are hotels, chop houses, secondhand stores, pawnshops, beer parlors, and pool halls, rescue missions, and employment brokerage offices frequented by men seeking work in mines, fields, and woods, for whom the cryptic messages chalked on the boards often mean the difference between a job with regular meals or a handout in the breadline. Bordering the river is the main industrial district— flour mills, factories, machine shops, bakeries, sawmills, foundries, breweries, hydroelectric plants, and the tracks of the Great Northern and Union Pacific lines. A smaller industrial area lies south of First Avenue; here are the elevated tracks of the Northern Pacific Railway, warehouses, print shops, small factories, and wholesale houses. Beyond the Northern Pacific tracks, the streets begin to climb grad- ually. As the grade becomes more pronounced, occasional switchbacks are used to effect the ascent of Cannon Hill, an area of attractive resi- dences set amid spacious grounds, where huge basaltic rocks and towering pines give individuality to the landscaping. Other fine residential districts center around Manitou Park, Cliff Drive, Rockwood Boulevard, Coeur d'AIene Park, and North Hill. Scattered throughout the city are pleasant, middle-class residential districts, where neat lawns and well- painted houses give evidence of the extensiveness of home ownership; more than 57 per cent of the 35,000 homes are the property of those who live in them. Spokane has no well-defined tenement district, but fringing the industrial and commercial areas are nondescript working-class houses, frequently drab and unsightly. The greater part of the population of Spokane is native born, less than 20 per cent claiming foreign birth. Second-generation national groups are, however, well-represented — Irish, Germans, and Scandinavians in particular, and Italians, Greeks, Scots, and French to a lesser extent. Among racial minorities are 1,000 Negroes, most of whom are engaged in service trades; a few score Chinese in restaurants, laundries, and truck farming; a number of Indians, who wander in and out of the city; and some Japanese. The population on the whole is relatively stable, partly perhaps because the city has drawn to it from surrounding agricultural areas farmers who have disposed of their property or who have turned it over to the management of children or renters. Drifting through the city, however, are thousands of migratory workers, mostly single men, who find seasonal employment in mines and in lumber camps and on the farms.

In the early decades of the nineteenth century, this region, the Inland Empire, was the domain of the Spokane and other Indian bands, whose control was as yet not openly challenged. A few explorers had passed through it, and fur traders of Great Britain and the United States were trickling in, the advance guard of the army of settlers to follow. But these men had no desire to stimulate settlement, for their source of in- come—fur-bearing animals—depended upon the preservation of the wilderness. Earliest among the traders and trappers in the country of the Spokane were Finan McDonald and Joco Finlay, who, in 1810, acting under the authority of David Thompson of the North West Fur Company, built Spokane House, about ten miles below the falls, at the junction of the Spokane and Little Spokane Rivers. Two years later, John Clarke, a chief trader of the Pacific Fur Company (John Jacob Astor's cor- poration), built Fort Spokane not far from Spokane House. A grand opening, to which neighboring Indians as well as trappers and traders were invited, was given to celebrate the completion of the fort. Friendly speeches, the displaying of merchandise, and dancing to the squeaky music of the fiddle marked the first big social event of the Spokane country. For a brief period the Astorians and the Nor' Westers traded side by side. After the purchase in 1813 of the Pacific Fur Company by the North West Company, the post continued to be a popular meeting place for trading parties, Indians, and company employees. Alexander Ross, de- scribing the social attractions, says, "At Spokane House there were attractive buildings, a ball-room even; and no females in the land so fair to look upon as the nymphs of Spokane; no damsels could dance so gracefully as they; none were so attractive." In 1821 the Hudson's Bay Company absorbed the North West Company, and five years later dismantled Spokane House, removing all equipment to Fort Colvile, which had been established at a point more in line with the usual route of the fur traders. Again the Spokane country became the undisputed home of the Indian, although fur traders continued to drift through and some marks of the white men's culture remained. Chief Garry, of the Middle and Upper Spokane, who had been sent to the Red River Mission school, returned in 1830 a zealous convert to Presbyterianism. He set about teaching his people how to live according to the precepts of the new religion; and, on the more practical side, how to practice the arts of agriculture. He also built a school, a special lodge of poles covered with mats. Here during the winter months he strove to teach English and religion to his people, although his work was suspended frequently, for attendance was irregular whenever the food supply ran low. The 1830's saw the coming of the first missionaries to the valley of the Spokane River. In 1835 the Reverend Samuel Parker had surveyed the field for the American Board, representing the Congregational, Pres- byterian, and Dutch Reformed churches; three years later Reverend Cushing Eells and Reverend Elkanah Walker established a mission on

Walker's Prairie, about 25 miles northwest of the falls, but no permanent settlers followed them. The boundary between the United States and Canada having been established in 1846 at the 49th parallel of latitude, the way was cleared for settling the Northwest, or the Oregon Country as the expanse of wilderness was called. The trickle of immigrants rose to hundreds in 1843 and to thousands in 1845. The Indians began to look with sus- picion upon the white settlers, their fears, aggravated by other causes, culminating in the Whitman Massacre. One result of this tragedy was the virtual closing to settlement of the country east of the Cascade Mountains and the abandonment of Protestant missionary work in this area; Eells and Walker moved on into the Willamette Valley. The creation of Washington Territory in 1853 stimulated a renewal of settlement. In 1851, Antoine Plante had established a ferry a few miles above the falls, and in 1853 a man named Pelletier, with the permission of Chief Garry, settled on the Walker-Eells mission site. In the same year, Governor Stevens passed through the country on his way to Olympia and was apparently impressed by the grazing lands and by the agricultural pursuits of Chief Garry and his people. Also in 1853, Francis B. Owens, a cattleman driven out of Montana by the Blackfeet Indians, brought some 600 head of cattle and 500 head of horses to feed in the valley. More settlers continued to come, so that by 1855, when the newly discovered Colville mines brought many adventurers into the region, it was already clear that the days of Indian control were numbered. Settlement in the immediate vicinity of the falls began in 1871, when J. J. Downing, with his wife and stepdaughter, and S. R. Scranton, two cattlemen from Montana, located claims on the banks of the river. In the next year, Richard M. Benjamin joined them with his family, bought a third interest in the claim for $500, and built a small, water-powered sawmill. A post office was established, with Scranton as the first post- master, on July 5, 1872. In the fall of the same year, James Nettle Glover and J. N. Matheny arrived from Salem, Oregon, bought Benjamin's share for a few hundred dollars, took an option on the remainder, and then went back to Oregon to seek financial assistance. In 1873 they returned with Cyrus F. Yeaton, bought out Scranton and Downing, and improved the mill and built a small store. Of this store, Glover, years later, wrote: "My store was just across the street and directly west of the city hall. It stood about the center of the block and was a frame building. My first stock was made up of Indian supplies— cheap blankets, calicoes, beads and paints (I did a big business in paints), tobacco, sugar, tea, and coffee, cutlery and all sorts of groceries. I lived in my store building—Mr. Yeaton lived in the rear of the store and Mr. Matheny in a log house on the present site of the Coeur d'Alene hotel. At that time the present business district from the river to the present line of the Northern Pacific tracks was a beautiful prairie of bunch grass and sunflowers." In exchange for the assurance that a flour mill would be built, Glover gave Frederick Post 40 acres of his land.

Quickly the little settlement began to take root. A school district wa9 organized, and in 1875 the Reverend H. T. Cowley, appointed to be the teacher, began holding classes for six pupils in his home. In the same year the Reverend S. G. Havermale preached the first sermon to a white congregation in Glover's store, Mrs. Yeaton playing a small organ she had brought with her. This year also saw the introduction of baseball at a grand centennial celebration of the Fourth of July, settlers from as far north as Canada and as far south as the Snake River joining in the festivities. In 1877, news that the Nez Perce Indians were on the warpath sent the settlers into a panic. Those within a radius of some 25 miles flocked to the settlement by the falls and sought refuge on Havermale Island. Late in the autumn two companies of soldiers arrived and stayed until the following spring. On February 13, 1878, the town was officially born, when Glover filed the plat of Spokane Falls in Colville. In the same year J. J. Browne and A. M. Cannon bought half-interest in the townsite from Glover, and soon the first boom was under way. A schoolhouse was built in 1878; the first paper, the Spokane Times, was started in 1879 by Francis H. Cook, and the First Congregational and First Methodist churches were organized. By 1879 population had jumped to 75, and by 1880 a village of some 50 houses (mostly one-story board shacks) had grown up on the south bank of the river, centering at Howard Street and Trent Avenue. A tiny rope ferry and two canoes were still the only means of crossing the stream. Baseball was by this time an established institution. The Spokane Times, of July 10, 1879, describes one of the games: "The crowd picked from the survey party and the Spokane Falls club. The surveyers had their choice, and took the field. The Spokans made thirteen runs and then took the field, the surveyors making eight runs before getting out. At the conclusion of this inning the rain began to fall, and the game was called by the umpire, Captain Pease, the score standing, Spokane 13, Surveyors 8. This ended the afternoon's sports." By this time the town had achieved some degree of permanency and stability, and the townsfolk, now that the problems of food, clothing and shelter were less pressing, could give more time and attention to the cultural aspects of community life. Enrollment in public schools was increasing; in 1881 the foundation for what was to become Gonzaga University was laid. Father J. M. Cataldo, a Jesuit, who had estab- lished St. Michael's Mission east of Spokane Falls in 1877, acquired purchase rights for half a section of land from the Northern Pacific Railroad for $2.60. Final title having been acquired, building of the university started in 1884 and was completed in 1886. The school opened in 1887 with an enrollment of eight students. The first theater, the Globe, opened in 1881, and Joy's Opera House the next year. In 1883 a large rink was erected and, within a short time, was converted into a general community auditorium. This same year was marked by the first outstanding theatrical attraction—the appearance

of Emma Abbott in The Bohemian Girl. No hall of sufficient size being available, a warehouse was pressed into service. A local paper writing of the performance said: "The audience paid two dollars each for re- served seats on gang plows and farm implements." Nail kegs in the rear were a trifle cheaper. Before the close of the decade two other theaters, the Falls City and the Concordia, had opened. The optimistic spirit that prevailed sprang to a considerable extent from the approach of the Northern Pacific Railroad. There was much talk of the improvements that would follow the establishment of rail connections and of profits to be made. A. M. Cannon, who had opened a store, became active in real estate and started the first bank. "The N.P. is coming this way," he observed, "and there will be all sorts of checks to cash and I might as well be ready to take care of them." The completion of the western extension of the line from Gold Creek, Mon- tana, to Spokane Falls was accomplished in June 1881. Great was the excitement when the first train puffed in. When the town was incor- porated as Spokane Falls, by an act of the territorial legislature on November 29, 1881, it had a population of 1,000. Enclosed within the boundaries of the city limits was an area of approximately one and one- half square miles. In 1883 the Northern Pacific Railroad was completed through Mon- tana, thus establishing transcontinental mail service. Extravagantly worded notices were circulated widely in the East, publicizing "the luxuries of limitless wealth" that "the manufacturing center of the Great Northwest" offered. So rapidly did the settlement grow that its boundar- ies were extended in 1883 to enclose four square miles. The Spokane Falls Review, May 19, 1883, under the heading "Fresh Industry" said: "New dwellings, new stores, and new manufacturing establishments are springing up like magic, and the end is not yet." The town was definitely emerging from the shack and cabin stage. Four two-story brick "blocks," as these new buildings were called, were the pride of local citizens. The big stampede to the placer camps on the North Fork of the Coeur d'Alene River was on, and every train brought hundreds of men whose imaginations had been fired by stories which in retelling had converted mere prospects into fabulously rich mines. Over all the country was the glamor of gold, and Spokane Falls was the supply point and promotion center. By 1884 at least 1,000 new settlers had arrived; the dusty streets were crowded with rattling stagecoaches and lumbering prairie schoon- ers. Heavily laden freight wagons and strings of pack horses and burros set out almost daily for outlying settlements and mining camps. Miners, lumberjacks, construction workers, and Indians jostled each other on the wooden sidewalks, in stores, and on the dance floors of the local amuse- ment halls. Brawls were a daily occurrence, and not infrequently guns were drawn, occasionally with fatal results. Less spectacular was the steady progress of agriculture. Every year thousands of additional acres were broken and planted to wheat, and throughout the region small towns sprang up like mushrooms. As farm- ing became profitable, more and more closely did the white settlers press

for possession. Sometimes the Indians were merely dispossessed; at other times they received token payments, a second-hand saddle or a few dollars. At the last conference, held in 1887 in a livery stable on River- side Avenue, a final indignant but unsuccessful protest was made by Chief Garry in behalf of his people. Population growth was reflected in cultural developments. News- papers sprang up overnight. Among those that survived for a consider- able length of time were the Spokane Review, the News-Democrat, the Spokane News, and the Spokane Weekly Times. Three mining journals appeared. The foundation for the library was laid in 1885 by a self- constituted committee of women, who canvassed the town for donations of books. By 1890 seventeen religious denominations had formed con- gregations and nearly as many churches had been built. Manners and modes of frontier life were passing, and social activity was assuming a more important part in the life of the city. A favorite place for elaborate social functions and for theatrical attractions was Concordia Hall, on Second Avenue west of Monroe Street, a building owned by the Concordia Singing Society, a German organization. Here in 1886, the Bachelor's Ball, social event of that winter's season, was held. The liveliest, and apparently the most popular and most profitable, form of entertainment was the variety theater. The first of these, the Coeur d'Alene, opened in December 1886, in a tent on the corner of Main Avenue and Howard Street. The entertainers supplemented their stage acts by mingling with customers on the dance floor and at the bars. The Review balanced the weights of morality thus: "A variety theater may not add to the moral tone of a city, but it indicates that the place has grown to a size where a regular place of amusement is in demand. Other cities support theaters of this class and Spokane Falls will not stay in the rear of the procession." On a sultry Sunday evening, August 4, 1889, a fire broke out in an eating house on Railroad Avenue. Fanned by a brisk wind, the flames spread rapidly until the entire section of the city from the Northern Pacific Railway tracks to the river, and from Lincoln to Washington streets, was devastated. The newly installed Holley system of water works was useless, for the only man who knew how to operatexit prop- erly had left town on an outing; efforts of voluntary bucket brigades proved futile. The business district, an area comprising 32 blocks, was destroyed, with an estimated loss of $6,000,000. Only one building was standing on Riverside Avenue next morning. No lives were lost, but the city was a mass of blackened ruins. Not missing an issue, the Chronicle appeared, printed on borrowed paper as a small sheet; it sold for as much as 75c a copy. A tent city sprang up, and business was carried on as well as it could be in flimsy shacks. Reconstruction began at once. In rebuilding, the business district was shifted from Front (Trent) Avenue, along the river, to Riverside, two blocks south. Prices of real estate soared, sums up to $1,000 a front foot being paid for lots at the intersection of Howard Street and Riverside Avenue, the new center of the metropoli-

tan area. Within a year more than $4,000,000 were invested in new construction. Nearly 100 business buildings were erected at an average cost of $150,000 each. Railroad and manufacturing interests expanded, new stores opened, and rolling and flour mills more than doubled their output; the assessed value of real and personal property rose to $15,000,- 000, and population was augmented 50 per cent. Expansion continued at a somewhat slower rate in 1892-3. Spokane Falls, now well on the way towards city status with a popu- lation of almost 30,000, was reincorporated in 1890 under the provisions of the new State constitution, by which home rule was given to cities. In this year the matter of the proper spelling of the name of the town —that is, to spell it with or without the final "e"—was decided, when the council adopted Spokane as the official name instead of Spokane Falls, and further decreed that henceforth Spokane should be spelled with the final "e." The charter, which was adopted by popular vote on March 24, 1891, extended the city limits by adding 16 square miles to the previously designated 4 square miles. Civic improvements accompanied this expansion. Sewers were laid, street lighting was improved, and bridges were built at Howard and at Division Streets. A crude cable-car line was started in the Fort Wright district. Horsecars gave way to small electric streetcars, which clanked and rocked along on their four wheels. Streets, however, remained un- paved, and perilous was the crossing for ladies during rainy weather. Horse racing continued to be one of the most popular sports, profes- sional baseball was organized in 1890, and tennis, which was introduced in 1892, was rapidly gaining favor. Another newspaper, the Spokesman, was established, only to merge with the Review in 1893 to form the Spokesman-Review. Bicycles were common, although the youth of the city still preferred to ride their mustangs and cayuses. The first auto- mobile appeared in 1900; wise people, who smiled and shook their heads as the flimsy contraption made its faltering way up Cannon Hill, con- tinued to get around in horse-drawn vehicles. The show business was prosperous throughout the 1890's. In the spring of 1890 a grand opera company presented Emma Jack and Com- pany in Carmen and Faust, and the Review reported: "Never before have the wealth, beauty, and fashion of this fair city turned out in such numbers." Late in the same year a $300,000, five-story auditorium opened with a performance of Manon. In 1891 Sarah Bernhardt was paid $3,000 for a single performance. Less respectable were the variety theaters that flourished like weeds after a spring rain. The most notorious was the Coeur d'Alene, with the Comique a runner-up. Local disap- proval of this type of entertainment mounted, and, led by local ministers, an aggressive campaign was directed against the variety theaters. An ordinance prohibiting them was passed in 1895, only to be vetoed by the mayor. Soon the town was more wide open than ever; proprietors of shows paraded the streets with bands, followed by their box-rustling ladies in carriages. In 1897 Mayor Olmstead called for the enforcement of regulatory laws. "While I am not a puritan," said the mayor, "I

