Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/250

 The shoulders of canvas should have Vs inserted at gorge, shoulder and scye.

The edge is best steadied with a narrow strip of linen.

A bridle of linen should be put on the crease row.

The back scye should be slightly drawn in with a drawing thread, and the under sleeve kept tight at that part.

The fulness of the sleeve head should begin 1 inch in front of shoulder seam, and be distributed down to within 1 inch of fore-arm pitch.

The front edge should be drawn in about 1 inch ; the principal portion of this being opposite the breast.

The collar should be put on slightly tight across the back, long in the hollow of gorge, and slightly tight in front of break.

The collar and lapel should only he pressed from the outside, as the underpart always shrinks the most.

The linings should be put in long over the waist and in the sleeves.

Wide across the back and shoulders, but rather narrow at breast.

Bottom of back skirt should be made to curl inwards by putting in a corner piece of canvas tight at that part.

PRICES PAID FOR MAKING UP.

The following brief statement of the prices paid in different parts of the Kingdom will be of service as indicating the general run of prices. In the first column we have the average of Provincial Logs, which has been compiled from some forty different Logs, obtained from different parts of the country. This is quoted at, so many hours, ,the rate per hour varying between 3d. and 7d. with an average of rather less than 5d.

Thr second column is the London Uniform Time Log, and here again the price is quoted in hours; the rate per hour varying from 6d. to 7d. in the different classes of trade.

Both these Logs are for hand work and provide for reductions for machine work.