Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/91



DRESS COAT. Diagram 90.

Measures: 17, 19, 39, 6½, 20, 32, 8, 12½, 17, 36, 32.

Principal styles: 1. Pointed lapel faced with silk to edge of lapel (Diagram 121) or to the end of the holes. 2. Roll collar (Diagram 123), on which the silk is carried right round the collar.

Leading characteristics: Lightness, smartness, and style.

All parts must be arranged in harmony with a garment intended for full dress and be the reverse of clumsy.

This back is narrowed at waist and back pitch.

Sidebody is also made narrower.

Waist suppression at 2¾f, 4. is 1¼.

The amount 9 to 20 is half chest plus 2 inches.

The waist 1, 2¾, 4, 8, and 9 to 19½, is cut to the nett waist measure.

The dress coat is always worn open and the lapel rolls to the waist.

The gorge is always lowered 1 inch or more.

The shape of front of forepart at 13½, 20, is quite a matter of taste, and only affects the outline of lapel.

The waist seam should be cut long enough in front to allow the strap of skirt to just cover bottom of vest.

I suggest lowering forepart 1 inch below line at 1.

I have indicated a fish taken out of side of forepart, but that is a matter of taste.

THE SKIRT.

Draw line E 1, E 9 at right angles.

E to 9 is 9 inches always.

9 to I, 1 to 1½ inches; draw line from E through 1 and add on ½ inch round.