Page:Willich, A. F. M. - The Domestic Encyclopædia (Vol. 2, 1802).djvu/25

7&#93; whom there are two to each loom, tread alternately, on the right, and on the left step of the treddle which raises and lowers the threads of the warp equally; between which latter they throw the shuttle transversely, the one to the other. Every time the shuttle is thrown, and a thread of the wool inserted in the warp, they strike it jointly with the same frame: to this is attached the comb, or reed, through the teeth of which the threads of the warp have been previously passed; the blow being repeated as often as is necessary. Having filled the whole warp with the woof, the cloth is unrolled from the beam on which it had been wound while weaving, and given to be cleansed from the knots, ends of thread, &c.; an operation which is usually performed with iron nippers.

In this state it is carried to the fullery, and scowered with urine, or with a species of potters' clay steeped in water. As soon as the cloth is again cleared from the earth or urine, it is returned to the former hands, for taking off, as before, the smaller straws, &c.; when it is delivered to the fuller, to be beaten and fulled with hot water, in which a proper quantity of soap has been dissolved. After this second fulling, it is smoothed, or pulled lengthways by the lists, in order to take out all wrinkles and unevenness. This operation is continued till the cloth is brought to a proper breadth, when it is washed in clear water, to cleanse it from the soap, and afterwards given wet to the carders, to raise the hair, or nap, with the teasel (Dipsacus fullonum, L.) The cloth-worker then takes it in hand, and performs what is called, the first shearing, after which it is again delivered to the carder;, who pass it repeatedly under the teasel, in proportion to the quality of the stuff. It is next returned to the cloth-worker, and from him to the carders, where the same operation is continued till the nap on the surface be properly ranged.

Thus prepared, the cloth is sent to the dyer, who, after having given it the proper colour, immerses it in pure water, and delivers it, while wet, to the worker. The latter lays the nap with a brush on the table; and then suspends it on tenters, where it is sufficiently stretched, and brushed while wet, in order to bring it to its proper dimensions. As soon as it is completely dried, it is again brushed on the table, to finish the laying of the nap; after which it is folded, and laid cold under a press, to make it smooth, and to give it a gloss. When it is taken out of the press, and the papers for glossing it are removed, the cloth is fit for immediate sale, or use.

With respect to the manufacture of mixed cloths, or those in which - the wools are dyed previously to their being wrought, the process varies but little from that just described, except in what relates to the colour.

Cloth, in general, constitutes one of the most necessary articles of domestic convenience: hence many ingenious persons have attempted to discover substitutes for Flax and Hemp, of which we shall give a short account, in their alphabetical order.

Woollen cloths being liable to be stained, or soiled, by a variety of accidents, different methods have been contrived to remove such spots, and thus restore the cloth to its former beauty. When stained