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 4 SCENERY AND SEASONS

allows that it is impossible to give in a single picture the broad general effect of those wide land- scapes and of the snowy ranges stretching from one horizon to another. For that impression and for the varying effect of spring and autumn, of winter and summer, dependence must be on the pen alone.

Which is the most lovely season each must decide for himself. In the spring we think the spring the mdst exquisitely beautiful. In the autumn we say that nothing could exceed the beauty of the brilliant autumn tints. But as it is in the spring that most visitors first arrive, and as it is the real beginning of the year, there will be some advantage in commencing in that season the delicate task of describing Kashmir.

In the first week in March I once drove into Kashmir—fortunately, in fine weather. In other years at this season I might not have been so fortunate, and the reader must take this possibility of drenching rain, of muddy roads, and dangerous landslips.into account. For that purpose, however, there is no need to offer aid to his imagination, as rainy days are much the same all the world over.

The long drive from the Railway Station at Rawal Pindi, 196 miles from Srinagar, was nearly ended. We had steadily ascended the