Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/78

 1 to 2¾, one-sixth of neck plus ¼ inch.

5 to 7, width of back plus inch.

From 7 square up to 4 one-sixth breast plus 1.

Mark out ¾ and curve back scye.

Shape shoulder from 2¾ to ¾.

From ½ to 20½ is half chest plus 2½.

20½ to 12 is the across chest measure plus ¼.

Place square with angle on point 12 and line on depth of scye line, and mark up to F the front shoulder measure less width of back neck.

Mark up from 12 to D the over-shoulder measure less ½ W of the back.

F to D the same width as the back shoulder.

Shape scye as shown.

F to V, one-sixth of neck, and make F, V parallel to 12, 20½.

V to 1, one-sixth of neck.

Shape gorge from F to I, not making it too hollow.

Add on 1 inch at I and ½ inch at front of breast to 0, at waist, and draw breast line, beyond which, add on ¾ for the hole side, and arrange for a button stand to be sewn on the button side.

1 to 6 is one-sixth breast.

Take out 1 inch suppression between 6 to 7.

Take out V at waist 1½ inches.

Drop front 1 inch, and complete as shown, taking out one or two Vs at neck.

Add on 2¼ for expanding box pleat down the centre of back

The Skirt's Diagram: Hollow waist 1½ inches.

A to 5 is one-eighth breast plus ½ inch.

Square front by 5, B.

B to 6 is one-sixth breast.

Square back by A, 6, adding on 4 inch of round between A and C.

Cut piece for pleat to be stitched on over the centre seam of back skirt, when made up, to be 2¼ wide. This may be either double all the way, or the edges may be merely turned in and stitched down.

A waist belt (Diagram 84) is put on to cover the waist seam. This may be treated in the same way.

The Sleeve (Diagram 85) is cut on exactly the same lines as described on page 76, and the cuff is trimmed in different ways according to rank. This is shown on Diagrams 141 to 145.