Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/88



D. B. FROCK COAT. Diagram 88.

Measures: 9, 17, 19, 40, 63, 20, 32, 8, 121, 17, 36, 32.

Obtain an accurate idea of style desired, buttoned or un-buttoned, etc.

All the points of the body are found as described for the Morning Coat.

On this diagram we illustrate the sweep method of finding the neck point. Deduct 0, ¾ from front shoulder measure, and by the remainder, sweep from 12½4 in the direction of F.

Add 1 inch to the quantity thus used, and sweep a second time, using point 20½ as a pivot.

Where these sweeps cross each other locates the neck point.

Find D, as before described.

In shaping the front of gorge bear in mind that the outline

at X, I, 20½, in large measure governs the shape of the turn, and it is always well to make X. I straight, as a curved drawing seam is very ugly.

A little additional width beyond breast line at I is often an improvement.

The waist seam is hollowed 1 inch at hips, but is not sunk below the line at *, it being an important point to arrange the waist seam on the two sides to run in a continuous curve.

THE LAPEL.

Draw line J, K, straight for ordinary three button style.

For very high buttoning fronts make it hollow, adding on 1 inch at J.

For very low rolling coats make it round, taking off inch or so at J.

The width and shape of lapel is a matter of taste.

I suggest 2 inches at waist, 2¼ at widest part, 2¼ at top, as good standard quantities for present style.