Page:Vol 3 History of Mexico by H H Bancroft.djvu/786

766 described in the introduction to my History of Central America, the shielding capa and mantilla, for the respective sexes, being also here the striking feature. Among men prevailed the broad-brimmed hat with low crown, shirt with wide collar loosely bound by a bright necktie, gaudy vest, and short jacket, kneebreeches with leggings, or long trousers open on the outer side below the knee, and provided with rows of metal buttons and displaying the white drawers. Reaching only to the hips, the trousers, often with flaps thrown back, allowed a glimpse of the many colored sash which bound the drawers and hung: in a knot behind from under the jacket. Each of these vestments, from hat to leggings, was braided and embroided with silk, according to the wealth of the wearer and the skill and devotion of the wife or mistress. It was only too common to invest all surplus means on these decorations, and to combine them with superior fabrics. When travelling a serape or manga was used, consisting of an oblong or square blanket with a slit in the center through which the head was passed. The dress of women appeared less complex, and included a chemise, with woollen or starched muslin skirt, and the small rebozo shawl which hung from the head over the shoulder, with one end flung across the bosom to the opposite shoulder, and high enough to cover the lower half of the face. Bodices and jackets more or less gaudy were added according to the occasion; then there were glittering glass beads for the neck, and satin shoes for the bare feet. Silk and velvet were widely used, and rich embroidery and braiding like those of the men, a favorite gala-covering being a shawl called batas, so stiff with this embroidery as to stand erect. Variegated sashes could be seen everywhere, and bright colors prevailed among the upper classes; except in the more substantial