User:Turn685/Putumayo4

On the following morning we set out at about six o'clock, being awakened at about half-past five by a numerous army of gnats or moscos. These little pests, described in the first chapter as being very prevalent on the Cauca Railway, had not afllicted us since leaving Puerto Guineo, the point of embarkation. They now became very aggravating, and such was their ferocity and per- severance that we were finally compelled to don the gloves and veils we had had made in Pasto for the purpose. Owing to the suffocating heat, these articles were inconvenient to a degree, but as they were undoubtedly the lesser evil, we endeavoured to put up with them.

At about 2 p.m. we reached Yubinete, the place where Martinez had been kidnapped. As soon as we reached the port a couple of racionales came down and conducted us up along a winding path to the little split-palm hut, which was situated on a high knoll on the right bank, some two hundred metres from the river. The place seemed desolate and neglected, for rank weeds and large bushes

136 THE PUTUMAYO

arose on every side. The proprietor, it seemed, was absent, and the two racionales, who had been left in charge, took life very easy.

Here we had lunch with them, which was a rather meagre affair, after which we sold them some of our remaining Indian trading-stuff in order to get it out of the way. During the course of this deal, which was enlivened by a consider- able amount of haggling and aguardiente, we learned that nothing more had been heard of the unfortunate Martinez, and the opinion of the two racionales was that he was being detained at El Encanto for some underhand purpose.

Bidding adios to the hospitable racionales, we resumed our descent at about 3.30, and continued it without incident until about six o'clock, when we stopped at a large playa near where the river — or at least the arm that we were following — divided into three brazos. Here we saw several ducks, but they would not let us get within range. With the darkness the gnats disappeared, but great blood-sucking mosquitoes soon took their place ; it was out of the frying-pan into the fire.

After a night of torture we resumed our journey on the following morning, taking the left brazo, as the two racionales had informed us that it was the quickest. The gnats now relieving the mos- quitoes, we again put on the paraphernalia of the previous day, but found it unendurable, for the narrow brazo was like an oven, being too wide to provide shade and too small for the breeze to enter.

Had it not been for these little wretches we should have enjoyed the passage through the brazo,

THE CENTRAL PUTUMAYO 137

for on either side — almost within arm's length- towered up in magnificent confusion the luxuriant, impenetrable vegetation of the Amazon Valley. The calm beauty of the scene was from time to time enlivened by the numerous bands of gaily -coloured parrots and parroquets that, with shrill, hoarse cries, would circle about in the sky far above us. Again, we would perceive a group of monkeys leap- ing from tree to tree with the agility and quick- ness peculiar to them. At other times the silence would be broken by the splash of the large fish, which, intent on securing some delectable insect for their lunch, would leap out of the water in their eagerness.

At about two o'clock we emerged from the brazo and again entered the main channel, which along here averaged from one to two kilometres in width. Here there was a little wind, which served to relieve us a trifle, but, unfortunately, it did not last long, and the stifling heat and the clouds of gnats soon resumed their sway.

A little later, while keeping along the right bank to get the benefit of the current, we observed a band of the large guariba * monkeys making their way along the bank. As we were in need of some meat, we hastily disembarked and set out in pur- suit of them. Perceiving an especially large one, I let fly at him with the shot-gun ; he fell, but, striking a branch in his descent, caught it with his tail and hung there head downwards. Finally, after shooting him six times more and spending over half an hour throwing sticks at him, he con- descended to fall, and we took him in triumph to
 * Simla mycetes.

138 THE PUTUMAYO

the canoe. We had a fine dish of monkey-steak for dinner that night.

The guaribas are the largest and most interest- ing of the numerous species of monkeys that abound in the forests of the Putumayo. They average two feet in height, have well -developed fingers, and a heavy beard under the chin. Their long, prehensile tail is covered with hair on top, but the under surface is bald and horny. They are generally of a brownish colour, but this often varies, according to the age of the individual. The guaribas have powerful voices, and when they all get together and begin howling, the din is deaf- ening. They feed on fruits and nuts, and the females carry their 3'oung on their backs like some Indian women.

The next day we got another early start ; the river was high, and the current took us along rapidly. During the morning we shot at several splendid-looking parrots, but they were too far off for our fire to be effective. The gnats still hen- pecked us, though not so ferociously as on the previous days, because we now got along faster. We had intended digging some turtle eggs, but the river was so swollen that the greater part of the play as and islands were covered.

At noon a heavy rain set in, which soaked us through and through. Then the sun came out again in all its glory and dried us within an hour or so, while our enemies the gnats took their toll of us ; they literally appeared around us in clouds, and we killed thousands of them at a time by simply clapping our hands together. Finally they became so numerous that I was compelled to make

THE CENTRAL PUTUMAYO 139

a fire in tiie pot in the bow, wliicli I rendered as smolcy as possible by wetting the wood. This drove them off a little, but was as bad for us as it was for the gnats.

