Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/265

 Inability to Stoop: —

Take in seat seam, and let out side seam (as Diagram 412).

Horseshoe Folds at Back of Thigh:—

Full on topside from fork to knee at both side and leg seams, and full oil under side opposite calf at both leg and sideseams. (as Diagram 413).

Creases Below Seat:—

Let out seat seam, and take in sideseam, or reduce waist by a fish, making the reverse alteration to that done in Diagram 412.

Creases from the Fork to Knee:—

Let out fork (as Diagram 407).

Loose Material in Lap:—

Take in top sides at fork, the same as if dress was being taken out (see Diagram 418), let out underside at seat, making the same alteration as would result from the insertion of a horizontal wedge across underside at seat, and the taking out of horizontal wedge across the top side from fall seam to nothing at side (see Diagram 414).

Rising from the Foot when Sitting:—

Give more room and more angle to seat (as Diagram 415).

Standing Away at Heel:—

Full on under sides over calf, and draw in heel with stay tape, if the former alteration is not sufficient.

Side seam Twisting to Front of Boot:—

Rip side and leg seams; pass the top side up on the under side at sideseam and down at the leg seam (see balance marks on Diagram 417).

This alteration generally arises from the driving of the sewing machine; the basting marks not having been kept properly together.

Fulness at Fork:—

Reduce fork (as Diagram 418) and let out at sideseam, if necessary, or let out leg seam from nothing at fork, and take in at sideseam the same amount as is let out at leg seam.

Trousers Cutting Between Legs:—

Let out at fork and, if necessary, shorten legs. Suggest to the wearer the lengthening of his braces.

These are the most common defects in coats, vests, and trousers. The subject is an almost endless one, as alterations arise from so many causes, and result in such curious combinations, so that the cutter will always have to rely more or less on his own common sense. The above cases will supply some guiding principles, which I trust will prove helpful.