am convinced that vice and immorality have put on too brazen a front. . ." As a result all dance halls and variety shows were closed, but the Coeur d'Alene and the Comique reopened within a few weeks. One of the best-known and most popular characters of this lusty period was Jimmy Durkin, whose bars, as even his critics conceded, were as unobjectionable as bars can be. Everyone knew and liked this genial, kindly saloon keeper, who boasted that he would cash any check offered to him. He had advertisements to that effect painted on roadside rocks, until a miner brought in a rock one day and asked: "See anything peculiar about that rock, Jimmy?"—"No. I can't say I do," answered Durkin.—"Well," said the miner, "I found that rock 4,000 feet below the surface and it's the only one in this part of the country without your name on it." When denounced by a crusading minister, Durkin promptly offered window space for an antisaloon display. The display only served to attract larger crowds, and the minister admitted defeat in a comment which Durkin had inscribed on his tombstone (ordered some 30 years before his death in 1934): "The minister said, a man of his word." In 1892, Chief Garry, who had seen his people lose their lands, at first slowly and then at an accelerated pace, died in poverty in his tepee near the mouth of Indian Creek. For years he had been a familiar figure, impressive in spite of his small stature and even when age and drink had altered his proud bearing. Since the loss of his farm, he had led a precarious life. Astride his white horse, he had gone about the streets of the city seeking enough food and clothing to keep his aged, blind wife and himself alive. The funeral services at the Presbyterian Church were attended by many, and the old chief was buried with proper ceremony in an obscure corner of Greenwood Cemetery—and forgotten until 1925. Then his remains were moved to a place of honor near the main entrance, and a tall granite shaft was erected to commemorate this "friend of the white people." Ever since the advent of the railroad in 1881 a storm had been brewing over exorbitant freight rates. Spokane, although 300 miles nearer the East than coastal cities, was forced to pay a much higher tariff. The Northern Pacific contended that this differential was un- avoidable, for the competition of water transportation forced reductions for the long haul. Protests being ineffective, the case was carried to the courts, where the legality of the railroad's action was upheld and relief was denied. In 1892, however, James J. Hill, the Great Northern Rail- road magnate, challenging the Northern Pacific monopoly, sought a right-of-way worth $1,000,000. He promised an adjustment of rates and asked in return free passage through the city. A refusal, he implied, would probably necessitate choosing a cheaper route 10 miles to the north, and in such an event, Spokane freight rates would go unchanged. The right-of-way was granted on the terms Hill offered, and for a brief time it seemed that the battle for equitable rates had been won. Then came the panic of 1893; the Northern Pacific passed into the control of Hill, and the promised reduction of tariffs was forgotten. The city had

spent nearly $1,000,000 and had gained new railroad connections, but the long-and-short-haul battle was not to be settled for a quarter of a century. Alternate slumps and booms marked the economic history of the period. The older mining districts were producing fairly steadily by this time, and new mines were opening up in the Coeur d'Alenes and in the Kootenai district in British Columbia. Farms were increasing in number, size, and productivity; villages were becoming small towns, where farmers disposed of produce and purchased supplies. The volume of trade and traffic through Spokane steadily increased. The 1893 depression swept over the city, and business remained in the doldrums until 1895, the completion of the county courthouse marking the beginning of the upswing and the end of widespread unemployment. The strength of the Populist Party, whose banner had been carried locally by Ryan's Pro- gressive Weekly, was waning, and in spite of the popularity of William Jennings Bryan and free silver, McKinley's full-dinner-pail slogan was soon to triumph. The century ended with Spokane entering upon a period of unprecedented expansion. For ten years Spokane prospered and grew, with only short periods of dull business. New silver and lead mines were opened in the Coeur d'Alenes and in lesser mining districts. The rapid develop- ment of industries was reflected in extensive building; construction in 1904 alone included three schoolhouses, several churches, a theater, a hospital, the Masonic Temple, a Carnegie library, 10 apart- ment houses, and numerous smaller buildings and residences. A "city beautiful" campaign resulted in the planting of 80,000 shade trees. Streetcar service was improved, and paving was extended into the residence districts. Downtown streets were crowded with the wagons of farmers, beer trucks drawn by sleek powerful horses, heavy drays, and shiny carriages; interurban lines were being laid to out- lying towns, and automobiles were becoming an accepted if not trusted means of travel. Irrigated orchard tracts in the Spokane Valley were producing, and the price of wheat was relatively high. Annually at the Interstate Fair and Livestock Show, the agricultural wealth of the area was displayed to thousands, who flocked to the city from all parts of the Inland Empire. In 1910 building permits totaled an all-time high of $8,766,226, the largest single building being the 15-story Old National Bank, Spokane's first skyscraper. Throughout these years population was increasing with extraordinary rapidity. Land-hungry emigrants, particularly from Germany, Poland, Russia, and the Scandinavian countries, came in a steady stream. This influx reached its peak in 1909, when the Spokane, Flathead, and Coeur d'Alene Indian reservations were thrown open. More than 250,000 applications were filed within a few weeks. Newcomers were forced to put up tents in outlying districts and on vacant lots, for construction could not keep pace with the demand for housing. From a population of 36,848 in 1900 the city reached 104,402 in 1910.

The Dams


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Photograph courtesy of The Pioneer and the Department of Interior NIGHT VIEW OF COULEE DAM UNDER CONSTRUCTION


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RIGGERS RIDING A HOISTING CABLE HIGH ABOVE WATERS DURING DAM CONSTRUCTION Photograph courtesy of Department of Interior WORKMEN ON THE DOWNSTREAM FACE OF DAM IN THE SPILLWAY SECTION

Photograph courtesy of Department of Interior


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Photograph courtesy of Department of Interior GENERAL VIEW OF COULEE DAM, SHOWING CONTRACTOR'S TOWN IN FOREGROUND AND ENGINEER'S TOWN IN BACKGROUND

UPSTREAM FACE AND RESERVOIR, COULEE DAM Photograph courtesy of Department of Interior -


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Photograph courtesy of Department of Interioi DOWNSTREAM FACE AND POWER HOUSE UNDER INSTRUCTION, COULEE DAM Photograph courtesy of Department of Interio,


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ILLE DAM Photograph Washingion Slate Progress Commission

ROCK ISLAND DAM NEAR WENATCHEE DIABLO DAM


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Photograph courtesy of Department of Interior SALMON ENTERING ELEVATOR AT ROCK ISLAND DAM Following this (lift) the salmon are taken to streams below Grand Coulee Dam for spawning VIEW OF FISHWAY AND CONTROL GATE SPILLWAY FOR MIGRATION OF SALMON BY SIDE OF ROCK ISLAND DAM Photograph courtesy of Department of Interior

These years saw the passing of the last surviving element of the con- vivial frontier mining town. In 1900 the variety theater was still an accepted institution, and proprietors could safely dismiss with little concern the onslaughts of reformers. Thus, in November 1901, during one of the periodic reform waves, "Dutch Jake" Goetz offered the large barroom of the Coeur d'Alene for religious services. Some 400 men gathered there, drawn by curiosity and the lure of the three bars, the gambling house, the variety theater, the cafe, and the Turkish bath. The account in the morning paper said: "Mingling with the hymns of salvation and the message of religion were the clink of glasses, the maud- lin utterances of tipsy men, the noise of shuffling feet, the hurrying to and fro of waiters with calls of 'one stein,' 'one egg sherry,' 'one gin fizz and four cocktails,' 'ham and eggs,' and a score of other phrases of the barroom. During the brief wait for the services to begin, the crowd was entertained with selections on the big mechanical pipe organ, while the electric fountain winked its myriad of electric lights." Before the end of the decade, the Coeur d'Alene and other "in- famous" and "iniquitous" theaters were to darken their doors forever. Early in January 1908, Mayor Moore warned saloonkeepers that the Sunday closing law would be enforced. His warning was ignored. Whole- sale arrests followed. When quiet was restored the chastened saloon- keepers had agreed to conform to the law, but on January 11 the Coeur d'Alene, the K.K., and the Comique variety theaters closed. Soon they were merely the subject of reminiscences by aging men, who regretfully wove their way homeward on Saturday nights, lamenting the passing of the good old days. Prewar years were comparatively quiet, although extension of inter- urban lines continued, and, as the number of automobiles increased, enthusiasm for good roads mounted. Twinkling lights before moving picture shows flashed the names of Louise Fazenda and Charlie Chaplin in Tillie's Punctured Romance and of Lewis Stone and Theda Bara in The Vampire. Crowds still flocked to the circuses, the Interstate Fair continued to attract thousands for a week of harvest celebration, and Billy Sunday periodically held forth in a huge canvas tent. In 1913 the State went dry, and Jimmy Durkin and other saloonkeepers closed their doors. A huge electric sign, a bottle from which beer flowed in a stream of twinkling lights, flashed off for the last time—to the regret of every youngster who reveled in the bright surprise of its intermittent flashes. Much of the activity of Spokane has been bound up with the con- struction of railroads. In 1908 the third transcontinental line had come into the picture when Robert Edmund Strahorn, acting secretly for E. H. Harriman of the Union Pacific, acquired valuable downtown property and organized the Spokane Union Terminal Project. By 1914 Strahorn effected a junction of the Canadian Pacific, the Union Pacific, and the Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul railroads at the Union Station. In addition to the station, 4,000 feet of bridges costing $7,000,- 000 were built. Thus Spokane came to have five transcontinental lines. Grade separation of the Northern Pacific Railroad had been under way

for some time, and in 1916 the Spokesman-Review was able to announce that "regular passenger and freight trains passed over the new elevated railway yesterday for the first time." Two years later the fight over the long-and-short-haul interpretation of railroad tariffs ended, when the United States Supreme Court reversed its earlier decisions favorable to the railroads and supported the rulings of the Interstate Commerce Commission, thus giving Spokane more equitable rates. The war slump followed the war boom. In 1918 new building dropped to $422,956, the low point of the century. Production of mills and mines was sharply curtailed, and prices of wheat and other farm produce dropped lower and lower. During the twenties, construction revived, the annual investment fluctuating between two and four millions between 1921 and 1929, with a top figure of $5,002,024 in 1928. Thousands of cars were now whizzing along the spiderweb of highways centering in Spokane. Slowly the interurban electric railroads gave way; before the decade closed, almost all lines had been abandoned and tracks had been torn up. Agricultural prices, however, continued generally low. Farmers found it increasingly difficult to pay interest on mortgages, to buy new cars or farm equipment, or to build new houses and barns. The irrigated tracts in the valley suffered from an inadequate supply of water, low prices, and high freight rates. Thoughtful persons, who looked beneath the surface prosperity of the city and saw the repercussions that inevitably would follow continued depression of agriculture, already were studying the feasibility of a huge dam across the Columbia to furnish power and water for the fertile but arid lands of the Big Bend country. Black Friday and the gloomy months that followed hit Spokane hard. Already dizzy from the effects of the depression of agriculture, business and industry reeled as banks closed their doors, stores closed or went into voluntary bankruptcy, sawmills ceased to operate, and mines cur- tailed production when silver and lead prices hit new lows. Bread lines formed, and panhandling on city streets increased. Men stood in front of employment offices hopelessly looking for jobs that did not exist. Hard-pressed businessmen, too, appealed to State and Federal govern- ments for assistance, joining their voices with those of workers and farmers. In the thirties, conditions slowly began to improve as various relief measures alleviated the most pressing needs. Urban workers found jobs on various Works Progress Administration projects—street and sewer replacements, park and playground improvements, and building and construction work of various kinds. Agriculture, too, improved measur- ably under the Federal farm program; slowly the price of wheat, which remains the principal farm crop, rose; the prices of eggs, chickens, beef, hogs, and fruit followed. The most important single factor in recovery for Spokane and the Inland Empire has been the construction of Grand Coulee Dam, which has given employment to many thousands. Spokane today looks forward with some assurance to the next decade. Between 300 and 400 factories employ about 15,000 persons. Included

weekdays except Mon. 10-4; Sun. 1-5; Tues. and Thurs. evening 7 P.M.; free), first of its kind in the State of Washington and third on the Pacific Coast, was opened in September 1938, by the Federal Art Projects of the Works Progress Administration, acting jointly with com- munity sponsorship. The gallery provides traveling exhibits through a circuit covering the entire country, including more than 50 such galleries established through WPA. The exhibits, usually changed every three weeks, bring to Spokane art from all parts of the Nation. 4. The MASONIC BUILDING (open 9-5 weekdays, evenings by appointment), 1108 Riverside Ave., follows the curve of the street, thus giving prominence to. its colonnaded facade. Designed by Rigg and Cantyne in the Classical style, it has 18 columns of the Roman-Corin- thian order, supporting a stone-railed promenade that extends the length of the building. At both ends of the promenade are stone tripods, and from these, on ceremonial occasions, vapors rise, tinted by colored lights. Busts of Senmut, an Egyptian builder of temples, flank the entrances. 5. OUR LADY OF LOURDES CATHEDRAL, 1115 W. River- side Ave., opened on Thanksgiving Day, 1908, is the oldest existing Roman Catholic church in the Inland Empire. It is built of granite and brick in Romanesque style, with two square towers at the corners, 164 feet in height, dominating the main facade. The altars, communion rail, pulpit, and episcopal throne are of Italian marble and Mexican onyx. The woodwork throughout is of quartersawed oak, and the windows of Munich stained glass. The firm of Julian and Williams, architects, designed the cathedral. 6. The SPOKANE PUBLIC LIBRARY (open 9-9 weekdays), 18 S. Cedar St., is a four-story brick structure of neoclassic design, built in 1904 through a grant of the Carnegie Foundation. Preusse and Zittel were the architects. The library contains more than 150,000 volumes. Among the exhibits are a page from the Gutenberg Bible, several rare editions of the Bible, and examples of early printing. The Northwest Room, a section devoted to regional Americana, contains 5,000 volumes and includes original letters and manuscripts in addition to the journals of early explorers and settlers. 7. The MONROE STREET BRIDGE, completed in 1911 at a cost of $500,000, has one of the largest monolithic concrete arches in the world. The single center span measures 281 feet in length, 71 feet in SPOKANE—POINTS~OF INTEREST 1. Federal Bldg. and Post Office 2. Civic Building 3. Art Center 4. Masonic Building 5. OurLadyofLoudresCathedral 6. Public Library 7. Monroe Street Bridge 8. Spokane Falls 9. County Courthouse 10. Fort George Wright 11. Down River Park 12. Conzaga University 13. Centennial Flouring Mill 14. Public Museum 15. Cliff Park 16. Cathedral of St. John the Evangelist 17. Manito Park & Flower Garden

width, 136 feet in height, and weighs 13,430 tons. Small arches above the main piers carry out the graceful design of the bridge; concrete buffalo skulls are affixed to the sides of the roadway. The structure, designed by city engineers with the firm of Cutter and Malgram as consulting architect, has been cited for its beauty; drawings and plans of the bridge are on exhibit at the Sorbonne, Paris. 8. Near SPOKANE FALLS, between Monroe and Division Sts., where the Spokane River plunges over the rocks in a series of roaring cataracts, the Indians used to pitch their tepees. In flood times the falls seen from Monroe Street are a shimmering, rainbow-tinted tumult of mist and spray, framed by the arch of the Post Street Bridge; here the river cascades over the first drop near the bridge—a fall of some 70 feet—boils over the power company's dam, and swirls down between the abutments of the Monroe Street Bridge. 9. The SPOKANE COUNTY COURTHOUSE, Broadway be- tween Madison and Jefferson Sts., was built in 1895 >n modified French Renaissance style; Willis A. Ritchie, the designer of several Washington courthouses, was the architect. A massive square tower with a conical roof surmounts the round-arched main entrance; sharply tapering pin- nacles rise above the edge of the tower, the peak of which is 200 feet high. Flanking the central building are two large wings, with minarets at the corners. The fortress-like county jail, surmounted by a parapet, stands «1t the rej1r. 10. FORT GEORGE WRIGHT, on Government Way, with the Spokane River on the north, east, and south, established in 1894, was named in honor of Colonel George Wright, whose command camped here after defeating the Indians at the battle of Spokane Plains (see Tour la). The fort stands on a 1,500-acre plateau overlooking the river, its red and gray buildings surrounded by a wide parade ground and green lawns. In 1892 Congress was petitioned to approve establishment of the fort, but difficulties in securing land grants and in raising the required $15,000 donation, prevented approval for 2 years. Eleven buildings, to house 5 officers and 70 men, were completed and placed under the com- mand of Captain C. C. Cassieus. The area has been increased to include 9 miles of river frontage and 8 square miles of reservation. Twenty-four buildings house a hos- pital, barracks and officers' quarters, radio training schools, stables, post exchange, and guardhouse. The Fourth Infantry, with a total of 29 officers and 580 enlisted men, occupies the fort. The CCC maintains administrative offices here for 20 camps and 2,800 men, and the fort also serves as headquarters for the summer encampment of the C.M.T.C. and as training grounds for the R.O.T.C. 11. DOWN RIVER PARK, Summit Blvd. and Mission Avenue, northward along Spokane River to Euclid Ave., contains more than 93 acres, including the Municipal Golf Course. It is a very popular spot, not only because of the excellent greens, but also because of the pic- turesque setting. To the west the river swings in a wide arc at the

bottom of a canyon; beyond the river rise pine-covered hills and the ridges along Rimrock Drive. 12. GONZAGA UNIVERSITY, 502 E. Boone Ave., was opened by the Jesuit Fathers in the fall of 1887 with an enrollment of 18 students. The present physical plant of the university includes the main administration building, built in 1889; De Smet Hall, the men's dormi- tory, named for Father Pierre Jean De Smet, the earliest Jesuit mis- sionary to the Northwest Indians; a football stadium, and gymnasium. The five-story administration building is of buff brick, with granite trim. Of eclectic design, it is adorned with Tudor-Gothic detail and has a towering mansard roof in French Renaissance style. The Gonzaga Museum (open by permission of librarian), fourth floor of the administration building, has sections devoted to numismatics, minerals, ethnological specimens, and a special collection of relics of the early mission days. The most treasured exhibits in the collection are a tree stump used by Father Cataldo at his first outdoor Communion service, the baptismal font of scrap tin used at St. Michael's Mission, founded near Spokane by the Jesuits, and a Bible that once belonged to Father De Smet. St. Aloys1us Church, designed in the nineties by the firm of Preusse and Zittel, architects, adjoins the administration building on the west. The colonnaded portico, Corinthian columns, and the rose windows in the east and west transepts harmonize with the richly Romanesque style of architecture. The spires on the two corner turrets are 180 feet high and are surmounted by 9-foot crosses, electrically illuminated when spe- cial services are held at night. 13. The CENTENNIAL FLOURING MILL (open daily except Sat. and Sun. 8-5). between Crestline and Lacey Sts., on E. Trent Road and Broadway Ave., one of the most modern flour-producing mills in the country, occupies an area of 13 acres. The newly erected 10-story plant, constructed of reinforced concrete, is of unusual design, with pilasters ornamenting the spaces between jutted walls. A penthouse extends 80 feet above the uppermost story. Modern machinery capable of producing 3,000 barrels of flour a day has been installed. All types of manufactured feed are produced here, as well as other by-products of grain harvested in the surrounding region. 14. SPOKANE PUBLIC MUSEUM (open 1-5 weekdays, 2-5 Sun.; free), 2316 W. 1st Ave., is maintained by the Eastern Washington State Historical Society in the Grace Campbell Memorial Building, a three-story house in the English half-timbered style, designed by Kirtland K. Cutter. Formerly the house of Mrs. W. W. Powell, the building was dedicated to the memory of Mrs. Powell's mother, a pioneer. Since its beginning in 1916, the museum has grown from a single six- foot-counter exhibit to an institution of importance, with an average of more than 2,000 visitors a month. Many of the relics on display are of great value. Of special interest to the Northwest are the exhibits in mineralogy, geology, paleontology, conchology, entomology, ornithology, and forestry.

