Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/76

 LOUNGE FOR CORPULENT FIGURES. Diagrams 70 and 71.

The Lounge for Corpulent Figures is cut on the same lines as already laid down for the normal.

The special provision for the disproportionate size of waist being made one-third at the side and the rest at front, thus: 40 chest, 40 waist. There is 4 inches of disproportion or 2 inches aside.

One-third of this would be about ¾ inch. This would be filled up at the fish, and in this way do away with it in extreme cases.

In very extreme cases, say 12 inches disproportion, let front overlap back at sideseam, thus providing for 2 inches a side at under arm.

The front must also be cut longer at E.

In order to get rid of surplus material below waist, take cut a fish as shown on Diagram 71.

First cut your paper pattern as A, then continue across to sideseam as B, and then, in order to avoid the seam from back of pocket mouth, arrange it as shown at C.

The actual cloth is cut as shown on Diagram 71, thus all objectionable seams are avoided. Draw in at front and bottom, as shown.

UNIVERSAL SERVICE FROCK. Diagram 83.

0 to 1, 1 inch.

0 to 5, half depth of scye plus ½ inch.

0 to 9, depth of scye.

0 to 17, natural waist length.

Draw lines at right angles to 5, 9 and 17.

17 to 1, 1 inch; draw line from 0 to 1.