Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/64

 LETTER ORDERS.

When cutting from the measures taken by others, or from letter orders, a guide is often desired as to relative proportions.

In these eases the tables of measurements on page 49 will prove of service. They have been carefully compiled in harmony with the dictates of long observation and experience, and are far before any other Breast Measure Method.

THE VINCENT TAPE.

The leading features of the Scale given on preceding page have been embodied in a Tape which in addition to being an inch tape has the following quantities marked on it for all sizes from 24 to 50 breast. The shoulder slope, depth of scye, width of back, width of back neck, the front shoulder and the over-shoulder.

The cutter possessing one of these tapes is able to draft out any size pattern by simply using the various quantities as marked for the breast measure he is cutting for.

The price of this tape is 1/-; post free 1/1.

This tape is also extremely useful in helping the measurer to detect when his customer is out of proportion and to make such observations at the time of measuring as will enable him to produce a successful fit for all sorts and shapes of men.

This is more fully described in Part Y.

PECULIARITIES OF FORM.

It is always well to bear in mind the child is short in limb, corpulent in figure, and large in shoulder.

The youth is long of limb, small in chest and has a tendency to stoop.

The man of mature age is often corpulent, erect, square in the shoulders, small in the shoulders, and short limbed.

Stooping figures are prominent in the blade, flat on the seat, and flat in the chest. They are also often large in the shoulders, and their arms hang forward.

Erect figures are flat in the back, well developed at the chest, prominent at the seat, and backward hanging at the arms.