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 ARRIVAL OF MAHARAJA 51

his summer capital by boat. On such occasions the Resident and his staff, all the State officials, and many of the Europeans resident in Srinagar, go by boat to meet His Highness some distance below the city. One such occasion I remember when the Maharaja arrived on the most perfect day in spring. Before the time of his arrival the river was alive with craft of every description, from the Resident’s state barge of enormous length, and manned by about fifty rowers dressed in scarlet, to light shikaras, and even two motor boats. As we emerged from the town the banks on either side were covered with fresh green grass. The poplars and some magnificent chenar trees over- hanging the river were in their freshest foliage. And coming up a long reach of the broad glisten- ‘ing river was the Maharaja’s flotilla, with their long lines of red and of blue oarsmen giving colour to the scene.

The two flotillas joined and slowly made their way through the city. On either side were piled up masses of wooden houses, some low, some high, some leaning to one side, some to the other, none straight and no two alike. All were crowded with people craning at the windows to see the proces-