The collections housed on the ground floor include many paintings and etchings, Indian implements, and a variety of mounted fish. Several valuable exhibits are sponsored by the Spokane Art Association. Book collections, relics of pioneer days in the Northwest, Indian pottery and basketry may be seen in other rooms in the museum. An old stagecoach, for 30 years in the passenger and mail service of the Northwest, is an interesting item. 15. CLIFF PARK, 13th Ave., between Stevens and Grove Sts., four and a half acres in area, is located on a rocky bluff overlooking the city. Rev1ew Rock, a huge basaltic mound surrounded by a miniature forest of pine and rare shrubs, is the park's most prominent feature. The rock, a half-acre in extent at its base, is the highest point in the city, and its summit, reached by means of steps cut into the rock on the south side, affords an excellent view. 16. The CATHEDRAL OF ST. JOHN THE EVANGELIST (Episcopal), 1125 S. Grand Blvd., was designed in the Gothic style by Whitehouse and Price, architects. Only the main body of the building has been completed. Two towers, terminating in lofty pinnacles, domi- nate the sandstone structure. On either side above the elaborately carved main entrance arch are triangular spandrels, ornamented with the rose as a symbol of love and the pomegranate for unity; interwoven are the heraldic arms of the missionary district and of the bishop of the diocese. The rose window on the facade is 23 feet in diameter. Other windows, not all of which are yet in place, are fine examples of stained-glass work by Charles J. Connick, Boston. Oaken doors form the entrance to the narthex. The interior, designed to give full advantage to the curves and proportions of the aisle arches and the clerestory windows, has a lofty blue ceiling ornamented with gold and aluminum. Medallions in the aisle windows illustrate the develop- ment of Christianity from apostolic times to the present. 17. MANITO PARK AND FLOWER GARDENS, bounded by Bernard St., Grand Blvd., and 17th and 25th Aves., is the largest and most frequented of the city parks. Oiled and graveled drives circle through the park's 90 acres, leading to playgrounds, tennis courts, a bowling green, and spacious tree-shaded lawns. Lily ponds and small mirror-like lakes dot the natural woodland; in summer wild ducks swim on their surface, and in winter the ponds become small skating rinks. The C1ty Nursery, which supplies plants for all 49 city parks, is an important feature, and the sunken gardens are much admired. All shrubs and trees common in the locality are to be found here. For the benefit of visitors, many of the flowers are listed by the month when they may be seen in bloom. POINTS OF INTEREST IN ENVIRONS Liberty Lake, 17 m.; Coulee Dam, 90 m. (see Tour 1a). Bowl and Pitcher, geologic formation, 2.5 m. via Government Way; Deep Creek Canyon, scenic drive, 7 m.; and Long Lake, 7 m. via Nine Mile Road; Mount Spokane State Park, 37 m. (see Tour +a); Geiger Field, United States Army air base, 4.5 m.

Railroad Stations: Union Station, 1713 Pacific Ave. for Northern Pacific Ry., Great Northern Ry., and Union Pacific R.R.; Milwaukee Station, 102 E. 15th St., for Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul & Pacific R.R. Bus Stations: Central Terminal, 14th St. and Pacific Ave., for North Coast Line (Greyhound), Grays Harbor Stages, Bremerton Stages, and connections with points N., S., and E.; Croft Hotel, 1519 Pacific Ave., for Ace Stage Co. for points S.; Tacoma Auto Stage Terminal, 8th St. and Pacific Ave., for Independent Dollar Line, Blue Line, Puyallup-Tacoma Transit Co. and Lake Shore Lines; Lewis Hotel, 1522 Pacific, Ave., for Benjamin Franklin Lines; Rainier National Park Bureau, 776 Commerce St., for National Park Stages. Airports: Mueller-Harkins Airport, 8 m., US 99 (charter service). Piers: Municipal Dock, foot of S. 11th St.; McCormick Terminal, Dock St., for Alaska Transportation Co. Ferries: Point Defiance Park for Gig Harbor and Vashon Island; west end of 6th Ave. for Fox Island and Point Fosdick; Steilacoom for Anderson Island and Long Branch; 1105 Dock St. for Black Ball Line. Taxis: One to five passengers 35c first mile, 20c each additional mile. City Busses: Fare 10c, three tokens for 25c; hour transfers. Accommodations: 14 hotels; cabin camps available. Information Service: Chamber of Commerce, S. 11th and A Sts.; Automobile Club of Washington (AAA), 772 Commerce St.; Rainier National Park Bureau, 776 Commerce St.; Winthrbp Hotel, S. 9th St. and Broadway. Theaters and Motion Picture Houses: Little Theater, 210 N. I St., stage pro- ductions: Temple Theater, 2nd St. and St. Helens Ave., occasional stage produc- tions; 15 motion picture houses. Radio Stations: KMO (1360 kc.); KVI (570 kc). Athletics: Stadium, N. 2nd and E Sts., Lincoln Bowl, S. 34th and G Sts. Golf: Allenmore Golf Course, S. 24th and Cedar Sts., 18 holes, 60c and $1; Highland Golf Course, 1302 N. Vassault, 18 holes, 35c; others on the outskirts of the city. Tennis: Municipal courts at all playfields and at Point Defiance and Lincoln Parks; free. Swimming: YMCA, 714 Market St., 25c; YWCA, 401 Broadway, adults 25c, children 15c; Titlow Beach, municipal salt water lagoon, west end of 6th Ave.; free. Yachting: Tacoma Yacht Club, Point Defiance Park. Riding: Seven riding stables and academies with average rates of 75c first hour, 50c each additional hour. Hunting and Fishing: Hunting in Cascade foothills and on Olympic Peninsula; good fishing in Puget Sound and near-by lakes and streams. Baseball and Football: Athletic Park, 15th and Sprague Sts.; Lincoln Bowl, S. 34th and G Sts. Annual Events: Seattle-Tacoma Yacht Cruise, Jan. 1; Woodbrook Hunt Club's New Year's Hunt; Salmon Fishing Derby Opens, 1st week in Mar.; Salmon Fishing Derby Finals, Point Defiance, 2nd Sun. in June; Rose Show, Scottish Rite Cathedral, June; Pacific Northwest Tennis Tournament, 3rd week in July;

Fleet week, July or Aug.; Pacific Northwest Power Boat Races, 3rd week in Aug.; Dahlia Show, ana week in Sept.; Northwest Army-Nary Football Game, Stadium, Armistice Day. TACOMA (21 alt., 109,408 pop.), lying along the protected waters of Fuget Sound and Commencement Bay, into which the Puyallup River drains, is about midway between Seattle to the north and Olympia to the southwest. Commencement Bay, a fine natural harbor on the Sound, is recognized as one of the country's leading ports. Few cities may boast a more beautiful setting. To the west is the sweep of Puget Sound with wooded bluffs rising from the water's edge, and far to the north- west are the Olympic Mountains, visible in clear weather, a soft line in the haze of summer, a clear-cut jagged ridge in winter. On the land- ward side are the flats of the Puyallup River, the semi-wooded farming area stretching eastward to the foothills, and prairies with patches of woodland. Marking the eastern horizon are the Cascade Mountains, and looming majestically to the southeast is the snow-capped, truncated cone of Mount Rainier—serenely beautiful in midsummer, mysterious when half-shrouded in the gray mists of autumn, and unforgettable if seen at sunset of a clear midwinter day, suffused with an alpine glow that slowly gives way to blue shadows, which creep up the long snowy sides with the sinking of the sun. Along the bay and on the flats are sawmills, factories for lumber products, railroad shops and other industrial establishments, including two important electrochemical plants. Railroad tracks are lined with freight cars and noisy switch engines. The acrid odor of coal smoke and the penetrating smell of tideflats mingle with the resinous fragrance from piles of newly cut lumber. Beyond the sluggish river, smoke rises from burning piles of refuse. Sometimes the air is heavy with the biting, choking smell of sulphur from the pulp mills. To the northwest is the towering smokestack of the Tacoma Smelter, one of the two highest stacks in the world and visible for miles, with its drifting trail of light, lemon-colored smoke. The smelter is operated by the American Smelting and Refining Company in the little town of Ruston, at the edge of Point Defiance Park. Steamships from all parts of the world are busily loading and unloading cargo; puffing tugs with tows of logs, slow freighters, and small pleasure craft and fishing smacks, manned by Euro- pean fishermen, dot the bay. Gulls wheel on flashing white wings or perch on floating logs, old pilings, or dock roofs, on the alert for refuse dumped from the galleys of passing steamers. Always the tang of salt water is in the air, redolent of seaweed on hot summer days, or sharp and fresh when a brisk wind sweeps inland from Puget Sound. It is not easy for the pedestrian to get an impression of the Tacoma water front as a whole; but Bayside Drive, following along the edge of Commence- ment Bay, permits a good over-all view of the harbor itself, the numerous docks, with an occasional freighter moored alongside, the fishermen's docks and small fishing craft; and across, almost at a right angle with the drive, may be seen the Port of Tacoma piers and the terminals and piers owned by the various railroads and industrial concerns.

Rising above the industrial area of the water front is the business district, with modern department stores, hotels, apartment houses, and lofty office buildings alternating with middle-aged structures and dingy shops, second-class hotels, second-hand stores, and chop houses. North, west, and south from the city center, wide boulevards and streets ascend steep hills to a broad plateau, given over to residence districts and com- munity retail centers. Quite justifiably Tacomans are proud of the fine residential sections, notably the north end of the city, on and beyond Prospect Hill, with beautiful modern estates and occasional old-fashioned mansions, dated by hitching posts and mounting blocks. Other attractive residence districts, with clean streets, neat lawns and comfortable houses, are scattered throughout the city. Beautiful, too, are the broad tree- lined streets and the parks, some comprising many acres of shaded lawns and gorgeous flower beds. But Tacoma, like all modern cities, has its slums—dingy old buildings converted into rooming houses, squalid un- sanitary shacks, and crowded, cheap hotels. The people of Tacoma are on the whole a stable population; more than 50 per cent own their own homes, and local pride and interest are strong. About one-fifth of the townspeople are foreign born, and many more are the children of foreign born, representing a variety of ethnic groups. Scandinavians, Germans, and Irish are numerically and culturally important, contributing to the industrial and intellectual life of the entire city. The Swiss and American-born Swiss, a small but active group, have their own societies, wrestling and other clubs, and social hall. The Croatians form a large group, especially in the section now known as Old Town; they work in the smelter and fisheries and are commonly seen in their small fishing smacks. The Poles are another important element in the population; St. Peter's Roman Catholic Church has an entirely Polish congregation, and parts of the services are read in that language. About 700 or 800 Negroes live in Tacoma; many work in the smelter and as employees of the city, and a fair proportion have entered the professions. Indians from Muckleshoot Reservation are often seen in the streets of Tacoma, but the majority live outside the town. Many Filipinos, Chinese, and Japanese are found in the service trades. Truck gardening is a favorite occupation also with the Oriental people, and they peddle their fresh and brightly colored produce about the streets. The city has approximately 50 churches, representing virtually all the great religions, and among them are many of architectural interest. The oldest is St. Peter's Episcopal Church, a simple frame structure built in 1873; at that time a bell was contributed by St. Peter's in Philadelphia, brought around Cape Horn, and placed in a bell tower made by topping a small fir tree; the improvised tower served for many years, and the bell is still in use. Holy Communion Church, on South I Street, is one of the larger Episcopal congregations today. Roman Catholic churches include the beautiful Holy Rosary Church on Tacoma Avenue and Saint Patrick's Church. The Church of the Immaculate Conception, built near Fort Steilacoom in the early 1850's, was moved to Steilacoom

in 1867 and is still in regular use. Old Saint Leo's Catholic Church, which burned in 1921, was built, so it is said, as an auditorium for William Jennings Bryan in 1896. The small Presbyterian Church on 14th Street, built of Tenino sandstone, is one of the finest architecturally in the city. The other Protestant denominations are well represented; among the larger edifices are the First Congregational Church, a Gothic building of smooth-cut sandstone, Central Lutheran Church, First Baptist Church, Immanuel Presbyterian Church, and Unity Temple. The Talmud Torah Synagogue, built in 1925, is an impressive brick and stucco structure. One of the more unusual churches is the Hong Wanji Buddhist Temple, a simple red-brick building, with a lavishly decorated, pagoda-shaped altar within; here Sunya Pratt, said to be the first white Buddhist priestess in the United States, was ordained. Tacoma is about 70 years old. The earliest recorded exploration of the area was made by Captain George Vancouver, who in 1792 sailed his ship up the Sound and named the magnificent mountain peak Rainier, in honor of Peter Rainier, later an admiral in the British Navy. Another early explorer was Lieutenant Cadwalader Ringgold of the Wilkes Expedition, who on May 15, 1841, at the beginning of his surveys, charted and named Commencement Bay. During the nineteenth century the westward march of pioneers, hungry for land, for independence, and for freedom from heavy taxes and high interest rates, had moved steadily forward, halted neither by the Indians nor by forests, swamps, mountains, or deserts. Some of the newcomers, after following the Oregon Trail to its western terminus in the Wil- lamette Valley, crossed the Columbia and pushed northward through trackless forests. Others made their way by a more northerly route through the Cascade Mountains, and still others made the perilous trip around the Horn. In 1853 the first ox-train, consisting of 29 wagons, struggled through the Naches Pass by a route so difficult that, at one point, the emigrants were forced to kill steers and cut strips of hides to use as ropes to lower the wagons down a precipice. Some of these hardy adventurers, both family groups and single men, settled about Parkland. One of the early settlers was Nicholas De Lin, a Swede, who arrived on April 1, 1852, and who shortly thereafter started the first industrial development of the new settlement. With the assistance of a few friends, he cleared land near the end of Gallagher's Gulch, at the junction of two creeks, and built a small sawmill. Soon he was cutting lumber with a water-driven saw, the mill being capable of cutting 2,000 board feet a day, if conditions were favorable for maximum production. It is reported that curious Indians had to be pushed away so that the men could work. Within a year De Lin shipped a cargo of 550,000 board feet of lumber to San Francisco on the brig George Emory, which had waited several months for this first cargo. The Indian uprising in the WTiite River Valley and other areas in 1855 checked the growth of the small community for a short time. Local Indians had been friendly and peaceful, but when one day a small boy

of the community came scurrying to report strange goings on in the longhouse—Indians from across the mountains, excited speeches, a war dance, and a whispered warning from an Indian lad, "Klat-a-wa" ("Go hence!")—the little band of settlers hurriedly loaded a scow and, under cover of darkness, made their way to Fort Steilacoom. It was not long, however, before the Indian hostilities were terminated, and the Commencement Bay band was persuaded, as were other groups, to retire to a reservation and to leave the shores of the bay to the white settlers. Immediately thereafter, De Lin with his family returned and worked his little mill until 1861, when he sold it and moved to Portland. Job Carr, in 1864, homesteaded land on a site called by the Indians Che- baulip, now Old Town. An interesting man was Job Carr, and a most unusual pioneer, who neither smoked, chewed, nor drank, and who insisted on wearing a wig even in this wilderness. If we can believe accounts, his most emphatic exclamation was, "Well, I'll be consarned." Upon his claim he built a fine cabin for himself and his children; this has been moved to Point Defiance Park, a memento of log-cabin days. But much of the credit for promoting the settlement should go to General Morton Matthew McCarver, one of those who followed the pioneers westward and made a business of staking out tracts in the wilderness, giving names to nonexistent streets and selling "cities" to land-hungry people. Having heard of Chebaulip from De Lin in Port- land, and seeing the advantage of holding title to lands that would be needed as terminus for the Northern Pacific Railway, McCarver traveled to Commencement Bay, looked the site over, bought Job Carr's home- stead, and with partners acquired additional land. Then having renamed the settlement Tacoma, he proceeded to boost it as a town with a future. Almost at once the settlers responded to the enthusiastic promotion of McCarver and his associates. A factor of considerable importance was the revival of the lumbering interest. In 1869 a group of San Francisco businessmen had sent a scout north to look for a mill site; and as a result of his report on the Tacoma location, "the best I've seen," the Hanson and Ackerman Mill was con- structed. This started Tacoma toward its future as the lumber capital of the world. Moreover, the advent of the mill started a small-scale boom. Construction workers were followed by mill hands, loggers, shop- keepers, mechanics, bartenders, many bringing their wives and families with them. The village now became a regular port of call for the mail steamer, which heretofore had passed it by; telegraph connections were obtained; and the first electric lights on Puget Sound flickered at the mill. Other building was stimulated by the advent of the mill and the influx of settlers in search of jobs. So sudden and so great was the in- crease in business that a distinct shortage of currency occurred, and to meet this emergency the Hanson and Ackerman Company issued ham- mered-metal discs and rectangles to be used locally as a medium of exchange. These circulated briskly and served as a usable means of ex- changing goods and services.

