Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/98



FOOTMAN'S COATEE. Diagram 95.

Style: Similar to Dress Coat, with pointed lapel, but cut large enough to be fastened together in front with links.

Generally made with two holes above and three below turn, the present tendency is three above and two below, as per diagram.

Skirt cut away swallow-tail fashion.

A sword flap, 11 long by 2 wide and pointed at the back, is put on the centre of skirt.

Some put them on to start from the waist seam.

The lapel should be cut on the crease, as Diagram 97.

The widths of lapel are indicated on Diagram 95.

The lapel comes to bottom of strap of skirt.

The cuff is the same as Diagram 96.

Long side edges down back pleats, as for coachman.

Links, in the form of two buttons, fastened together with a split ring, should be supplied.

Twenty-two large and four small buttons are required for Coatee.

Skirts always lined with same cloth.

If edges are piped the piping goes round collar, lapels, strap, and front of skirt, up the centre opening of back, across the cuffs, and round the top, back, and bottom of sword flap.

A fair amount of ease should be allowed over chest and the waist cut 1, 3, 41, 81, 91, 201, to 1 inch over half waist measure.