Page:Wanderings of a Pilgrim Vol 2.djvu/559

 view of the Western Isles, very much gratified; the air was sharp and cold, the sunshine brilliant; and I believe every one on board enjoyed the scene.

23rd.—The Western Isles invisible.

24th.—The day was cold and raw, nearly a calm. At night the sailors sent off a tar-barrel with a fire in it, which went blazing along; a nautical method of celebrating Christmas Eve.

25th.—A cold raw day, with rain and fog. Divine service was performed in the cuddy. The sea almost a calm.

31st.—With a fine wind we are going nine knots off the Lizard, and looking forward to the termination of our voyage; but I cannot quit the vessel without expressing how much we have been satisfied with all the arrangements on board, which reflect great credit on the owners of the ship; and how much the attention of the commanding officer to our wishes and accommodation has removed the annoyances that old Indians necessarily must experience during a sea voyage: the vessel is well manned, her provisions are excellent and abundant, every attention is shown to the passengers, and the "Essex" is a good ship.

1846, Jan. 1st.—At 6, off Portland Race, it was bitterly cold, and I began to speculate if it were possible to exist in England.

2nd.—Off Folkstone, at 2 —I quitted the "Essex" in a Deal boat, over which the waves danced, and the wind was bitterly cold; landed at Folkstone in about four hours, half starved, cold, and hungry, and took refuge at the Pavilion Hotel, where a good dinner and the luxuries of native oysters and fresh butter made us forget all the ills that flesh is heir to.

3rd.—Started per train at 7, and found ourselves once more in London.