During the seventies Tacoma began to develop its community activi- ties. In 1870 the name of the town appeared for the first time on a map of the State issued by Hazard Stevens. At about the same time the post office was moved from its inadequate quarters in Job Carr's cabin to the mill office, and the jail, which had been housed in a livery stable, was transferred to a building constructed of two-by-four scantlings for the special purpose of detention of lawbreakers. St. Peter's Church, which claimed to have the oldest bell tower in the United States—a 500-year- old tree trunk—was built in 1873. A hotel and a saloon were opened; it is said the "swearing Deacon," regularly on Sunday nights, put his head over the swinging doors and shouted, "I want every damn one of you to come to church tonight; and you'll each put fifty cents in the collection plate." The year 1873 was a red-letter one in Tacoma history. On July 14, McCarver, who had clung to his idea that the Northern Pacific Railway would select the town for its terminus, and who had therefore continued to buy up land as a speculation venture until he held some 2,000 acres, received a telegram announcing the selection of Tacoma for the terminus. Great was the excitement of the town's 200 inhabitants, even though it was soon revealed that the railroad had decided to locate about a mile and a half south of the town. Thus was New Tacoma started among stumps and logs; but within a short time, before the rails were laid into town, a Steilacoom paper could write: "Three new stores, one black- smith shop, and legions of whiskey mills have sprung into existence in Tacoma since the location of the terminus, and are in full blast. The Johnson Bros., of Seattle, have moved their extensive stock up here; and in a few days the firm of Hoffman and Frost, of Olympia, will move hitherward their tin and hardware establishment." The Pierce County Commissioners authorized the formation of a city government; Thomas Prosch brought the Pacific Tribune from Olympia to Old Tacoma; a doctor came to town, a drugstore was started, more and bigger ships came into the bay, and the first postmaster of New Tacoma, W. H. Fife, was appointed. But 1873 was the year of a panic, whose waves swept westward as far as the village on Commencement Bay. Construction of the Northern Pacific Railway stopped 20 miles south of Tacoma, when the crash swept away most of the investment funds held by Jay Cooke and fellow promoters. The company's contract with the Government called for completion of the line before the end of the year 1873, and to fulfill the contract the 250 white workers and 750 Chinese were called upon to continue work in spite of the fact that a sum of some $10,000 in back wages was due them. They refused to work. When threatened they threw up barricades and said, "Nobody moves this train until we get paid." The men were paid, and on December 16, 1873, the western end of the line from Kalama to Tacoma was completed. The event was cele- brated with much speech making, and in the evening, when the train pulled out with its first load of passengers, furs, and fish, Indians stood in awe of the hiu chick chick.


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T A C O M A 267 Tacoma now began to draw upon the rich resources of the area. In- dustrial development was stimulated by the advent of the railway, and increased profits made new financing comparatively simple. Coal mines were opened up at Wilkeson in 1875, and after the completion of a spur railroad line in 1878, between 100 and 150 tons of coal were mined daily. Giant coal bunkers were built along the bayside, Tacoma becom- ing the most important coaling station on the Pacific Coast. Logging operations moved farther into the woods, and the drone of sawmills be- came a familiar sound. A flour mill, a salmon cannery, and machine shops were established. Population grew, and soon the little cluster of scattered houses became a compact settlement, with a seminary, several churches, more than a score of saloons, a chamber of commerce, and a combine of workers under the banner of the Knights of Labor. Cultural activities also flourished; the first literary society was organized with R. A. Chilberg as president, additional newspapers appeared, and a branch of the YMCA was established. Finally, in 1884, Old Tacoma and New Tacoma were consolidated with a total population of about 4,400, and late in the same year New Tacoma was officially recognized as Tacoma. The early eighties were marked by unemployment; the completion of construction work on the railroad had thrown many out of work, and here as elsewhere there was at times a surplus of workers, who were coming in increasing numbers to the new country. The rising dissatis- faction among the workers was sharpened by the preference of some employers for cheap Chinese labor. White workers objected and turned upon the Chinese, mistakenly holding them responsible for the situation. The widespread feeling crystallized in the organization of the Law and Order League, which on November 5, 1885, forcibly deported the Chinese "without disorder." Later 27 citizens, including some city offi- cials, were brought to trial on charges of participating in the incident, but were acquitted. The next few years were marked by considerable expansion. Speedier and less costly connections with Eastern and Middle Western buyers were sought by leading townsmen. Served only by a spur from the Northern Pacific Railway's new terminus at Portland, the city set out to get direct transcontinental connections. In 1886 work was started on the Stampede Pass Tunnel, over which it was planned to project tracks for a connection with the eastern section of the Nation. Meanwhile, a switchback had been built over the summit of the Cascade Range, and the first train to travel this temporary route reached Tacoma on June 6, 1887. Inauguration of direct transcontinental service on July 3 ful- filled hopes born 20 years before; Tacomans celebrated with three days of revelry. The new rail tie-up resulted in a phenomenal growth of Tacoma enter- prise. The lumber industry was advancing in seven-league boots, pro- duction figures soaring to 87,000,000 board feet for the year 1887. Technological improvements swelled the output, the railroads not only furnishing access to new markets but also using thousands of ties. The

St. Paul and Tacoma Company was organized; it purchased some 80,000 acres of timberland and started to turn out lumber on a large scale. Eastern Washington wheat, which previously had been shipped through Portland, was brought to Tacoma for milling and shipment to Pacific Coast ports; flour mills, warehouses, and grain elevators appeared as if by magic upon the reclaimed tideflats; a smelter was built, new docks were constructed, and steamships and sailing vessels in increasing num- bers made Tacoma a regular port of call. The mines shipped more than 212,000 tons of coal during the autumn of 1887. Rail transportation was further improved the following year by the completion of the Stam- pede Pass Tunnel and the Northern Pacific's establishment of general offices in Tacoma. People flocked into what they envisaged as the coming metropolis. Between 1885 and 1890, the population increased from less than 7,000 to 36,000, and the city found it necessary to improvise shelter for the newcomers. Real-estate prices soared, and speculation was rife. During the fall of 1887, some 1,200 children crowded the schools. The Annie Wright Seminary, a private preparatory school for girls, was founded in 1884. (Present building was erected in 1925). Stores and offices multiplied on the slopes; 1,016 buildings were constructed in 1888, and the cornerstone was laid for the College of Puget Sound. Most pre- tentious of the new buildings was the Tacoma Hotel, designed by Stan- ford White, which was completed at a cost of $267,000. As in other towns marked by rapid growth and easy money, Tacoma had its dives and its honky-tonks. One of the most famous was Harry Morgan's Gambling House and Comique Theater, with bar, dance hall, and variety of methods for separating a drink-befuddled customer from his money. An underground passage to the water front was reputedly used for smuggling narcotics and shanghaiing sailors, or for quick get- aways when trouble threatened. Morgan, shrewd and ruthless, con- trolled local politics for several years. Tacoma politics were lively during these days, with much concern over vice and gambling and much personal rivalry. Other issues were also debated with considerable heat. The Union Labor Party appeared and split upon the question of whether its platform should advocate anarchism or socialism. Conservative Democrats and Republicans joined forces to defeat the Union Labor Party, whose platform included among other proposals a demand for public ownership of street railways, water works, power, and ferries and the right to recall public officials. The labor party was defeated in 1888, after a violent campaign, but today many of the measures it stood for are in operation. Tacoma was on the way toward outshining all other Puget Sound ports, when the crash came in 1893. Of 28 banks only 7 survived. "The commercial universe seemed to be but a house of cards," wrote a local historian. Townspeople "picked blackberries, sawed wood, and dug clams for a livelihood," and building owners became janitors. The Tacoma Trades Council held unemployed demonstrations, a detachment of 600 men marched out of town to join Coxey's Army on its march on Wash-

ington, and a Pierce County Farmers' Alliance sent delegates to the Populist Party Convention at Ellensburg. Although panic had a sober- ing effect on the expansion of industry, factories of various kinds, foundries, machine shops, and many small enterprises were established during the nineties, and the town still looked hopefully towards the future. Observing the Northern Pacific's profitable tie-up with Tacoma, the Great Northern and the Union Pacific extended competing lines to the city. The Northern Pacific established repair shops at Edison, now South Tacoma. The discovery of gold in Alaska put an end to the crisis, and for a short time the future again was rosy. Then Tacoma slowly began to lose ground. The Great Northern Railway acquired control of the Northern Pacific, the Oriental Line was given up, the grain export market was shifted to Seattle; oil replaced coal as fuel for ships, and the coal bunkers were idle. Except for an occasional boat coming to the smelter, the Alaska trade had vanished. Small logging camps and saw- mills slowly gave way to large timber interests, backed by Eastern capital. The citizens of Tacoma were dumbfounded but not ready to admit that their plans for the future had been mere dreams. Agitation for a port commission with provision for modern, municipally owned docks properly equipped and open to shipments at reasonable charges, finally was successful; and the establishment of the Port of Tacoma piers brought some revival of trade. Neighborhood improvement clubs and civic-minded individuals successfully worked for city water works and city power system. These and other measures regained for Tacoma some of the lost ground. The First World War boom in shipbuilding and trade, and the activity resulting from the proximity of Fort Lewis, brought considerable increase in business and industrial development. With this upswing in business came a tremendous rise in the cost of living. This condition stimulated widespread unionization among the workers, which was climaxed in the first year of the war by the general Northwest lumber strike. The agreement that ended the strike in Tacoma granted the eight-hour day and other improved conditions. Again in January 1919, during the Puget Sound shipyard strike involving 40,000 men, 14,000 struck in Tacoma. Some concessions were granted, the strike was called off, and the men went back to work. The years following the war were marked by general disillusionment; the number of unemployed grew, and times were hard. The Farmer- Labor Party was organized in Tacoma and the State in 1921, and during this period the feeling for industrial unionism grew. So militant did Tacoma labor become that Samuel Gompers, national president of the American Federation of Labor, threatened to withdraw the charter of the Tacoma Central Labor Council. This threat and the fact that the Coolidge boom was under way brought a decline in the labor movement; the wood-working unions all but ceased to exist. During these years Tacoma once more stirred with intense activity. The blackboard room in the Rust Building was crowded with specula- tors, $4,000,000 in new industry located in the city, ships lined the


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TACOMA—POII 1. Wright Park 2. Pierce County Courthouse 3. Public Library 4. Pub. Mkt. 5. Tacoma Theatre Building 6. Totem Pole 7. City Hall 8. Stadium High School 9. State Hist. Society Museum 10. Chinese Museum I OF INTEREST 11. College of Puget Sound 12. Narrows Bridge 13. Tacoma Smelter 14. Point Defiance Park 15. St. P. and Tacoma Lbr. Plant 16. Port of Tacoma 17. Indian Sanatorium 18. Water Department Shops

wharves, and the stores were doing a rushing business. Bobbed hair, short skirts, prohibition, bootleg liquor, marathons, flagpole sitters, the Charleston, the new Ford, the talkies, installment buying—a dizzy succession of changes blinded most people to the day of reckoning which was coming, a day forecast in growing unemployment and a nervous, speculative market. Then came 1929 and Black Friday, followed by the years of steadily deepening depression. Tacoma was hard hit. Both lumbering and shipping went into a slump, and, unlike previous depressions when the construc- tion of a railroad, the Alaska gold rush, and the World War had pulled the city out, this depression persisted. "Help Wanted" signs disappeared, and armies of unemployed began a desperate search for jobs. Self-help movements—communal gardening, woodcutting, collective begging— were instituted. Then the city slowly began to revive as the national deflationary trend was halted. The demand for lumber increased and prices rose. Some of the unemployed went back to work, and others received a measure of subsistence from direct relief or from jobs created by the Works Progress Administration. Tacoma achieved a measure of recovery. Today it is a regular port of call for several steamship lines; it has a water front with 67 piers and wharves (according to 1938 report of War Department), the largest of which is owned by the Port of Tacoma; it has a municipally owned power plant, which distributes electricity at one of the lowest rates in the United States; it has a fine school system, many churches of various denominations, excellent hospital facilities, and many social and cultural clubs; it has beautiful parks and golf courses, and lies within easy dis- tance of a great outdoor playground. The hopes of the booming nineties have faded; but the "City of Destiny" has re-adjusted itself to the slower pace, as it sees more clearly how its future is bound up with the State and the Nation. According to the 1938 report prepared by the Board of Engineers of the War Department and the United States Maritime Commission, the volume of water-borne commerce during the period 1925-36 averaged 3,876,491 short tons a year; of the port's total traffic, nearly 78 per cent was accounted for by coastwise shipments and receipts and local traffic (26 per cent), with the lumber industry comprising by far the greater part. The report concludes as follows: "It seems only reasonable to expect that with the greatly improved terminals and the steadily increasing traffic, the port will become a more important gateway not only to the port area and its immediate hinterland but also to the entire country served by the northern railroad systems. "With its present and proposed equipment, its railroad facilities, and its increasing commerce, it is believed that the port will become a more important factor in the development of the commerce of the country." POINTS OF INTEREST 1. WRIGHT PARK, bounded by S. G and S. I Sts. and 6th and Division Aves., is a 27-acre tract of pastoral calm and beauty near the

center of the city. No automobiles are allowed in the park, but parking is permitted on all adjoining streets. A rustic bridge across twin la- goons, where swans float serenely, and winding and shady paths lead from the lagoons to all parts of the park. The arboretum, one of the largest in the State and one of the oldest in the country, contains about 1,200 trees, including more than 300 varieties of native and foreign trees, shrubs, and subtropical plants. A marker gives the history and habitat of each specimen. Near the Yakima entrance to the park are play- grounds, horseshoe courts, and a wading pool. A Conservatory (open 8-4:30; adm. free), fronting S. G St., the gift of W. W. Seymour, former Mayor of Tacoma, houses a large variety of palms, orchids, and other rare and exotic plants. 2. The PIERCE COUNTY COURTHOUSE, corner nth and S. G Sts., a five-story structure of gray Wilkeson and Tenino sandstone, was begun in 1890 and completed in 1893. Architecturally it is an adaptation of the Richardsonian Romanesque style, following a design by Proctor and Dennis, of Tacoma. The main tower, 30 feet square and rising 230 feet to the top of its finials, is faced with an illuminated four-dial clock. 3. The TACOMA PUBLIC LIBRARY (open 9-9 weekdays), 1120 Tacoma Ave., organized in 1886, is housed in a brick building in the French Renaissance style, erected in 1903 with the aid of Carnegie funds; Jardine, Kent and Jardine, of New York, were the architects. The library has approximately 145,000 volumes, including a special col- lection on forest products, lumber, and wood pulp and another on the history of Tacoma and the Northwest. A loan collection of 55,000 mounted pictures is maintained. 4. The PUBLIC MARKETS, Market St. between nth and 13th Sts., unlike the public market maintained in Seattle, are under private ownership entirely. On both sides of the street lessees operate well-kept, sanitary stalls, booths, and stores; and here, as in other coastal cities, may be heard the cries of Oriental and European hucksters and sales- men. Berries from Vashon Island, fruit from the orchards of Puyallup Valley, poultry products from the Brookdale district, fish from Gig Harbor and other points on the sound and from the deep sea, all are to be found in the market place. Fresh green vegetables are brought in every day from the many truck farms in the surrounding agricultural area. 5. The TACOMA THEATER BUILDING, corner 9th St. and Broadway Ave., was designed by Stanford White in the manner of a Norman chateau. Of red brick with white trim and slate roof, it was completed in 1890. It is used now as an office building and motion picture theater, but in its early days many famous artists and lecturers were presented here: Sarah Bernhardt, Henry Irving, Joseph Jefferson, Richard Mansfield, E. H. Sothern, and Maude Adams; Bill Nye, George Francis Train, and Mark Twain. 6. The TOTEM POLE, at 10th and A Sts., is 76 feet high and was carved in Tacoma by Indian sculptors brought from Alaska, since the removal of genuine Alaskan totem poles from the jurisdiction of the

tribe is not permitted. The pole was presented to the city in 1903 by Chester Thorne and W. T. Sheard. According to the plaque at the base of the pole, the figures, from top to bottom, form an impressive record of the tribal succession, glorifying the Eagle Clan of the North. 7. The CITY HALL, S. 7th St. between Pacific Ave. and Commerce St., designed by Heatherton and Mcintosh, local architects, is an adap- tation of the Italian town hall. The attached campanile, instead of tower bells, has a chiming clock with four dials. 8. The STADIUM HIGH SCHOOL, m N. E St., occupies a high bluff overlooking Commencement Bay. First built as a hotel by the Northern Pacific Railroad, the building was converted into a school in 1906, after the interior had been burned out. The structure, designed by Frederick Heath, is a fine example of early French Renaissance archi- tecture, somewhat reminiscent of the Castle of Blois in France. The front step, a slab 20 feet long, 6 feet wide, and 16 inches deep, was cut from a granite boulder found near Fern Hill. Immediately adjoining the high school on the NW. is the Stad1um. Once a wooded gulch, now a great classical amphitheater, it is a beauty spot on the Tacoma shoreline. The bowl, with the grassy slopes above, accommodates 40,000 spectators. General Morton Matthew McCarver, who came to Tacoma from Oregon in 1868, built his first home, a log cabin, on the site now occupied by the Stadium, nearest the present State Historical Society Building. 9. The WASHINGTON STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY MUSEUM (open 9-5 weekdays; 2-5 Sun. and holidays), N. Stadium Way between N. 3rd and 4th Sts., houses the collections of C. P. Ferry and those of the society. The building, of pressed-brick trimmed in sand- stone, was designed by George W. Bullard in the Classic style with Corinthian portico; subsequent alterations were planned by Mock and Morrison. Before the main entrance is an old iron cannon from the Russian gunboat Politkofski, a souvenir of the purchase of Alaska in 1867. The main floor is devoted to the historical exhibits of the society. Indian pottery, baskets, weapons, hunting, and fishing gear vie for attention with nineteenth-century pewter, spinning wheels, and cradles that reached pioneer Washington via Cape Horn in territorial days. Paint- ings and photographs of pioneers and Indians prominently associated with the early history of the Northwest adorn the walls. Exhibits include the mummy of Ankh Unnefir, the oxen and cov- ered wagon used by Ezra Meeker in retracing the Oregon Trail in 1906 and 1911 (when he was an old man); the billiard table upon which George E. Pickett, William Slaughter, and George B. McCIellan played in the days before the Civil War, when all served at Fort Steilacoom as young officers; the pipe belonging to Chief Seattle; the first stove and first piano in Washington Territory; and a large col- lection of personal belongings of Isaac I. Stevens, first Governor of Washington Territory. In the grounds at the rear of the building are the boiler, wheel shaft, and some of the bearings from the Beaver, built

