Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/86

 Hollow at 1, 1 inch, and drop it in front at G about ¾ below line.

Add on 11 for button stand, and shape front to taste or fashion.

E to 9 is 9 inches.

9 to 1, 1 to 1½ inches.

Add on ½1 inch of round.

Round over hips ¾1, and take out ½ inch at front G.

Collar (Diagram 87), 1, 3, crease row straight.

3 to 5, depth of fall; 5, 4, depth of stand; 4, 6, depth of fall overlap, ¼ at 8.

The new low-rolling Morning Coat is cut as Diagram 86, adapted as described for the low-rolling Lounge, on page 58.

THE NEW WEST END MORNING COAT.

The most stylish coat made in the West End at the beginning of 1903 is the Low-rolling, Single-breasted, Forward-skirted Morning Coat, with the edges flat braided. The waist made very close fitting, and plenty of fulness over the hips. The style of turn here shown is a typical West Ender. The diagram is self-explanatory, the points all being found as previously described. The shaping of the skirt is a matter of taste, but the leading feature is its length—40 inches for figure 5 feet 9 inches high,—and skirt cut very forward. The collar must be cut with a short fall edge. Sometimes flaps are put on the hips, and occasionally turn back cuffs 2 inches deep, and flat braided, are put on the sleeves.

The shoulder seams are kept high, and the sideseams brought up fairly high.