Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/246

 CUTTING FROM THE CLOTH.

After marking out the lay, count up your pieces before cutting.

See that all parts are there.

Don't forget the underside sleeve.

Plan for your outside collar to be on the crease.

See that facings, flaps, etc., can he taken out the right way of pattern and pile.

If there is a pile or face, see that all parts run the right way.

Endeavour to get. all the facings in one piece.

Avoid all undue twisting.

Inlays do not help the fit, but they are useful in case alteration is necessary.

The following should be left in all cases:—

Coats.—Turn up at bottom of sleeves J, L, about 1½ inches.

1 inch at back of skirts, 1 on either side of back skirts, B and C.

Trousers.—Turn up at bottom of legs about 1¼ inches, S and R.

We also advise the following:—

Coats.—Top of hack neck, ½ inch A.

Top and bottom of sidebody, ½ inch D and T.

Forepart sideseam, 1 inch H.

Shoulder, ¾ inch E.

Neck and scye, ½ inch G, F.

Hind of top side sleeve, ¾ inch K.

Cuff of underside sleeve, 1 inch M.

Vests.—Sideseam of back. 1 inch N.

Trousers.—Sideseam, 1 inch Q.

Seat seam, 1 inch O.

Top of leg-seam to knee, ½ inch P.

For garments that fasten up to the neck leave ¾ inch across bottom of forepart, instead of at shoulder.

CUTTING FROM DIFFERENT MATERIALS.

For very thin materials and those that are very elastic, allow ½ inch less than for medium weights.

For heavy Meltons, Velveteens, etc., allow 1 inch a side more than usual.

For Woollen linings allow an extra inch.

For fur linings, 2 inches a side extra.

Velvet and Velveteens generally cut with the pile running up, which rule applies to the shorter hair furs.

Fur is cut on the flesh side with a knife.