at Blackwell, England, in 1834-5, the first steamboat on the Pacific The vessel was wrecked inside the harbor of Vancouver, B.C., July 26, 1888. 10. The CHINESE MUSEUM (open 2-4 Sun., adm. 27c; evenings by appointment, adm. 58c), N. 26th and Carr Sts., housed in the home of Walter Sutter, contains an extensive collection of Oriental art, brought from Peking in 1937 and said to be from the Dragon Throne room. Seventeen carved teakwood panels overlaid with beaten gold, two of silver worked with kingfisher feathers, ivory carvings, pottery, and an exhibition of 2,000 Chinese dolls are on exhibit. The fireplace is inset with fluorescent rocks that glow softly by means of concealed neon lighting. Sutter's Fr1endsh1p Garden (adm. "just one stone"), adjacent to the museum, begun as a hobby when friends laughingly volunteered to furnish the boulders, is now a collection of neatly labeled rocks, from all the counties of Washington, every State in the Union, and 22 foreign nations representing all the continents. 11. The COLLEGE OF PUGET SOUND (visited by arrange- ment), Warner St. between 13th and 18th Sts., founded in 1903, was moved to its present site in 1924. Formerly a university, it was reor- ganized as a co-educational college of liberal arts in 1914. The largest privately endowed institution in Washington, it is governed by the Puget Sound Conference of the Methodist Episcopal church, under the presidency of Edward Howard Todd since 1913. The red-brick collegiate Gothic building, designed by Sutton, Whitney & Dugan, Tacoma architects, forms an open square on the new 40-acre campus. The college has 22 departments, with an enrollment of 665 students. A permanent Exh1b1t of Pre-Inca Pottery and Text1les, more than 3,000 years old and one of the few collections of Peruvian relics extant, is housed in the C. H. Jones Hall. 12. The TACOMA NARROWS BRIDGE, its deck now fallen but soon to be rebuilt, is reached by way of 6th Avenue and a new highway intersecting the avenue at a point 500 feet west of Mildred Street. The rebuilt bridge will afford a direct highway to the Kitsap Peninsula lying to the north. From the western approach to the bridge is the new section of the Navy Yard Highway, making a greatly shortened route between the Puget Sound Navy Yard at Bremerton and Fort Lewis, 17 miles south of Tacoma. It also will constitute an important link in an attractive route between the mainland and the Olympic Peninsula and Hood Canal country, shortening the distance by more than 100 miles and eliminating the necessity for ferry service in many instances. The bridge, of the suspension type, will be supported from pier towers built of steel and securely anchored in cement submerged in 120 feet of water. Each of these towers stands 425 feet above the water, and each is equipped to carry the strain of the huge suspension cables, which in themselves will weigh in excess of 11,000 tons. It is the third longest center-suspension span in the world, being 2,800 feet in length

between the towers. A vertical clearance above the water will permit the convenient passage of the largest ocean-going vessels. Other details of the reconstruction of the famous bridge are being worked out. Financed through Federal grants, and loans, and by State appro- priations, the bridge is under the Washington State Toll Bridge Auth- ority; toll will be exacted on all traffic until the bridge is paid for. Construction on the original bridge was started November 25, 1938, and was completed in July, 1940. 13. The TACOMA SMELTER (open by appointment), N. 51st St. and Ruston Way, is operated by the American Smelting and Re- fining Company in the little town of Ruston. The smelter refines one- twelfth of the world's copper; and during normal times smelts 60,000 ounces of gold and 450 ounces of silver. The stack, erected in 1917, is the second highest in the world, rising 572 feet, 10 inches above its base. Ruston is surrounded by the city of Tacoma, excepting along its water front, but it retains its political identity; near by is Old Town Dock, owned by the city of Tacoma. 14. POINT DEFIANCE PARK, entrance at 45th and Pearl Sts., on the northern tip of Tacoma Peninsula, comprises 640 acres of natural forest, with an artificial lake and landscaped gardens; it contains re- constructed Fort Nesqually and other points of historic interest. Per- mission to use the area for park purposes was granted by Congress in 1905. The landscaping was done by Hare and Hare, of Kansas City, Missouri. The artificial lake, surrounded by large weeping wil- lows, the rose gardens, and the zoo are outstanding attractions; picnic grounds and the pavilion offer recreational facilities for thousands. The Aquar1um (open 10-7 daily; adm. 5c and 10c; student groups free on Wed.), in the pavilion, is under the supervision of Wilhelm Jordan. In a darkened room, 48 illuminated tanks display representa- tive marine life from local waters; specimens range from dogfish and many varieties of crab to geoducks and other shellfish, sea anemones, sea cucumbers, sea urchins, polyps, jellyfish, and an octopus family. Job Carr's Cab1n (open 8-10 daily), opposite the athletic field on Five Mile Drive, is a reconstruction of the first house built by white men in Tacoma. This unpretentious log cabin was the post office and social center of the early settlement. Fort Nesqually (open 8-10 daily) was moved to its present site and restored in 1934. In 1833 Archibald McDonald of the Hudson's Bay Company established the post in a 15-by-20-foot house of hand- hewn logs, on the beach near what is now Dupont, about 17 miles south of Tacoma. Moved to higher ground soon afterward, it became the center of trade with the Indians and, ultimately, between American settlers and the British. After the arrival of the Beaver in 1836, the fort's commercial importance grew swiftly. Dr. William Frazier Tolmie, surgeon and scientist, became factor in 1843 and moved the trading post still farther inland. A stockade, 250 feet square, was built in 1847 as protection against Indian attack. Trouble came suddenly in 1849, when the Indians, seeing their way of life threatened, made a vigorous

but futile attack under the leadership of Chief Patkanim. Troops dis- patched by Governor Joseph Lane from Fort Vancouver remained at adjacent Fort Steilacoom. Controversy over ownership centered around Fort Nesqually until the Hudson's Bay Company was awarded $650,000 for its holdings on September 10, 1869. The original door hinges and latches, hammered from scrap iron, are used in the restored building. 15. The ST. PAUL AND TACOMA LUMBER PLANT (admis- sion by groups only; permission obtained at general office), 1220 St. Paul Ave., dates back to 1888. The plant and lumber yards, which cover 200 acres, are supplied with logs by a private railroad to the logging camps in the company's approximately 90 thousand acres of timberland. The mill has its own electric powerhouse, 23 miles of railroad tracks in the yards, and a millpond with a capacity of 10,000,000 board feet of logs. Boom men float the logs to the log haul, which draws them up a slide to the log deck, where they are fed into a large band saw by means of a moving carriage. The boards fall off like flitches of bacon and are carried by power-driven rollers to the edger to be squared and to the gang saw to be cut into standard sizes. An endless belt runs over a long table, from which the planks are sorted for the dry kilns or for yard storage. In the planing mill, revolving knives smooth the dried rough lumber at a speed of more than 400 lineal feet a minute. The waste slabs cut from the outside of the logs are made into fuel wood or "hogged" into chipped fuel; fine sawdust goes to the burner. Adjuncts of the main mill are the lath and shingle mills, machine shops, a creosoting plant, and a general store and hotel for employees. Shipping facilities include two large docks, served by three hammer- head cranes and loading sheds with a capacity of forty cars daily. 16. The PORT OF TACOMA owns and operates Pier Number One on the Wapato Waterway, a public pier for the handling of lumber and general cargo, Pier Number Two, with a concrete and steel transit shed, and the grain elevator pier, from which grain is transferred by mechanical devices to the holds of ships. The port's cold-storage plant is equipped with modern mechanical devices and has a capacity of one million cubic feet. 17. The TACOMA (INDIAN) SANATORIUM (open g-12, 3-8 daily), 2002 E. 28th St., formerly the Cushman School, is a Federal institution for the care and education of Indian wards of the Pacific Northwest and Alaska. The 32 buildings occupy 31 acres. The Ind1an Cemetery, adjoining the hospital grounds and over- looking the Puyallup River, is the cemetery of the Puyallup Indians. Among those buried here are Leschi, of the Nesqually; Charlie Satiacum, of the Duwamish; Chief Squatahan, of the Puyallup; Richard Sinnay- wah (Tyee Dick), chief of three tribes—the Cowlitz, the Squally, and the Puyallup; and John Hoate, a wealthy Indian noted for his pot- latches, who died penniless. 18. The TACOMA WATER DEPARTMENT SHOP (open dur- ing business hours), 28th St. and Union Ave., reached by way of Center

Street, a handsome modern plant completed in 1939, houses the city water department warehouse and workshops. Of concrete and steel construction the building is architecturally pleasing and equipped with huge cranes, for handling pipes and valves, and other modern mechanical devices. POINTS OF INTEREST IN ENVIRONS Puyallup Valley, 5 m. (see Tour ^c). McChord Field Army Air Base, 10.2 m., one-fourth mile off US 99, east; U.S. Veterans' Hospital, 11.1 m.; Steilacoom, historic sites, 13m.; Fort Lewis, 16.4 m. (see Tour %c). Rainier National Park, Nisqually Entrance, 54.9 m. (see Tour SD). Gig Harbor, by ferry, 2 m. (see Tour 9 A).

Railroad Station: Union Station, W. end of 11th St. for Great Northern Ry., Northern Pacific Ry., Union Pacific R.R., and Spokane, Portland & Seattle Ry. Bus Station: 5th and Main Sts. for North Bank Highway, North Coast Trans- portation Co., Yacolt, and Yakima (Washington) Motor Coach Lines. Taxis: 25c first mile; 20c each additional mile. Traffic Regulations: Parking in business district, daytime, two-hour limit; on Main St., one-half hour. No U-turns. Accommodations: Two hotels; two cabin camps. Information Service: Chamber of Commerce and Automobile Club of Wash- ington (AAA), Evergreen Hotel, 604 Main St. Motion Picture Houses: Three; occasional road shows. Athletics: Stadium, 40th and Main Sts. Golf: Evergreen Golf Course, 3 m. E. on US 830, 18 holes; greens fee 50c. Siuimming: Memorial Hall, corner 13th St. and Broadway; fee 15c and 20c; monthly rates. Tennis: Municipal court, corner 14th St. and Broadway. Hunting and Fishing: Good hunting in season in near-by foothills; fishing in Columbia River. Annual Events: Columbia River Regatta, July 4, speedboat, fish boat, sailing, and rowing races. VANCOUVER (115 alt., 18,788 pop.), seat of Clark County and oldest settlement in the State, is strategically located on the navigable lower Columbia River, north of Portland, Oregon, in an important agricultural region, within 40 miles of Bonneville Dam. Lumber and paper mills, docks, grain elevators, and canneries are concentrated on the riverside; a little farther back are breweries and other industrial concerns. The streets leading from the banks of the Columbia through the business section are flanked by modern brick and terra-cotta struc- tures, intermingled with buildings reminiscent of the late nineteenth century or of the jerry-building of boom days. In the residential districts are old but substantially constructed houses. One of the more interest- ing old buildings is the Courthouse, made of red brick and gray stone and designed in the style of the seventies. Traversing the city is the Pacific Highway (US 99), east of which is the military reservation, Vancouver Barracks. North and east of the city, streets meander through prune orchards, which spread over the surrounding hills and valleys and extend to the fir and hemlock for- ests. To the south, across the broad river, rise the green hills of Oregon; to the southeast, the white cone of Mount Hood; and to the north, the smaller but equally beautiful Mount St. Helens. Lewis and Clark,

who camped near the mouth of the Lewis River below Sauvies Island in November 1805, describe in their Journal their view of the peak some 70 miles upstream: "Three miles below the Image Canoe Island ... we had a full view of the mountain... [Mount St. Helens]; it rises in the form of a sugar loaf to a great height, and is covered with snow." Inevitably, the westward expansion of Great Britain and of the United States in the early decades of the nineteenth century event- uated in bitter rivalry; and, despite the Treaty of Ghent, signed in 1818, which conceded to both parties equal rights to the Oregon terri- tory, dissension continued. A decade after John Jacob Astor had established Astoria (1811), the Hudson's Bay Company acquired possession of the post and, in 1824, moved headquarters to the site of the present military reservation; Dr. John McLoughlin was named factor, and plans were made for a great depot to serve the area west of the Rocky Mountains. Sir George Simp- son, governor of the company, who had helped select the site, visited the fort in May, 1825, and named it Vancouver for Point Van- couver near by, the upper limit of Lieutenant Broughton's explorations in 1792. The fort eventually covered a rectangular area 750 by 500 feet, enclosed by a stout palisade of 20-foot fir posts, and consisted of 40 wooden buildings—workshops, storehouses, and dwellings—and a stone powder magazine. Opposite the double-ribbed, riveted gates of the main entrance stood the factor's mansion, two 18-pound guns mounted before it. A schoolhouse and a library were provided. Social life centered in the dining hall and in the Bachelors' Hall, a room modeled on a baronial hall of feudal days, its walls covered with weapons, trophies, and all the accouterments of pioneer and savage life. The dominant force in this trading post, 2,000 miles overland from the well-settled communities of the East, was Dr. McLoughlin. This man, who is credited with being an aggressive and efficient administrator, was described by his contemporaries as a towering figure, usually dressed in black; his strong, solemn face was framed by a mass of flowing snow- white hair. To the Indians, he was known as the "White-Headed Eagle." A second appellation, "the despot west of the Rockies," was bestowed upon him because of his ruthlessness in shutting out any competition arising in conflict with such industries as he fostered and developed, and because of his dictatorship over the natives. Apparently, however, his justice was tempered with mercy, and he was always willing to give valuable assistance to new settlers, American as well as British. In 1826 McLoughlin imported sawmill equipment, installed a forge, and planted the first fruit trees along the Columbia River. In 1829 the fort was rebuilt at a more convenient spot, now the site of Pearson Army Airport. Commerce with Hawaii began after the construction of a sailing vessel, the Vancouver. About 300 islanders were imported by the company as laborers and established near the post, at a point where Eighth and Main Streets intersect today; the district was called Kanaka Town. The Islanders kept to themselves in the main, but some

intermarried with whites, and their descendants are said to be num- bered among the residents of present-day Vancouver. Distant as this territory was from the centers of civilization, it was nevertheless within the orbit of scientific investigation. The enthusiastic search of botanists for new specimens led to the Royal Horticultural Society's sending David Douglas to Fort Vancouver in 1825, to study the vegetation of the region. One of the most characteristic trees of the Pacific Northwest, the Douglas fir (which is a "false" hemlock and not a fir at all) was named for Douglas. For the Fort Vancouver library, a stock of books and papers, including copies of the London Times, was secured from England at considerable cost. Modest though the library was, it represented a genuine achievement for the time and place. One of the first Americans to visit the fort was Nathaniel J. Wyeth, of Massachusetts, who arrived in October 1832. With him came John Ball, who opened a school to six pupils in the following year. In 1838 Fathers Francois Norbert Blanchet and Modeste Demers, from Mon- treal, established a Catholic mission. Shocked by the contract marriages made by the fur traders, "a hideous assemblage of persons of both sexes . . . stripped of all moral principles," Blanchet collected a congregation of 40 persons, married 13 couples, and brought about the separation of several couples who were living together without benefit of law or of clergy. On Wyeth's second trip in 1834, he brought with him Jason and Daniel Lee, Methodist missionaries, and Solomon H. Smith, who succeeded Ball as schoolmaster. The panic of 1837 and the subsequent period of depression in the East sent hundreds of families trekking westward to start life anew. Among those who settled in the vicinity of Fort Vancouver were Richard Covington and his wife, who built a cabin a few miles from the fort in the early forties. In November 1843, a party under the direction of Lieutenant John C. Fremont arrived from the East, com- ing down the Columbia River from The Dalles on rafts. Although Fort Vancouver was not, strictly speaking, on the Oregon Trail, it was con- sidered the water terminus; many of the early settlers stopped for supplies and crossed the Columbia here to gain the mouth of the Willamette River, from which point they worked their way upstream to the Willamette Valley. Aside from company employees, the earliest settlers at the townsite was Henry Williamson, of Indiana, who made a clearing in 1845. On March 20, McLoughlin wrote to his superior: "We found a shack built four legs high in the forest west of the fort. I ordered the men to pull the place down and destroy the fence surrounding it." William- son rebuilt his cabin and filed a claim at Oregon City. On Christmas Day, 1845, Amos and Esther Short arrived with their eight children, and shortly thereafter became embroiled in trouble with Williamson, who averred that they had "jumped his claim." The company, acting as arbiter of the dispute, decided against the Short family and refused them supplies.

