Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/52

 MESS VESTS. Diagram 49.

Military Mess Vests are cut in the same style as ordinary vests.

They are finished in various styles at front.

Sometimes they are cut without a button stand, being laced down the front and fastened with hooks and eyes.

The three leading styles are:—

1. Fastening up to the throat as per solid line.

2. Opening low as per dot and dash line.

3. The hollow opening front, as per dot and cross line.

This latter is the more general style.

For the low opening variety, the stand of the collar must be added as for the Dress and the No Collar Vests.

Illustrations of the principal kinds of Mess Vests are given on Diagrams 51 to 58.

Care must be taken to avoid getting them too long or they will show below the Mess Jackets.

The usual length is 1 inch below waist at side seam and 3½ to 4 inches below waist line at front.

CORPULENT VESTS. Diagram 50. The system, as laid down, works out admirably for disproportion, but in addition it is advisable to take out a horizontal V from the pocket mouth as illustrated.

In making up take special care to draw in the front at 131 and bottom at Z, as per wavy marks.

On this diagram is illustrated the Roll Collar; the collar being cut to form a complete curve without step.