Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/260

 (6) Too short a collar. The only remedy for this is to lengthen it.

Special care to avoid this defect should be taken by putting a little wadding in at C, and pressing fulness all in the direction of A*.

Fulness at Front of Scye (Diagram 348):—

Alter as per dotted line, reducing the length of neck by a V, if necessary.

Creases in Front of Shoulder:—

Lengthen at B (Diagram 349), advancing it at B, and taking off at scye end.

This may also arise from badly put in facings.

Creases at Top of Forearm of Sleeve:—

Lower forearm as per dotted line A, Diagram 350.

Or it may be rectified by raising the forearm pitch and lowering it at back, thus producing a more forward hanging sleeve.

Loose material at top of hind arm is remedied by the reverse alteration to Diagram 350.

The following is a brief statement of Defects and Remedies:—

COATS. NECK AND COLLAR.

Too High in the Neck:—

Lower or reduce stand of collar, as in Diagram 362.

Too Low in the Neck:—

Pass collar up on the inlay, or sink scye and take in at shoulder points, or make stand of collar deeper; in other words reverse Diagram 362.

Collar Standing Away Behind:—

Shorten collar or draw in crease edge. If front shoulder is too long, shorten and readjust collar, as in Diagram 363.,

Collar loose at side, more often the right side.

Shorten collar or draw in with bridle, or straighten shoulder and take in shoulder at neck, and keep collar close, as in Diagram 364.

Collar Riding Tip:—

Let out inlay at shoulder end, or take in at neck point and shorten top of back.

Collar End Turning Up:—

Reduce length and width of the end of the under collar, and full on outside collar, as Diagram 365.

Fall of Collar Riding up above Collar Seam:—

Lengthen outer or fall edge of collar; this can generally be done by stretching, as suggested by Diagram 369.

Short Collar:—

Lengthen collar as Diagram 367, or reduce length of gorge, which may sometimes be done by taking out a V in front of the crease row, see Diagram 368.