Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/244



The first subject dealt with is

GRADING. Diagrams 325 and 326. One of the best methods of getting a complete set of patterns to contain the same features of style is that known as Grading.

This is illustrated on Diagram 325.

Draw line G, F level with the bottom of scye.

Mark in from G to 9, ¼ breast.

Draw lines from 9 to A, B and C.

Increase from 9 to G, half for every inch increase, and vice versa.

Vary ½ at A, rather less at 13 and ⅜ at C.

Now mark back from the front F to 9 ¼ breast.

Draw lines D, E, F.

Vary ⅜ at D, ½ at E, and ½ at F.

Adjust width of shoulder to match back.

To grade the sleeve, draw a line from A to 13, A to C and A to D.

Vary from A to B, ½ inch, and the same at C, making it 1 inch at D.

Beyond 36, the length is practically stationary.