In the meantime the rivalry for these western lands between Great Britain and the United States had assumed such proportions that the cry, "Fifty-four Forty, or Fight," meant more than a mere political slogan. The domination of the Oregon Country by England was, how- ever, abruptly ended when the Treaty of 1846 definitely established the international boundary at the forty-ninth parallel of latitude. Many company agents, nevertheless, continued to treat the American settlers as squatters. McLoughlin, accused of overt friendliness to Americans, was removed by his superiors. He took land at Willamette Falls (Oregon City) but, being an alien (he did not become a citizen until 1851), he was deprived of the holding and died in impoverished obscurity. Thus ended the life of the man who, by his sympathy with, and aid to, American settlers, helped the United States in its struggle for the Oregon country. Fort Vancouver was officially made a part of the United States defense system in 1848, when the Secretary of War formally recognized it as a military post. In the same year Williamson and others platted a townsite, which they named Vancouver City. The departure of Williamson for California in 1849, in response to the lure for gold, opened the door for controversy over rights to the townsite. Dr. David Gardner laid claim to the site, but was removed from the controversy by the gunshot of Amos Short, who was acquitted of the charge of murder after establishing his assertion that he had acted in defense of his home. The following year Short acquired the townsite through the process of resurveying it. Further honor was bestowed upon him when he was elected a judge of the probate court and given a commission by Governor Joseph Lane. The 1850 census listed 95 houses in the newly organized Clark County, of which Vancouver City was the county seat. Two schools were opened, a ferry franchise was granted for river service, and con- struction began on the Army reservation. R. H. Lansdale, appointed county agent, replatted the townsite, ignoring the lines used in earlier surveys, which started from the "Witness Tree," a giant cottonwood on the river bank. This new survey not only kindled private boundary disputes, but also infringed on the military reserve. One group of local patriots wished to change the name of the town to Columbia City, but the Washington Territorial Legislature ruled, in 1855, that the legal name was, and should remain, Vancouver. Colonel B. L. E. Bonneville arrived at the military reservation, called Columbia Barracks, in 1852, and began intensive development of the Fort. Much later, in 1879, the fort was renamed Vancouver Barracks. The town by this time was settling into the routine of ordinary daily life, with now and then a dramatic interlude. "Judge" Amos Short was drowned in a shipwreck off the Columbia Bar in 1853, while returning with store goods from San Francisco. The first commercial building, Peter Fulkerson's saloon and bowling alley, was opened on July 4, 1854; the Pacific House, started by Esther Short, and the Alta House, located near the boat landing, were also finished that year. In September, the

sheriff rented the courthouse for school use at $3 a month, stipulating, however, that "school was not to interfere with court proceedings." Joseph Brant, the next year, built the two-story Metropolis Hall, the upper story to serve as a dance hall and theater, and the ground floor as a livery stable. Incorporation papers were granted to the town in 1857, at the fourth session of the Territorial legislature, and in 1859 a campaign to name Vancouver as the Territorial capital was inaugurated. A bill actually passed the legislature the next year authorizing the removal of the capital to Vancouver, but no date was stipulated, and at the subsequent election this authorization was rescinded; 1,239 votes were cast for Olympia, and 639 for Vancouver. L. E. V. Coons and John Murphy established the Chronicle in 1860. Gold rushes to eastern Washington and to Idaho during the sixties augmented river traffic and stimulated the town's growth. With the increase in wealth and population came also a greater emphasis on social life, and several public entertainments were staged during the middle sixties. For the Saint Patrick's Day ball at the Alta House in 1866, tickets were sold at $5 each. An amateur dramatic society pre- sented Robert Macaire, a melodrama, and, later, in 1867, Toodles, a comedy. In 1869 a traveling troupe played Man: the Good for Nothing and A Kiss in the Dark. At the same time that the gold-rush boom abated, construction started on the Northern Pacific line from Kalama to Tacoma (1870-3). The extension of the railroad southward from Kalama later increased Van- couver's importance as a shipping center, and railroad ferry service across the Columbia began in the eighties. Following a series of allegedly incendiary fires that razed the business district in June 1889, con- siderable rebuilding was necessary. Construction of the Cascade Locks in 1896 opened navigation to The Dalles and again increased river traffic. McLoughlin had demonstrated the region's suitability for growing fruit, especially prunes. This product was given much publicity during the Spanish-American War when Company G, recruited from this area, was named the "Prune Picked Platoon." Lumbering developed rapidly between 1890 and 1910. Completion of the first railroad bridge across the Columbia below the mouth of the Snake River, in 1902, eliminated the use of ferries for trains con- necting with the south. The Port Commission was organized in 1912. In 1915 construction of the Interstate Highway Bridge was begun jointly by Washington and Oregon, and two years later this final link in the Pacific Highway was completed. During the First World War, Vancouver became the headquarters of the Spruce Division, number- ing 30,000 men, and the construction of lumber plants underwent hurried expansion during this period. The construction of the huge and well-equipped Port of Vancouver Terminal Number Two in 1936 gave a great impetus to commerce and trade; and the erection of a large grain elevator on port properties in 1934 reflects the increasing importance of Vancouver as a shipping


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Photograph courtesy Washington State Progress Corn mission THE OLD AND THE NEW "Caterpillar" tractors, such as pictured below, are gradually replacing mule and horse power in large scale farming operations Photograph courtesy of Caterpillar Tractor Company


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Photograph by Asahel CATTLE ROUNDUP


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SHEEP ON THE RANGE DAIRY FARMSCENE ON YAKIMA PROJECT Photograph courtesy of Department of Interior -


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TO GATHER THE HARVEST MIGRATORY FARM WORKERS PICKING HOPS Photograph courtesy of Department of Interior


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Photograph by Lange; courtesy Farm Security A dm. WIFE OF FARM MIGRANT CHINESE LABORER IN POTATO FIELD Photograph by Rothstein; courtesy of Farm Security Adm.


 * 1) p. 282 (#354) ############################################

Photograph by Langt; courtesy of Farm Security Adm. CLEARING THE LAND In areas where the forests have been cleared, one of the first tasks of the prospective farm families who move in is to clear the land of stumps uprooted by the "bulldozer."

Photograph by Rothstein; courtesy Farm Security Adm. A FARMSTEAD IN THE YAKIMA VALLEY (Hops in Foreground) Photograph by Lange; courtesy Farm Security Adm.


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Photograph courtesy of Department of Interior RECLAMATION Endless stretches of arid land covered with greasewood and sage brush, as pictured above, are being brought into use through the great irrigation projects of the Northwest. Below, a section of a canal on the Yakima Project is shown.

center. Excellent highway and rail connections and the port's situation at the head of deep-water navigation, 83 nautical miles from the Pacific Ocean, make it a logical point for transshipment of ocean-going cargo. Approximately 20 steamship lines make Vancouver a port of call, and it is estimated that more than 200 ocean-going vessels dock annually at the port. Flax and wool products are produced in factories along the water front, where two of the largest mills in the Northwest are located. Other important local plants are the breweries and those engaged in the processing of fruits, nuts, and dairy products. y A factor in the future development of Vancouver, the importance of which cannot yet be judged, is the completion of Bonneville Dam, 39 miles east of the city. This makes possible the shipment of raw materials from a rich inland area to tidewater, and it furnishes cheap power for industrial development. The Aluminum Company of America, with headquarters in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, has been the first to make large-scale industrial use of the Bonneville power; the company has built an enormous aluminum plant at Vancouver, the first of its plants to be located west of the Mississippi. In the short time since its estab- lishment, the capacity of the plant has been doubled. POINTS OF INTEREST 1. The TOLL-FREE INTERSTATE BRIDGE, foot of Wash- ington St., crossing the eastern tip of Hayden Island, spans the Columbia and connects the two northwestern States. From here the white-coned peaks of Mount St. Helens and Mount Rainier may be seen to the north, Mount Adams to the east, and Mount Hood to the southeast. In the foreground are intermingled the old and new buildings of Van- couver, with the docks along the water front; directly across the river, in Oregon, is Jantzen Beach, a popular bathing beach and amusement park. This steel bridge, completed in 1917, was built under the direction of John Lyle Harrison, Kansas City, Missouri. The Oregon Tra1l Marker, at the Washington end of the bridge, was placed in 1916. 2. The ESTHER SHORT PARK, bounded by 6th and 8th Aves. and Columbia and Esther Sts., four acres near the heart of downtown Vancouver, part of the claim taken by Amos and Esther Short in 1845, was deeded by them to the town of Vancouver in 1855. Diagonal walks divide the wooded square, with its many beautiful Douglas firs. A wading pool and playground are popular attractions. The P1oneer Mother Statue, in the northern section of the park, designed by Avard Fairbanks and donated by Mr. and Mrs. E. G. Crawford, is a monumental figure in bronze of a pioneer woman, flint- lock in hand, her three children clinging to her skirts. In memory of Esther Short, it also typifies all the brave mothers of the frontier. A plaque on the monument shows a man plodding along, with his oxen drawing a covered wagon, from which his wife looks out anxiously. The Flour M1ll Wheels, two at either end of the diagonal walks, are made of solid stone, with iron rims. They were brought around the

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Horn from Massachusetts in 1877, to be used in the gristmill of Moore and Stevens. 3. The CLARK COUNTY COURTHOUSE, W. nth St., be- tween Franklin and Grant Sts., completed in 1892, replaced the former one, which burned in 1890. It was designed by W. A. Ritchie, architect. A brick building of four floors, the courthouse contains the various wards of the county jail on its basement floor; the other three floors are devoted to the offices of county government. A new and much larger courthouse is under construction on the north. 4. PORT OF VANCOUVER TERMINAL NUMBER TWO, water front west of bridge, at city limits, was completed in 1936 and is modern in construction and equipment, with berthage for two large ocean-going vessels. The dock stands in deep water, the passage to the sea entirely unobstructed; close to main railroad lines, it is well situated to handle the increasing traffic The Port of Vancouver was established in 1912, and Term1nal Number One was built at the foot of Columbia Street, just below the present Interstate Bridge. Since then the port has expanded to its present value of nearly $2,000,000 in properties and facilities. Along the water front are many of the city's important industrial plants and mills, including the Pacific Coast Linen Mill, the Columbia River Paper Mill and Sawmill, the plants of the Vancouver Plywood and Veneer Company and the Union Bag and Paper Company, and the DuBois Lumber Company Mill, one of the oldest sawmills in Van- couver; back from the water front a short distance is the Interstate Brewery (formerly the Star Brewery). The Term1nal Gra1n Elevator, at the foot of W. 13th St., operated by the Archer-Daniels-Midland Company on land leased from the Port of Vancouver, is one of the largest west of the Mississippi Valley. Built of reinforced concrete and steel, it has a total capacity of more than 2,000,000 bushels. The cost of erection was $1,250,000. 5. SAINT JAMES CHURCH (ROMAN CATHOLIC), 12th St. between Washington and Columbia Sts., a massive brick structure in the Gothic style, was built in 1885. Hedges enclose the carefully tended lawns. The middle, or bell, tower rises more than 150 feet above the 12th Street entrance and is adorned by a cross of white metal. On either side is a lower tower, some 80 feet above street level. The main altar of Saint James is a beautifully executed piece of carved oak, VANCOUVER—POINTS OF INTEREST 1. Interstate Bridge 2. Esther Short Park 3. Clark County Courthouse 4. Port of Vancouver 5. Saint James Church 6. Vancouver Barracks 7. Public Library 8. Leverich Park 9. State School for the Blind 10. Old City Cemetery 11. State School for the Deaf

imported from Belgium. In a crypt beneath the platform before the altar lie the remains of the first two bishops of the Nesqually Diocese: A. M. A. Blanchet, V. G., and Aegidius Junger, V. G. Fort Vancouver became the seat of the first diocese north of the Columbia River in 1850. Old Saint James Church, built in Vancouver Barracks in that year, was destroyed by fire in 1889. North of the barracks, at the northeast corner and close to the military cemetery are Sa1nt James Acres, where are buried several of the devoted nuns who taught and worked with the pioneers in the Vancouver region. Most of this ground was purchased by Bishop Blanchet; a small addit- ional plot was added bv Bishop Junger. 6. The VANCOUVER BARRACKS, bounded by 5th St. (Ever- green Highway), 4th Plain Road, and E. and W. Reserve Sts., was established in 1848 on a plot four miles square. In the reservation, now reduced to one square mile, are the Pearson Airport, the reservation monument, and the first apple tree planted in the region. Number Two Barracks, in Officers' Row, was one of the earliest of the 300 buildings on the reserve. Its log walls have been sheathed with siding, but the narrow windows, angular outlines, and peaked roof with brick chimneys at each end are characteristic of domestic buildings of the period. When young Ulysses S. Grant was stationed here in 1852-3, he planted a crop of potatoes in the near-by lowlands to augment his meager income, but spring floods washed his crop away. At the time, potatoes cost $45 per hundred pounds. The Grant Memor1al, at 5th St., southeast of the barracks, was erected in 1927 by the Hill Military Academy, Portland, Oregon, in honor of the Civil War general and his potato patch. Pearson Army A1rport, corner 5th Ave. and E. Reserve St., base of the U.S. Army Reserve Air Corps, measures 2,100 by 5,200 feet. The hangars, shops, and administration buildings are at the east end of the field. Here ended the 63-hour North Pole flight of the three Russians who hopped off from Moscow on June 18, 1937, to test the feasibility of air transportation in the Arctic The Reservat1on Monument, E. 7th Ave. and T St., erected by the Washington State Historical Society, commemorates important events in Washington's early history and the establishment of the reserve. The F1rst Apple Tree, also at E 7th Ave. and T St., was planted in 1826 by Dr. John McLoughlin. According to accounts Captain Aemilius Simpson, a dinner guest of Dr. McLoughlin, presented the factor with several appleseeds given him by a woman friend in London and suggested that they might blossom in the wilderness. McLoughlin carefully nurtured the seeds into shoots, which he planted inside the stockade. 7. The PUBLIC LIBRARY (open 1-9 weekdays; 2-5 Sun.), Main St. between 15th and 16th Sts., a small red-brick building with ivy- festooned walls, was built in 1910 with the aid of Carnegie funds. It has 18,000 volumes, including a sizable collection of books on early Northwest history.

On the front lawn stands a large Cottonwood, a cutting from the witness tree, which marked the spot where Lewis and Clark landed in 1805. From this spot, survey lines started when the first town plat, covering ten square miles, was made. The famous Witness Tree was washed away by a freshet in 1912. 8. LEVERICH PARK, N. of 39th St., E. of Pacific Highway, an L-shaped area of about 33V2 acres, lying partly within and just north of the city limits, was deeded to the city for park purposes by Mrs. Anna Leverich. It was established as a municipal park in 1931; and in the same year an obelisk was erected and a Douglas fir planted by the Columbia District Federation of Women's Clubs, in anticipation of the bicentennial celebration of George Washington's birth. In accord- ance with the terms of the deed, the natural beauty of the area has been preserved as much as possible. Burnt Bridge Creek, branching out among low hills and small groves of native firs, deciduous trees, and occasional cedars, gives the park a truly sylvan charm. About three acres in the southwest section have been developed into an athletic field around the grandstand, which is known as Kiggins Bowl in honor of John P. Kiggins, pioneer citizen and mayor of Vancouver for a number of years. Within the last few years a large Works Progress Adminis- tration project has constructed recreational facilities. Cov1ngton House (open 11-4, 2nd and 4th Tues. each month), 39th and Main Sts., at the SW. corner of the park, the oldest house in the State, was built by Richard Covington between 1840 and 1845 on his homestead about a mile north of what is now Orchards. In 1931 the house was taken down, each piece numbered, and the whole rebuilt on its present site. The house, of roughly squared logs dovetailed at the corners, is covered with clapboard siding and has a sharply gabled roof. The Covingtons kept a kind of boarding school, and their home, containing the first piano in the region, was a social center for young Army officers and trading company officials in the early days. 9. The STATE SCHOOL FOR THE BLIND [open 9-12; 2-5 daily), 2214 E. 13th St., houses most of its school activities in the four- story, red-brick administration building. The two dormitories and the primary school, erected in 1938, are also of brick, trimmed with Tenino sandstone. The school enrolls about 100 students and has a faculty of 16; vocational, musical, and mechanical training supplement academic instruction. The institution was established in 1905 by the State legisla- ture and, until 1913, cared for both the deaf and the blind. 10. The OLD CITY CEMETERY, east of the reservation, between 10th and 13th Sts., accessible by Winchell Ave. lies on a gentle slope originally part of the Vancouver Barracks. Its moss-covered tombstones commemorate many pioneer settlers, including members of the Short family. 11. The STATE SCHOOL FOR THE DEAF (open 8-12; 1-3:30 daily), 2901 E. 7th St., directly east of the military reserve on a slight rise overlooking the Columbia River, was founded in 1886. The seven

modern buildings, dominated by the three-story, buff-brick administra- tion building, are surrounded by well-kept lawns bordered with trees and shrubs. The Reverend W. D. McFarland of Tacoma is in charge of the school, in which both oral and manual methods of education are used. A literary society, athletic clubs, social clubs, and motion pictures provide activities and entertainment for the students. POINTS OF INTEREST IN ENVIRONS Jantzen Beach, Oregon, 1 m.\ Portland, Orgeon, 8 m. Crown-Willamette Paper Mills, Camas, 14.2 m.; Beacon Rock, 36 m.; Bonneville Dam, 39.6 m.\ Bridge of the Gods, 41.8 m. (see Tour ja).

