Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/256

 Do not. put too much skirt fulness over the hips.

Keep a Hat sleeve head and a low collar stand.

High and Low Shoulders, Diagram 359:—

In practice, the alteration for short necks (Diagram 356) answers for square shoulders.

As an alternative alteration, I show how to adapt the scye, as per dot and dash line 1, 1. 1.

Sloping shoulders are practically the same as long neck.

The alteration is shown by the dotted lines 3, 3, 3 (Diagram 359).

Hump in Centre of Back*, Diagram 360:—

Insert wedge at A to the amount desired.

Build up with wadding at B, with the object of reducing the apparent size of hump as much as possible.

Hump at Side of Back*, Diagram 361:—

Insert wedge at D to nothing at C.

Draw in as much as possible at D.

Build up with wadding at D.

In cutting for deformities drape rather than fit.

PRINCIPLES OF ALTERATIONS.

The following diagrams illustrate the principles governing alterations:—

Vertical or upright folds (Diagram 328) are the results of excessive width.

Horizontal folds (Diagram 329) are caused by an excessive length.

Creases (Diagram 330) are caused by shortness between the extreme points of crease—thus, diagonal creases from A to B show a shortness from A to B.

Fulness at B (Diagram 331) is caused by contraction or tightness at A, thus—fulness at any part generally arises from tightness elsewhere.

These will suggest a remedy for most defects.

In producing certain effects it is well to know that straight edges as 1, 2 and 3, 4 (Diagram 332) are equal.

A hollow edge at 7, 8 (Diagram 333) is relatively short to the other parts and will throw fulness on the outer edge as at 5, 6.

On the other hand, a round edge as 11, 12 of Diagram 334 is long in comparison to other parts, and will result in shortness at outer edge 9, 10.

When taking a seam from a hollow edge (Diagram 305) it is lengthened but when taking a seam from a round (Diagram 336) it is shortened.