Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/245

 TO REDUCE OR ENLARGE. Diagram 327.

If it is desired to alter a pattern to a size larger or smaller, vary it one-fifth at the back, two fifths under the arm, and two-fifths at the front. Adjust size of shoulders at scye.

The increase at the waist is made ⅓ at side and ⅔ at front.

An addition of ⅓ is also made at bottom.

TRIMMINGS.

The following list of Trimmings will prove useful:—

Trimmings should be selected with due regard to colour, quality and weight.

Coats.—Canvas, about ¾ yards; pocket silesia, about ½ to ¾ yards; linen about i yard; sleeve lining, about ⅛ yard; Italian according to length and facings. Also, stay tape or extra linen, silk, twist, buttons, shoulder paddings, hair cloth, wadding and hanger.

If bound, about 5 yards for a frock coat, and 6 yards for a morning coat.

If silk facings ⅜ for small, or ⅝for full facings.

Vests.—Interlining about ½ yard; lining, about ¾ yard; silesia, about ⅛ yard; linen, 2 or 3 inches. Also, twist, silk, buttons and buckle.

If vest is bound, allow 3 yards.

Trousers.—Pocketing,⅜ yards; silesia, ¼ yard; linen, ⅛ yard; canvas, ⅛ yard; striped silesia, ⅛ yard. Also, buttons, 7 large and 5 small, for F. F., or 13 large for W. F., silk, twist, binding, buckle.

In hip pocket, allow 7 or 8 inches extra pocketing.