Railroad Stations: West end of Main St. for Union Pacific R.R.; 2nd Ave. N. and Oak St. for Northern Pacific Ry.; 15th Ave. N. and Cherry St. for Walla Walla R.R. Bus Station: 1st Ave. S. and Poplar St. for Union Pacific Stages and Wash- ington Motor Coach System. Airport: 2.5 m. NE. for United Air Lines; taxi fare $1; 15 min. Taxis: 15c first mile; 10c each additional mile. City Busses and College Place Bus: Fare 10c; loading zones on Main St. at 1 st, 2nd, and 6th Aves. Traffic Regulations: Double or all-night parking prohibited; no U-turns. Accommodations: Five hotels; tourist cabins; trailer facilities. Information Service: Automobile Club of Washington (AAA), Marcus Whitman Hotel, 2nd Ave. N. and Rose St.; Chamber of Commerce, City Hall, 3rd Ave., S. Motion Picture Houses: Three, local productions and occasional road shows. Radio Station: KUJ (1420 kc). Athletics: Stadium, foot of N. Idaho St. Golf: Walla Walla Country Club, 9th Ave. S., 9 holes, greens fee $1 weekdays, $1.50 Sun. and holidays. Tennis: Pioneer Park, Alder and McKinley Sts.; Jefferson Park, 9th Ave. S. and Malcolm St.; Green Park, Alvarado Terrace and Division St. Swimming and Wading: Municipal pools at Pioneer Park, Alder and McKinley Sts.; Jefferson Park, 9th Ave. S. and Malcolm St.; Washington Park, 9th Ave. N. and Cherry St.; and Green Park, Division St. and Alvarado Terrace. Natatorium, Wilbur and Granville Sts., 10c and 25c; summer months. Annual Events: Walla Walla Civic Symphony Concerts, winter-spring; South- eastern Washington fair, Sept.; Christmas Show at State Penitentiary. WALLA WALLA (954 alt., 18,109 pop.), seat of Walla Walla County, lies in the center of the rich farm lands of the Walla Walla Valley. To the southeast rise the hazy peaks of the Blue Mountains; northward, gently rolling hills fade into the distance. Many streams water the valley, Mill Creek meandering through the very heart of the city. The pioneers retained the Indian name for the site, Walla Walla, which means the "place of many waters," a name eminently suited to the region. From its beginning as a trading and distributing point, the city has grown as circumstances dictated, not according to plan. Today com- mercial and industrial buildings mingle freely with residences. Here and there among the newer, more pretentious structures, are a few old stores and office buildings, relics of the boom days of the sixties and seventies. The residential streets, quiet and peaceful, are bordered by many trees, which change kaleidoscopically with the seasons; from

brilliant green of spring through the heavy fragrance of locust trees in bloom, to the dark lacing of autumn with its cascades of yellow leaves, and, finally, winter, with snow and the bare-brown sheen of branches. In settings of neat green lawns, brightened by seasonal flowers and shrubbery, are homes representing various adaptations—Colonial, English, and American farm houses. Several church spires rise above the tops of the trees. The Walla Walla region has been intimately bound up with the his- tory of the Northwest. Before the coming of the white men, an Indian trail ran through the valley, its course approximating the location of Main Street today. The valley on Mill Creek was a favored council ground of the Indians. Six miles west, in the "valley of the rye grass," Marcus Whitman and his wife, Narcissa, set up a mission in 1836, and for a decade carried on their efforts to convert the Indians to the belief and the ways of the white man. This first period of settlement, however, ended in 1847, when Indians massacred the Whitmans. The town of Walla Walla was founded at the end of the Indian wars of 1855-8. On the spot where the city now stands, Governor Isaac I. Stevens, as superintendent of Indian Affairs, and Joel Palmer, superintendent of Indian Affairs for Oregon, held a great council, to which were invited Kamiakin and Ow-hi of the Yakima, Peu-peu-mox- mox of the Walla Walla, a young chief of the Cayuse, and Lawyer, Looking Glass, Joseph, and Timothy of the Nez Perce, and many others. For days, supplies and gifts that had been brought upriver from Port- land to the Hudson's Bay fort, now Wallula, came overland by pack- train and wagons to the council grounds. Roasting sticks for barbecues were driven. Only about 100 white men attended, including 50 soldiers who camped across the creek. Of the Indians present, the Nez Perce, with more than 2,000 tribesmen, were numerically the strongest. Almost 3,000 horses were pastured on the surrounding grasslands. The council opened impressively on May 29, 1855, with Governor Stevens outlining the benefits of schools, stores, mills, and supervised husbandry for the tribes accepting the reservations in the Yakima Country and in the Nez Perce country. The Indians, however, pleaded for time, stalled, and became resentful, and more than a week passed without any agreement. According to accounts, Stevens had almost persuaded them to accept the plan of reservations, when the Nez Perce chief, Looking Glass, rode in, after a long absence in the country of the Blackfeet. Not deigning to dismount, the chief listened until he learned what had taken place, and then cried out in anger and disappointment: "My people, what have you done? While I was gone you have sold my country. I have come home, and there is not left for me a place on which to pitch my lodge. Go home to your lodges, I will talk with you." In spite of the opposition of Looking Glass, Stevens won partial acceptance of the three treaties, which were signed in June 1855. Many of the Indians north of the Snake River persisted in their hostility to the settlers. Pioneers who had planned to establish homes

farther north remained under protection of the fort that had been constructed at Mill Creek as a defense against possible Indian attacks. A settlement sprang up as the immigrants took homesteads, tilled the fertile soil, and marketed their products at the garrison. The village for a short time was called Steptoeville after Colonel Steptoe, who had made his winter quarters at the fort in 1856. Two years later, the name of the settlement was established as Walla Walla. In 1862 the town was laid out and incorporated. In the meantime various factors had contributed to the growth of the settlement. The beginning of construction on the Mullan Military Road between Wallula and Fort Benton, Montana, in 1858, and the lifting of the ban on immigration into the territory north of the Snake River shortly thereafter, brought several new families to the rich plateau lands. Discovery of gold in Idaho, a few days' travel from Walla Walla, brought transients through the valley during the sixties and trans- formed the thriving little settlement into a boom town. When in 1861 news of the gold strike at Orofino, in present Idaho, reached other parts of the Nation, gold seekers bought their supplies at Walla Walla. Then the precious metal was found in other Idaho areas: Boise Basin, Powder River, Salmon, Owyhee, Kootenai, and Blackfoot. Thousands of men surged into Walla Walla en route to the gold fields, and those who struck it rich returned to Walla Walla, which became the miners' winter resort. Hotels, stores, livery stables, saloons, and dance halls, hurriedly constructed, flourished as the lucky prospectors freely spent the valuable dust from their pouches. At the Pioneer Race Track, three miles away, there was frenzied betting for big stakes. Neither the excessive prices demanded for supplies and services, nor a period of meat shortage, due to the death of cattle on near-by ranges during the severe winter of 1861, appeared to check the rush. By October 1862, fifty new buildings had been erected on the main streets, and 30 more were under construction. Stages were operated between the town and The Dalles, Wallula, and Lewiston; Wells-Fargo inaugurated stage service to the mines. The Mullan military road was completed, and mail service started to Elk City, Pierce City, and Hell Gate. The courts proved a feeble defense of law and order in these pioneer days of riches and recklessness. Sheepherders and cattlemen squabbled over range and water rights; well-organized gangs of rustlers drove stolen cattle over the Canadian border. Dance halls and saloons pros- pered, for the cowboys from the range and miners from the creeks were easy spenders. The ineffectiveness of the courts and officers of the law resulted in the organization of vigilante groups in 1865. They took the law into their hands, and soon the neighboring trees bore gruesome fruits; in one month several men were hanged. The law could no longer be broken with impunity in Walla Walla. The reform wave even forced saloon- keepers to close their bars on Sundays. In 1865 the troops stationed at the fort were removed, for Indian attacks no longer threatened.

Many of the new arrivals, who were by this time coming in a steady stream, turned to agriculture for means of livelihood. At first, farms were located only alongside deep or wide streams, and orchards were planted only in the valleys. But when settlers discovered, in the late seventies, that the uplands were arable without irrigation, golden waves of wheat began to cover the hills. Cattle raising for beef began to be supplemented by dairying. Improved transportation facilities gave the region access to wider markets for its agricultural products. Walla Walla was well on its way toward becoming a regional center. Throughout the sixties forward-looking citizens began working for a better order and balance in the life of the community. Classes were held in a rented room until a regular school building was constructed. A post office was established, a packing plant and a flour mill were built in 1859, and additional mills were opened within the next three years. In 1861 one of the earliest journals between the Missouri and Cascades, the Washington Statesman (combined with the Walla Walla Union in 1914), started publication. A fire razed the older portions of the city in 1865, and more substantial structures were constructed to replace those destroyed. The first courthouse was erected in 1867. Two years later the Baker-Boyer Bank, earliest in the Territory, was established. By this time several churches had been organized. Walla Walla secured its first telegraphic service in the seventies. A far more sensational event, and one which foreshadowed significant changes, was the completion, in 1875, of Dr. D. S. Baker's steam rail- way, which linked the city to Wallula on the Columbia River. An engine was brought around Cape Horn by boat from Pittsburgh to push the "hearse," as the passenger car was called. Foreseeing bitter competition from this crude-looking monster, teamsters promptly reduced their exorbitant freight rates. Cheaper and speedier transportation facil- ities gave the region access to new markets for its farm produce. As a consequence, additional acreage was broken to the plow, and planted to crops, especially to wheat. In 1878, Dr. Baker was able to ship, via the railroad, river barge, and the schooner, Alice D. Cooper, 66,000 bushels of wheat to England. Arrival of transcontinental railroad lines ushered in an era of great prosperity. The history of succeeding decades was largely written in terms of expansion of agriculture and related industries. Granaries and mills were built to handle the wheat produced in ever-increasing quantities in the region; new canneries and factories, required for the marketing of fruit, produce, poultry, and dairy products, were opened. Streetcar tracks were laid and telephone lines were installed; an opera house was constructed and opened with considerable display. Today, organizations like the Grange, Chamber of Commerce, and Co-operative and privately owned stores have replaced the prospector, trader, and dance hall proprietor. Modern schools, including a college which has achieved considerable distinction, a city library, and numerous motion picture theaters afford social and cultural outlets for the community. Several congregations established in Walla Walla during the nineteenth

century have built new edifices during the past few decades; these include St. Paul's Episcopal Church, the Congregational Church, First Presbyterian, Central Christian, St. Patrick's, Pioneer Methodist, and the White Temple Baptist Church. A popular event in Walla Walla is the Christmas Show at the State Penitentiary. As a rule the entertainment takes the form of a vaudeville performance, with inmates playing all the parts. In August 1936, Walla Walla celebrated the Whitman Centennial, honoring the establishment of Dr. Marcus Whitman's mission beside the Walla Walla River. The festival included Mother Whitman's Day, in honor of Narcissa Whitman; a colorful parade depicting "Wagons West"; and a Doctor's Day, in memory of the first American physician to practice in the Northwest. Old settlers and their descendants thronged from afar to join in the celebration. POINTS OF INTEREST The SITE OF THE SECOND FORT WALLA WALLA, corner of Main and Colville Sts., is marked by a plaque on the A. M. Jensen Building. The fort was established in 1856, but was removed in 1858 to the present site of the United States Veterans Hospital. The BAKER-BOYER NATIONAL BANK, corner of 2nd Ave. and Main St., established in November 1869, is the oldest bank in the State, and still operates under its original charter. WHITMAN COLLEGE, between Isaacs and Boyer Aves. and College and Stanton Sts. was chartered by the Washington Territorial legislature in 1859 and is the oldest institution of higher learning in the State. Originally a seminary, it was founded by Cushing Eells, Con- gregational missionary, in honor of his friend and fellow missionary, Dr. Marcus Whitman, and his wife, Narcissa Prentiss Whitman. The college, co-educational and non-sectarian, is privately endowed and receives no aid from church or State. The average enrollment is betwen 500 and 600 students, chosen by a selective admission system. The campus covers an area of about 50 acres, shaded by locust, elm, and birch trees and bisected by College Creek. Nine buildings house the college. Wh1tman Memor1al Bu1ld1ng, corner Boyer Ave. and College St., contains classrooms and the offices of administration. It was built in 1899, a gift of Dr. D. K. Pearsons of Chicago. B1ll1ngs Hall, Boyer Ave. between College and Stanton Sts., is devoted to the use of the department of physics, biology, and chemistry. Con- servatory of Mus1c, corner Boyer Ave. and Park St., a large, ivy- covered, brick building, was constructed in 1910. Instruction is given in theory of music and in vocal and instrumental music, including band and orchestra. Other campus buildings are Reynolds Hall, the college library, Lyman House, first-year men's dormitory, Prent1ss Hall, dormitory for all out-of-town women students, and the Gymnas1um. The presi- dent's house and the home of Dr. S. B. L. Penrose, president emeritus of the college, are also on the campus.

The Wh1tman Museum (open by permission) gives special atten- tion to representative material of the Pacific Northwest. Exhibits include letters, photographs, tools, and documents of the Whitmans, Mrs. Whitman's diary, an 1835 map of the Nation, a map of the Oregon Trail, and the Journal of Lieutenant John Mullan, builder of the Mullan Military Road. Also included are collections in geology and paleontology, zoology and botany, anthropology and ethnology. The collections are housed in Billings Hall, Memorial Building, and the Conservatory of Music. Ch1ef Lawyer Monument, on the campus near Lyman House, a 17-ton rock with a bronze tablet, commemorates the Indian chieftain who befriended Governor Stevens and gave him the protection of the Nez Perce tribe in 1855. The PUBLIC LIBRARY (open 10-9 weekdays), Palouse St. between Alder and Poplar Sts., occupies a red-brick building in a triangular lawn. It is a continuation of the third oldest library in the State. The building was opened in 1905 with the aid of a Carnegie grant. It contains 29,000 volumes and special collections on art and Northwest history. ST. PAUL'S EPISCOPAL CHURCH, Birch and Catherine Sts., is a simple wood and stone building, with two fine stained glnss windows brought from Boston for the original church building. It was con- structed in 1902, replacing the church built in 1870 after the Reverend Lemuel H. Wells had organized a congregation. Aided by the architects, Cutter and Malmgren, Wells, who was made Bishop of Spokane in '893, planned the present structure, and then joined in the manual labor of construction. The PIONEER METHODIST CHURCH, Colville and Poplar Sts., was founded on October n, 1859, and grew so rapidly that four removals to larger quarters were necessary in as many decades. The present building was completed in 1925 at a cost of $50,000; it has a large electric pipe organ. ST. PATRICK'S ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH, W. Alder St. and 6th Ave. S., was constructed in 1870. The interior was de- stroyed by fire in 1916 and has been completely renewed. Above the white marble altar is a large stained-glass window, costing $2,500, which was imported from Munich together with the two companion windows on either side of the altar. POINTS OF INTEREST IN ENVIRONS U. S. Veterans Hospital, formerly U. S. Fort Walla Walla, 0.5 m.\ State Peni- tentiary, 0.5 m.; Ransom Clark Cabin, pioneer structure, 3 m.; site of Whitman massacre, 6 m.\ Blue Mountains (Umatilla National Forest), 15 m.\ Palouse Falls, 65 m.\ Skyline Drive, 75 m.\ Snake River Canyon, 85 m. (see Tour 2A).

Railroad Station: Columbia St., at foot of Kittitas St., for Great Northern Ry. Bus Station: 132 South Mission St., for the Washington Motor Coach System. Taxis: Business section to any part of town 35c, two passengers or more 50c across town 50c City Busses: In Wenatchee and to Apple City, 2 m., fare 10c; three tokens for 25c. Traffic Regulations: Right and left turns permitted at all intersections except off Wenatchee Ave., at Orondo, Palouse, and First Sts. Parking in business district limited to one hour. Accommodations: Five hotels; tourist camps with cabins and trailer facilities. Information Service: Wenatchee Chamber of Commerce, 2nd floor Chamber of Commerce BIdg.; Automobile Club of Washington and AAA, 106 Wenatchee Ave., N. Headquarters of Wenatchee National Forest, Post Office Bldg. Motion Picture Houses and Concert Halls: Wenatchee Auditorium, Wenatchee Ave., and Second St.; four motion picture houses; occasional road shows and stock companies. Radio Station: KPQ (1490 kc). Athletics: Baseball park, S. Orondo at city limits. Swimming: Muncipal bathing pool, at the foot of 5th St.; 9c, children; 15c, adults; children free, mornings. Golf: Wenatchee Golf and Country Club, East Wenatchee, RD 3. Tennis: Municipal courts, at foot of 5th St. Annual Event: Apple Blossom Festival, usually in May. WENATCHEE (639 alt., 11,620 pop.), seat of Chelan County, cen- ter of a great fruit-growing region and point of entrance to a beautiful recreation area, is in almost the exact center of the State, just below the confluence of the Wenatchee and Columbia Rivers. Mountain ranges tower all around, protecting the Wenatchee Valley with its seemingly endless orchards. Rising west of the city, practically from its edges, are high, treeless, yellow-brown hills—cut by deep, wide erosion gullies, where purple shadows lie. Beyond the treeless hills begin the wooded foothills, and beyond these the snow-crested Cascades, with their evergreen forests. The city merges into the orchard areas; houses become more scattered, but there is no definite break. Apples made Wenatchee, and apples main- tain it; it is surrounded by a sea of orchards, covered in spring with a pink foam of blossoms, mile upon mile, filling the valleys and covering the slopes; the air of the town is sweet with the fragrance. In summer and fall the spicy odor of apples is everywhere. In the Wenatchee Valley proper and the four fertile valleys for which Wenatchee is a distributing point—the Entiat, Lake Chelan, Methow, and Okanogan valleys— about 50,000 acres are under intensive cultivation, aided by huge pump and gravity irrigation systems. The yield per acre in the apple orchards

is probably higher than anywhere else in the world, and the quality of the product is famous; the Delicious, the Winesap, the Jonathan, the Stayman, and other excellent varieties are grown in the Wenatchee district. The town itself, though small, is compact and, partly because of this, somewhat cosmopolitan in appearance; there is continuous activity on Wenatchee Avenue, the broad main street running north and south with the river. East of the main business district, toward the Columbia, are immense warehouses, fruit-packing and cold-storage plants, and many railroad tracks lined with yellow refrigeration cars, all plainly showing the importance of the fruit-growing industry in the life of the city. The Great Northern changes from steam to electric at Wen- atchee, and it is no uncommon sight to see a hundred freight cars climbing the steep grade. To the west is the main residential area, with slightly sloping paved streets, shaded by many trees; enormous weeping willows appear here and there. The homes all have neat lawns with flower gardens and, usually, small vegetable gardens at the back. Across the river is the section known as East Wenatchee, (268 pop.), an integral part of the town. The whole of Wenatchee gives the impression of being very clean. In May the town turns out for the Apple Blossom Festival; visitors come in crowds to see the parade of flower-trimmed floats and to live for a while in a city bright and sweet with blossoms. With the opening of the harvest season, migratory workers begin to arrive and continue through September into October; they are mostly American stock, with some Croatians, Germans, Armenians, and Scandinavians. "Cider for Sale" signs show up in the town, and fruits, particularly apples, are everywhere. Wenatchee is a busy place; the town is crowded; business houses do a rushing business; the fruit workers throng the streets. Finally the harvest ends, the champion in the apple-packing contest is declared, and the exodus begins. Many of the migratory workers leave the valley, but a large number remain from season to season, finding a livelihood as best they can during the winter months. As early as 1811, fur traders from the North West Fur Company entered the Wenatchee Valley to trap and trade with the Indians. In 1863, Father Respari, a Catholic priest, began his missionary work with the Indians and was followed some 20 years later by Father De Grassi, who built a log cabin on the Wenatchee River, near the present town of Cashmere. The first irrigation was carried on in the Wenatchee Valley by Father De Grassi, who taught the Indians to farm and to use water on their gardens. Miners returning from the Fraser River gold rush came to the neighborhood of what is now Wenatchee in 1860 and discovered some gold; here Chinese placer miners in early days worked the sand and gravel banks along the Columbia. Many Indian trails, used by stock- men, the Government supply trains, and the surveying parties for the railroads, centered in the Wenatchee Valley, the old council ground of the Indians. Gradually the valley became the trading center for miners

