Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/74

 THE CLERICAL LOUNGE.

The Library Jacket worn by Clergymen only differs from the ordinary jacket by being finished at the neck with a stand collar.

It is important the neck should be made to fit snugly and the collar put on carefully.

The usual opening in front is 24 inches, but this is a feature that allows latitude for individual taste.

Two pockets are usually put on the hips and two in breast pockets. The length is sometimes longer than usual.

NORFOLK JACKETS. Diagram 68.

This garment is cut in various styles, but the special feature in them all is pleats.

The plainer styles have one pleat down the centre of back and one down each front.

There are others which are very popular at present, cut with yoke across the back and front about 7 inches deep, the pleats starting from the bottom of the yokes.

The pleats may either be cut in one with the pattern, or separately, the latter being the simpler course. The amount necessary to form a pleat is 4 inches (see Diagram 69), and the length agrees with the part they are intended to go over.

When cut separately the edges are serged together and sewn on from the back.

When cut in one with the back or forepart, it is better to recut the garment after the pleats are sewn up and pressed.

They are cut rather easy-fitting, with a whole back, without a fish under the arm, and are finished either with a collar and turn or Prussian collar.

The belt is made up same width as the pleats.