During the afternoon the river went down some- what, and the beaches and playas were once more revealed. The water, however, had obliterated all tracks, &c., and consequently we were unable to find any nests. At five o'clock we stopped at the mouth of a little quebrada, where the fish actually swarmed. Every moment they would jump up out of the water, for some reason or other, and two of them even went so far as to leap into our boat. Nevertheless, our daintiest bait would not tempt them to bite.

The next morning, December 30th, we again set out on our journey. The river had gone down considerably, so we made rather slow progress, and, consequently, the man-eating gnats had us more or less at their mercy, for it was so hot that our armour was unbearable. At ten o'clock a slow, drizzling rain set in, which was peculiarly annoy- ing, for it was not strong enough to dissipate the gnats, but sufficiently damp to soak us com- pletely.

The wet season had apparently set in, and, owing to the gnats and rain, our trip had lost much of its charm, so we made up our minds to follow Lopez' advice in regard to crossing over to the Napo by the Remolino varadero without delay. Besides, we rather wished to travel by an overland route, in order to see the country between the rivers. Above all, we did not wish to get mixed up in any backwoods frontier fighting.

140 THE PUTUMAYO

In spite of the drizzle we got out upon reaching a promising-looking playa, and, after some trailing, found a large nest of eggs, which had apparently been laid during the previous night. We also had the luck to shoot a small duck, so our larder, at least, was provided for.

Turning a bend, we saw a house, surrounded by a large cleared area, perched upon the left bank. Approaching nearer, we perceived that the river— heretofore nearly two kilometres wide — narrowed down until, when opposite the house, it was not over a couple of hundred metres in width. Here the banks were high and vertical, and the river, rushing between them like a mill-race, formed an immense eddy, or remolino, on the other side. Then, turning at a sharp angle, it gradually spread out and soon attained its former width again. We had arrived at Remolino.

CHAPTER V

THE HUITOTOS

Reaching the port with some difficulty, we secured the canoe, climbed up the steep bank, walked through the clearing, which was sown with yuca, plantains, &c., and arrived at the house. Here we were received in a friendly manner by an old, tattered-looking racional, who upon our asking for Senor Ordonez informed us that that gentleman was at La Union, the principal establishment of the Company, which was situated on the banks of the Caraparana, about three hours' march over- land.

Somewhat annoyed at this contretemps, which made it necessary for us to go to that region, Perkins and I held a short consultation, during which we decided that on the following day I should cross over to La Union and arrange with Ordonez to lend us the necessary cargadores and buy what effects we wanted, to be disposed of afterwards as quickly as possible, while Perkins remained with the canoe at Remolino. The old racional did not have any authority to do business with me, but was sure that Ordoiiez— who seemed to be the principal man— would arrange matters with us upon any reasonable terms.

141

142 THE PUTUMAYO

During the rest of the day we stopped at Remolino to recuperate, but the devouring gnats made such pertinacious attacks upon us that we had no time for resting, being constantly employed in repelling their onslaughts. The old racional wrapped his feet, head, and arms up in rags and went to sleep, probably being accustomed to wear- ing this armour. On account of the excessive heat we could not endure ours.

At about four o'clock a party of six or seven racionales came over from La Union, intending to return there on the following day with some stores, for it seems that the establishment of Remolino is merely a sort of receiving station and warehouse. This was a lucky circumstance for us, as I could accompany them, and thus avoid all danger of losing my way, for the trail, so our old host informed us, was a mere forest path, in some places almost impassable.

The next morning at about six o'clock I set out in company with the racionales through the dense forest. The ground was rolling and cut up into steep hillocks and precipitous valleys by numerous small quebradas on their way to join the Putumayo ; as the soil was mostly yellow clay our progress was not rapid. Presently we crossed two rather large quebradas, from twelve to fifteen metres in width, over bridges in each case formed by the large trunk of a single tree. These the racionales crossed readily, but I experienced some difficulty in doing so on account of my slippery shoes. At about ten o'clock a torrential rain set in, which drenched us within five minutes. Still, we pusiied on, and soon, crossing a comparatively level area,

THE HUITOTOS 143

we arrived upon the right bank of the Caraparana. We climbed into a canoe, rowed across the thirty- metre-wide river, and, clambering up the steep, cleared bank, were at La Union.

Making my way to the principal house, a large structure of split-palms, similar to those already described, I entered the yard, ascended the steps to the porch, and asked for Seiior Ordonez. A young man, who introduced himself as Don Fabio Duarte, the assistant manager, then informed me that Ordoiiez was out in the forest with his Indians, but that he was expected back on the following day ; meanwhile he invited me to stop with him until Ordoiiez came. A seat near the fire soon dried my wet clothes, and a good hot lunch braced me up considerably.

In addition to this principal house there were two or three smaller structures, standing at some distance from each other and from the large one. All the forest for some distance round the estab- lishment was cut down, and upon the fresh, green grass that took its place numerous sleek cattle and horses grazed in peaceful quiet. Some parts of this cleared area were, however, fenced in, and here large plantations of yuca^ plantains, maize, &c., were under cultivation, for which purpose the fifteen or twenty racionales that I observed about the house were employed. Under the principal house I observed about a thousand arrobas of rubber stored away, awaiting shipment.

