Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/253

 Another method of cutting, which is often followed, is to arrange with a man to take the entire management of the shop on the premises, and pay him so much for each garment and leave the payment of the assistants to him. This plan is very much opposed by the Men's Societies, as it is looked upon by them as encouraging Middlemen and leaving no check upon sweating. They contend rightly that all employees should be engaged direct by the employer. Another plan is to give the work out to a man who arranges his own workshops and is paid by the garment.

TRYING ON.

It is an advantage to try on, as it enables the cutter to correct errors of fit, style, and manipulation at the easiest stage.

The best method of preparing a coat is that known as the forward baste.

In this method the seams are all sewn and pressed open, with the exception of back, shoulder and scye seams.

The manipulation is put in, the padding inserted, the linings basted over, both sleeves basted in, and the collar basted on.

See that the garment is on properly.

Now note the general hang or balance.

If it hangs away behind it is too long in the front.

If it drags up at front and stands away at bottom of forepart, it is too short in front shoulder.

Now pinch the edges together, and pin in position.

Mark the meeting edge to edge line with chalk.

Ask customer if it is comfortable; this will give him an opportunity to express his opinions.

Now examine the various parts in the following order:—

Top of back. Back scye. Back waist. Back pleats. Sides and hips.

Sleeves, noting balance, length, width.

Front collar, and height of opening. Shoulders. Front of scye.

Breast, waist, and bottom of forepart.

Remember a coat is always easier in the scye when finished; the scye seams being pressed hack.

Mark all alterations needed.

Endeavour to grasp customer's wishes.

Carefully criticise four own work, so that the result may be the best possible.

Always aim at perfection ill fit, style and finish.