Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/28

 DRESS BREECHES. Diagram 8.

These are made moderately close fitting at fork and thighs, similar to ordinary trousers.

Measures: 30½, 15, 17, 18½, 30, 30,14, 13, 14.

These are worn by livery servants for full dress, by officials of various kinds, and for unofficial court dress.

They only reach to just below the small of leg.

They are usually finished with a garter and buckle.

0 to 12, body rise.

12 to 6, one-sixth, seat.

12 to 9, one-fourth seat.

12 to 12¼, one-third seat plus ¼ inch.

Square up to B and down to 19.

A to 2, one-fourth waist plus 2 seams.

6 to 15, leg length to knee.

6 to 17, leg length to small, and on to 19, full length, allowing about ½ inch in each case for fulling on.

If to be finished with a garter, cut that much shorter.

15 to 3½, 17 to 3, and 19 to 3 one-fourth knee, small, etc.

15 to 27½, 17 to 2½, and 19 to 2½, ½ inch less than on leg seam.

UNDERSIDES.

9 to 8, one-fourth seat less 1 inch. Or by Registered Square, placing angle line on fork line.

9 to 13¼ one-eighth seat.

3½ to 4½ and 3 to 4, 1 inch for seams.

Make up waist to measure, plus 2½.

Allow 2 inches over seat.

Shape outline at F to taste.

They are made of white buckskin, for state officials; black velvet for unofficials; and plush for livery servants.

In the latter case the pile runs down on topsides and up on undersides.

SPATS. Diagram 10.

This is an excellent reduced model.

Reproduce to figures and outlines given.

They consist of three parts; one, total size as outlined by 0, 1, 5½, 5½

One piece as outlined by 0, 3, 1, A A.

And the third piece as outlined by B, 5½, ½, 5½.

Straps as shown are put on to go under foot.

Enlarge or reduce at back for different sizes; this will suit an 8 boot. They are usually lined through.