Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/62

 The best, of the shoulder measures is taken, from the back seam, about 5 or 6 inches down from the nape, and goes over the front shoulder, around the front scye, and returns to the same point again.

In proportionate figures this is equal to three-quarters of the breast and is an excellent measure to detect variation in the size of shoulder and scye.

Two-thirds of this measure is used as a working scale instead of the half-breast.

DIRECT MEASURES.

Direct Measures are short measures taken from point to point of the body, and are, in my opinion, the best guide to successful cutting.

There are four of these measures in particular that we recommend:—

1. The depth of scye. 2. The front shoulder. 3. The over-shoulder: and 4. The across chest.

They are taken as follows:—

The level of the bottom of the arm-hole is found on the centre of back and a pin or chalk mark is put in.

The simplest method, is to throw the tape over the shoulders saddle fashion, bring the ends back under the arms, and where they meet in the centre of back, will, with a little care, indicate the level of scye.

The most accurate way is to use a square, as shown on Figure 3 page 47. Put it close up to the bottom of arm-pit, and mark at back and front of scye 13 and 11, carefully noting that the long arm from 11 to 14 is quite upright. The square is then used as a guide to get the level of scye depth at centre of back 2, where another mark is made, and the depth of scye measure is taken from nape of neck to this point, 1 to 2. The front shoulder is taken from nape of neck to front of scye level, 1 to 11. The over-shoulder is taken from depth of scye mark, on the back seam over the shoulder to level of scye in the front, taken from front of scye on the left side, 10, to front of scye on the right side, 9, Figure 2, the half measure being recorded.

Other measures may be taken as occasion arises; for instance, The.seat measure is useful when cutting coats, jackets, etc.

The length from nape to prominence of figure, and on to hollow of waist in front, is often helpful when cutting ladies' garments.

The width of sleeve may also be taken with advantage if the customer expresses any special desire as to size.

The aim of measuring must be to obtain the size of the body, the shape of the body, and the wishes or tastes of the customers.

Care in taking the order is always time well spent.