The narrative of a voyage to the Swan River/Chapter 3

not give you, my dear brother, any particulars of my voyage to this place, but refer you to my other letters of this date, which —— and —— will receive, for a description of it.

I have by no means been idle since my arrival here, but have "beat the bush" up both the Swan and Canning Rivers with two more settlers like myself, and now know what it is to sleep, for several nights together, upon a piece of bark for a feather bed and the sky for a covering. We, however, always contrived to keep a rousing fire a-head of us, and have reason to be thankful to Providence that our health has not been injured either by fatigue or exposure to the night air. This will give you some idea of the healthiness of the climate—the nights and mornings are very cold, but a good fire is every thing. I have already found out that, if you will join me, and add your small fortune to our combined exertions, we shall in a few years acquire a handsome independence, and the longer we apply ourselves to business, so much more valuable our property will become. I fear, however, that I am writing in fruitless expectation of your following me; and that you have been smitten with some fascinating young damsel or other; and, if so, pray take my advice—marry at once, and let your wife accompany you hither, for, to say nothing of the pleasure of female society, you know not how we male settlers miss the assistance of a woman to wash, cook, and sew for us. Provisions are plentiful here at present, but considerably dearer than in England; as, for example, beef is fifteen-pence per pound—brown sugar, 1s. per pound—potatoes, 1l. 1s. per cwt., and soap and starch enormously high. But this is not to be wondered at, for the Colony at present has produced nothing for the market. Many of the settlers, either from ignorance or want of money, did not bring out many of the necessaries they require, and of those that did, there are few who purchased more than they require for their own use.

If you take the trip, which, for your own sake as well as mine, I entreat you to do, by all means endeavour to bring as many young and respectable labourers as your finances will allow. But on no account take out one person whose character is blemished, or whom you think will either be inclined to insolence or laziness, for otherwise they will be of more trouble than profit. You can have no notion of the work necessary to be done upon an allotment, on which there is no hut to shelter you, no yard to confine stock of a night, no ground levelled for the plough—for if one labourer is required all the year upon a small farm in England, the whole of which is in an improved state, how much more is one wanted here, where every thing is in a state of nature. If you are acquainted with any industrious persons, who have the means only of paying their passage out, and providing themselves with bedding and clothes for two or three years, and a double stock of the tools they are accustomed to use: advise them to come here, and they may rely upon obtaining constant work; and if they save, as they ought to do upon 5s. a day, in two or three years may obtain an allotment for themselves, and, if they persevere in industry, will acquire a handsome property; for as the Colony rises, their prosperity will increase.

I must earnestly recommend all those who come out as steerage passengers, to have a list of every thing that they may be entitled to during the voyage, signed by the Captain and those that charter the vessel, for that may keep you from many an unpleasant difficulty and dispute when on board. I can assure you that, owing to this having been neglected by those who came out in the same ship with myself, there was frequently very disagreeable work during the voyage. We had not been out two months, when the ship's steward stopped the allowance of vinegar, as contained in the list given us by the ship's broker in London; then followed a non-supply of sugar; after this, oatmeal was refused to us, and instead of the halfounce of tea we received only a quarter of an ounce. And all these dishonest breaches of covenant we were obliged to put up with, without the possibility of redress, even when we landed, but were told that, if we were going on to Sydney, we might have obtained it there. Let me, then, most earnestly advise you to be upon your guard; trust no man's word, however plausible he may be, not even of the Owner or Broker, but have it down in black and white, and then there can be no disputes. But, if possible, come out in a vessel which is not permitted to land passengers, &c. at Swan River in her way to Sydney or Van Dieman's Land, but bound for the Swan River alone.