Duarte, who was a very affable and communica- tive youth, informed me that all this rubber was collected by the Indians in the Company's service, who came in periodically with what they had col-

144 THE PUTUMAYO

lected and exchanged it for merchandise, &c., sold to them at rather exorbitant prices. These aborigines, who belonged to the tribe known as the Huitotos, numbered about two hundred, and lived in villages of their own in the heart of the forest. Other Huitotos were employed by David Serrano, another Colombian settler, living some distance down the Caraparana, while the greatest portion of them were in the service of the Peruvian Amazon Company,* which, Duarte informed me, treated them very harshly, obliging them to work night and day without the slightest remuneration.

I spent the rest of the day in getting data about the Huitotos and in collecting from the racionales —many of whom spoke the language perfectly — a short vocabulary of the most common Huitoto words. Among other interesting facts, I learned that this whole region had first been settled by Colombians, who had been afterwards squeezed out bj^ the Peruvians, until now in the whole district of the Caraparana and Igaraparana there remained but three Colombian establishments— La Union, La Reserva (Serrano's), and El Dorado, belonging to a negro called Hdefonso Gonzalez.

Seiior Duarte informed me, in response to my inquiries regarding the designs of the Peruvian Amazon Company against the Colombians, that the latter had long been aware of them, the said Com- pany having frequently offered to buy them out ; these proposals having been refused, the autocratic Company had commenced persecuting them in many, ways, such as refusing to sell them supplies, buying

Company, the J. C. Arana and Hermanos Company.
 * This concern was, before October 1, 1907, a Peruvian

THE HUITOTOS 145

their rubber only at a great discount, kidnapping their Indian employees, &c.

In regard to the possibility of an attempt by the Peruvians to dispossess the Colombians by lorce, Duarte did not consider it probable, for, although the Prefect at Iquitos had sent a number of soldiers up, it had only been done on the representation of the company that a large Colombian force was descending the Putumayo ; the Peruvian detach- ment, seeing for themselves that this report was false, would not countenance any raid on the three Colombian establishments, much less take part in it, and would soon, without doubt, order the release of the unfortunate Corregidor, Martinez. If, on the other hand, they did attempt any such iniquitous proceeding, he continued, the Colombians would oppose them until the last extremity.

The next morning I was disappointed to hear from Duarte that he had just received a message from Ordofiez to the effect that he would not be able to return for several days. This was dis- heartening, and I did not know what to do until Duarte suggested that I should go down and see Serrano, who, he thought, would do business with us. As this advice seemed rational and as it was onlj^ a three-hours walk through the forest I deter- mined to follow it. Accordingly, taking my leave of the hospitable Duarte, who thoughtfully pro- vided me with a Huitoto guide, I set out on my new journey.

The guide seemed to be a fairly intelligent fellow, and gave me a quantity of information about the system of rubber -collection employed in this region.

He also went on to inform me that the Peruvians

10

146 THE PUTUMAYO

treated his countrymen " very badly " ; and when I asked him what he meant by this he gave me to understand that in case the Indians did not bring in a sufficient amount of rubber to satisfy the Peruvians they were flogged, shot, or mutilated at the will of the man in charge. When I asked if the Colombians also indulged in these practices he replied that they did not, for they always treated them well. It is unnecessary to state that I took all this information with a grain of salt, for it seemed to me very improbable.

After getting soaked by another heavy downpour, similar to that of the preceding day, we emerged from the forest and entered a large cleared area, most of which was planted with maize, yuca, plantains, &c., the rest being a sort of pasture-land. Passing through this for some time, we presently came to Serrano's house, a fair-sized bungalow of the usual type, half concealed by a small orchard of fruit-trees.

Climbing the porch, I found myself in the presence of three men, one of them being a short, middle-aged, coffee-coloured gentleman, while the other two were white and had the appearance of travellers. Introducing myself, I was cordially welcomed by the dark man, who proved to be Serrano, as I had supposed. He, in turn, made me acquainted with the other two, who turned out to be two of the exiles brought down by Becerra, General Miguel Antonio Acosta and Don x\lfonso Sanchez. The other exiles, it appeared, had gone down to the Peruvian establishment of El Encanto to catch one of the launches which was about to sail for Iquitos. These two, however, had decided

THE HUITOTOS 147

to stop with Serrano a few days on account of tlie illness of Sanchez, who was prostrated by a iierce attack of malarial fever.

As Serrano was about to set out for Iquilos him- self on business within a week or so, accompanied by the exiles in case Sanchez was better, he readily agreed to take us with him and, moreover, to buy our canoe and anything else that we had for sale. Accordingly, I sent word to Perkins by means of an Indian that Serrano loaned me for the purpose to descend with the canoe from Remolino to Josa, Serrano's port on the Putumayo, and, arriving there, to leave the canoe and our personal effects— for we should pass Josa on our way to the varadero— and bring over to La Reserva everything we had for sale, for which purpose we would send some cargadores there to meet him.

