Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/60

 THE MEASURES. The measures should he taken carefully, but expeditiously. Have a method and adhere to it.

The simplest measures are taken as follows:—

COAT. Figure 1.

1. Nape to waist, 1 to 3, Figure 1. 2. Nape to length of coat, 1 to 4. 3. Width across back, 5 to 6. 4. Centre of back to elbow, 5 to 7. 5. Centre of back to wrist with arm bent, 5 to 8. 6. Chest close up under the arms and taken straight round the body. 7. Waist about 2 inches above hip bone and taken straight round the body.

VEST. Figure 4. 1. Nape to opening, 1 to 3, Figure 4. 2. Full length 1 to 4. 3. Chest. 4. Waist. If the two latter have been taken for the coat, there is no need to take them again for the Vest.

TROUSERS. Figure 5. 1. Side. A to B. 2. _ Leg, C to 1). 3 Waist, round E, F. 4. Seat, round G, H. 5. Knee, round I. 6. Bottom, round B.

BREECHES. 1. Side, full length. 2. Leg to Knee. 3. Leg to small. 4. Leg to calf. 5. Leg to full length desired. 6. Waist. 7. Seat. S. Tight Knee. 9. Tight small. 10. Tight calf. 11. Tight bottom.

GAITERS. 1. Length. 2. Size of calf. 3. Size of bottom.

OVERCOATS.

Same as under coats, provision being made, when cutting, for their going over the under garments.

LADIES' JACKETS, BODICES AND ULSTERS. Same as Men's Coats.

LADIES' SKIRTS, TRAINS, TROUSERS, ETC. 1. Side length. 2. Waist. 3. Seat. For trousers and breeches these may he supplemented by the length from waist to seat of chair in which customer sits.

These are the simplest methods of measuring, and it will he very necessary to note any deviation from proportion, such as erect, stooping, square or sloping shoulders, etc., etc., us these measures give very little indication in this direction.

ADMEASURES Are simply extra measures taken with a view of detecting peculiarities of form. They are of two kinds: 1. Long, and known as shoulder measures; and 2. Short, and described as direct measures.