Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/68



THE LOUNGE. Diagram 65.

Measures: 9, 17, 28, 6¾, 20, 32, 8, 12, 17, 36, 32.

SYSTEM.

Draw line 0 to 28½.

0 to 3, one-third depth of scye.

0 to 9, depth of scye, as taken on customer.

0 to 17, natural waist length.

0 to 28½, full length desired, plus 2 seams.

0 to 2½, one-twelfth of breast less ½ inch.

Cme up ¾ inch and shape back neck.

3 to 7½, width of back plus three seams.

Draw line from ¾ to 7½, and hollow a little between W and neck point, as shown.

Hollow back seam ¼ inch at 17, and spring out to 28½.

Make back one-sixth breast, from 17 to 6¼.

Square down from this point and continue upwards into scye as shown, finding point 7 by squaring up from depth of scye line to most backward part of scye.

Shape back scye and back is complete.

THE FOREPART.

From 9 to 20½ is half breast plus from 2 to 2½ inches.

20½ to 12½ the across chest measure, as taken on customer.

Use the Registered Square to find neck point F, as shown, placing it down with the corner 12½, and the angle line on 12½, 20½ and marking up to F the front shoulder measure, as taken on customer less back neck.

Or sweep from 12½ by this quantity, and again from 20½, 1 inch more, and so find neck point.

Measure up from 12½ to D, the over shoulder measure less 9, W of back.

Find width of shoulder forepart by a quarter less than back.

Shape scye making it as hollow as possible, just above 12½, and keeping it close up at back.