Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/65

 Short people are often square in the shoulders.

Tall people are often sloping in the shoulders.

Deformed people are often very sensitive on the subject of their malformation; the cutter should, therefore, avoid reference to it.

Ladies are flat at the back, prominent at the chest, small at the neck, shoulders and waist, large at the hips, short in the limbs, and erect.

Children and youths are growing, so that too close a fit is undesirable.

When an old garment has been sent for the measures, put it on a dummy or figure and stuff it out till it is filled, and then take the measure in the usual manner.

A PRACTICAL INVENTION.

In the course of a long experience I have found that the most difficult part of my system for the student to master has been the location of the neck point, which has been previously done by the aid of two sweeps or segments. These are now done away with, a square having been devised whereby the location of the neck point, is found with absolute certainty and remarkable ease. There are certain angles which are constantly used for drafting—as, for instance, right angle —another of these is the angle between front of scye and neck point, which is also identical with that used to obtain the angle of the seat of the trousers, etc. This angle has been embodied in a square of very useful size and shape, embodying all the best features of what a tailor's square should be, together with this angle, which enables the possessor to draft the systems in this work with the greatest ease.