Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/94

 Draw line at right angles to 0, 3½, 11, 18½, 20½.

0 to 3½, one-twelfth breast less 4 inch.

3½4 to 9¼, width of back plus ¾ inch.

Width of back scye, 2½ to 3 inches.

Width of back, at waist, the same quantity.

Draw line 2¼ to 18½, and hollow at ¾4, ¾ of an inch.

Take out 1¼ suppression between 3, 4½, and sweep from B to C by 2¼.

11 to 12, one-fourth breast.

Square down to A, hollow at 11½, ½ inch, and complete side-body.

A to *, one-sixth of the disproportion.

Square depth of scye line from 12 to 26 by 12, *.

Making 11, 12, 2 b half chest measure plus 2 inches.

From 26 to 15 is the across chest measure.

Find neck point F by Registered Syuare, placing the corner at 15 and the angle line on line 15, 26.

From 15 to F is the front shoulder measure less width of back neck.

15 to D is the over-shoulder measure less 11, W of back.

Width of shoulder quarter less than ¾, 9¼ of back.

F to V, one-twelfth breast less ½ inch.

V to I, same as F, V, or to taste.

Measure up waist to measure, ½, 3, 4¼, 11½ and 12½, 29½, half waist measure plus 2 inches.

Draw breast line I, J, 29½.

Square across from C to G, hollow over hips 1 inch, and curve waist seam up at G ½ to 1 inch.

The round at J is either drawn in and pressed upwards or reduced by a A as shown.

SKIRT.

Draw lines C, G and C, 9, at right angles: make C to 9, 9 inches.

9 to 1, 1 inch; draw line from C through 1 to I; add on ½ inch of round at 9.

Round over the hips ¾ at E, and drop front ½4 inch at G.

Allow only about ½ inch for fulling on over hips.

Shape the front at H fairly well forward.

The sleeve is cut as previously described, but care must be taken to avoid excessive fulness at top.

It must not be cut too wide at elbow or cuff, rather less than proportions given will suffice.