After having made up your mind what vessel to come out by, first find out what cabins are disengaged, and then fix on your berth, and have the key given you at the time of paying your passage money, for otherwise there may be some mistake when you send your bed, &c. on board. At the time the Steward promised you such a berth, he might have forgot that the Captain had assigned it to another gentleman; or if you engage a particular berth from the Captain, he may not be aware of some (of course) previous arrangement between the passenger in possession and the owners. I by no means think every owner, captain, or steward would impose upon you, many of them are persons of honourable principles; but you are a countryman, and, as such, I want to prevent your being imposed upon by any person who may wish to deceive or cheat you. Endeavour to be as near the middle hatchway as you possibly can for air and comfort, if you prefer coming out in the steerage. But if you engage a cabin in the steerage for yourself, and pay 40l. for it, you would be repaid in the end, to say nothing of the comfort of having it entirely to yourself, as I will presently state. But if you can afford to pay for a berth in the cabin, select one, if possible, upon the poop deck, as that will be more airy than in the lower cabins; if, however, you must go below, choose a berth as near the ladder as you can for purer air, and the nearer you are to the centre of the vessel, the less you will feel its motion. Now passengers are allowed to take as much luggage, free of freight, as can be conveniently stowed in their cabins: therefore, when your bed is put up, have what box or trunk you intend to hold the wearing apparel you will want during the voyage placed in your cabin, and fill up every spare inch with such articles as you and your fellow passengers may require on board, in addition to the allowance from the ship, such as small cases of raisins, currants, figs, mustard, tobacco, and cigars, these had better be put in square cases, for in this shape they will take up much less room.

A few gallons of spirits would be readily sold on board to great profit, they might be contained in small publican's barrels, or tin cases, with cocks and keys, (mind that) and a small measure to sell by; but in case you are unwilling to engage in this traffic, or come out in the cabin, in which case you could not carry on such a trade with propriety, let one of your labourers sell for you, taking care to keep a sharp look out upon him. Fail not to bring a considerable quantity of good, wholesome pickles; the green pickles sold in the shops are not of this description, as verdigris is often mixed with them, to give them a nice colour—also a few ounces of pepper, ginger, and other spices. If you do not want, or cannot sell these articles on board, there is a merchant here who will be happy to take them off your hands at a liberal profit. One of our passengers, a Scotchman, being used to long voyages, arranged his cabin upon this plan, and cleared a considerable sum during the voyage, by selling these articles quietly to the passengers: he was obliged, of course, to be careful not to have a crowd or any noise at his berth; and, therefore, you must be cautious, and, as soon as your "customers" are served, request them to take their "goods" and consume them in their own cabins. And throughout the passage, I would entreat you to avoid quarrelling with any one; be civil and obliging to all—never take a part, or side with any in party or dispute, but make it a rule to stand neuter; if, however, you must interfere, try to be a peacemaker rather than a peace-breaker.

I had nearly forgotten one main point—that is, to have a clear understanding with respect to cooking, either as may regard yourself, or your people in the steerage, (a cabin passenger need not stipulate upon this point, as he will dine with the Captain.) We had great annoyance and dispute throughout the voyage—some could have their victuals cooked comfortably, and others could not. But let all steerage passengers be sure to obtain an order, signed by the Captain; but even then they must have a card to play to keep the cook in good humour. On no account become familiar with him—nor thwart nor teaze him—or speak in a harsh commanding tone, but always with fair words; and, although prudence forbids too great liberality, yet a glass of grog, or a quid of tobacco now and then, to the cook, or to any sailor who is willing to render any little assistance in his power, will secure attention to what you may want, or wish to have properly cooked. I would recommend your purchasing some of the fresh meat which is cooked and put up for the use of persons in long voyages, as a wholesome change from salt provisions—and also some cakes of portable soup, or else you (like myself) will be laid up with the scurvy; but these, with plenty of pickles, will most likely prevent your having it. I suffered severely from it, but, not having these remedies, could obtain no relief until I got on shore. To keep off this disease as much as possible, pay strict attention to cleanliness, and by all means take as much exercise as possible, by walking the deck, holding out weights at arm's length, &c. and be sure to rub yourself well with a coarse, dry towel, night and morning. The way of avoiding or mitigating sea-sickness I have mentioned in the letter addressed to ——, and which of course you will read. But it is proper that your attention should be called to a subject of greater importance than passengers in general seem to be aware. Let it be your constant study to merit and obtain the good opinion of the Captain and cabin passengers, not by fawning and cringing, but by gentlemanly manners and conduct. By adopting such a line of conduct, you will not only have a safe conscience, but also, if you come out in the steerage, will gain permission "to walk the poop," where there will be plenty of room for exercise, otherwise your morning walks must be upon the other decks, which most likely will be crowded with stock, so that you will scarcely be able to step out, or even enjoy a "fisherman's walk," which is two steps—and the third, overboard. I was so fortunate as to succeed at last in having this privilege allowed me, but it was six weeks first; but afterwards, when I chose to change the scene, and felt inclined to take walking exercise, I paraded upon the poop, and was much relieved by even a temporary absence from the noise, bustle, and confusion, so common below deck.