This business satisfactorily arranged at last, I felt considerably relieved, and hoped that soon we would be on the varadero to the Napo and out of harm's way. Serrano then took me out and showed me the place. In addition to the large planta- tions already mentioned he had planted several thousand rubber-trees in the forest, which were now from two to four years old and in a very flourish- ing condition. Under the house he had 170 odd arrobas of rubber, which had been collected by his Huitoto employees, of whom he had about forty- five families, one or two of which were then at the house.

During the course of the evening I happened to make a remark about the Peruvians to the effect that they were probablj^ not so bad as represented. This somewhat aroused Serrano, who thereupon

148 THE PUTUMAYO

recounted to me one of the most diabolical deeds committed by the murderous employees of the Peruvian Amazon Company that I had ever heard of up to that time. The following is an outline of it :—

As Serrano had owed a small sum of money to the El Encanto branch of the Peruvian Amazon Company the manager of that establishment, one Miguel S. Loayza, had made this fact an excuse to send up a " commission " about a month before our arrival to abuse and intimidate him so that he would abandon his estate. As soon as the " com- mission " arrived the miserable wretches who formed it began their hellish labours by chaining Serrano up to a tree ; then these model employees of the " civilising company," as they call them- selves, forcibly entering his wife's room, dragged the unhappy woman out on the porch, and there, before the tortured eyes of the helpless Serrano, the chief of the " commission " outraged his un- happy victim. Not satisfied with this, they took his entire stock of merchandise, amounting to some 10,000 sols* together with his little son and the unfortunate woman who had just been so vilely outraged, embarked them on the launch, and took them to El Encanto. Serrano had never seen them since, but had heard that his wife was being used as a concubine by the criminal Loayza, while his tender son acted as servant to the same repugnant monster.

This horrible story, in conjunction with the other accounts of the ferocity of these employees that I had been given and the treacherous kidnapping of
 * One sol (S.) is equivalent to about two shillings.

THE HUITOTOS 149

the unfortunate Martinez, combined to make me think that we had stumbled upon a regular Devil's Paradise in this remote corner of the world. Still, I reflected, I had as yet heard but one side of the case— the Colombian— and therefore was not quali- fied to come to any decision in regard to the matter.

Serrano then infortned me that they were ex- pecting the arrival of Don Jesus Orjuela, the newly appointed Police Inspector and Government agent from Bogota, who, they expected, would do some- thing to protect them against these outrages. Although this gentleman had no forces, nevertheless it was understood that he had authority to make some arrangements with the Peruvians, if possible, to provide for the protection of the Colombian settlers.

Early in the morning of the following day we dispatched three of Serrano's Huitotos to Josa, in order to aid Perkins in bringing over the effects we were to sell to Serrano. Our personal baggage could remain there during the five or six days that would elapse before our departure with Serrano and the two exiles for the varddero. The rest of the day I spent in preparing a part of the following essay on the Huitotos, the aboriginal inhabitants of the Caraparana and Igaraparana districts.

In the extensive area occupied by the " civilising company," between the Caqueta and the Napo, many distinct tribes of Indians, such as the Huitotos, the Boras, the Yurias, the Ocainas, the Yahuas, the Andoques, and the Andoqueros are found. Of these the largest and most important tribe is the Huitotos.

150

THE PUTUMAYO

The Huitoto tribe is divided up into numerous sub -tribes, each having a distinct name, such as the Maynanes, the Aifugas, the Recigaros, the Yabu- yanos, &c. Each of these sub -tribes has its own chief, called a capitdn or tuchaua, and appears to be quite independent of the rest. A sub -tribe may vsLry in size from twenty -five to five hundred indi- viduals and often more.

All these sub -tribes speak more or less the same language — Huitoto, of which I give a few specimen words. It is a very simple language, with but little grammar, employing neither conjunctions nor articles. The words in a sentence are pronounced slowly, with a prolonged and harmonious intona- tion.

HUITOTO VOCABULARY.

father mother daughter infant brother woman friend enemy white (man) wizard sleep. . tobacco monkey

tiger tapir. . watercress. . sick. . dead. . white red. . black tree. . maize yuca. . meat. .

m(y>t

man. .

lima

eiio, ei

God ..

Usinamu

rinona

shade

. . apuehana

muguro

old (fem.).

uikesero

ama, iyo

old (mas.).

., uikerama

rinona, ag

foreigner

. . oicomue

clieinama

much, many

. . viomome

igaginake

full ..

. . monite, niba

veracucha

I

. . ciU

iatche

thou. .

..

cuihacate

we. .

. . naga

tue

you ..

. . naga abe

emueje

they. .

. . . atchue

jecco

this. . :

. . piee

suncma

my

. . cud

ecco

thy. .

.. oe

tuico

small

., yurete

paide, feode

cold. .

. . rosirete

userede

heat ...

. . ecaside

iarede

dry. .

. . tajerede

ituide

yes. .

.. jd

daipa

morning, to

morrow icolte

pechato

hat. .

. . ipoico

maica

soldiers

. . hudarete

chiceci, llucusa

sugar-cane.

