Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/72

 THE NEW LOUNGE.

The lounge finished with a low rolling lapel is one of the newest styles.

The only difference to be made in the cutting is to slightly lower the gorge at the front, so that the lapel is adjusted to shape desired.

The collar is the most important feature in making this garment a success; the fall edge must be cut very short and not too much stretched in making up.

Dress Jackets are often made up in this style; the step forming a right angle makes an agreeable change to the pointed lapel also shown on the opposite page.

DRESS JACKETS. Diagram 67.

The special feature of the Dress Jacket is the low rolling lapel, finished in the same style as a dress coat.

There are various styles, as, for instance, the pointed lapel, as in diagram.

The roll collar and the step roll finished without a point.

In every case it is the custom to face the lapels with silk to the edge and to make it roll down to the waist, or lower.

In the case of the roll collar, the silk is taken right round the neck.

The pockets are usually put in with a welt, but sometimes they are put in the sideseam, thus giving a plainer appearance to the front.

They are cut just the same as an ordinary Lounge, with the exception of the front, which is shaped to taste.

They are mostly made with a whole back and being made from thin material, it is only necessary to allow from 1¾ to 2 inches for making up.

The gorge is lowered 1 inch extra at I, and the outline at 20, 20 adjusted, so that a stylish lapel is produced when it is turned back.