Now observe! The Captain, upon his arrival here, will give in a report to the Governor, containing the name of every passenger—how he came out, whether in the steerage or cabin, and how he conducted himself throughout the voyage. So you see how necessary it is to be very circumspect, and to charge those who accompany you to behave with propriety, for character here, as well as at home, is of no small consequence; and if your behaviour is that which the Captain can truly commend, it will be of great service to you in the estimation of the Governor and Council. On the contrary, if you behave ill on board, you will be persecuted there, and have a bad name, which will be a curse to you for years in the Colony. When on the poop, you will find a man at the wheel who steers the ship; he is obliged to keep his eye on the compass in the box before him, to see that the vessel keeps her proper course. You will often observe the Captain or the Mate speaking to him and to the other sailors—and then always be silent, for nothing is more annoying to the Captain or sailors, than to have the word of command made indistinct by people's chattering—and never enter into conversation with them while upon duty, much less teaze them with silly and absurd questions—such as, where are we now? How many knots an hour are we going? When shall we reach the Swan River?

I need not caution you against the folly of volunteering your opinion upon the working the vessel or any other subject of seamanship which you cannot understand: but in working the ship, there are times when all hands are required to "put the ship about," and if you then see that help is wanted, never hesitate to lend a willing hand wherever it can be of use upon deck.

I will now proceed to another subject, and beg you particularly to recollect, that there are as yet no shops in the Colony, and therefore it will be necessary for all comers to bring a stock of Winter and Summer clothing sufficient for three years. For I understand that for two months in the year we shall find it very cold, with violent winds and heavy rain for days together, but no frosts. Now, the labourers at mid-day lie down for two hours on account of the heat, but they work earlier and later to make up for it. The mornings and evenings are even at this time (on the eve of Summer) quite cold, but they are bracing, and as soon as the sun is down, the night sets in. In the night, as well as in the day-time, I should find a dog of great service to me; the little property which I have, and cannot stow away in my tent, being exposed to all risks, and none but myself to protect it, so a dog would be my companion and protector. I beg, therefore, that you will bring out a bitch with you, not on account of her beauty, but bring one that is hard bitten, and will fetch any thing out of the water. For there are a multitude of ducks and swans shot in the rivers and lagoons, and cannot be got at for want of a good water-dog. Useful dogs are selling at high prices. The kangaroo-breed find purchasers at fifteen guineas each. They certainly are fine animals, much larger than a greyhound. If poor "Bumpus" was here, many pounds would be offered for him, for he will hunt and set any game in the water, or out of it. We have a large sort of quail, a beautiful bird, it is found in boggy ground, and a good setter would be very serviceable; it flies like the partridge, and is equally good for the table. In order to be provided with game, which abounds here, you should bring out a double-barrel gun, a rifle or long duck-gun, and an ample supply of powder, shot, flints, and lead. For all these are becoming scarce already, and will be more so before you arrive. Rifles are much sought after with us; so if it be in your power to purchase one or two, pray do not lose the opportunity. Take care to have a snug kennel made for the bitch on board, and provide a little sulphur and other dog-medicines in case she should require them, and make much of the poor thing on the voyage, otherwise she will droop and perhaps die; for dogs, like human beings, will lose their spirits if not encouraged and spoken to. You will, of course, see that she is regularly fed, but not overfed—give her water frequently yourself, and when near the Line be careful to shade her from the sun. Prevail upon whatever friends may accompany you to bring out some good useful dogs; and if the sort I have described cannot be purchased at a reasonable price, let them take out something of the lurcher kind, that can run fast to overtake the kangaroo,, of which there are many varieties, constitute the grazing animals. Their characters, and, excepting size and colour, their appearance, is in all the species and varieties nearly the same. The head is small, the mouth destitute of canine teeth, the eyes large, and the ears erect and pointed. The forepart and fore-legs of the animal are small, the latter being divided into five toes armed with strong claws. Those extremities are not used in running, though the animal makes use of them when feeding, and also as weapons of defence, for which they are by no means unavailing, either in striking blows, or in holding and hugging their adversaries, after the manner of a bear. Towards the hind quarters the whole of the race get comparatively thick and strong, and the hind legs are long•, powerful, and remarkably elastic. The hind feet are singularly formed ; they terminate in three toes, the central one remarkably long, and powerful in its articulation, and armed with a claw, which, in the larger species, is no simple weapon. The outside toe has also a claw of some size, but is not half the length of the middle one. The inside toe is of trifling dimensions, and terminates in two small claws, close together. The bottom of the foot is covered with an elastic substance, more abundant, and yielding more readily to pressure than that found on the foot of almost any other animal. It is hardly to be distinguished from a piece of thick caoutchouc, or India-rubber. This padding of elastic matter enables the kangaroo not only to stand firm upon a hard and smooth surface, but to alight, after an immense bound, without any injury to its feet, or concussion to its body. The fore-feet are padded in the same manner, though not so abundantly, and when it springs against an ascending surface, they assist in breaking its fall. The claw on the middle toes of the hind foot is the principal fighting weapon of the kangaroo, especially when the enemy comes to close quarters,—the enemy being grasped between the fore legs, and ripped open by a single stroke of this powerful weapon, moved, as it is, by the great muscular strength of the large leg. Some idea of the power of a kangaroo's hind leg may be formed from the fact, that the elasticity of the two legs are sufficient, without any fulcrum, to throw an animal, weighing between two and three hundred weight, a distance of sixty, or, it is said, sometimes even ninety feet, at a single bound, and that the instant the feet touch the ground, the animal is elevated to another leap.

