Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/39

 VESTS.

Diagrams 37 to 40.

Measures necessary: Chest. waist, opening, and full length.

Chest taken round the body close up to the arm-pits.

Waist round body just above hip bones in hollow of waist.

Opening from 1 centre of back neck to 3, Figure 4.

Full length from 1, 2 to 4.

It is also advantageous to obtain depth of scye, natural waist, across chest, front shoulder and over shoulder.

A fully illustrated description of how to take these direct measurements is given in Part II., but briefly put they are taken as follows:—

Depth of scye from nape of neck to level of bottom of scye on back seam.

Across chest, half width from front of left scye to front of right scye.

Front shoulder, from nape of neck to bottom of scye in front.

Over shoulder, from mark on back at depth of scye over the shoulder to bottom of front of scye.

The depth of scye usually equals one-sixth of breast plus 3 inches.

The across chest, one-fourth of breast less 1 inch.

The front shoulder, one-fourth breast plus 3½ inches.

The over shoulder, one-third breast plus 5 inches.

A still better plan is to select them from scale given in Part II., which has been compiled from the dictates of long experience.

Sample measures: 36. 32,12, 24½.

Extra measures: 9,17, 8,12,17.