Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/34

 MOUNTED INFANTRY BREECHES. Style: Full in seat and thigh, baggy at side of knee.

Knee fulled on to continuations. Strapping on inside of leg.

Measures: 39, 15, 27, 30, 30. 14, 13, 14, 10.

The outline of these is somewhat peculiar, so without detailing the finding of the usual points which are the same as previously described, we will point out the leg seam is cut to fit closely, but the sides are made very baggy.

The legs are opened 1 inch and extra 1½ is given to the thighs and topsides from 12 outwards.

3 inches of extra length is given at side at G.

The knee is cut wide enough to full on to continuations.

Seams are cut oft from leg seam, knee and continuations under the strapping.

The outline of strapping is shown on Diagram 16, and is quite distinct in shape and style from the strapping used for the Cavalry.

UNDERSIDES. The seat angle is found by coming up from 9 to 7, one-sixth seat plus 1 inch. Or by Registered Square, dropping angle line at B 1 inch (see page 6).

The waist is made up to measure and 1 inch.

The seat is made up to measure and 3½ inches.

THE CONTINUATIONS. Diagram 15. These are cut by making 0, 12 the centre line and dividing the widths equally on either side, but cutting the topsides 1 inch narrower than undersides, and allowing an additional inch on for the button stand.

WHOLE FALLS. Diagrams 28 and 30. Top sides cut 2 inches shorter at top, as shown by 1, 2, 3, 4 (Diagram 30).

Be careful to avoid a dip at 2. Bearer (Diagram 28), 1 to 2, about 5 inches; 3 to 4, 6½ or 7 inches.

3, 4 harmonises with top of sideseam.

Provision is made for 1 inch overlap at front.

BILSTON BEARERS. Diagram 36. These are very similar to hole Falls, but the bearer is cut deeper at 3, 4, and the lining felled over them from 3 to 4, and from 3 to 4, and the bearer secured to the Fall facing so that the only opening is from 3 to 2.