Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/67

 TECHNICAL TERMS.

Early in the course of his studies the student will meet with certain technical terms which it is well he should understand, or he may be led astray. I. therefore, otter a few comments on the three most important.

BALANCE is the relative length of two sides, thus—a long front balance refers to a coat cut with the front shoulder longer than proportionate, for instance, if a model pattern is taken and the forepart cut across from front edge to scye front, and opened out, say, 1 inch (the (quantity is of no importance), all across, the result would be a long front shoulder. The balance of a sleeve refers to the relative lengths of hind and forearm seams, for instance, if a proportionate sleeve is taken and cut across from hind arm to top of fore arm, and a wedge inserted to nothing at front the result would l>e a sleeve with a long back balance, or, as it is more generally known, a forward hanging sleeve.

If the pitch of the hind arm is lowered and the fore arm raised, this produces a long back balance to the sleeve.

STRAIGHTNESS AND CROOKEDNESS are terms used in tailoring to signify certain alterations (usually) at the neck point, thus—when the neck point is advanced it is referred to as "straightening the coat, and when it is receded, it is referred to as "crookening" the coat.

There are certain alterations which can be made at other parts which nullify these, so that the subject is a complex one. Thus, to advance the neck point, and then to let out the bottom of the sideseam, and take it in at bottom of forepart, is to counteract at one part the alteration that is made at the other, the only real change made being a shortening of forepart slightly at bottom. The cutting of the forepart pattern across the chest, and inserting a wedge to nothing at the scye produces what is known as a crooked forepart. This style of cut requires very careful working up, and is only suitable for the best trades. By taking a wedge out, a straight cut is produced, and this style is very suitable for garments to be made up by machine.

WAIST SUPPRESSION

refers to the amounts taken out between back and sidebody, sidebody and forepart, fishes out of the forepart, etc. The guiding principle in this respect is "suppression at one part, produces fulness at another." So that if the shoulder blades are prominent, the waist must be suppressed more between back and sidebody and so on.