. . cononoque

THE HUITOTOS

151

plantain pepper rubber one. . two,. tbree. . four. . five. . ten. . few, little hen. . bog, pig paper sun. . devil. . good. . farina delicious to forget to drink to eat to fast to work to go. . to come to laugh to weep let us go shower lightning thunder far

oar. . cacao. .

egg .. chief. .

ocoto

ivico

isire

taja

mena

taje amani

menajere

tape c7i,iro

nagape cuiro

chichanito

atava, atahua

nasi

rapi

itoma

taife

mare

alma

caimarete

feide

hide

gtma

gunuTiete

hiefano

rairemaca

benehi

sateide

edde

mana cocoaide

hifoma

jairo

doirite

ar&

yapil

iHHselle

noho

vion

mouth

. juca

in the forest

. asicoma

attractive. .

. mar ana no

ugly

. marunete

young

edmime

old, antique. .

huatima

paint..

. hidora

hair. .

. ifotire

head. .

. ifote

nose. .

. dofo

ear

• efo

teeth. .

. icido, nido

moon

. febuy

go

■ jai

more. .

. dame

water

. liinud

there is

. ite

there is not. .

. unete

enough

. viacavaite

good weather

. mare mona

to take

. penojo cuido

to be hungry

. naimede

to speak

naitode

wind

. aifehui

no. .

. unete

deer. .

dronde

near. .

. yanor4

to move

. jetache

he comes

. matemo moito

to carry

. aptdne

give me

. atd

pine-apple. .

. rosille

case. .

. ojo

small

. muguro

jar

. diar<i

PHRASES.

Let us go together. . Where is your brother This is your mother This is my house I have come here Hurry up I have a pain That's good. . I don't know Come here ...

Mana cue digo

Menomo iyo

Bei O ei

Cue yomo

Cue bito benoina bite

mayai

sirete

juigora

tine unete

ve

152

THE PUTUMAYO

I am coming

. . hitegu6

I am not coming. .

. . bitunete

I want

. . ejocatequS

What is it ?

. . muneca

That's bad

. . juigonete

I like you

. . yacate cue

You are handsome. .

. . tabo juogora

I don't like you

. . Inide

He comes at a distance.

. . Matemo moito an6 ite

Where are your people

. . Btccu muine

Where is your house

. . Menomo apa ite

Where is your field

. . Nemono huarayar ite

Have you plenty of yuca.

Allui tanoje maica

Show me through the forest

. . Darite asicomo

I want to drink some water

. . Haino firaia cati

I don't want to go. .

. . Haini tegtie

Show me a tree to make a canoe

. . Eroi daipajuinoca amena

Note. — The letters should he pronounced as in Spanish.

The Huitotos are a well -formed race, and although small are stout and strong, with a broad chest and a prominent bust, but their limbs, espe- cially the lower, are but little developed. Their hair, long and abundant, is black and coarse, and is worn long by both sexes. A peculiar custom is that of pulling out the eyebrows, eyelashes, and the fine hairs of the other parts of the body. That repugnant sight, a protruding abdomen, so common among the " whites " and half-breeds on the Amazon, is very rare among these aborigines.

Among the women the habit of carrying their young on their backs makes them adopt an inclined position, which they conserve all their life. Their feet are turned inwards, and when they walk their thighs generally strike against each other as though they were afraid. Notwithstanding these defects, it is not rare to find among these women many really beautiful, so magnificent are their figures and so free and graceful their movements.

A HUITOTO IXDIAX RUBBER GATHERER.

THE HUITOTOS 153

The men, on the contrary, walk with their feet turned outwards ; but when crossing a log or a tree which serves as a bridge over a stream they turn them inwards, in this way obtaining greater stability and avoiding slipping. The big toes of their feet are endowed with great flexibility, and they use them to pick up things from the ground.

Among the men certain physical organs are com- pressed and tied up, and never reach their normal development. The women suffer few abnor- malities ; their breasts are periform and always prominent, even among the old, in which case they diminish in volume, but never hang down.

The custom of mutilation is very common among all the male Huitotos. Those of the Caraparana and the Upper Igaraparana— the two principal tributaries of the Central Putumayo— perforate the dividing wall of the nose, and stick through the orifice a tube of junco, often as thick as a lead- pencil, while the inhabitants of the central portion of the Igaraparana pierce the whole lower extremity of this organ with variously coloured tubes and feathers, sometimes vertically traversing the lower lip with others. All have a long, thick rod, often adorned with curious carvings, stuck through the lobe of the ear.

These Indians are bumble and hospitable to a marked degree, except a few of the more remote sub -tribes, who are still free and independent and not yet in contact with the rubber-collectors. Indeed, Serrano informed me that the first Colom- bian settlers in this region, who had arrived here penniless, ill, and despairing, had been warmly wel- comed by the Huitotos, plied with food, given

154 THE PUTUMAYO

women, and made far more comfortable than they had ever been in their own country. Serrano's Yabuyanos at La Reserva served us splendidly, for they were always cheerful, willing, and reliable. They called Serrano their father, and, indeed, treated him as such.

