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In proceeding to make a shoe to order, the shoemaker measures the foot at various points; but of all the measurements he takes, none have a decided influence on the shape of the sole except the length, and perhaps the circumference of the foot at the root of the toes.

The length, however, is in all cases the more important, and in proceeding to plan out the sole, it is laid out in a straight line, a little is added to it, and the sole receives one of two shapes, according as the shoe is intended to fit the right or left foot, or either foot indiscriminately.

If the shoe is intended to be used for either foot, the line alluded to forms the centre round which the outline of the sole is symmetrically constructed, as in the accompanying Figures 5 and 6. The straight boundary line in front of the heel forms a right angle with the middle line.

If, however, as is more usual, the shoes are made for the right and left foot respectively, the outline of the sole corresponding to one foot only (Fig. 7), then the construction of the sole and heel is precisely the same as before; and the only difference is in that intermediate part called by shoemakers "the waist." The outer line of this waist is curved outwards, especially in