Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/70

 Suppress sideseams at waist 1 inch at 6¼, 7¼.

Let front overlap hack at bottom, half difference between chest and seat, say ¾ inch.

Take out 1 inch fish, 6 inches from sideseam and terminate it 4 inches below waist. This may be omitted if a loose fit is desired.

Measure up waist to measure plus 2 to 2½ inches.

Add on 1¼ button stand down front.

Drop front ¾ at bottom, and complete as shown.

F to V is one-twelfth breast less ½ inch.

V to I the same as F to V. This latter may be varied to taste, as the outline of the lapel is fixed by the shape of the front of neck at I and beyond.

Hip pockets 4 inches below waist, size 6 by 2.

Ticket pocket on waist line 3½ by 1¾.

For sleeve see Diagram 89. page 75.

D. B. REEFER. Diagram 66.

The leading points of the Reefer are found in exactly the same way as for the Lounge.

The addition of 2½ inches to the front beyond the breast line, transforming the S. B. Lounge into the D. B. Reefer.

The fronts are usually finished square, and the lapels made pointed.

There is plenty of scope for the display of taste in the outline of lapel.

A V is sometimes taken out at I with advantage, but this is quite optional.

On this diagram I show the whole back, which is simply arranged by making 0, 28 the centre of back, and allowing ¼ inch less for making up.

The amount to allow over the breast, as from 9 to 20¼, is a matter to be decided by judgment rather than by any definite rule.

For close fits and thin material 2 inches will suffice.

For medium weight and a moderate amount of ease 2½ is better.

For very thick materials and easy fits allow 3 inches over half chest and follow the same course at waist.

The front of the flaps should he square to match the front of the Reefer.

For Heavy Reefers such as worn by navvies, working men, etc., allow more for making up, omit the fish and add at least 3 or 3½ beyond breast line for lapel.