The tail is large and very muscular, and the animal uses it as a counterpoise in hopping, and occasionally as a prop when it is standing erect, so that, in this position, it has a good deal the appearance of a three-footed animal with two hands,—it often using the fore-paws as hands, in plucking grass and conveying it to its mouth, or holding a bunch in one hand—oven shifting it from one to the other, till it be gradually eaten. The tail of the kangaroo is also a tolerably efficient weapon; as in hopping about, the tail is swung in all directions, and the stroke of it is sufficient to stun a moderately sized dog, or even to kill him outright. ,. .•

These are found by the colonial hunters to be, in a powerful animal, perfectly adequate to the repelling of a single dog, if he do not come upon the kangaroo by surprise. When chased, there is the stroke of the tail; and in addition to that, the jerking out of the hind leg, which, if it takes effect, is both a severe blow, and a still severer laceration,—as the powerful articulation of the central toe gives to that a very rapid motion, by means of which it tears while the foot is striking. Then, if the animal turns and stands at bay, the fore-feet strike while the enemy is not at close quarters; and if he once be grasped, there is the hug and the finishing stroke of the hinder foot. Even in water the kangaroo is formidable, and it seems to know that; for, sorely pressed, it takes to the water, if .there be water near, and instead of merely attempting to escape by swimming, as is the case with the stag, (though he, too, sometimes stands at bay in water) it is almost uniformly in order to keep them at bay, which it does by striking at the dogs, or by seizing them and thrusting them under water. Thus, even from the little that is known of the habits of those singular animals, we have in the larger ones a means of defence as singular as their form is, compared with that of European animals. Of these, they certainly approximate nearer to the stag than those of any other; though the form of the animal makes the means of putting the instinct in execution quite different.

Kangaroo hunting is one of the Australian sports; and, in open places, where the surface is not intersected with deep gullies, is successful: the dogs must, however, be trained to the sport, and if the kangaroo be large, there must be several of them. If the country be intersected and contain rocks or brushes of underwood, the chase has little chance of success, as the kangaroo bounds over those obstacles, while the dogs are obliged to make a circuit.

