Page:Vol 3 History of Mexico by H H Bancroft.djvu/787

Rh of dress, which were generally black, the Indians adhered to the quieter blue. Latterly the European fashions received more attention among the wealthy, but ever combined with an excessive parade of jewelry and a frequent change of attire. Even the men affected jewelry, and often sprinkled their apparel and belongings with diamonds. Particular pride was taken in the abundant black hair, which the women wore exceedingly long, even to the feet, often loose, but generally in broad plaits, with floral and other more elaborate adornments that formed as a rule its sole covering even when they went abroad. Indian males allowed their hair to reach the shoulder, and regarded its curtailment as a disgrace.

While the bath was general enough, the women cannot be accused of excessive tidiness; a slovenly appearance too often prevailed among the better classes during the morning hours, and among the rest during the week days, manifesting itself especially in uncombed hair and stale oily cosmetics, but covered as well as fostered by the all-shielding mantilla or shawl. Another not exactly attractive feature was the prevalence of smoking among the fair sex, even in public assemblies; and yet they sought to dissimulate on this point, especially before parents, in the presence of whom it was considered disrespectful to display the cigarette.

Gloss seemed to cover almost everything. A legal whitening covered the aboriginal admixture in the veins; a title the horny hand or stigma of tradesman; a showy dress or shielding mantle the negligence beneath; a few shallow acquirements the lack of education; a self-deceptive egotism the absence of profundity; a lightsome smile and sympathetic tone the lurking love for such barbaric sports as bull and cock