Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/266

 GRADUATED TAPES.

Any of the diagrams in this work may be reproduced to any size by graduated tapes, if so desired.

Graduated Tapes have the divisions which in the ordinary tape are 1 inch long—of varying lengths. These divisions are known as units or "ones," by which is meant they bear the same proportion to the size marked on the tape as the 1 inch does to the 18 tape, viz., one-eighteenth, so that a unit of a 13½ tape would be ¾ inch. A unit of a 22½ tape, 1¼ inches, and so on.

When using tapes for very large or very small sizes, select a tape rather smaller than is indicated by the measure for the large sizes, and rather larger for the small sizes.

If a tape is used agreeing with the half chest measure for coats and vests, and the half seat measure for trousers and breeches, it will work successfully for sizes from 32 to 40.

Above 40, deduct ¼ inch for every inch, thus:—use a 43 tape —that is, a 21½ tape—for a 44 chest; a 23 tape for a 48 chest, and so on.

For small sizes, add ¼ inch for every inch below 32, thus:—for 28 breast, use a 13½ tape: for a 24 breast, use a 13 tape, and so on.

This will overcome the peculiarities of the development of the shoulders for large and small sizes, and at the same time make up the total size of the garment from back seam to front edge, and about 3½ inches more than the half chest.

If the model to be reproduced is not drafted to the 36 size, then the graduated tape must be selected as much larger or smaller than the 36 tape is larger or smaller than the breast of the model,—thus, a model drawn out to fit a 40 inch breast, and desired to be reproduced to fit a 34, the tape selected should be the 15, that bearing the same relation to the 34 that the 18 tape does to the 40 chest.

For the reproduction of Robes and Gowns, and such garments as consist principally of style, the graduated tape is the best method of reproduction, when other sizes are desired

On the opposite page is given a photo reduction of a complete set of tapes from 11 to 25.

The figures are very small but it will illustrate the varying size of the units.

In addition to these there are a large number of special makes each of which have their peculiarity.