Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/254

 CUTTING BY MODEL PATTERNS.

Stooping Figure, Diagram 351:—

Increase back length A, B, C.

Wider back C, D. Increase suppression at D, F.

Advance scye at G.

Take wedge out of fronts to nothing at front of scye, and thus alter shoulder as G, H, I, J.

Lower top of forearm of sleeve K to L. Diagram 352:—

Reduce spring over scat and give short crease edge to collar.

Erect Figure, Diagrams 353 and 354:—

Shorten back A, B, C.

Reduce width of back at C, D.

Reduce round over sidebody at E.

Lengthen shoulder at H, I. and give more width and round to the front at K.

Correct length of gorge at J.

Lower hind arm of sleeve, M to N, Diagram 354.

Long Necks:—Alter as 1, 2, 3 and 6, 7, 9, Diagram 356.

Short Necks:—Alter as 4, 5, 3 and 6, 8, 9, Diagram 356.

Draw line 2, 5, parallel with back, and line 7, 8 from front of scye through neck point.

Long and Short Bodies, Diagram 357, shows how to provide for these, the dot and dash line indicating the alteration for short bodies and the dash line the alteration for long bodies.

It often happens that short-bodied people are square in the shoulders.

Careful observation should be made of this, and, if necessary, provision made accordingly.

LARGE AND SMALL WAISTS. Diagram 358.

Add on ⅓ of the disproportion at ]), and the same quantity to the bottom of forepart at E.

Add on ⅔ at the front, less the small variation made at B, which should only be a trifle, say ¼, for 4 inches disproportion, and ½ inch for 8 inches.

Thus, for a figure 6 inches disproportion, add ⅜ at B.

1 inch at D, 1 inch at bottom of forepart.

1⅝ at E, as per dot and dash line.

The dotted line shows the alteration for small waists.

Corpulent Figures are often erect, hence the ? marks at ton of back.

It is often necessary to shorten back balance.

In making up either, take out V at E or draw in the fronts.