Few matrimonial formalities are observed among the Huitotos. The prospective bridegroom clears a small piece of land, builds a house — or secures quarters in one already built— gives a small quantity of coca or tobacco to the capitdn to obtain his approval, and cuts a supply of firewood for his future mother-in-law. Shortly afterwards the girl is given to him, which is an occasion of consider- able festivity, and they are man and wife.

These unions are considered binding among the Huitotos, and it is very rarely that serious disagree- ments arise between husband and wife. The women are naturally chaste, and it was not until the advent of the rubber-collectors that they began to lose this primitive virtue, so generally met with among people not yet in contact with white men. It is worthy of notice that among these aborigines poly- gamy does not exist, and only in extremely rare cases does the capitdn or tuchaua have more than one wife.

Serrano informed me that when a child is born the mother takes it to the river, and, after washing it, covers the little new-comer with rubber-milk in order to keep it warm, while the father makes this an opportunity for lying in his hammock, claiming to be ill. Infant mortality is very large among the Huitotos, owing to the prevailing ignorance of the women and the hardships the little copper-com- plexioned strangers have to put up with.

THE HUITOTOS 155

A peculiar custom, very general among these Indians, is that of giving the name of a person who has just died to another member of the family — as a rule, to the one v^ho has been the especial favourite of the deceased. The individual so honoured then drops his former name and assumes his new one.

When any one of their capitdnes dies he is buried under his own house, wrapped up in a new palm- fibre hammock, together with all his weapons, utensils, &c. The hut is then abandoned and a new one is erected by the survivors and their friends. Ordinary members of the tribe, including women and children, are merely buried under the floor without more ceremony.

Upon the occasion of a fiesta^ or to solemnise any agreement or contract, they have recourse to the celebrated chupe del tabaco, or tobacco-drinking. A numerous group of Indians congregate about a pot placed upon the ground, which contains a strong extract of tobacco. The capitdn first introduces his forefinger into the liquid and commences a long discourse, which is from time to time interrupted by the rest with an emphatic yell of approval. Then they become more and more excited, until finally the pot is gravely passed around and each one in turn dips his finger into the liquid and then applies it to his tongue. This is the Huitoto's most solemn oath, and is said to have never been broken. Whenever the whites wish to enter into any im- portant agreement with the Indians, they always insist upon this ceremony being performed.

The houses of these aborigines are generally large and circular in form, averaging about sixty or

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seventy feet in diameter. They are covered with a v^ell -woven thatch roof, capable of lasting for years, made from the leaves of the yarina or vegetable-ivory tree ; this roof often reaches almost to the ground. The framework, generally of chonta, or some other hard, durable wood, is held together by means of stout befucos and ropes made from the tough inner bark of a tree known as the sacha- huasca. As there are no windows and only a small opening that serves as a door, no light nor air can enter, and the smoke and heat are generally suffocating.

As a rule, several families live in one house, each, however, having its own particular fireplace, furni- ture, and domestic utensils, generally limited to a few small bamboo stools and benches, several earthen pots, some baskets, various kinds of paint, a quantity of gourds used as plates, &c., a few primitive musical instruments, such as rude drums, bamboo flutes, and bone whistles, torches made of the heart of the maguey or of chonta, impregnated with resin, and several similar articles.

Overhead a few light poles are stretched, from which they hang the articles just mentioned, their arms, &c., while a basket of dried fish or meat to be smoked may often be seen hanging in the smoke just above the fire. Here, too, there generally simmers a small pot of the celebrated casaramanu, a peculiar sort of gravy, composed of the blood, brains, and liver of the animals they kill, well seasoned with the fiery aji. This sauce or gravy seldom gives out, for as it diminishes day by day new portions of the ingredients are added.

Serrano's Indians generally slept in light cham-

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fezra-palm fibre hammocks, similar to those of the Cionis ; but tlie unfortunates employed by the Peru- vian Amazon Company are worked so hard by their taskmasters that the greater part of them are obliged to sleep on the ground, on account of not having time to make their hammocks. These hammocks, as well as most of the other interesting objects manufactured by the Huitotos, are now becoming extremely rare for the same reason.

The principal hunting weapon used by these Indians is the blow-gun or bodoqueda, known to them as the obidique. This is in all respects similar to that used by the Incas, which has already been described. The Huitotos, however, unlike the Cochas, Incas, and Cionis, manufacture this in- teresting weapon themselves, which is a long and laborious process. It is done as follows : —

From the cAo/i/a -palm two sticks, from two to three metres in length, are split and gradually elabo- rated, so as to have the section of a half-circle throughout their whole tapering length. Then, on the flat surface of each stick a small semicircular groove, some three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter, is cut, and the two pieces are cleverly joined together. The hole is then very skilfully finished and polished internally by means of a gummy cord, previously rolled in sand and dried. This operation concluded, the whole length of the weapon is then carefully wound around with strings made from the inner bark of the huimba-qmro, gummed together and covered with a thick coating of the resinous gum of the sealing-wax-tree. The mouthpiece is then attached, and this novel arm is ready for use.

