Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/268

 TABLE OF ALIQUOT PARTS. Some cutters find it difficult to calculate aliquot parts.

If there are any such amongst my leaders, the table on the opposite page will be invaluable to them.

On it are given the ⅛, $1/undefined$, $1/undefined$, ¼, ⅓, ⅔ and ¾ of all the half seat or breast measures from 12 to 24.

To use this, select the row having the size of seat or breast measure you are cutting for, say, the 30-breast man, which would be 18 on the half; say you desire the one-fifth of this you take the horizontal row, having 18 as the first figures, and the perpendicular row, having one-fifth at the top, and the result is 3⅝.

Take another illustration:—

We want ⅔ of 22½. We select the horizontal row, having 22½ as the first figures, and the vertical row having ⅔ at the top, and where these meet the result—equal 15—will be found, and so on for any quantity or division.

VINCENTS PRACTICAL GUIDE TAPE. It sometimes happens that those who use my system have to cut from measures taken by others, so, with a view of helping such, I have prepared a scale of measures giving the various quantities usually found correct for the different sizes of chest, so that this system may be used as a breast measure method without producing any of the difficulties which are the constant lot of the breast measure cutter.

This scale contains the following measures; depth of scye, front shoulder, and such other measures as are required for that particular measure. This will be found in Part II. It may, however, be found that when the scale is wanted, it is left at home, so I have arranged the whole thing on an inch tape, a reduced illustration of which is shown on the opposite page. On it are clearly marked for all sizes from 24 to 50 chest the following quantities, width of back, across chest, width of back neck, front shoulder, shoulder slope, scye depth, and over-shoulder. This tape is arranged with the figures running on the one side horizontally, and on the other vertically, so that the lengths and widths can be taken with the utmost possible ease. By the aid of this tape, any cutter of average intelligence can produce a set of patterns which will run harmoniously throughout the whole set. It is a decided advance on any method of grading or graduation which is at present before the trade. This tape, however, has another use, namely, that the cutter will be able to detect if his customer varies in any respect from the average proportions, and by finding if any particular measure is larger or smaller than usual for this chest measure, he will be able to more carefully note the attitude and build of his customer, and so be better qualified to cut him a successful pattern. The price of it is 1/-, post free 1/1.