and early settlers from Walla Walla and the Puget Sound country and, during the 1880's, for wagon trains from the East. Don Carlos Corbett founded the town of Wenatchee in 1888, and shortly afterward a sawmill, a hotel, and post office were established. In 1892 the town moved from its original site to the banks of the Columbia River, in order to be near the Great Northern Railroad, which reached that point on October 17, 1892—an event occasioning a great celebration. Prior to the coming of the railroad, few settlers located in the valley. Water was needed to make the fertile but arid land bear crops. Several irrigation projects of limited capacity were built by the early settlers, and these demonstrated the possibilities of the rich volcanic soil around Wenatchee. But the greater part of the valley remained a desert until the construction of the Highline Canal in 1903 by irrigation men from the Yakima country. This canal, winding about hillsides and tunneling through mountains, distributes water for a distance of 25 miles, irrigat- ing approximately 20,000 acres. The building of the Columbia River Bridge in 1908 was another major event. Nature had provided the Wenatchee country with the soil, the sunshine and the long growing season perfectly adapted to fruit growing; now, with water, orcharding began to develop into a highly specialized industry. A few years later the valley was covered with row upon row of young fruit trees. Apples were shipped to all parts of the world, and more and more people, learning of "the valley of the apples," came here to stay. Within 25 years, Wenatchee became the center of the greatest apple-producing region in the world. At present, this fruit industry employs more than 10,000 persons in the work of caring for the orchards or harvesting the crop. An average of 23,000 carloads of apples are shipped from the city annually. In addition, each year about 5,000,000 boxes are put in cold storage for seasonal shipments. About 3,200 cars of soft fruits, including apricots, peaches and cherries are also shipped each year. Cultural development has proceeded side by side with the industrial, and the town today has a good educational system, two small but adequate libraries, two good daily newspapers, and more than 20 churches. Be- sides the fruit-growing industry, various other enterprises are of con- siderable importance in the Wenatche region—diversified manufacturing and farming, lumber, irrigation projects, and some mineral develop- ment. The Grand Coulee Dam, less than 100 miles away, undoubtedly will be a strong influence toward industrial growth. Fishing, hunting, hiking, mountain climbing, and virtually every kind of outdoor recreation may be found in the lake and mountain country around Wenatchee. Mountain resorts and many beautiful lakes, in- cluding Chelan, Wenatchee, and Lyman, are within easy driving dis- tance. The Wenatchee National Forest, extending over nearly 1,000,000 acres from the summits of the Cascades down to the Columbia, has many well-developed recreational areas; and the Chelan National Forest, an even larger area reaching down from the Canadian border, includes . -5»

most of the Lake Chelan country, known for its recreational possibilities, and many beautiful mountainous sections. The Caribou Trail area, in Colville National Forest, and lovely Blewett Pass, in the Wenatchee Mountains, are easily accessible. POINTS OF INTEREST Points of interest in Wenatchee include MEMORIAL PARK, COLUMBIA RIVER VALLEY ARCHEOLOGICAL SOCIETY COLLECTION, the MUIRHEAD RESIDENCE, and COLUM- BIA STREET WAREHOUSES.

Railroad Stations: N. Front and A Sts. for Northern Pacific Ry.; S. 2nd Ave. and Chestnut St. for Union Pacific R.R. Bus Station: 106 S. 3rd Ave. for Washington Motor Coach System. Airport: Yakima County Airport, 4.5 miles SW. off US 410 for Northwest Airlines; taxi fare $1; time 10 min. Taxis: 15c in downtown district; 25c to residential district; extra passengers 1ce each. Streetcars: Fare 10c. Accommodations: Eight hotels; two auto camps; trailer facilities. Information Service: Automobile Club of Washington (AAA), Hotel Com- mercial, 310 E. Yakima Ave.; Chamber of Commerce, N. 3rd and A Sts. Motion Picture Houses: Six; occasional local productions and road shows. Radio Station: KIT (1280 kc). Athletics: Yakima Senior High School Park, S. 6th Ave. and Pine St. Golf: Yakima Country Club, via E. Yakima Ave. to Terrace Heights; 9 holes, greens fee (for 18 holes) $1.50, $2 Sun. and holidays. Riverside Golf Club, N. from Yakima on US 97, L. across second bridge; 9 holes, greens fee (for 18 holes) $1; $1.50 Sun. and holidays. Tennis: Lions' Park, S. 6th Ave. and Pine St. Swimming: Lions' Park, S. 6th Ave. and Spruce St.; adults 15c and 20c; chil- dren 10c; City Park, N. 4th and F Sts.; adults 15c and 20c; children 5c. Baseball: Parker Field, Western International League, S. 16th and Lenox Ave. Annual Events: Conservation League Sportsmen's Show, last week in June; Pioneer Days, July 2-4; 4-H Clubs' State Fair, Sept. YAKIMA (1,075 alt., 27,221 pop.), county seat of Yakima County in south-central Washington, is on the Yakima River at the geographic center of the great Yakima Valley. The town owes its growth to the development of the surrounding region, where approximately 500,000 acres of irrigated land, formerly a sagebrush desert, now produce bounti- ful crops of fruits, vegetables, hops, hay, and alfalfa. Almost ringed by sage-covered hills, the city lies upon level ground except for elevations in some of the suburban areas. Along broad Yakima Avenue, the chief east-west thoroughfare, is the main business district, its modern buildings interspersed here and there with surviving nine- teenth-century structures. At the west end of Yakima Avenue are the better residential areas. North to south on Front Street, the tracks of the Northern Pacific Railroad bisect the city into Yakima, the com- mercial and metropolitan center, and East Yakima, a residential and suburban section which rises from the end of East Yakima Avenue to Terrace Heights; from here may be seen the huge cleft of the Columbia River Gap and long vistas of irrigated lands and orchards spreading fanlike into the distance.

Along the railroad tracks, a swarm of fruit- and vegetable-processing and packing plants, refrigerated warehouses, and related enterprises crowd upon the pulsing artery of Produce Row, center of Yakima's prosperity, which extends for more than a mile and a half along First Avenue. Here, from midsummer to late fall, thousands of persons are engaged in the handling and processing of cherries, peaches, pears, apples, and other small fruits. Packing houses sort, pack, and store the fruits and vegetables that have made Yakima's name familiar the world over. Vinegar factories and fruit dehydrating plants convert cannery by- products and cull-apples into salable merchandise. In addition to the more familiar products are such unusual items as a breakfast food made from apples, an apple flour, and an apple powder, recommended for infants' diets. Hay, grain, melons, potatoes, asparagus, tomatoes, and other fresh vegetables are distributed by truck to coast city markets, or by "iced freezer" railway cars to more remote populations. With the beginning of the cherry harvest, toward midsummer, Produce Row, always busy, becomes more hectic, and the narrow paved street is a shifting mass of trucks and shunting freight cars. Day and night the Row is a river of flowing traffic; gasoline fumes mingle with heavy odors of ripened fruit and the clank of hurried machinery. Above the roar of trucks and motors, the sounding of horns, and the shouts of drivers, rise the hoarse whistles of railroad locomotives and warning switch engine bells. In a mounting crescendo of industrial activity, peaches, pears, and apples follow each other in season. Overalled women clad in dull blue or grey uniforms, heads covered with close-fitting bonnets, crowd in increasing numbers into the various plants to care for the freshly gathered fruits hauled from thousands of acres of orchards in numberless trucks, horse-drawn wagons, family automobiles, freight cars. Transient fruit workers, "apple knockers" (packers), wives and daughters of near-by farmers, and townspeople are drawn into service and labor at terrific speed. During the annual harvest, the routine of the city is interrupted by an influx of migratory workers and their families. At the height of the season in September, approximately 35,000 agricultural workers are required full-time in the fields and orchards, in contrast to late fall and spring, when only about 500 are needed. The migratory family solves the problem of seasonal labor for Yakima Valley agriculture; but it raises another problem, for its annual income is seldom sufficient to sustain it during periods of unemployment between harvests. Wearing straw or old felt hats, blue denim shirts, jeans, cotton dresses, or slacks, these migratory workers arrive just before the active season begins. Shortly, lodging houses and camps are filled; tent camps are set up along irrigation ditches and at the edges of orchards; streets are crowded with job seekers. During free time they seek recreation in movies or beer parlors, or throng the sidewalks, window-shopping along the streets where many stores keep open to catch late business. When the harvest is over, the throng of fruit workers dwindles to a comparative handful of girls and women, who pack the orders with-

drawn from cold storage for shipment to England, France, Germany, Canada — to all parts of the world and to every State in the Union. The Yakima Valley was not settled until 1858, primarily because of Indian troubles, which crystalized in the Indian War of 1855-7. In 1858, however, the Yakimas accepted a reservation provided for them by the Government, and cattlemen drove their herds into the valley. Three years later, Fielding M. Thorpe and his wife, Margaret, became the first permanent settlers in the region. They settled in the Moxee district, four miles southeast of the site of the present city. A few other families followed and a school was opened. Until irrigation became prevalent, however, settlement lagged, for despite the extreme fertility of the volcanic ash soil the 8.15 inches of rainfall was insufficient for farming. Irrigation began early. In 1852-3, the Roman Catholic fathers at St. Joseph's mission, and Kamiakin, a chief of the Yakimas, irrigated by primitive methods a small area of the desert and demonstrated its productiveness. In 1870 John W. Beck planted the first orchard: 50 peach and 50 apple trees. The first irrigation system was established in 1872 when Sebastian Lauber and Joseph and Charles Schanno con- structed a canal from the river to the town. Before long, throughout the Yakima Valley, where cattlemen had fought over range and water rights, irrigation became the major interest. These early water systems marked the end of cattle-raising in the valley and the beginning of its prosperity as a diversified farming and fruit-growing area. During the last quarter of the nineteenth century, an increasing number of families moved into the new community. In 1879 the first newspaper, the Yakima Record, was established, and in 1883, a second, the Yakima City Signal. The town was incorporated in 1883 as Yakima City, with a population of 400. Shortly thereafter, the Northern Pacific Railway selected a site for a station four miles northwest of the town, naming the site North Yakima. After much controversy, in which the newspaper joined loudly, it was decided to move Yakima City to the railroad station. In the winter of 1884 the entire town of some 100 buildings was trundled on rollers and skids to the new location, the hotel and some of the stores continuing to do business as they rolled along. On December 24, 1884, the first train reached the new settle- ment. The new city retained the name North Yakima until 1918, when the "North" was dropped, and the former Yakima became Union Gap. The boom that followed the coming of the railroad temporarily gave the town a character typical of the storied West. Horse-thieves, gamblers, and outlaws moved into the region and soon found themselves opposed by citizens' committees and vigilante groups. Colonel H. D. Cox, an Indian fighter, was appointed town marshal, and shortly succeeded in introducing legal procedures. On January 27, 1886, the day it received its city charter, the town was named as county seat. By 1892 it had a population of 5,000, and the business district boasted 62 stores and office buildings. Despite the panic of 1893, the town put on the first State Fair that year. Business recovery was rapid, and, with improved trans-

portation facilities and extended irrigation, the community continued to grow and prosper. The Federal Government became interested in irrigation at the turn of the century; with the beginning of the Sunnyside Project in 1905, the entire valley was affected. In 1912 the Rimrock (Tieton) Project was completed. Since 1918 enormous sums have been invested to create reservoirs at Bumping Lake, Lakes Keechelus, Kachess, Meadows, Mc- Alister, Cle Elum, and at Toppenish, Simcoe, and Ahtanum. The com- pletion of each project was marked by an influx of new settlers; and an expanding rim of green orchards and cultivated fields followed the long, interlaced fingers of irrigation ditches, steadily pushing back the desert with the magical touch of water. In the city each development of the hinterland gave impetus to commercial and industrial growth; new buildings displaced some of the old structures along Yakima Avenue; warehouses, fruit processing and canning plants sprang up along Produce Row; production was speeded by the introduction of traveling belts and machines; a somewhat exclusive residence section on the west side re- flected the profits made from increasing harvests; and population mount- ed from 14,082 in 1910 to 27,221 in 1940. In 1938 Yakima had five public markets, one of the most modern streetcar systems in the State, transcontinental rail, bus, and air service, a junior college, and 52 churches of many denominations. Two daily newspapers, the morning Herald and the evening Republic, had suc- ceeded the early Signal and Record; they were owned for over a quarter of a century by the late Colonel W. W. Robertson, one of the most picturesque figures in Washington journalism, and renowned for his vigorous, and sometimes vitriolic, editorials. As in other Washington towns, Indians from the near-by reservation are frequently seen along the streets of Yakima, as are also Japanese, who operate truck farms in the vicinity. Along South Front and part of Chestnut Street is a small Chinatown, and a few Negroes also make their home in the city. At harvest time many Filipinos come to work in the fields and factories. As the center of the Yakima Valley apple region, the city gives much publicity to the local apple. Hotels make lobby displays of the fruit, and guests are urged to send boxes of apples to friends. Gallon jars of apple juice adorn restaurant shelves, and apple juice cocktails are fea- tured on dinner menus. All of Yakima's industry is not, however, dominated by agriculture; a lumber and box shook manufacturing plant is its largest single factory, and a wide variety of other manufactures, including such items as clay products, furniture, and clothing, play their part in the industrial life of the city. POINTS OF INTEREST The JANECK HOUSE MUSEUM (open by permission), 415 N. 2nd St, the home of L. O. Janeck, contains more than 8,000 Indian arrowheads and stone relics, numerous paintings and wood carvings,

and some exquisite needlework by Mrs. Janeck. It includes also a large collection of dolls from many foreign countries. A Rock Garden, ad- joining the house, contains many varieties of rare cactus and rock plants from all parts of the United States, South and Central America, and many other lands.

ST. MICHAEL'S EPISCOPAL CHURCH, Naches and E. Yak- ima Aves., is built of native lava rock. It was designed by Edward T. Potter, son of Bishop Alonzo Potter of Pennsylvania. First services were held here on January 6, 1889, by the Reverend John Adams Paddocke. A portico, added in 1923-4, was copied from the English church described by the poet Gray in his "Elegy Written in a Country Churchyard."

The LARSON BUILDING, corner of S. 2nd St. and Yakima Ave., designed by John M. Maloney, of Yakima, is the city's outstand- ing business edifice, an 11-story reinforced-concrete structure of modern setback type, faced with brick. It was built in 1931 at a cost of $600,000, and named for the late A. E. Larson, wealthy pioneer. Larson's will provided that, after the death of his widow, the family home at 1011 W. Yakima Ave. be turned over to the city for use as a public museum and art gallery, for which a private collection of Indian relics and several fine paintings are to serve as a nucleus. Larson also left a $50,000 bequest to the city library.

LIONS PARK, S. 6th Ave. and Pine St., was established in 1927 as a recreational center by the local Lions Club. A swimming pool, wading pool for children, and tennis court are provided. The McWHORTER HOUSE MUSEUM (telephone for appoint- ment), 1408 W. Yakima Ave., contains a large collection of Indian weapons and a manuscript library of Indian and historical material gath- ered by L. V. McWhorter. McWhorter is the author of The Crime Against the Yakimas and Yellow Wolf, His Own Story, which present, from a point of view sympathetic to the natives, the story of early con- flicts between Indians and whites.

The WASHINGTON DEHYDRATED FOOD COMPANY PLANT (visitors permitted on application to office), 709-11 1st Ave. N., constructed in 1917, the first of its kind in the State, contains 21 drying units, and is said to be the largest fruit dryer in the United States. Its output of evaporated apples is among the largest in the country. The Yakima plant is one of six operated by the same company, prin- cipally in the State of Washington.

YAKIMA FRUIT GROWERS ASSOCIATION PLANT (apply at office; visitors permitted subject to operating convenience), 1320 S. 1st Ave., is one of the leading packing and canning plants in the city, and is known as the "Big 'Y'." Here, boxes of apples are carried by an endless belt from trucks at the receiving platform to the cold storage rooms, where they are cooled. Washers then remove spray residue, and the fruit is graded and packed. Lidding machines automatically press the apples tightly into a box and nail on the lid.

CALIFORNIA PACKING COMPANY PLANT (apply at office; visitors permitted subject to operating convenience), 21$ 1st Ave. S., occupies two blocks and cans a variety of fruits and vegetables. Pears, which are one of the most important products, go through coring, peeling, and slicing processes in an almost continuous operation; cans come from the lidding machine in an apparently endless stream.

POINTS OF INTEREST IN ENVIRONS

Union Gap, historic site, 4 m.\ Site of the Battle of Two Buttes, 5 m.; Yakima Indian Reservation, 5 m.; Painted Rocks, geologic formation, 5 m.\ Ahtanum Mission, historic mission, 8.4 m.\ Sawyer Cabin, pioneer cabin, 14 m.; Rimrock (Tieton) Dam, 38 m.\ Yakima Park Entrance to Mount Rainier National Park, 72 m. (see Tour ib). Moxee, hop fields and flowing wells, 8.6 m.; Lookout Point, scenic view, near Selah, 6 m.; Roza Irrigation Project, 7 m. (see Tour 7*).