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Another important weapon is the moruco, a light spear, with a poisoned tip, about two metres in length. The Indians generally carry eight or ten of them together in a bamboo case, and handle them with the greatest skill, throwing them from the hand to a distance of twenty to twenty -five metres. Bows are not used by the Huitotos. These spears are equipped with different types of points, accord- ing to the purpose for which they are to be used. Thus a spear the sides of which are provided with barbs is for hunting large animals like the tapir ; a round one with a sharp point is for war ; a spear with a sort of blade of bamboo, with two sharp edges, is for fishing ; while one having a dull, blunt point is used to kill birds without injuring their feathers. The points of most spears and arrows are of chonta.

The macana is a stout, heavy piece of hard wood, shaped like an oar, and is generally used only in combats at close quarters or between individuals. A well -delivered blow with this terrible weapon will spilt a man's head from crown to chin.

The methods of fishing employed by the Huitotos are similar to those of the Cionis, which are described in the chapter on those aborigines of the Upper Putumayo.

A peculiar apparatus, used by these Indians as a sort of wireless telegraph, is the manguare, which is formed by two logs of hard wood about two metres long and about forty and seventy centimetres in diameter respectively. These logs are pierced longitudinally by a narrow hole of a rectangular section, burnt in by heated stones, and are then fastened side by side. Thus, each log has two

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distinct sonorous surfaces, separated by this narrow, rectangular opening, and each surface gives out a different sound, for the longitudinal hollow is generally a little to one side of the centre of the log. One of these logs, being always thicker than the other, produces two grave tones, while the smaller trunk gives out two acute ones— in all, four notes. This instrument is generally suspended by a string from the roof timbers or from a high tree near the house, and, in order to prevent swinging, is tied by another string to a stick buried in the ground.

To communicate by this novel instrument the Indian steps between the two logs and with a stout club, tipped with leather, knocks alternately upon the sonorous surfaces of the two logs. A code is arranged, based upon the difference of tones and the length and number of the blows struck, so that all kinds of messages can be exchanged. I have distinctly heard messages sent from a distance of from ten to twelve kilometres— that is, on a calm day when there was no wind.

The dress of the men is very simple, being com- posed only of a broad belt of the tough, inner bark known as llanchama, from which another piece of the same material reaches down in front and, passing between the legs, is attached to the belt again behind. This garment is called moggen by the Huitotos. The tribes of the Upper Igara- parana have simplified this costume, and merely suspend from the front of the belt a small sheet of the invaluable llanchama. They sometimes wear, in addition to this, several bracelets of chambira fibre on their wrists and ankles.

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The garb of the women is still more primitive, for they are clothed only in their beauty and four bracelets, two of which they wear on their wrists and the other two on their ankles. I should state, however, that the Indians employed by Ordonez and Martinez and Serrano wore European clothes. The unfortunate slaves in the service of the Peruvian Amazon Company— except the enormous number of involuntary concubines, &c. — are, however, clothed precisely as described above.

As those Huitotos enslaved by the " civilising company" are so constantly employed in the ex- traction of rubber, the only food they get— omitting the extremely meagre and irregular supplies fur- nished by the Company, which are not worthy of consideration — is the small quantity of yucas and plantains that their women have time to cultivate and a few products of the forest, such as certain large worms they extract from the bark of different trees, the tender tops of the chonfa-palm, a few wild fruits, &c. The result is that many die of starvation. Serrano and the other Colombians, how- ever, gave their Indians time to supply their food, and consequently the latter did not suffer from hunger as their unfortunate brothers do at present.

The only beverage of the Huitotos is the cahiiana, a preparation of yuca and the pulp of a forest fruit known as the aguaje. It is of a dirty, brownish colour, and has an unpleasant, bitter taste, disagi'eeable in the extreme.

A custom very general, not only among the Huitotos but also among many of the "whites," is the use of the coca. The leaves are picked from the tree and, after being well toasted, are

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pulverised and mixed with the ashes of the burnt leaves of another plant— I could not ascertain its name— in order to take away the bitter taste observed when the coca is used alone. The drug is then ready for use, and, inserted into the mouth, is rolled up under the cheek, where they sometimes keep it for half a day at a time. The juice is swallowed.

It is well known that coca is a powerful stimu- lant, and the Huitotos when out in the forest collecting rubber find it very useful, especially as they often have to carry the rubber they gather several leagues on their backs with practically no food at all to sustain them. They claim that it takes the place of food on these marches, and it really does seem to enable them to perform wonder- ful feats of endurance. While at La Union, Duarte gave me several doses of the coca, which at first affected me with a slight nausea ; I soon became accustomed to it, however, and found it very useful on different occasions.

Sometimes the Huitotos hold one of their rare dances, which is an occasion of much festivity. It should be observed, however, that those poor wretches in the service of the " civilising com- pany " are now so enslaved and oppressed that they have no time nor spirit to indulge in these amusements, which formerly, when they were free and independent, were, so Serrano informed us, carried out as follows :—

Preparatory to beginning the dances the Huitotos used to paint themselves all over in various colours, some of the designs representing branches of trees, animals, and geometrical figures, while both men

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and women adorned themselves with their beautiful feather ornaments of many different colours and various necklaces of monkey and danta teeth. Around their bodies and legs they attached long strings of rattling shells, called cascabeles.