Several species even of large kangaroos have been enumerated by naturalists, and are also named by the colonists. The species mentioned by the colonists are the forest kangaroo, which is of an ashen grey colour, with a slight tinge of brown, and darker on the under part of the body. It gets the name of forest kangaroo, from being chiefly found on those dry places, partially covered with trees, to which the name of forest is given—the tangled woody surface in the latitude of Sydney being generally composed of small and stunted trees, and being called bush, or brush, and not forest. Another, which is styled the mountain kangaroo, is black, with shaggy hair, and found upon the hills. There is a third, the red kangaroo, so called from its colour, which is chiefly found on the plains, or more open forests. Its fur is smooth and soft. In the interior a kangaroo has been met with, with fur so long and soft, as to get the name of the woolly kangaroo. These are all animals of considerable size, being found of the weight of between two and three hundred pounds; and they are all sought after for food; while their skins, in some places of the country, more especially in the south-western parts of New Holland, and in Van Dieman's Land, are used by the native inhabitants for cloaks, while the colonists dress and prepare them as leather. When used for food, the fore part of the kangaroo is but little regarded ; the great mass of the muscles being about the loins and the hind quarters. They are remarkably destitute of fat, except, at certain seasons, a portion near the insertion of the tail. The tail makes excellent soup; and the flesh of the animal is generally chopped into small pieces, and stewed with the addition of a quantity of pork,—the dish so prepared being locally termed "a steamer," and being by no means despicable food.

Among the rocky and broken places, and on the more sterile islands, there are several species of much smaller kangaroos, which are seldom found exceeding; sixty pounds in weight, and often falling far short of that.

The kangaroos produce only one young at a time, which, after it has been for some time detached from the nipple in the pouch of the mother, occasionally leaves that receptacle to browse the same herbage on which she feeds.—Picture of Australia. for it bounds along at an astonishing rate. It will be worse than useless to bring out an old or inferior dog, the freightage of one would be £5, and the captain provides his food, which of course are the scraps of the table, but if yourself and friends take out several, you may possibly prevail upon the captain to convey them at £3. each. Having already related how I was docked in my rations who could both ask and complain, how much more careful should you be that your dumb animals are properly fed and not ill-treated.

Bear with whatever little disagreeables you may meet with, they will seldom arise from the sailors, who are not disposed to meddle with those who let them alone; but captains are often ill-tempered and irritable, especially when they are teazed by those they have to deal with, and among the passengers you will probably meet with overbearing and consequential fellows, who will be more troublesome if you appear vexed by their behaviour. Remember you will not be cooped up with them long, and avoid any dispute with them, still less an appeal to the captain; for although he may decide in your favour, he cannot reconcile the other party to you, who perhaps will take an opportunity of venting the grudge he cherishes against you.

Having so far given the best advice in my power as to your conduct on board-ship, I will now state the different articles (as they occur to me) which you had better bring out, partly for your own use and partly for sale. Purchase (in proportion to the extent of your funds) a quantity of cigars and mild tobacco, in addition to what you take as sea-store, citric acid, hams, and flitches of bacon. These, at present, are selling at high prices, but be extremely careful that these last articles are well packed, not as if they were going to be sent off by canal into the country, but for a long voyage. If they arrive here in good condition, they will be quickly disposed of at a liberal advance. Add also, for speculation, an assortment of quills or pens, writing paper of all sorts, ink, sealing-wax, and waters, a few razors, scissars, and a writing-desk or two. Every denomination of kitchen utensils you may safely venture upon, as the wood-fires in the open air make sad work with saucepans and kettles. If I had not purchased mine in England, I must have paid very dear for them here. A small assortment of common crockery-ware carefully packed, a flour-mill, and an assortment of colonial agricultural implements, may be safely purchased as a "venture;" for if they are not sold even at a tolerable profit, you would be entitled to a grant of land in proportion to their value. I would propose that we endeavour to take up as much land as ever we are entitled to, as there is no knowing what may turn up in the course of a few years, or how the value of land in the Colony may encrease, and then, from having made some slight improvements we may dispose of it to considerable advantage.

I hope you will have some cross-cut and other saws with you, and those should be well packed in tin cases, or they will become as rusty as old iron. Gate-hooks and thimbles, &c. will be found very useful, as well as some copper such as they cover ships' bottoms with; for, unfortunately, we have had two tents burned down in consequence of not having some screen to prevent the fire from being blown about too forcibly; and on this account I am in a constant dread, for, knowing to my sorrow what fire is, I fear it much more than the boisterous elements which I encountered in my passage for more than four months.

You will require an iron bedstead, with a head and covering of fine net or muslin, otherwise at some seasons you will be devoured by the musquitoes. They are terribly annoying. I hope you will, on no account, omit an article of the greatest use to a settler immediately upon his arrival, and that is a truck to convey goods upon, and it ought to be so constructed that a pony or mule might draw it as well as a man—bring also some wheelbarrows, which are scarce here, and in great demand. I think that both trucks and wheelbarrows might be so made as to be taken to pieces and put together again when they are wanted for use, and as they could be packed in much less compass, the expence of taking them out would be reduced one-half.

