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, the first European to enter Kashmir, writing in 1665, says: “In truth, the kingdom surpasses in beauty all that my warmest imagination had anticipated.” This impression is not universally felt, for one writer on Kashmir speaks of it as overrated, and calls the contour of the mountains commonplace and comparable to a second-rate Tyrolean valley. And fortunate it is that in this limited earth, of ours we every one of us do not think alike. But I have seen many visitors to Kashmir, and my experience is that the bulk of them are of the same view as the above-mentioned Frenchman. They have read in books, and they have heard from friends, glowing descriptions of the country; but the reality has, with most, exceeded the expectation. Some have found the 1