Then they began dancing with cadencious uniformity, marking time with their right feet, and at the same time singing in chorus their ancient songs, the peculiar and ear-splitting intonation of which was accompanied by blows upon the manguare, the beating of drums, and the shrill whistle of their flutes. They generally imbibed during these dances a goodly quantity of cahuana, and the chupe del tabaco was always an important feature. The few who possessed clothes generally wore them on these occasions, painting those parts of the body not covered by them. These dances used to go on from one house to another for several days in succession, and the manguare was hardly ever silent during this time.

The Huitotos often paint themselves on other occasions, one of the most common colouring matters being the huitoc or jagua, which also has the excellent property of being offensive to gnats and mosquitoes to such an extent that they will have nothing to do with persons painted with it.

The religion of the Huitotos is a confused mixture of several beliefs. Thus, they worship the sun and the moon and at the same time believe in the existence of a Superior Being, called Usinamu, and an inferior potentate, named Taifeiio, who is also supposed to be the Spirit of Evil. They also appear to believe in a future life to be spent in happy hunting-grounds, '&c., but these ideas are

GUAMARES IXUIAXS, OF THE HUITOTO TRIBE, I\ DANCE COSTUME.

Tjucep. ifi2

THE HUITOTOS 163

vague and confused and mingled with the most ridiculous superstitions.

In the days when the Colombians were para- mount in this district they used to bring down priests from Pasto and Mocoa to convert the Huitotos and introduce them to the ways and customs of civilisation and Christianity. Now that the Peruvian Amazon Company has monopolised the region priests are carefully excluded, and every- thing that tends to the instruction and enlighten- ment of the wretched aborigines is carefully done away with. Indeed, in order to frighten people and thus prevent them from entering that region, they have circulated most bloodcurdling reports of the ferocity and cannibalism of these helpless Indians, whom other travellers as well as Perkins and myself have found to be timid, peaceful, mild, industrious, and humble.

In conclusion, it is necessary to call attention to the fact that owing to the oppressions of the Peruvian Amazon Company — in whose service the greater part of the Huitotos, unfortunately, are— the numbers of these Indians are diminishing to an alarming degree, and, unless something be done to protect them, this noble race of aborigines will, in my opinion, soon disappear completely, as have so many others in the region of the Upper Amazon.

CHAPTER VI

THE DEVIL'S PARADISE

The next morning, January 3rd, Serrano took me out for a stroll in the forest, and, after considerable meditation, surprised me by proposing to sell us a half -interest in his business. He then went on to explain his reason, which, briefly, was that he considered that the Peruvian Amazon Company would not dare to molest him were he not a Colombian, and that if some foreigners were in- terested in his business they would have to keep their hands off him in order to avoid complications. This point seeming reasonable, I asked him about his profits and the price he thought proper, both of which seemed very satisfactory. Returning to the house, I looked over his books, which corre- sponded with what he had told me, and, after some more conversation, I agreed to consider his pro- position and talk it over with Perkins upon his arrival. To tell the truth I was greatly elated over this offer, for the price he asked was ridiculously low in comparison with the annual profits, as revealed by his books. His reason, too, seemed iogical, for I could not believe that the " civilising company " would dare to play any such games with Perkins and myself.

At about 2 p.m. Orjuela, a white, handsome,

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THE DEVIL'S PARADISE 165

determined-looking man of about thirty-five, arrived, in company with another gentleman, who was introduced to me as Senor Gustavo Prieto. Both seemed very decent fellows, and we all took a liking to them at once. They had just come from La Union, where they had learned of the capture of Martinez and the horrible raid on Serrano, already described. Orjuela then an- nounced that he had come here on his way to see Loayza, the manager of El Encanto, the Peruvian Amazon Company's chief post on the Cai^aparana, with a view of making some arrangement with him tending to put a stop to these occurrences.

The next morning we spent in discussing the situation. Orjuela was confident that if he saw Loayza and had a good, friendly, man-to-man talk with him they could come to some amicable agree- ment, while Serrano took a more pessimistic view of things, declaring that the Peruvians had for years tried to get possession of the Colombian establishments on the Caraparana, and that now, having a force of Peruvian soldiers to back them, they would take more active measures to attain their ends. This view, however, was shared by none of the others.

In the afternoon Acosta and Prieto set out for La Union in order to inform the Colombians there of the measures Orjuela had decided to take — viz., to demand an interview with Loayza, while Orjuela and Sanchez made preparations to set out on the following day for El Dorado, the last Colombian establishment, and there invite Loyaza to the meeting. They intended going by canoe down the Caraparana.

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At about six o'clock, in the midst of a pouring rain, Perkins arrived with the cargadoies carry- ing the effects that we were to sell Serrano. After he had changed his clothes and got outside of some food I told him of Serrano's proposal, which, after several gasps of amazement, he pronounced worthy