Page:Wanderings of a Pilgrim Vol 2.djvu/293

 the storm; even by daylight, he passed over it with difficulty—perhaps the darkness aided me, as it prevented my being giddy.

11th.—Rode to the Botanical Gardens; observed several young tea plants, which were flourishing. The bright yellow broom was in full flower; it put me in mind of the country by the sea-side at Christchurch, Hants, where the broom is in such luxuriance. We feasted on Cashmere apricots, which, though not to be compared to those of Europe, were agreeable to the taste.

12th.—Storms, storms,—rain, rain,—day by day,—night by night: thermometer at noon, 66°.

17th.—A bear having been killed, I procured several bottles of bear's grease. Apricot oil was recommended also for the hair.

I bought some Dēodar oil, made from the white cedar; the smell is vile; it is good for rheumatic pains; if rubbed in ''too much'' it will produce a blister.

Baskets full of currants were brought for sale; they were only fit for tarts. Fresh figs, pretty good, were sent me, also some tolerable pears of good size. Tar, called cheer-ke-tel, is excellent in the Hills.

25th.—Was persuaded to go to a ball given by the bachelors of Landowr and Mussoorī, an event in my quiet life. Cholera has appeared in the bazār: the Hill-men are so much alarmed that they run away from service. My paharīs came to request I would let them all depart and pay them their wages: this I refused to do: they pleaded their fear of the cholera. At length they agreed to remain, if I would give them a kid to sacrifice to the angry goddess who resides in the mountain, and whom they believe has brought the illness amongst them—they are extremely superstitious. What can you expect from uneducated men? "If grass does not grow upon stones, what fault is it in the rain ?"—i. e. it is unreasonable to expect learning from him who has not the means or capacity to acquire it.