Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/26

 GENTLEMENS' BREECHES AND PANTALOONS. Diagrams 6.

Measures: 39, 15, 17, 20, 27, 60, 36, 14, 13, 14, 10.

Style now fashionable close fitting at leg seam, very full at seat and thigh.

Finished at fronts either with fly or split fall.

0 to 1, side length plus 1 inch.

1 to 12, leg length plus 1 inch.

12 to 6, one-sixth seat.

12 to 9, one-fourth.

12 to 12¼, one-third seat plus ¼ inch.

Lower fronts at B 1½ inches.

A to 2, one-fourth waist plus ½.

Square down from 6 to 12, 12 inches.

12 to 1½, 1½ inches.

Draw centre line from 6 to 28.

6 to 16, 18; 21 and 28 leg length to knee; small calf and bottom; adding 1 inch in each case.

16 to 3½, 18 to 3, 21 to 3½, and 28 to 2½, one-fourth size of leg at those parts.

Measure towards side from centre line, from 1 to 2 inches, as buttons are now worn very forward at knee (see A).

Well round sideseams, making 12 to 1½ about 1½ inches.

This will serve as a guide for the round of sideseam.

UNDERSIDES.

9 to 7, one-sixth seat plus 1. Or by Registered Square, dropping angle line at B, 1 inch.

9 to 13½, one-eighth seat.

3½ to 4½, 3 to 4, and 3½ to 4½, 1 inch.

Draft leg seam as shown.

Continue down to K in harmony with the upper part.

Make leg 1 inch shorter than topsides. Make body 1 inch longer than topsides.

Allow 2½ over waist and reduce by fish.

Allow 3½ or more over seat.

Make up size of knee, calf, etc., to ensure at F, G, H, allowing 1 inch for seams; reduce size of bottom by a V mark at J, I.

Clear loose material from under knee by a fish from 4½ to F

Complete as shown.

B shows strapping shaped ready to put on.