Page:Wanderings of a Pilgrim Vol 2.djvu/31

 attended by her ladies; and a number of Mahratta horsemen ride at a certain distance, about two hundred yards around her, to see that the kurk is enforced; which is an order made public that no man may be seen on the road on pain of death.

The Hindoos never kept their women in parda, until their country was conquered by the Muhammadans; when they were induced to follow the fashion of their conquerors; most likely, from their unveiled women being subject to insult.

The Bāiza Bā'ī did me the honour to express herself pleased, and gave me a title, "The Great-aunt of my Grand-daughter," "Gaja Rājā Sāhib ki par Khāla." This was very complimentary, since it entitled me to rank as the adopted sister of her Highness.

A part of the room in which the ex-Queen sits is formed into a domestic temple, where the idols are placed, ornamented with flowers, and worshipped; at night they are lighted up with lamps of oil, and the priests are in attendance.

The Mahratta ladies are very fond of sailing on the river, but they are equally in parda in the boats as on shore.

The next day the Bāiza Bā'ī sent down all her horses in their gay native trappings, for me to look at; also two fine rhinoceroses, which galloped about the grounds in their heavy style, and fought one another; the Bā'ī gave five thousand rupees (£500) for the pair; sweetmeats and oranges pleased the great animals very much.

When Captain Ross quitted, her Highness was placed under the charge of the agent to the Governor-general. I visited the Bā'ī several times, and liked her better than any native lady I ever met with.

A Hindoo widow is subject to great privations; she is not allowed to wear gay attire or jewels, and her mourning is eternal. The Bāiza Bā'ī always slept on the ground, according to the custom for a widow, until she became very ill from rheumatic pains; after which she allowed herself a hard mattress, which was placed on the ground; a charpāī being considered too great a luxury.

She never smoked, which surprised me: having seen the