Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/84

 S. B. MORNING COATS. Diagram 86.

Measures: 9, 17. 19, 36, 6¾, 20, 32, 8, 12½ 17, 36, 32.

Each set of measures should he taken direct from the customer, if possible.

Failing that, select them from the scale opposite the chest measure on page 49.

Draw line 0, 19.

0 to 3, one-third depth of scye, or to taste.

0 to 9, depth of scye.

0 to 17, natural waist.

0 to 19, fashion waist.

0 to A, full length plus two seams.

Draw lines at right angles to 0, 3, 9, 17, 9.

17 to 1, 1 inch, and draw back seam from 0 to 1.

0 to 2½ one-twelfth breast less ½ inch.

2½ to ¾, ¾ inch, and shape back neck.

3 to 7½ width of back plus ¾ inch.

Draw shoulder seam from ¾ to 7½.

7½ to 2, 2 inches or to taste.

Draw a line from 2 to 17, and hollow sideseam ¾ at depth of scye line.

Make the width at waist one-eighteenth breast, say about 2 inches.

2 to 3½ is 1½ inches, more for prominent blades, less for flat ones.

½ to 20½. half chest plus 2 inches.

20½ to 12½, the across chest measure.

THE NECK POINT.

Find the Neck Point by the Registered Square, laying the angle on depth of scye line and point at 12½.

Mark up to F the length of front shoulder less back neck.

Measure back from ½ to W; apply that to 12½ and measure up to D the over-shoulder measure.

Make the front, F to D, ¼ inch narrower than back, and shape scye as shown.

F to V, one-twelfth breast less ½ inch.

V to I, about the same, or to taste, lowering it for very low rolling fronts.

Sweep from C to E, by B, to get length of sidebody.

9 to 9, one-fourth breast.

Square down and take out A inch on either side at waist, 8½,

Measure up waist to measure plus 2 inches.

Square across from E, and draw waist seam.