Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/47

 SLEEVE VEST. Diagram 45.

This is one of the most difficult garments to cut to fit satisfactorily.

The problem to solve is how to provide ease and make provision for the movement of the arms.

The principal things to avoid are a too deep scye and a too hollow underside sleeve.

It is well not to make it too small at the waist, or to give too much round to the sleeve head.

The underside sleeve should not have any hollowing.

For coachmen they are often made from striped Valencia, the stripes running vertically.

For working men the backs are often cut longer than fore-parts.

THE BACK SYSTEM. (See page 38.)

0, 9, depth of scye.

0, 17, natural waist.

17 to 1, 1 inch.

Draw line from 0 to 1.

Hollow back at waist about ¾, and shape back seam from 0 to 1¾.

Make ½ a pivot, and sweep from 0 to 6. 0 to 2 ½, one-twelfth breast less ½ inch.

Come up ¾ from 2 A, and shape back neck, ¾ to 6, one-sixth breast.

Or the width of back may be made to measure plus two seams.

One-fifth breast may be used as a guide for width of back at 7.

½ to 10¼, one-fourth breast plus ¾.

1¾ to 10½, one-fourth waist plus ¾.

Complete back when the length of side can be obtained from forepart.