Page:Wanderings of a Pilgrim Vol 2.djvu/495

 procurable,—as high as eight, ten, or fifteen thousand rupees,—that are brought here by the fruit-carriers, who bring grapes and pears from those countries. Here are several miniature painters, and also venders of miniatures on ivory, said to be likenesses of different native princes, their queens, and nāch girls; and also true likenesses of native servants in costume, tradesmen, and beggars. Delhi jewellery of the best gold is brought on board the steamers by sending for the dealers. Here is also an old observatory, and two very high and slender minarets, one of which has a slight inclination; travellers ascending them are expected to give to the keeper the fee of a rupee. From their tops is a fine view of the city, the adjacent country, and the river,—so gratifying a sight should not be passed over by any traveller. Provisions are procurable; partridges, quail, and wild ducks of all sorts, are to be obtained. Steamers remain at Rāj ghāt to take in passengers, to discharge and take in packages, and to receive coals. The civil and military station is about four miles inland, direct from Rāj ghāt, where reside the commissioner, the judge, the magistrates, the collectors, the general, and all the officers of the native regiments quartered here, and some European artillery.

"Letters must be sent for to the post-office, as they are not forwarded, which is very inconvenient. The city is about two miles long: the natives are very uncivil to strangers. Numerous fanatics are here, who drown themselves, believing that the holy Ganga and the city of the most holy secures them eternal happiness. Benares is from Calcutta, viâ Bhagirathī, 696 miles; via Sunderbands, 984; and by land or dāk, 428. Letters take four days, banjhīs seven days. Palanquins are procurable here, but they are infested with vile vermin."

So much for the "Directory," from which I differ. So far from the distant view of the city giving you the best idea of it,—it is not until you are in the midst of and close to the various and beautiful ghāts and temples just beyond the minārs that you can have an idea of the beauty of Benares. The best conveyance in which to visit and sketch the ghāts is a small boat with an awning.