Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/264

 DEFECTS IN SKIRTS.

Frock Coat Skirt gaping at Bottom:—

Shorten at waist seam at front (as Diagram 396); this may involve a re adjustment of the length of the skirt at the back.

Frock Coat Skirt Overlapping:—

Reduce at front edge (as Diagram 399).

Crease Over Hips:—

Put on more fulness and provide more hip room (as Diagram 394).

Pleats Gaping at Bottom of Back:—

Let out pleats at bottom of skirt (as Diagram 398), or if it is caused by the front shoulder being too short, lengthen at shoulder (as Diagram 406).

Pleats Overlapping:—

Take in at pleats, or if it is caused by too long front shoulder, shorten (as Diagram 387).

Tight on Top and Loose on Bottom Button:—

Crooken shoulder (as Diagram 400) or lengthen collar.

Loose on top and tight on bottom button.

Straighten shoulder (as Diagram 380) and shorten collar.

VESTS.

Loose Round the Neck.—Take in at neck point (as Diagram 401).

Bottom of Forepart Standing Away from Figure:—

Lengthen forepart at shoulder (as Diagram 406).

Horizontal Crease Round Waist:—

Let out at bottom of sideseam, so as to increase the size round the bottom (as Diagram 402).

Loose at Bottom of Forepart in Corpulent Figures: —

Take horizontal V out of pocket mouth (as Diagram 404), and put facing on short round the bottom.

Too Short:—

Lengthen by back; add on length required at shoulder and lower scye, and back same quantity and lengthen it at bottom (as Diagram 405), or it may be done by putting a yoke across the back, lengthening the yoke the same amount as is added to the shoulder.

Drag on Sleeve in Vest when Arm is Raised:—

Bring vest close up to scye by shortening back and forepart at shoulder (as Diagram 408): give plenty of round at top of under side sleeve (as Diagram 409).

TROUSERS.

Short in Body.—Lower fork and lengthen legs at bottom (as Diagram 410).

Tight in Seat:—

Let out seat seam (as Diagram 411), and if necessary let out at fork.