Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/92

 Width of strap one-third top from E to 1.

Strap is made 14 wide in front and 1½ at back.

Width of skirt at bottom about the same width as length of strap.

Round front of skirt away, as illustrated, and complete as diagram.

Considerable variation has been made in the outline of skirts during recent years, so it will be well to keep posted up in latest styles from our fashion plates.

THE LAPEL. Diagram 90½.

Hollow slightly at sewing to edge on account of the very round fronts to foreparts.

Width of lapel at top 1¾, widest part 2 inches, bottom 1½.

This is how they are cut in best West End trades.

The lapel must be cut long enough to come to the bottom of strap.

Some of the best West End trades cut the lapel and forepart in one.

ROLL COLLAR. Diagram 91.

The usual plan is to lower front of gorge, as here shown, cutting a short lapel and long collar.

Some firms cut the forepart, collar and lapel all in one, thus avoiding seams, except just at the neck where a fish is taken out to obtain the necessary spring. Either plan works satisfactorily.

The principal thing is to get a nice run to outer edge of lapel.

CORPULENT MORNING COAT. Diagram 92.

Measures: 11, 181, 201, 36, 81, 21, 11, 16, 23, 48, 50.

The proportionate figure is 4 inches smaller at waist than chest,thus 48, 44.

The amount of disproportion is found by the difference between the ideal 44 and actual 50, namely 6 inches.

0, 3½1, one-third depth of scye.

0, 11, depth of scye.

0, 18½, natural waist length.

0, 20½, fashion waist length.

0, 36½, full length plus ½ inch.

18½ to ½, ½ inch; draw back seam from 0 to ½.