Fail not to purchase cart-ropes, corn-sacks, and selves, with some useful books upon agriculture, farriery, and brewing, together with a small butterchurn, pails, barrels, and kegs, these last are in great demand here—even for a common one I have been obliged to give fifteen shillings; they are so requisite an article, in fact, persons here cannot well do without them. Should you be able to afford it, bring a time-piece and sun-dial; for, to learn the time of day, however satisfactory at home, is most essential upon an exploring party, or any other excursion. Unfortunately, I have to lament the spoiling of my excellent watch, as you shall learn. In my last expedition up the river, the boat having got foul of some rocks, another settler and myself were obliged to get out to push her head round, when I slipped into a hole, which took me up over head and ears. You know I cannot swim, but Nature directed me to make an effort by which, and the assistance of my companions, I regained the boat without hurt or bruise, but thoroughly soaked. The water as you may imagine had got to the works of my watch, which soon stopped, and on opening it to examine the cause, I found to my sorrow that the works were already rusted. I employed a person who was strongly recommended to me, to clean and put it in order, but if possible he has made it worse. I shall keep it carefully wrapped up until I can meet with an opportunity of sending it to England by some friendly hand, where perhaps it may be repaired and come out again upon duty. In this dilemma I entreat you to bring me one out, not an expensive, but a plain good hunting-watch.

I shall now mention another article, as essentially necessary as any of those I have hitherto named, and that is, a safety-lamp to burn in the tent, for the wind penetrates at every crevice, and blows a common light about which makes it very dangerous, especially when there is gunpowder in the place. A few lanthorns with spare horn, would be readily purchased, for be it remembered that our buildings are composed of timber and thatch, and if they once caught fire would soon be in a blaze, and then, where are we ? Fail not to bring an ample quantity of cotton and good lamp oil, for I am now writing by a miserable glimmering of fat pork and cotton, my best substitute for candle or lamp.

You may perhaps think that I shall never have done mentioning the articles with which I recommend an emigrant to this place to be provided; but fish-hooks and lines would sell well, as would twine in any quantity.

If you can purchase a chest of shoes of all sorts and sizes, especially children's, and a few pair of boots with cloth tops, you would find them answer as well as any other speculation; bring some leather or cloth gaiters also, for they as well as stout shoes are much wanted.

There are not more than three watering pans in the Colony, and these are so useful and valuable, that I am informed none of their owners will lend them. And now to crown the whole, I hope you will provide a large second-hand sail in good condition, or else a tarpaulin, for until we can find time to build warehouses, every description of property must be damaged from exposure to the weather and rains. As we naturally feel most anxious to learn any news from our native country, you must have the kindness to bring out lots of newspapers, and any periodical publications of recent date, which you can pick up on reasonable terms. And if our friends will from time to time send out a file of newspapers, they will provide us with a fund of agreeable intelligence, which we shall feel thankful for when the rains confine us within walls.

I have had so many things to direct your attention to, that I had nearly omitted to notice that most useful garment to a workman in a hot country—a flannel jacket, with sleeves, made of good materials; for it will be more comfortable and healthy to work in than a shirt; bring out a dozen of them for yourself and me, taking care to have them made large enough under the arms, or else they will be uncomfortable to the wearer, and soon wear out. A few large umbrellas would easily be disposed of.

When you come out endeavour to obtain as many letters as you can from persons of note, as introductions to the Governor, or any of those who may hold high situations in the Colony, for passports of this sort may be of infinite service to you, and will convince those who are in the Colony, that you are neither a scape-grace sent out by friends to make a last shift, nor a runaway from creditors.

It was thought you know by us that a printing press would have been one of the first things established here, but there is none at present, nor any likelihood of it for some time to come. All public matters are in such a state of confusion, that it seems difficult to decide what ought to be done first, for the arrivals from England have been much more numerous than was expected: and (as before observed) labouring hands are so scarce that no work or building can make much progress. We muster here already upwards of 800 settlers, and several shiploads of settlers are daily expected.

As yet we are ignorant of the exact laws by which we are to be governed, but I hope before your arrival every thing will be in a regular channel, and that, with the help of God, I shall have some place to shelter you.